Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

I was once told that the sudden burst of light shocks the coral, And thats why we ramp them up. Although I have no science too back that up.

Exactly and there also other benifits with invidual controlling of the different wavelenghts. When you introduce new corals it is a benifit if you can alter the intensity and also the quality of light.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Yes phosphor mixing is a major concern. They cannot do single rows of white LEDs and they need to space the chip out to keep the phosphors away from the other rows of LEDs. This is why I opted for a three channel (RWB) chip with 5 colours. It doesn't have 5 channels of control, but it has three colour groups instead of two (WB).

Testing chips is tough. I played around with about 5 different multichips before committing to a new design for 16 of them for my shop. At the time, multiple channels wasn't available and the chips turned out to be too violet/red with not enough blues. I had to scrap all 16 of them :( but fortunately the manufacturer gave me a full credit.

This thread has been held back by the group buy, and when anyone tries to point it out, they are called a "troll". Any of my suggestions that did not conform with the group buy chip were shot down. Once that chip ship had set sail, all other information became obsolete in a desperate buying frenzy.

Cool! Are you able to share with everyone else where you got them or who manufactured them? :thumbsup:
 
This thread has been held back by the group buy, and when anyone tries to point it out, they are called a "troll". Any of my suggestions that did not conform with the group buy chip were shot down. Once that chip ship had set sail, all other information became obsolete in a desperate buying frenzy.

I couldn't agree more. Lots of good suggestions from quite a few knowledgeable people here were ignored or shot down due to certain individuals who think better of themselves.

I would make more mention of the chips in your store, but not try to sell them directly from here. Give those interested in these chips other options instead of limiting them into one persons philosophy like this thread has done.
 
@megadeth

The 420 and 430 is no UV - in spite of what people call them. These wavelenghth right name is actinic. The UV begins below 400 nm. The actinic light will promote the fluorescence of your corals and some photosynthesis. UV protection of MH remove wavelengths below 400 nm.

Sincerely Lasse

This varies considerable with what text book you read. Most I have read call the light range from 380nm to 430 nm near UV. There also seems in some to be an overlap or gap as UVA is listed as under 360 to under 400 dependent on the text.

If you want to filter out UV light almost completly a clear piece of glass does a fantastic job. This is basicly how it is filtered out in MH fixtures.
 
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I was once told that the sudden burst of light shocks the coral, And thats why we ramp them up. Although I have no science too back that up.

On the subject I have read from several sources that at mid day when lighting is at its peak many corals actualy shut down to protect themselves from excessive light. If the light is not overly intesnse I doublt that a gradual ramp up is that benificiuial. I my self run the lights in three setting basicly 25% power, 50% power, and full power. There is an hour gap between the phases both in the AM and PM.
 
This varies considerable with what text book you read. Most I have read call the light range from 380nm to 430 nm near UV. There also seems in some to be an overlap or gap as UVA is listed as under 360 to under 400 dependent on the text.

If you want to filter out UV light almost completly a clear piece of glass does a fantastic job. This is basicly how it is filtered out in MH fixtures.

In Sweden we follow the ISO standard and its define different forms of ultraviolett as the wavelenghts between 400 -10 nm. UV-A defines as 400 - 315 nm.

Normally glass ability to filter out UV light is a modified truth. According to Wikipedia ordinary window glass passes about 90% of the light above 350 nm, but blocks over 90% of the light below 300 nm.

Here is some curves Soda lime glass from Sinclair, here you can find curves for other glas types

Most MH has a certain coating that prevent UV - not all. Double ended lamps often have no additional UV protection - at least in Europe

Sincerely Lasse.

On the subject I have read from several sources that at mid day when lighting is at its peak many corals actualy shut down to protect themselves from excessive light. If the light is not overly intesnse I doublt that a gradual ramp up is that benificiuial. I my self run the lights in three setting basicly 25% power, 50% power, and full power. There is an hour gap between the phases both in the AM and PM.

It works both ways - the important thing is that if you want to change the intesity (from day to day) - you have to do it slowly. If you adapt you corals to the way you run it it works but if you one day starts with 25 %, the other day with 100 and so on - it does not work very well IMO.
 
