mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
Does triton sell direct or through a distributor?
Distributor. Unique Corals here in the U.S., Im not sure for Canada or Australia.
Does triton sell direct or through a distributor?
... and sodium feredetate (whatever that is..)
It's a form of Iron.
Does triton sell direct or through a distributor?
For some reason I thought it contained Zinc - my bad. Andrew, you can buy Zinc (And Manganese) supplements from Triton - they aren't cheap but they save you the trouble of making the solutions with precision.
The whole dosing plan:
Zinc Supplement 15 drops/day
Manganese Supplement 20 drops/day
3 drops Lugols/day
5 drops each Coral A and Vitality every day
8 drops ProBioS/day
The equivalent of 8 drops per day of NP Pro/day(I use a dosing pump with diluted NP Pro)
800ML Zeolites
600ML Carbon
600Ml Phosphate minus
Layered in a reactor with enough flow to lightly disturb the Phosphate minus, I change out the whole thing every 4 weeks.
It's a form of Iron.
The Canadian distributor for Triton is Reef Wholesale.
Thanks Flo! Things are pretty well on autopilot but I like to post at least once a week with picsnow that´s how i want my week to start!
thanks for the new pictures! looking great!
nice week to you too!
Cheers
Thanks Mike! The last one is a Pearlberry.Awesome pics matt!
What's the last one?
Thank you Flo! We have four very photogenic dogs so I take almost as many pics of them as I do the tanklove the tank and LOVE the picture of your dog!!
thanks for sharing Matt!
Thanks Perry, one important factor in keeping a great collection of corals is getting corals with good genes in the first place. I have become better at finding the corals that will retain their colors than I was early on where I selected a lot of corals with that "bleached glow". Then, as you have said, pushing the coral to put out is most amazing color takes great conditions. Some of that is chemistry and some of that is light. The glow was there strongest when I was hitting the corals with light for 7.5 hours all bulbs on, 8" above the water in this somewhat shallow reef tank. 10" above the water I lost a little glow and noticed a darkening of color that was not what I was looking for when I reduced photoperiod to 7 hours.Matt,
Your colors are popping, so many special corals that you don't see often, with crazy glow! That is the one thing I continue to notice about coloration, a sort of glow or sheen if you will. Captured well in your pics, that red coral with blue tones, now that is a gem, and that yellow with purple hues and burgundy polyps, what a stunner. If that is not enough, you just show all of them off in one pic which give total respect to your craft, which is colorful acros! Of course the doggie pic is just the icing on the cake Looking great man!
So many beautiful corals it is hard to focus on just one. It is easier to take it in as one grand masterpiece canvas.
I greatly enjoy following as your dosing regimen evolves. Hobbyists such as yourself are helping advance the science of reef keeping more then the "scientists" actually are. I believe this has become a hobbyists driven field.
I believe that Woody's eyes have a superpower. With one look he could command many treats. He would have assumed complete control of my household.
Fluorine is good stuff for spa shine.
I looked at a bunch of the AF super tanks plus a few other tanks with amazing color, and created a little math function based on Light height above the water, total tank height, and hours of photoperiod. I multiplied the inverse of the total height of light times photoperiod and came up with a surprisingly good correlation between many of the tanks. Here is the function:
=PRODUCT(1/(H2+H3), B4)*100
where H2 is distance between water line and light in inches
H3 is tank height in inches
B4 is Hours photoperiod with all lights on
For now Ill call it the SLC - SPS Lighting Coefficient:reading:
The equation is no where near perfect, and I tried using the measurement from water line to the tops of corals rather than tank height, but that required a lot of conjecture. It did lead to some interesting correlations, however. For example, BigE scored a 32 with his shallower tank and 8 hour photoperiod, which comes very close to Severs Aquaforest show tank value of 32.35 with lights 10" above the water, 11 hour photoperiod, and taller tank.
At 8" above the water, on a 16" tall tank, 8 hour photoperiod, my tank scores a 33.
I believe that the more intense the light, the harder you push the corals, so you can go very intense and shorter light periods. You can also under-light and gain some color but lose glow and growth or over-light and lose a lot of color or turn many corals green. Finding the sweet spot is key.
Interesting little equation - I could see some use of it. One glaring piece of missing information is the strength of the lights. I could get a 32 with a 2-bulb T5, and I could get a 32 with a 1000w halide. I wonder if these "AF super tanks" are pushing approximately the same amount of PAR as each other - both at 1" below surface and on the sand?
I'm trying to work it out, but I'm not sure what the "," means between the H3 and B4 as that is not a proper math symbol in this context. Without posting a worked example, I assume you mean this:
SLC = [1/(H2+H3)B4]100
Which for me works like this:
SLC = [1/(5+21)5]100
SLC = [(1/26)5]100
SLC = [(0.03846)5]100
SLC = (0.23076)100
SLC = 19.23
Uh oh, I'm way off! :spin1: Actually this is good because it reminded me I need to turn my lights up again.
If I change my photoperiod to 8.5 hours I get SLC = 32.69
Sorry, I copied the function out of the Excel table I created You are correct in that the two length measurements are added together as you have indicated:SLC = [1/(H2+H3)B4]100
I also should have stated that this is only for T5 driven tanks - other types of lighting introduce too much variability. The number of bulbs is not as important as you might imagine, more bulbs means more coverage, but do not contribute as much to PAR at a single point. As you move away from any bulb horizontally its individual contribution drops almost to the point of nothing within a foot or two. About 8 bulbs seems to be the break-even point - anything more than that is just for coverage. I've tested this with a par Meter on my own tanks.
Its very interesting what you came up with - that is a fairly low number due to your short photoperiod. If you do increase the photoperiod I would love to see what changes occur!