Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[007Bond]

007Bond, how deep is your tank? I just ordered three 50W 10K and blue mix panels for my 19" high and 48" long tank. I'm not sure whether or not to order lenses either.. I'm thinking about waiting to get the lights to see how they look first. Getting excited about my build!

Lvb, Hi
My tank is deep, 42" top of sand to top of water X 96L. I had planned on Cree 3W leds, with a total of 256 of them for coverage I wanted. I was going to use 60 degree optics for the penetration I needed. The 3W chips were going to be a combo of RB CW NW in a 2 to 1 ratio blue to white. My hood top is only 10" above the water. Now I need to know how do you balance the multi-chips in a parallel circuit, as you would in a 3W chip build? So you can cut back on the number of drivers that would be required. Thanks---Rick :crazy1:

 

[tahiriqbal]

The product development in the last three years is just stunning to think about. A lot has happened. I think it will be worth another try. It always hurts to be an ultra early adopter.

The new hybrids with 100 x 2,5w leds in them are very nice.

I have to agree with you but I am a performance freak lol. Have done few prototypes with 40 Cree XPGs and XPE LEDs PCB with touch screen controller etc, here is pcitures of one of my other project.

Tahir

 

[bowfront90]

tahiriqbal that is IMPRESSIVE.

Back to BASIC questions. What gauge wire should I use to connect 50W LEDs vs 10W LEDS. Should I solder to LED or use those electric connectors (Disconnect Pairs) that I have seen on the forum?

I purchased "Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive". is this stuff really STRONG enough to hold BOTH my LED and optic to the heat sink?

 

[bowfront90]

tahiriqbal that is IMPRESSIVE.

Back to BASIC questions. What gauge wire should I use to connect 50W LEDs vs 10W LEDS. Should I solder to LED or use those electric connectors (Disconnect Pairs) that I have seen on the forum?

I purchased "Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive". is this stuff really STRONG enough to hold BOTH my LED and optic to the heat sink?

 

[SUMMERS]

Heatsink/pendants all done. Just need to get up on the ladder and hang them.

Power from wall wart goes into first fan box then pigtails to the next one. I can daisy chain up to 20 additional fans off of the first. I see no problem with running two 50w and a 92mm fan on one heatsink. Heat sinks will be 10-12" off the water surface.

I don't think I care for the optics. They direct light too much for my liking. I received two 45mm 90 degree lens although I ordered something else. AC-RC is correcting this. But I truly think the light-spread without optic is good for me. Two 50w lights over a 40 breeder.

I'm going to order another 10k light and do away with the blue light. I'll try the combo when it arrives but I'm happy with the 10k thus far. I think the growth will be great under it.

Siri Sent This Using Tapatalk

 

[lucky_snapper]

Well, the "100W" chips I'm using can actually be driven to 252W. So if I want to up the current in the future I can just add a more powerful driver and I don't have to think about the cooling.

We are not quite sure on how to compare the heat output from a CPU with that of a multichip LED. But, I like to overdo it, better to be safe than sorry and so far the LED's are being kept really cool.

I dont understand this statement because when i look at the max current and FV of the 100 watt LED stars it says 3A and 36V so how are you able to double that without burning them up ? I am trying to plan a build for an 8 foot tank and the owner is on a very tight budget.

Thanks,
Travis

 

[maglofster]

I dont understand this statement because when i look at the max current and FV of the 100 watt LED stars it says 3A and 36V so how are you able to double that without burning them up ? I am trying to plan a build for an 8 foot tank and the owner is on a very tight budget.

Thanks,
Travis

Check this one out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPISTAR-100...ultDomain_0&hash=item3370376aae#ht_1551wt_922

fV 36V and max current 7A.

 

[maglofster]

tahiriqbal that is IMPRESSIVE.

Back to BASIC questions. What gauge wire should I use to connect 50W LEDs vs 10W LEDS. Should I solder to LED or use those electric connectors (Disconnect Pairs) that I have seen on the forum?

I purchased "Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive". is this stuff really STRONG enough to hold BOTH my LED and optic to the heat sink?

Gague, Is that thickness? I have used regular 220V indoor electrical cable beause it's cheap.

Solder or quick connectors is your choice. I prefer soldering.

Yes, the thermal adhesive when bonded is really strong.

 

[Lassef]

I dont understand this statement because when i look at the max current and FV of the 100 watt LED stars it says 3A and 36V so how are you able to double that without burning them up ? I am trying to plan a build for an 8 foot tank and the owner is on a very tight budget.

