Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Question for all you wiring experts. I have 4 40watt multi chips right now running at 700ma on individual drivers (2 dimmable, 2 non dimmable) and I would like to put them all on the same ballast. The reason being is that I would like to be able to dim them together for best color control.

Because of how they are now wired I'm pretty sure wiring parallel is my only option and the easiest. Will leds only draw as much power as they require and no more? I saw a meanwell 185w 4.4 amp ballast on rapid led and it's the only ballast that I could find close to the 160 watts that my leds would need. The leds that I have can run at a max of 1amp but I run them at 700ma right now because I don't need that much power.

Right now my only 2 dimmable drivers are 40 watt inventronics drivers. Would it be better to just by 2 more of those and wire all the potentiometers together, if that's even possible? Or just go with one bigger driver? Thanks

A link or the exact detailed specs to the LED's your using would be very helpful to what your asking. Knowing how the individual LED's are wired together or seperatly on the mount is also needed.

I will say that if you have a 4.4 Amp driver it will put 4.4 Amps out to your LED 'a regardless of there rating. If you can wire them all in parrellel then each of the four would be drawing 1.1 Amp ieach provided the impedience of each of the chios is identiacal. If they are each a different color I doubt they are simular enough to do this.
 
A link or the exact detailed specs to the LED's your using would be very helpful to what your asking. Knowing how the individual LED's are wired together or seperatly on the mount is also needed.

I will say that if you have a 4.4 Amp driver it will put 4.4 Amps out to your LED 'a regardless of there rating. If you can wire them all in parrellel then each of the four would be drawing 1.1 Amp ieach provided the impedience of each of the chios is identiacal. If they are each a different color I doubt they are simular enough to do this.

The leds are now wired up individually on separate heat sinks and to separate drivers. That's why I figured it would be easiest to wire them up in parallel, just rip out my current drivers and connect all the existing wiring to the new driver. All 4 are the same exact led. 1.1 amp may be a little more then id like to run them at but I hope you can tell me if that's not a problem.

The actual wattage for my leds is 30. I put 40 watts by accident on my other post. I'm using 40 watt drivers as mentioned previously. Here is the page where the specs are: http://www.satisled.com/30w-high-po...0k-and-cold-white-20000k-for-choice_p954.html. The emitting color of my led on the spec sheet is pure white.
 
The leds are now wired up individually on separate heat sinks and to separate drivers. That's why I figured it would be easiest to wire them up in parallel, just rip out my current drivers and connect all the existing wiring to the new driver. All 4 are the same exact led. 1.1 amp may be a little more then id like to run them at but I hope you can tell me if that's not a problem.

The actual wattage for my leds is 30. I put 40 watts by accident on my other post. I'm using 40 watt drivers as mentioned previously. Here is the page where the specs are: http://www.satisled.com/30w-high-po...0k-and-cold-white-20000k-for-choice_p954.html. The emitting color of my led on the spec sheet is pure white.


They rate the LED's at 30 Watts with a 1,000ma Current. Per ohms law that would mean they are running at 30 Volts. If you want to 4 of them in series you would be looking at a 1 Amp driver capable of handling 120 Volts. Which I know does not exist and it did I would reccomend running that high of a DC voltage.

So parallel would mean 4 Amps at 30 Volts and at least a 120 Amp driver. The HLG-120H-30 is the only driver I can see that will meet your needs. It comes in a B so you should be able to use it with any type of controler.
 
They rate the LED's at 30 Watts with a 1,000ma Current. Per ohms law that would mean they are running at 30 Volts. If you want to 4 of them in series you would be looking at a 1 Amp driver capable of handling 120 Volts. Which I know does not exist and it did I would reccomend running that high of a DC voltage.

So parallel would mean 4 Amps at 30 Volts and at least a 120 Amp driver. The HLG-120H-30 is the only driver I can see that will meet your needs. It comes in a B so you should be able to use it with any type of controler.

Great thanks. I will look into that driver.
 
4 30w leds, 30v, 1amp each? You can run four in parallel, each one on a separate driver. The meanwell LDD drivers are fantastic, but you will need a 36v 5a power supply.
 
4 30w leds, 30v, 1amp each? You can run four in parallel, each one on a separate driver. The meanwell LDD drivers are fantastic, but you will need a 36v 5a power supply.

So you're saying the HLG-120H-30 will not be enough and I need to get a stronger driver?

If I get a 5 amp driver wouldn't I be pushing those Chinese leds way past their limit and burn them out faster?
 
So you're saying the HLG-120H-30 will not be enough and I need to get a stronger driver?

If I get a 5 amp driver wouldn't I be pushing those Chinese leds way past their limit and burn them out faster?

