MH's cost question
- Thread starter Nu2SW
- Start date
kdblove_99
New member
Doesn't seem like it would go up too much. of course double what your PC's cost since its double the wattage i would think.
I run 2x250 W DE metal halides, but have no clue what it costs me each month
BUt, my electric isn't that high.
I run 2x250 W DE metal halides, but have no clue what it costs me each month
BUt, my electric isn't that high.Sorry I'm not in your club, but a watt is a watt. double the 260w pc for the 2 250w halides more or less. Remember you will get more heat from the halides so you have to cool in the tank and the room a bit more somehow.
One 250 w halide will normally cover a 2x2 foot area, so a 4 foot tank would need 2.
Again sorry for jumping into your club, but I thought it might help.
One 250 w halide will normally cover a 2x2 foot area, so a 4 foot tank would need 2.
Again sorry for jumping into your club, but I thought it might help.
Nu2SW
New member
JJmg, No worries man, Everyone is welcome...
Thank you for answering the coverage question....
The only thing Is I dont have a hood so Id have to hang the lights from the top, and I wouldnt know where to put the ballast.
hmmm....
I need a tank stand and canopy built, but that means tearing down the tank...
UGH.....
Thank you for answering the coverage question....
The only thing Is I dont have a hood so Id have to hang the lights from the top, and I wouldnt know where to put the ballast.
hmmm....
I need a tank stand and canopy built, but that means tearing down the tank...
UGH.....
yoboyjdizz
Active member
Aslong as you can find a spot for the ballast where water will not splash on it you will be fine.. I know sunlight supply has these new reflectors out suppose to be really good. Their comapred to the lumenarc reflectors but made to look nice hanging from your ceiling or e.t.c.
yoboyjdizz
Active member
Double post....
FYI
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/tank_elec_calc.php
Just plug in your cost of KWH
and put 250 W for extra lights and how long your gonna turn it on for
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/tank_elec_calc.php
Just plug in your cost of KWH
and put 250 W for extra lights and how long your gonna turn it on for
dots
Premium Member
I suggest no hood, I personaly hate the things. They cut down on access and trap in the heat. The only real advantage is that it is neat and clean looking....not a big one to me.
Yes one, MH for every two feet of tank. However if you plan on staying with limited SPS with mainly LPS, my buddy has one 400w MH in the center of his 4' tank is a simple setup. Being 400w it is bright enough to have decent lighting in the center up top, even on a deep tank for SPS, and dimmer on the sides perfect for LPS. Being a 400w light you can go to a 20K bulb and not kill your PAR. In addition you will not have to use PC's for actinic because it is a 20K bulb. supplementation.....therefor could be cheaper in the long run by only using the one bulb
I would go with the 2-250's, I had 150's and they didn't cut the mustard. With the 250's you can grow what ever you want without restrictions.
There are a number of options for setting up the MH's.....a retro kit under a hood, piece one together from parts you buy, pendants hung from the ceiling or a bracket that you made that mounts on the top of the tank, or an all enclosed type that sits on the tank top of the tank. I have the Coralife Aqualight Pro set up and love it. It has 2-250MH,2-96wPC actinics, and 4 LED moonlights.
As far cost? I try not to think about it.....the actual cost diference between running the two lights is a drop in the bucket compared to the money that is spend overall in the system.....think of the extra money you spend montly in the lights would be less money you spend when replacing livestock that slowly dies from lack of lighting.....
For a cheap set up, I had never seen the JEBO lights and was impressed with the MHs the Coral Reef Shop had over thier tanks, but there are better and more expensive ones....buy the best the first time you can afford and don't upgrade three times like I did!!!
But I guess the real question is what kind of a tank do you want?
Yes one, MH for every two feet of tank. However if you plan on staying with limited SPS with mainly LPS, my buddy has one 400w MH in the center of his 4' tank is a simple setup. Being 400w it is bright enough to have decent lighting in the center up top, even on a deep tank for SPS, and dimmer on the sides perfect for LPS. Being a 400w light you can go to a 20K bulb and not kill your PAR. In addition you will not have to use PC's for actinic because it is a 20K bulb. supplementation.....therefor could be cheaper in the long run by only using the one bulb
I would go with the 2-250's, I had 150's and they didn't cut the mustard. With the 250's you can grow what ever you want without restrictions.
There are a number of options for setting up the MH's.....a retro kit under a hood, piece one together from parts you buy, pendants hung from the ceiling or a bracket that you made that mounts on the top of the tank, or an all enclosed type that sits on the tank top of the tank. I have the Coralife Aqualight Pro set up and love it. It has 2-250MH,2-96wPC actinics, and 4 LED moonlights.
