Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

little6gal said:
Thanks guys, awesome thread! I've got another "will this work?" for maglofster & lassef....

This multi chip x2 in a series:
http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-50W-Actinic-Royal-Blue-Hybrid-Led-Saving-Lamp-Aquarium-Bulb-A-/160753517662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256da8045e#ht_2611wt_1233


Using this driver model # LED100W-057-C1750-M-D 1750 mA 34~57 Vdc 91%

http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/LEDDatasheets/LED%20100W-M%20Series%2001-11-12.pdf
Click to expand...


To me it looks like a perfect match!
 
The last construction runs at 900 mA. It means that I have around 80 watts of "China" LED and 30 watts of Cree Royal Blue - total app. 110 watts. Its warmer than my other constructions (with heat pipes) but still rather good. I will do some measurments on Sunday but I think its about 40 - 45 C (104 F - 113 F)

Sincerely Lasse
 
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KafudaFish said:
Well this was an interesting thread. Thank you for putting it together.

I am not an equipment junkie but I really enjoyed it.

I did not get a chance to watch your video back a few pages yet but will.

I was looking through the ebay store and they had a premade fixture that would work for my nano tank and was wondering if someone could say a yes or no

http://www.ebay.com/itm/500mm-27W-2...835?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33724b9803

I know that this is a diy subject but I really like a simple solution.

Thanks again for the thread. It should be a thread of the month.
Click to expand...
'

Well why not. I don't think it's the cheapest you could get, but they have been selling it for a year now so I think the product is solid. But if it's for a nano, why not go for one of the "floodlights" they have for sale?
 
Thanks for the answer. I watched the video earlier and that was great.

It is a 22L 6.30 x 3.15 x 3.94 cm tank (yes I had to do the math to do liters and cm instead of gallons and inches).

I have a par 38 7 led spotlight on it which I like but I have zoas growing on both sides, floor and backwall and I was looking down the road for better coverage.

I have gone from a 6 polyp frag in Dec. 2010 to 889 polyps as of earlier this month. Yes I count each month.

I could add a second spot light but was wondering if this would be a way to go.

Again great thread and will keep watching. Thank you.
 
KafudaFish said:
Thanks for the answer. I watched the video earlier and that was great.

It is a 22L 6.30 x 3.15 x 3.94 cm tank (yes I had to do the math to do liters and cm instead of gallons and inches).

I have a par 38 7 led spotlight on it which I like but I have zoas growing on both sides, floor and backwall and I was looking down the road for better coverage.

I have gone from a 6 polyp frag in Dec. 2010 to 889 polyps as of earlier this month. Yes I count each month.

I could add a second spot light but was wondering if this would be a way to go.

Again great thread and will keep watching. Thank you.
Click to expand...

So is it a 7W light or a 21W light?

If it's only a 7W maybe this would be an alternative? http://www.ebay.com/itm/20W-Actinic...ultDomain_0&hash=item3f10dc2866#ht_6192wt_922
 
I'm going to use 6 of the 10 watt LED's for part of my build. I saw the links for the ebay ballest and was wondering if I could use one, 100 watt for the six 10 watt LED's. Or would two 50 watt ballest running 3 of the 10 watt LED be better.
 
No - you can not use neither the 100 watt driver or 50 watt driver. You must use a driver that gives up to 1 A of current. 100 watt supply 3 A and 50 gives 1.7 A. If you connect them in parallel so you always have the risk that if a chip fails to destroy the rest. The chips should be connected in series and then they can run on a driver off 3 x 10 watts that you can find in the store pdfrogman links to. Otherwise you can use any constant current driver that provides up to 1 A and the voltage suitable for the number of chips you connect. A driver that provides 1 A and the variation in the volt is as an example 9 - 30 V can take anywhere from 1 to 3 chip with forward voltage of 9-10 V each. Another driver who leaves 1 A and gives 30 - 36 V can only take three chip in series (FV 9-10 W per chip)

Sincerely Lasse
 
Correction to my last post (256)

I wrote "you-can not use ..." and "you must use ..." . What I would write instead is that I prefer not to use these drivers for this will require a parallel connection of the chip. I prefer instead to serially connect the chip and then work with up to 1A of current.

Sorry for the inconvenience

Sincerely Lasse
 
Any one have any advice on 48x24x18 tank i was think 3x50W hybrid chip , 12x3 uv bridluxe, 6xrb 3wled + 6xcw 3 w led , oll use 60-48P meanwell drivers for now . I can use 3 heatsinks 5x9 each cona have 2 fans , 1 50W , 4 UV , 2 RB and 2 CW vhot you think .
 
So, like many others I'm very intrested in these leds. I'm wondering if I'm not looking at the same leds or not? I followed the links posted and all of the ones I looked at say they are good for 30,000 hours. Aren't the cree leds good for 50,000 hours?

Also, I'm all for more power but.....without dimming these things down. Why are you all after such high par readings? How fast does those par reading decrease as you move away from the center "hot spot" of the led?

Im setting up a simple 40b and I don't need all that par. At first I was thinking of doing two 50 watt, 16 or 20k, with several 3 watt blues or a few 10 watt blues. I'm now wondering if my Lps softie tank build would be happy with the 20 watt emitters? Although i will have a clam or two.
 
Alright... Last piece of the puzzle....optics. I am going to hang a 10 inch wide fixture 24 inches from the aquarium that is 36 inches wide. I am getting multiple 10 watt and 50 watt LED. What would be more appropriate if I want max coverage.

What I'm considering, no optics on 10 watt leds and 90 deg on 50 watt leds. What's do u guys think?
 
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