Medicating Wrasses in Quarantine Tank

Buzz1329

New member
I have read on other threads that wrasses generally do not do well with preventative dosing of Prazipro and chloroquine phosphate in a quarantine tank. Not sure if it's the combination or either that's the problem. Others report success with Prazipro, which I understand treats flukes, tapeworm, flatworm, and internal parasites -- but not ich, marine velvet or brook, which can be treated with chloroquine phosphate.

So how do you successfully quarantine wrasses? Do they respond well to copper/cupramine in lieu of chloroquine phosphate or this just trading one problem for another?

Thanks,
 
I've never had a problem with copper or CP with any wrasse and I've used one or the other on dozens of wrasse of most wrasse families. PraziPro is a wormer. If you aren't comfortable with copper or CP; use tank transfer for ich and just observation for other protozoan parasites. PP is a very gentle med and all fish should be treated with it in the QT, (IMO & IME). If you decide to use copper, get some help in the disease forum; there are several little tweaks that make copper easier and safer.
 
I find wrasses tolerate copper a lot better when the dose is ramped up slowly over the corse of a week or more.
 
I find wrasses tolerate copper a lot better when the dose is ramped up slowly over the corse of a week or more.

+1

IME flasher wrasses do not respond well to CP, even the minimum therapeutic levels of 10mg/l. They seem to be unaffected for 2-3 days, then rapidly decline and perish. Can't speak for other wrasse genera, but I don't plan to use CP on any wrasse going forward.

Prazipro is fine, as long as you use the recommended dosage on the bottle. Overdosing can cause problems.

I now plan to treat wrasses proactively with Prazipro only, followed by a lengthy 8 week observation period. If I see signs of velvet or crypto, I'll use Cupramine.
 
I now plan to treat wrasses proactively with Prazipro only, followed by a lengthy 8 week observation period. If I see signs of velvet or crypto, I'll use Cupramine.

Very similar to what I do. I usually allow the fish ~1 week to get comfortable in my QT and eating well before dosing Prazi-pro. Then I do two treatments of Prazi. Monitor for Ich, and only treat if needed.

So far I have used Cupramine on 5 Fairy Wrasses. I treated a pair of C. lubbocki in my 10 gal successfully. I later treated a juvi C. lineatus, juvi C. jordani, and terminal male C. earlie in a 55. I received all three at the same time from an online vendor, and the C. jordani and C. earlie had Ich. The C. earlie was covered in Ich vs. the few spots on the C. jordani. Unfortunately, the C. earlie did not respond well to the Cupramine (stopped eating) and died in QT :( The C. lineatus and C. jordani did just fine and are living happily in my 125.

And now I just bought a pair of P. bellae and both have Ich. I am leaning towards hypo on them this time...
 
Very similar to what I do. I usually allow the fish ~1 week to get comfortable in my QT and eating well before dosing Prazi-pro. Then I do two treatments of Prazi. Monitor for Ich, and only treat if needed.

So far I have used Cupramine on 5 Fairy Wrasses. I treated a pair of C. lubbocki in my 10 gal successfully. I later treated a juvi C. lineatus, juvi C. jordani, and terminal male C. earlie in a 55. I received all three at the same time from an online vendor, and the C. jordani and C. earlie had Ich. The C. earlie was covered in Ich vs. the few spots on the C. jordani. Unfortunately, the C. earlie did not respond well to the Cupramine (stopped eating) and died in QT :( The C. lineatus and C. jordani did just fine and are living happily in my 125.

And now I just bought a pair of P. bellae and both have Ich. I am leaning towards hypo on them this time...

Sorry for the Earlie, and ouch that is a big bite out of the pocket. I think I know where u got the Bellae from and you might be better off with Tank transfer than hypo in this time of year due to evaporation.

I treat all my wrasses in copper and prazi but I use a lower concentration for a longer period just to be safe. Most tolerate it well and will eat for me a day later in the medicated water, I just wish they were less interested in jumping out through the only smaller opening where I have my heater cord going in the tank...
 
Sorry for the Earlie, and ouch that is a big bite out of the pocket. I think I know where u got the Bellae from and you might be better off with Tank transfer than hypo in this time of year due to evaporation.

I treat all my wrasses in copper and prazi but I use a lower concentration for a longer period just to be safe. Most tolerate it well and will eat for me a day later in the medicated water, I just wish they were less interested in jumping out through the only smaller opening where I have my heater cord going in the tank...

Thanks. The C. earlie definitely hurt. And thanks for the advice on the Bell's pair (I got them from a LFS if that is what you are thinking). Tank transfer is definitely an option. I just need to get the male eating first before trying to catch it.

Where do you hold Cupramine at, 0.3ppm? And agreed on them trying to find the smallest openings. I took an hour and made sure every tiny opening was covered in the QT the Bell's pair is in (it has a glass top). The female is so small she would likely fit right through 1/4 mesh!
 
Oh, I thought u bought from PIA, I was wondering too cuz Kevin usually have healthy stock IME.