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Wow...this is a neat thread. Generally I'm more of a lurker than a poster but I thought I'd share my build in progress. I have a 40 gal breeder mixed reef that I'm currently running two aquatic life fixtures that I've linked together. One is the 36" 2x39w T5 and the other is the 1w expandable 36" 36w LED fixture. This has proven to be not enough for SPS at about 7" in depth. Colors were fading and I got some tissue loss. I pulled all my frags out and put them in my nano where I have a par38 blazing them at about 4"...much better for the time being and the color has returned to most of the frags.

Anyways...the 36w led fixture has an empty strip down the middle because I didn't opt for the 54w version which has an extra strip of 18 leds down the middle for another $110 bucks. So my plan is to start by adding 3x20w chips in that empty center strip. This will keep me from having to buy an addition heat sink because its made from a 36" heat sink to begin with. I opted for 1 x 20w 16k and 2 x 20w Actinic blue hybrid's (6 leds at 453 and 3 at 10k) from ac-rc. We will see what that gets me color wise...should be a decent mix and triple my light output. My tank is only 13" to the sand bed so this should work out pretty well and I can always add more later. The LEDs and driver haven't come from ac-rc yet but the thermal adhesive and 4 pack of 120mm case fans came in from newegg. So this is what I have come up with so far...came out pretty darn clean if I may say so. Take a look...

120mm case fans

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De-pinned the ends and wired them together. Used an old 12v adapter I had lying around from one of my old RC airplane battery chargers (my other hobby).

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Installed the fans on the back of the fixture with double sided foam tape.

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Tucked the wires away and powered them up...it works!

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Here you can the empty strip that runs down the center between the 1w led's that I'm planning on installed the 3x20w chips in.

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Finished product.

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Ambient/Room temperature with the fixture off and fully cooled.

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After an hour of running with out the fans...this is how the fixture ran stock. No way I could add the 20w chips to this.

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After ten minutes with the fans running...8 degrees above ambient. I can handle that...much more head room and the fans are silent. Success!

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I'll post more as the build comes together over the next week or so. Thanks to everyone who has contributed for this fantastic resource!
 
Thanks Lasse and Rick...the fixture has a splash guard to begin with that I'll just slide back on when I'm done. Should work out well. I'll post more as the parts come in.

-Mikk
 
Managed to get some pics today, got a FTS night cycle and some snaps of a couple corals and the nem. Battery ran dead after the coral / nem shots just as I was focusing for the FTS. I'm hoping for good conspiracy theories.
 

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Nice

I'm hoping for good conspiracy theories.

How about:

It is ridiculus to use pictures on the Internet to prove anything

You are a good user of Photoshop

There is hairy algaes to the right - Dream Chip (the "Shilled" Chip for some people) provoke algae growth!

:wavehand:

Keep up the good work tomservo

I hope that I´ll be able to publish some data later today or early next week. I have rigged up the first chip and will measure PAR in air. Preliminary data shows over 300 of PAR at 80 cm height in the air. The chip running at 80% of capacity. PAR reading also shows an even spread over an area defined by a circle of about 70 cm in diameter. My PAR meter is of a type that provides approximately 10% better in the blue region than Apogee.

I´m not pleased by my lenses - they are not as good as those I have used before - but they will work to the application I will make with this fixture

Sincerely Lasse
 
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LED & Driver info

LED & Driver info

LasseF, I have read through some of this thread and see alot of great info on it. I was curious as to how many HLG-240-36 B drivers I would need if I am going to be using (8) of these chips: Ebay link removed~dc and how I should wire them. I will be using my Neptune Systems Apex to control the dimming functions through the onboard VDM ports. Thanks for any information you can provide on this.
 
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PAR values from one of my Dream Chip (the "Shilled" Chip for some people). Measurements taken in air - distance 80 cm. Lens 60 degre

I´m not so pleased with my lens. it is of a new type, smaller and it gives a rectangular beam. It does not mix the different channels totally, therefore there is a an outer ring of a more white / yellow color when it is used in air. From experience, I know that the problem probibly disappears in water, at least it was so for a previous chip I tested (hybrid chip). Will there be a problem, I have to change the lens.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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I would think the manufacturer would rather only use one channel. Are there any two channel chips?