As far cost? I try not to think about it.....the actual cost diference between running the two lights is a drop in the bucket compared to the money that is spend overall in the system.....think of the extra money you spend montly in the lights would be less money you spend when replacing livestock that slowly dies from lack of lighting.....
For a cheap set up, I had never seen the JEBO lights and was impressed with the MHs the Coral Reef Shop had over thier tanks, but there are better and more expensive ones....buy the best the first time you can afford and don't upgrade three times like I did!!!
But I guess the real question is what kind of a tank do you want?
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Not true.
Just go to Sanjay's web site and plug in the bulb and ballast you plan to use. There can be as much as a full amp or better of difference power consumption between 2 different bulb/ballast combinations. PC lighting is also known to be very inefficient for providing light compared to other aquarium lighting options.
EDIT : http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/selectperformancedata.php
Just rememver that an average 250W MH requires around 300 W to drive it. I am unsure how much 260W of PC lighting requires, but it is less efficient, so I would expect more.
dots
Premium Member
I don't know about consumption of PC vs MH, and MH can be tuned for the least consumption, but I bet with a smaller ballast and a lower consumption bulb, the lighting PAR would be less....and like I said try not to think about it, because I believe MHs are standard required equipment, kinda like wanting to put Tap Water with no salt in the tank because the cost of salt is too expensive. Sparss is correct about the ineffientcy of MH vs PCs, but I think that is generally when to refering performance, mainly because MHs are a point souce that is directed vs say a PC which is radiated all around over a longer distance...ie24"/36"/48" vs the 4"long MH bulb. That is why the MH is a better light for penetration because it is focused and because of dissipation, gets to the coral in the greatest concentration that it can. There a TON of long exhausting threads on the pros and cons of PC/T5s and MHs on the lighting threads......I had assumed that Edwin already decided on the MH as the way to go.
Honestly though, this is the wrong hobby to try to save money on....
Honestly though, this is the wrong hobby to try to save money on....
Like it was said before, a watt is a watt. The only difference is in the fact that a 250w MH lamp is a 250w "lamp." the ballast, being magnetic, is going to consume close to 30w (per ballast) more to drive. With PC's you are often using an electronic ballast which is able to cut the total wattage to being only what the lamps need.
However, as far as an impact on your SMUD bill. You gotta factor in the how much wattage your pumps are taking, your heater, your filters and all those things. Often times you're really not going to notice that big a spike. Just my $0.02 though
However, as far as an impact on your SMUD bill. You gotta factor in the how much wattage your pumps are taking, your heater, your filters and all those things. Often times you're really not going to notice that big a spike. Just my $0.02 though
plankton
Premium Member
Going back to the original questions(s).
1) You will pay more in electricity when you switch from 260W of PC to 2x250W halides (500+W); assuming same photoperiod. If you run HQI ballasts you will use even more amps. You could use a Kill-o-watt to get actual power usage, if you really wanted to know.
2) Single halide over a 4' tank. Nah. Even keeping the halide high and with a great refector you are gunna have dark spots with corals getting shaded on one side. Much better to run 2 halides on a 4' tank. Bettee yet run 2 halides _AND_ the PCs just to make sure you don't have any dark spots!!!!
SCott
1) You will pay more in electricity when you switch from 260W of PC to 2x250W halides (500+W); assuming same photoperiod. If you run HQI ballasts you will use even more amps. You could use a Kill-o-watt to get actual power usage, if you really wanted to know.
2) Single halide over a 4' tank. Nah. Even keeping the halide high and with a great refector you are gunna have dark spots with corals getting shaded on one side. Much better to run 2 halides on a 4' tank. Bettee yet run 2 halides _AND_ the PCs just to make sure you don't have any dark spots!!!!
SCott
Unarce
Unshackled
I used to think as well that DE put out more light, watt for watt, than SE. The thin diameter of DE bulbs greatly reduces restrike, allowing more light through. The thing is, DE bulbs are notorious for having poor light spread, as most of it is concentrated to a smaller area, resulting in the higher reading.
They're pretty much the same, especially when you take into account the 15-20% of light you lose with a shielded DE bulb. Some are just switching back because they like the spread of SE bulbs better, but the new Lumenarc for DEs can offset that.
They're pretty much the same, especially when you take into account the 15-20% of light you lose with a shielded DE bulb. Some are just switching back because they like the spread of SE bulbs better, but the new Lumenarc for DEs can offset that.