I keep cupramine at 0.4ppm, I am nervous that if I have it too low it will only mask the ICH and not kill it (like most LFS have in their system). BTW love your wrasse collection! especially the attenuatus in your avatar.
 
Oh, I thought u bought from PIA, I was wondering too cuz Kevin usually have healthy stock IME.

I keep cupramine at 0.4ppm, I am nervous that if I have it too low it will only mask the ICH and not kill it (like most LFS have in their system). BTW love your wrasse collection! especially the attenuatus in your avatar.

Kevin's are still available today ;) I was shocked to see my LFS got them in, and jumped on the chance to pick them up! They even had two juvenile/female P. attenuatus in stock, but the Bell's pair blew my budget for at least a couple months so I had to hold back :rollface: Thank you though; I only have a couple left on my list, and the tank is almost full anyways (which is probably a good thing for my wallet!).

And understood on running it at 0.4. I see many hold 0.2-0.3, which to me just masks Ich as you said, though I guess some have had success with this.
 
I'm starting to wonder about prazi and its effectiveness on internal parasites. I see many people post prazi to get rid of tapeworms however I have used it specifically for the purpose many times to no avail, where switching to metro worked. Metro is much much better imo and I've seen prazi mess some fish up, where metro I have yet to have any ill experience with. I have replaced prazi in my qt regimen with metro now. I think prazi is responsible for more deaths than people think, especially in wrasses.
 
how did you come to the conclusion that your fish has internal parasites and how did you determine if the drug is effective on it or not? Just want to learn what signs and symptoms to look for in a fish with internal parasites.
 
Thanks for all the extremely helpful information. Appears I was mistaken about not using Prazipro with wrasses, which is a relief, and that thereโ€™s a split about safety of using CP with wrasses. Given that some well-respected aquarists have had issues with same, Iโ€™d be inclined to observe fish for additional 28 days and, if signs of ich present, use tank transfer method. If marine velvet or brook appear, Iโ€™ll break out the Cupramine and go down that road.
 
how did you come to the conclusion that your fish has internal parasites and how did you determine if the drug is effective on it or not? Just want to learn what signs and symptoms to look for in a fish with internal parasites.

Stringy white poo is tell tale. Also if eating well and still skinny that can be another sign. I had a linespot flasher that showed both those symptoms and I hit with prazi 3 times in 2 weeks. a week later still showing the white poo. One dose of metro and it was gone. I did a second dose to be safe. He was gaining weight well and eating great after that. a few weeks later after being added to my display... He jumped. Despite my full canopy, he still made it out somehow. :uzi:
 
Semi-on topic, I have a Powder Brown Tang that came to me with tapeworm(s). Ate great, but very skinny except for a huge stomach. Two doses of Prazi-pro did nothing. I then moved it to a 55 HT and treated API General Cure (which is prazi & metro). Within 3 days of dosing, the tapeworm(s) were dead and gone. General Cure does have a higher dosage of prazi than Prazi-pro, so not sure if it was just the metro or the higher dosage of prazi (or both).
 
I take masking tape and cover up any gaps on my QT's tank top; not taking any chances. :)

No kidding! I have a BTS 1/4 inch screen on my QT, yet my Naoki (sp?) wrasse still managed to surf. Seriously bummed because it was only a week away from going into the DT. No idea how it managed to squeeze through, unless it was while I was feeding the tank and just didn't notice.
 
My experiences with Prazi Pro.
I've had 4 wrasses for 6months to 1yr.
Melenaurous
Yellow choris
Male fairy wrasses (ruby head)
Female fairly wrasse ^

I tank transferred all my fish from upgrading my 90 to 250. After the 1st tank transfer I added Prazi Pro per directions. Wrasses did not like it, but seemed ok. For the 3rd transfer I added prazi pro again. Both fairys went into shock once I added it. The other two where not happy. Fairys died in 3 min. Melenaurous and choris lived and are happy now.

2nd attempt leopard wrasse. Prazi w 1st tank, seemed ok just loss of appetite. 2 tank w Prazi, once he hit the water he started freacking out. In a min he was lifeless and slowly sunk down belly up. Panic to save him I tossed in DT. He lived and is happy.

I think that is the last time i use Prazi pro on wrasses. I match temp and salinity when I TT.
 
I always start wrasses off with TTM, just like I do with any other fish. It's a dramatically faster and lower risk way to absolutely rule out ich than 4 weeks + of copper or CP.

After TTM, they I give them 2 courses of prazi (3 if they're from LFS) in observational QT. If any fish seems to be having trouble with any med, I do a 75% WC and run copper.

If you're really gun-shy about prazi, you could always use an FWD to check for flukes, and medicate with some other anthelmintic if you feel the need to rule out internal parasites. I've never used anything else, so I can't speak to efficacy or safety, but I think I'm going to try fenbendazole (in food) for the next fish I put through QT, which will most likely be a fairy wrasse.
 

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