Also, how am I as a consumer supposed to know how the chip will turn out. I wantaround a 20k 60w(driven) chip. What would you then suggest?


I was once told that the sudden burst of light shocks the coral, And thats why we ramp them up. Although I have no science too back that up.

Manufacturers have to keep it cheap to make, but they also want to please all of the people all of the time. Most people don't know what they want and will not settle for a manufacturer's recommendation, no matter how qualified it is. It is too expensive to try 3-4 chips to find the one that is just right.

Some brands offer extensive control features, yet the spectrum and intensity available is too limited to make these dimming features useful. Out of the box, at 100% illumination, they barely reach the minimum PAR requirement of 200 in the substrate, so how can you dim out colours to get the look you think you need.

I haven't come across any two channel chips. Three channel chips are more accessible due to the RGB frame availability. You just need to change it from RGB (red, green, blue) to RWB (red, white, blue). Sounds pretty patriotic to me :)

In order to get a 20K look, while maintaining a broad spectrum, you need to use 14-16k chips with about 50% blue, royal blue & actinic. The best way to evaluate a chip is to ask other users. This thread is a great asset for that. Don't use photographs from fellow hobbyists or trade designations from Chinese manufacturers who don't know the hobby as any kind of indicator.

You can buy a "20k" chip, but it does not have the broad spectrum you get with a mixed set of chips. Phosphor technology simply isn't there yet.

One cool feature we may see in the near future is phosphor coated lenses (flat disks) that can be interchanged. There is a company that sells these already. You take a blue chip, pop in a phosphor coated lens over the multichip and it converts the light to a specific colour temperature. The last time I contacted them, they only went up to about 7,500k, but there is no reason why they can't represent the entire phosphor range (red, orange, yellow, green, etc.). You should be able to make a colour wheel lens or stack several thin lenses to mix your own phosphors.
 
Exactly and there also other benifits with invidual controlling of the different wavelenghts. When you introduce new corals it is a benifit if you can alter the intensity and also the quality of light.

Sincerely Lasse

There is a benefit to photo-acclimating new corals to adapt them to your lighting system;however, one cannot dim the whole tank and change the lighting conditions for all of the other corals in order to cater to one new one for several weeks. The proper way to acclimate new corals is to start them off deeper in the tank and move them up as they acclimate over days or weeks.

How would one know which wavelengths to dim or increase for a new coral? How would that not harm the existing corals?
 
I couldn't agree more. Lots of good suggestions from quite a few knowledgeable people here were ignored or shot down due to certain individuals who think better of themselves.

I would make more mention of the chips in your store, but not try to sell them directly from here. Give those interested in these chips other options instead of limiting them into one persons philosophy like this thread has done.

The chips over my store tanks are manufactured by Orphek. Orphek is a paying sponsor here on RC, but sponsors are not permitted to discuss their products here in the public forum, only in the sponsor forum, buried where nobody goes :)
 
This varies considerable with what text book you read. Most I have read call the light range from 380nm to 430 nm near UV. There also seems in some to be an overlap or gap as UVA is listed as under 360 to under 400 dependent on the text.

If you want to filter out UV light almost completly a clear piece of glass does a fantastic job. This is basicly how it is filtered out in MH fixtures.

I agree, it is near UV. It shows up on my Apogee UV meter.
 
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I was once told that the sudden burst of light shocks the coral, And thats why we ramp them up. Although I have no science too back that up.

On the subject I have read from several sources that at mid day when lighting is at its peak many corals actualy shut down to protect themselves from excessive light. If the light is not overly intesnse I doublt that a gradual ramp up is that benificiuial. I my self run the lights in three setting basicly 25% power, 50% power, and full power. There is an hour gap between the phases both in the AM and PM.

Again, I agree:)

A sudden flash of light would shock fish, but not coral. Corals do not use their photon receptors until light is available.

In natural reefs, there are no trees or mountains to shadow the sunrise. The sun rises quickly in the tropics. Photo-inhibition is common at certain times.
 
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