megadeth72
New member
I would never use leds without a reflector even if it's 1cm over the water
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
For those thinking about CPU coolers for heatsink, I would suggest taking a look at Coolermastrer Hyper 212. Excellent cooler, works great even when you are overclocking a PC. So cooling a LED would not be an issue. Comes with a 120 mm fan, you can add a second 120 mm fan for push / pull. It is not as bulky as a lot of older generation coolers that I see in pics here used for cooling LED. I have used it on multiple PCs, never had issues with overheating. And it's cheap for a great cooler. Sythe makes excellent low noise fans.
Lassef
Member
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Thanks for posting the results. That's about what I would expect from a narrow lens and 60w chip. Most people would require a 120 or 90˚ lens for adequate coverage, so running at 60w would give you less than 100 PAR on the substrate if your tank was 24" deep and the light was suspended 12" above the surface.
In my opinion, a 100w chip run at 120w with 90˚ lens is best suited for most reef tanks (24"w x 24"H).
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I agree 100%. The 120˚ lenses do not cause the annoying glare due to their short profile, but the taller 90 & 60˚ lenses are an issue for sure. I use a housing that obscures most of the lens. It blocks the side glare but doesn't seem to affect the light hitting the tank.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I think he means "optical lens" when he says "reflector".
In my opinion lens selection is a simple matter tank depth and footprint. You could go without a lens if the tank is only 20" deep or less and the light can be suspended close to the surface of the water of a tank that is only 20" wide.
Most tanks are 24-30" high and 24-30" wide. In order to light the tank with fewer fixtures and even coverage, I would go with a 90 or 120˚ lens, providing the chip is run at 100w.
One can try to use a 60w chip with 60˚ lenses, but the coverage will be uneven with a hot spot in the centre and diminished intensity outside of an 18" footprint.
Of course lens angle is moot when you consider varying distances from the water and even the distance between the chip and the lens. Some DIY multichips omit some of the reflectors and spacers, leaving the lens closer to the chip than intended in the design. Blue Moon Aquatics has a variable distance lens to focus the light, but it seems more complicated than simply swapping out $10 lenses. http://www.bluemoonaquatics.com/BMA_P100.php
Hi Lassef
I was hoping that you/someone could help me. I just received 3 x100watt hybrid multichips from China. I cant make out by the ( + ) and ( - ) markings on the white plastic part of the chip which blade or leg is which....... I would appreciate any help please.
Thanks
Dave
I was hoping that you/someone could help me. I just received 3 x100watt hybrid multichips from China. I cant make out by the ( + ) and ( - ) markings on the white plastic part of the chip which blade or leg is which....... I would appreciate any help please.
Thanks
Dave
Lassef
Member
It does not work when I try to uppload a picture - I´ll try this way instead.
Look at the picture below
Just to the right of the minus sign you can see that the metal frame is doing a soft bend and is conecting to the lower "tung" The lower tung is minus. To the left of the plus sign you can se an other metalframe going to a soft bend in the right upper corner and connect to the upper "tung". upper tung is plus.
Sincerely Lasse
Look at the picture below
Just to the right of the minus sign you can see that the metal frame is doing a soft bend and is conecting to the lower "tung" The lower tung is minus. To the left of the plus sign you can se an other metalframe going to a soft bend in the right upper corner and connect to the upper "tung". upper tung is plus.
Sincerely Lasse
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Status update I guess. Spent a bunch of time today working on the drivers and wiring.. Result so far as pictured. The picture with the lid on the box shows a spare 18w driver for the algae scrubber light, just to show that something does go there. The little black box is a fan speed control.
All that's left I guess is to wire a plug onto the 12 conductor wire and then solder it all into the light. This first go I will be wiring it for 5 channels + fan, the temperature sensor's not a priority right now, though I will connect it for readings just not through the main cable for now. I want to be able to dim all 5 channels to see what I like.
The plugs are oriented down the way I plan to mount the plate with the drivers on it. They are not waterproof but I will be putting silicone grease in the connections as usual, and I may put some of the electronics silicone sealant around the plug housings.
All that's left I guess is to wire a plug onto the 12 conductor wire and then solder it all into the light. This first go I will be wiring it for 5 channels + fan, the temperature sensor's not a priority right now, though I will connect it for readings just not through the main cable for now. I want to be able to dim all 5 channels to see what I like.