Thanks,
Travis

FV says 31,5 - 36 V, current 3 - 7 A. 3 A -> FV 31,5 ,7 A -> FV 36 V

Sincerely Lasse

By the way -
I have tested my 100 W built at 4,5 m deep tank - I´m more than satisfied - pictures will come

 

[007Bond]

I'm going to order another 10k light and do away with the blue light. I'll try the combo when it arrives but I'm happy with the 10k thus far. I think the growth will be great under it.

Hi SUMMERS,
Your fixture build looks good. What chips do you have hooked up now? Two 50W one 10k and one combo chip? Are you saying your going to replace the combo chip with another 10k white? On your optics, you think you are going to do away with them? What are the connectors that you are using between your drivers and the fixture? Looking forward to more pics of your build.---Rick

 

[SUMMERS]

I am only running one 50w white light at the moment. I had the single blue light over the tank until the 10k light came in Friday. I have not received my combo light from ACRC yet to test coloration. I'm going to order a second 10k light today as I don't think the combo light will sway me much. If it does worst case I'll have two sets of lights I can run.

The blue light really makes the corals glow but I don't think the corals will grow very well. So im going to part with it.

I am connecting the drivers to the led with the crimp on style connector. Makes for easy removal from the led if needed. I had originally soldered the driver to the blue light.

Thanks. I'm almost done with everything. It's just a waiting game for everything to arrive. Until then I'll just have one light going but it's enough for the current setup. I just moved a 20 gallon into a 40 and haven't started moving the other tank yet.

Yes. Right now I don't think I will be using optics. It could just be because of the size optics I have that it seems to spotlight too much but im getting pretty good coverage without optics.

As a side note. I have ordered from both ac-rc and hk-led and hk items arrive at least 5 days before ac. Both the leds I have so far came from hk. The combo was ordered from ac and I'm still waiting. I've experienced the same with other components ordered from both vendors.


Siri Sent This Using Tapatalk

 

[Lassef]

The blue light really makes the corals glow but I don't think the corals will grow very well. So im going to part with it.


Siri Sent This Using Tapatalk

My opinion is the exact opposite when using RB (445-455 nm). They are perfect to get corals to grow, especially the corals naturally living under 4 meters (13 ft) the regular blue (around 470 nm), however, is fairly useless on the issue of growth. It is my personal opinion and is based on chlorophyll a and b's absorption peaks in the blue wavelength range (430 and 450 nm).

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SUMMERS]

I knew blue light penetrated water more but I didn't think growth would be better under a blue light in any wavelength than say a 6k or similar bulb. No matter, these LEDS are way to blue. :smurf:

I have been visiting the board from my phone and didn't realize the pics were as big as they are. My apologies.

 

[Landsailor]

Well, I ordered some 10W chips, a heatsink, and the cheap driver from them yesterday for experimentation.

Tahir,
Man, that's nice looking! Kudos on a nice design. Any more progress on it?

 

[A Reef Scene]

What size chip combo would you think would replace a 400w halid? The tank is around 30 inches deep, and i'm looking for a color around 12 to 15 k.

 

[maglofster]

I knew blue light penetrated water more but I didn't think growth would be better under a blue light in any wavelength than say a 6k or similar bulb. No matter, these LEDS are way to blue. :smurf:

I have been visiting the board from my phone and didn't realize the pics were as big as they are. My apologies.

But if you mix the blues with the whites? How does that look?

 

[Lassef]

Hi

This morning I did an experiment in a tank 4.5 m deep (14.7 ft) with my 100 W fixture. It was before the main lights were turned on. The only illumination was a 400 watt MH with blue light.

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The test was done in a corner of the tank that in the morning usually look like this.

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I was very happy with the results.

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[maglofster]

Lasse, did you drive it @ 100W?

 

[Lassef]

Yep,

The comparison is not quite good though - the blue MH: n gives a little better light than the photo shows and over the larger area, but the result is good enough to move on. The next step will be a multipurpose chip with Royal Blue and white. Powered by approximately 5 A.

I think you should be careful in your shallow tank - there is power in the chip.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[A Reef Scene]

It looks like a 100w and 4, 10 watt or 4, 20w will do the trick from what I can see by the little test. The tank has SPS corals in it, and I would put the 100 on a dimmer just to be sure.