Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Mehdi_ir00 said:
Hi

Could you please tell me which Meanwell driver I can use for LED panel 10,20 and 50 watt?
I am totally confused.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I need the spec for the chips to help you - please post links - there is a lot of different solutions of multichip out there

Sincerely Lasse
 
megadeth72 said:
without a lens leds will throw light all directions, much of which does not even reach the water
Click to expand...

Most of the multichips has a type of lens in the coating. Spread angel 120 -140 degree. I use 10 watts without extra lenses - 10 cm from the water surface. Works well.

Sincerely Lasse
 
 
Mehdi_ir00 said:
Hi
Here the links of LED and I would like to know what kind of blue color is better for Corals?One more question,can I connect several LED together whit one driver?Is it good or no?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-16000K-...688?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f13a7ccc8
Click to expand...
LPF-60D-36 gives 1,67 A - max for the chip 1,7 A. 1 chip - 1 driver

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPISTAR-20W...292?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3370374c44
Click to expand...
LPF-90D-48 gives 1.87 A - max for the chip 2 A. Must be 3 or 4 chip in a daisy chain to one driver - not less - not more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPISTAR-20W...540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f11354d64
Click to expand...
LPF-90D-48 gives 1.87 A - max for the chip 2 A. Must be 3 or 4 chip in a daisy chain to one driver - not less - not more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-40mil-1...329?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1a3ae279
Click to expand...

ELN-60-48 D or P type (D = dim 1-10 V; p = dim PWM) adjust internal pot to 1 A. Max for the chip 1 A Must be 3 or 4 chip in a daisy chain to one driver - not less - not more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-40mil-1...108?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1d92f1f4
Click to expand...
ELN-60-48 D or P type (D = dim 1-10 V; p = dim PWM) adjust internal pot to 1 A. Max for the chip 1 A Must be 3 or 4 chip in a daisy chain to one driver - not less - not more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16W-Greenhouse-Fast-Grow-Led-Panel-/220844846100?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b60ec14
Click to expand...

LPF-40D-20 gives 2 A and suit for 2 chip in a daisy chain - no less - no more Max for the chip 2 A


http://www.ebay.com/itm/20W-660nm-R...585?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1802fca9
Click to expand...

LPF-40D-20 gives 2 A and suit for 2 chip in a daisy chain - no less - no more Max for the chip 2 A

These are only suggestions - there are many variations how to solve the problem

Sincerely Lasse
 
007Bond said:
Tom, thanks for the driver heat input. My build is going to require Meanwell HLG-185H-36B's for power. You using Molex connectors for hookup between the drivers and your chip?---Rick
Click to expand...

They're actually from TE Connectivity, although I suspect molex makes an exact vesion of it too. It's the val-u-lok series that I have been using. I think they are rated to 5A per pin or maybe it was 9A.

I could only find my female 12 pin connector so instead of just firing off an order to digikey ($8 shipping) I used an 8 plus a 4 for the 12 conductor cable.

I should be making some progress on the fixture tonight. The plan is to make a mount of some sort (I will be bending a gooseneck from conduit PVC).
 
Hi Tom, Will the 18 gauge fit the connectors? I looked at the flexpipe site, and it looks like the skipped the 5" size for some reason? They go from 4 to 6...go figure.
 
nemo...I saw those and did not think they were that great because they do not have direct contact between the heat pipes and contact surface the led would be sitting on...something like the hyper 212 would probably be more efficient...not to mention the hyper 212 is 30 dollars, but probably would not be effective up to 220 watts more like 120
 
Hi Lassef
The drivers that I bought were not encased, just the raw exposed circuitry.
On one end of the driver it has a red wire soldered in place to the POSITIVE out and a black to the NEGATIVE out.
The other end of the driver has AC IN with 2 solder points.
One is under the AC marking, and the other is under the IN marking, without ( + ) or ( - ) markings.
How do I determine which is which so I can power the driver?
Thanks
Dave
 
DBLeite said:
The other end of the driver has AC IN with 2 solder points.
One is under the AC marking, and the other is under the IN marking, without ( + ) or ( - ) markings.
How do I determine which is which so I can power the driver?
Click to expand...

Unless there is a specific marking for Hot/Line and Neutral, it doesn't matter. AC is alternating current, so both sides "switch" polarity 50 or 60 times per second.
 
Oh O.K. landsailer.
I am in the psyche field, not so sure about electronics.
I just dont want to fry my new drivers.
Thanks
Dave
 
maglofster said:
I love LED builds. I have done a lot of them during a couple of years. Recently (the last 8 months or so) I started using LED multichips instead of the smaller 3W LED's. The reason for this was inspiration from Maxspect using them and also an online friend (Lasse, one of the best reefers in Sweden) bought a couple of multichips and was very successful with his builds.