The plugs are oriented down the way I plan to mount the plate with the drivers on it. They are not waterproof but I will be putting silicone grease in the connections as usual, and I may put some of the electronics silicone sealant around the plug housings.
cubanazo83
In Memoriam
Hi, how are you I have been reading all your post and I can notice that you have a lot of knowledge about DIY LED. I am new in this hobby I have been doing it for almost a year now. I have a Nano cube 12 gallons; I would like to do an upgrade in the lights. I would like to put LED lights inside the same top that the tank has. Can you please give me some advices? It would be greatly appreciate. Thanks very much for everything.
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cubanazo83
In Memoriam
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Hi Tom, I couldn't get your pics. to come up. I'm watching your posts, as I am planning a similar build. Couple questions as usual. Did your Meanwells get Hot at all, when you were maxing them on the Dream Chip? also would you give a link to the 12 pin connector your using. I found this 5" to 4" reducing coupling. http://www.tools-plus.com/delta-50-479.html?utm_medium=shopeng&utm_source=shopzillabizrate&utm_term=DEA50-479 The seller sent me this info... Not a scientific measurement, but here it goes:
On the 5" side: ID is 4.7", height is 2.25"
Thickness of the wall (not at the knuckle or where they join) .14"
She said the coupling ID.is 4.7"... I see the 8900 and the coupling say the same, I hope their is some wiggle room in the coupling(would a tight fit be a problem). The cooler is also 1/4" taller but I don't see a issue with this. the side walls are thinner than a pvc coupling. Do you see any other issues with using this coupling?
Thanks---Rick
On the 5" side: ID is 4.7", height is 2.25"
Thickness of the wall (not at the knuckle or where they join) .14"
She said the coupling ID.is 4.7"... I see the 8900 and the coupling say the same, I hope their is some wiggle room in the coupling(would a tight fit be a problem). The cooler is also 1/4" taller but I don't see a issue with this. the side walls are thinner than a pvc coupling. Do you see any other issues with using this coupling?
Thanks---Rick
jimmy_beaner
New member
Would it be possible to get a close up of how people are soldering the driver to the multichip?
jimmy_beaner
New member
Perhaps I should generalize my question... can I see a close up of how people are connecting their multichip to the circuit?
Lassef
Member
Do you have a link to the driver? I do not think it works to make them dimable in a easy way. Someone else maybe has some ideas.
Sincerely Lasse
Reposting the pics from my previous post, I have no idea why they don't come up...
I will measure my 8900 for you: (edit: actually measured it) I'd say 4.7" is pretty much bang-on, although it's better if your fitting has some space around the outside (mine is perhaps 4.8") as air does get pulled through and pushed to the outside of the fins there.
Why not try a place called flexpvc and get a foot of 5" PVC? It's 5" ID / 5.5" OD? That will be what I do in the future for these, it's much less trouble than machining out fittings. It's too bad he doesn't carry ABS fittings but it doesn't really matter as I'll be painting these anyways. You can cut a small section as well to use as bits to glue inside the tube for mounting points. FWIW I just use regular PVC glue for these sort of things.
Drivers will generally get warm/hot unless you put a fan blowing on them. It's normal, and they are designed with this in mind - they're made to be put in the same sorts of places as fluoro ballasts. The ELN driver's I chose for these builds are not my preference, but the savings over LPF series was substantial. That said, given the voltage, they will only be running at 40-45w output max anyways, since 36*1.3=46.
I will measure my 8900 for you: (edit: actually measured it) I'd say 4.7" is pretty much bang-on, although it's better if your fitting has some space around the outside (mine is perhaps 4.8") as air does get pulled through and pushed to the outside of the fins there.
Why not try a place called flexpvc and get a foot of 5" PVC? It's 5" ID / 5.5" OD? That will be what I do in the future for these, it's much less trouble than machining out fittings. It's too bad he doesn't carry ABS fittings but it doesn't really matter as I'll be painting these anyways. You can cut a small section as well to use as bits to glue inside the tube for mounting points. FWIW I just use regular PVC glue for these sort of things.
Drivers will generally get warm/hot unless you put a fan blowing on them. It's normal, and they are designed with this in mind - they're made to be put in the same sorts of places as fluoro ballasts. The ELN driver's I chose for these builds are not my preference, but the savings over LPF series was substantial. That said, given the voltage, they will only be running at 40-45w output max anyways, since 36*1.3=46.
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leedoherty
New member
Could somebody please recommend me a driver for the 60w epistar multichip please