So I did a conversion of my Giesemann pendant, taking away the MH's and putting a heatsink and some multichips into it. This build has given me 8 months of very nice light and consistent SPS growth.
But recently I started thinking of converting the lighting on my 160 galloncube. I wanted this build to have the smallest footprint possible and as much wattage / buck. So this is what I'm going to build.

2x200W (driven att 180W each) multichips with a combination of 20K and 453nm blue leds.
2x50W 10K multichips. These are going to run a couple of hours midday just to ensure the right spectrum for growth.

So four chips totaling about 460W but only during peak hours. Most of the day only 360W though. This is replacing MH's and T5's totaling about 700W.

To cool the chips I'm using GPU coolers for computers. Very cheap, very efficient. The ones I'm using are rated for 250W GPU's.


Hi, I have couples of questions to see if you can help me, I saw you have knowledge about LED lights. I would like to change my 12g lights, I want to upgrade to LED, but I'm confused how to do it. For example how many LED you recommend me to use and what type of color. Also I would like to have the same color that you have on the pictures from your first post in this forum. I really appreciate if you can help me. Thanks a lot.

nano1_zps94d70ef0.jpg


20121015_212152_zps78aff246.jpg


20121015_212246_zpsa0da6a51.jpg
Click to expand...
 
tomservo said:
Reposting the pics from my previous post, I have no idea why they don't come up...



I will measure my 8900 for you: (edit: actually measured it) I'd say 4.7" is pretty much bang-on, although it's better if your fitting has some space around the outside (mine is perhaps 4.8") as air does get pulled through and pushed to the outside of the fins there.

Why not try a place called flexpvc and get a foot of 5" PVC? It's 5" ID / 5.5" OD? That will be what I do in the future for these, it's much less trouble than machining out fittings. It's too bad he doesn't carry ABS fittings but it doesn't really matter as I'll be painting these anyways. You can cut a small section as well to use as bits to glue inside the tube for mounting points. FWIW I just use regular PVC glue for these sort of things.

Drivers will generally get warm/hot unless you put a fan blowing on them. It's normal, and they are designed with this in mind - they're made to be put in the same sorts of places as fluoro ballasts. The ELN driver's I chose for these builds are not my preference, but the savings over LPF series was substantial. That said, given the voltage, they will only be running at 40-45w output max anyways, since 36*1.3=46.




Nice looking tank! My own tank is a 12 cube (although I built it myself) - 15x15x13, with no filter taking up space. There's an algae scrubber integrated into the back of the tank. I may not be the best person to ask which light, as I'm about to put a 250w dream chip over my 12..... dimmed back a little, of course.

All joking aside, that hood doesn't leave a lot of headspace for a light, can you take a picture of the underside so I can see what you're working with? If it has a fan in there already it should be much easier. I'm thinking what you'd probably want is a couple of 30000k whites or blue/white hybrids and a 420 actinic between them, probably two 10w whites and a 20w actinic (since that is how the actinic comes, drive it like 10w). I'm not sure if any of the 10w hybrids are available that would be white enough for you, maybe the 10000k/450 would work, I hear it's around 16000k-ish.


Sigh, one more edit: Someone asked about the connectors I use. I get them from digikey part numbers A30583-ND A30595-ND for the plugs themselves, there are pins you have to buy as well. These are inexpensive connectors, but good quality, they are the same as what is used on computer motherboards for power connections. Please note that the pins are supposed to be crimped on with a special (very expensive) tool. I get around this by soldering my wires on, which is a PITA.
Click to expand...

Here are the picture of the top. Thankss.

20121015_212246_zpsa0da6a51.jpg


20121015_212152_zps78aff246.jpg


20121015_214353_zps7587cc14.jpg
 
cubanazo83 said:
I would like to change my 12g lights, I want to upgrade to LED, but I'm confused how to do it. For example how many LED you recommend me to use and what type of color. Also I would like to have the same color that you have on the pictures from your first post in this forum. I really appreciate if you can help me. Thanks a lot.
Click to expand...

If you are willing to lose the plastic lid, I would just use a 20-24w PAR38 bulb. If you want to keep the lid, a 20w multichip with a low profile VGA cooler and no lens may work.
 
Sorry for jumping in here, i would like a little advise as to which driver to use with 10 of these 10w violet led chips
Ebay link removed~dc

thanks guys for your help
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice build Landy! Do you keep fish in your engine compartment, lol. (i know, that's where the 12V's are)

These chips certainly get hot on the light emitting side, and certainly produce more IR than I thought LEDs are supposed to.

cheers,
-joe
 
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