You can´t use HLG-120H-30b to run these chips in parallel mode. The constant current region (max 30 V) is to low. The LED spec says 30 - 36 V as forward voltage and the max amperage as 1000 mA. Normally it means that the forward voltage at max (1000 mA) will be around 36 V. The HLG-120H-36b is a better choose but it will give you around 850 mA (theoretical) for each leg. To use a parallel solution is always risky. If you lose 1 leg - you will risk to burn the rest of the chip (3.4/3 = 1130 mA) 4 very fast fuses or a mirror solution will solve that problem.

As Trop Trea stated - there are few high voltage drivers out there and you will not work with low voltage solution. However - Mean well has coming up with a solution that means that you can connect 4 of your chips in a daisy chain (serial connection - the best for power LEDs). They have a new HLG series - the C-series. The HLG-120H-C700 or HLG-120H-C1050 (you should dim it down to around 900 - 950 mA) should work. With this series of drivers you can connect 3 to 4 of your chips in a daisy chain (no less - no more) The downside is that the voltage over approximately 50 V DC involve the risk of personal injury. You must deal with constructions of this type in the same way you are dealing with 90 to 240 V AC

Summary: HLG - 120H - 36B is safer for you but less safe for your chip's: The HLG-120H-C series is more dangerous for you but safer for your chip's

Sincerely Lasse
 
Yes - its still doing well and I´m very satisfied with the result.

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Sincerely Lasse
 
You can´t use HLG-120H-30b to run these chips in parallel mode. The constant current region (max 30 V) is to low. The LED spec says 30 - 36 V as forward voltage and the max amperage as 1000 mA. Normally it means that the forward voltage at max (1000 mA) will be around 36 V. The HLG-120H-36b is a better choose but it will give you around 850 mA (theoretical) for each leg. To use a parallel solution is always risky. If you lose 1 leg - you will risk to burn the rest of the chip (3.4/3 = 1130 mA) 4 very fast fuses or a mirror solution will solve that problem.

As Trop Trea stated - there are few high voltage drivers out there and you will not work with low voltage solution. However - Mean well has coming up with a solution that means that you can connect 4 of your chips in a daisy chain (serial connection - the best for power LEDs). They have a new HLG series - the C-series. The HLG-120H-C700 or HLG-120H-C1050 (you should dim it down to around 900 - 950 mA) should work. With this series of drivers you can connect 3 to 4 of your chips in a daisy chain (no less - no more) The downside is that the voltage over approximately 50 V DC involve the risk of personal injury. You must deal with constructions of this type in the same way you are dealing with 90 to 240 V AC

Summary: HLG - 120H - 36B is safer for you but less safe for your chip's: The HLG-120H-C series is more dangerous for you but safer for your chip's

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks for clarifying that. The chips were probably $20 a piece so if they go, I'll live with it. Although they've been running for close to a year so I'm not too worried about one suddenly going out.

I would rather have it safer for me because more than once I have touched bare leads working in my cabinet and gotten zapped. Since the C series are new, I would guess that they are a little more pricey so I will probably go with the B series.

Also, can I use a potentiometer to dim the b series driver or only a controller?
 
Hi to all...
I never posted in this area, but I bought some 10w leds from dealextreme, and I did not find any lens for them.
Would be possible any of you say one that is capable of being used in this 10W leds?From dealextreme too please.
http://dx.com/p/10w-20000k-700-lume...ydroponic-plant-fish-grow-bulb-dc-9-11v-95819
http://dx.com/p/10w-180lm-445-447nm-blue-light-led-emitter-9-11v-100875
http://dx.com/p/10w-200lm-460-465nm-square-led-blue-light-module-9-11v-156140

and another thing, I´m looking for something like 30 degree lenses...
Thanks in advance!
 
Im really thinking of doing this. I have a 220 that is 72L x 24D x 30L. Anyone done this on a tank like that? Does anyone have any suggestions what to run as far as combos, quantites, and lenses? THanks in advance.
 
Sorry to be so forward, but we need to keep the facts straight.

..

Lets assume you pay some the crazy tiered rate and your average cost per kWh is $0.50 per kWh. Your lights would still only contribute (worst case) $82 to your bill, but much less due to the tiered average. (Note, that if you are paying that tier, then you have a $1500 electric bill to begin with).
Well since we're keeping facts straight, the crazy tiered electrical system we have out here has a level of whackiness that is inversely proportional to how much electricity you actually use (or are expected to use). For instance I live way worse in the People's Republic of San Francisco, inside of the People's Republic of California, and because the climate is mild here, and we are never expected to need air conditioning (and the reality is no one needs it here) our baseline quantity for electricity usage in the summer is 7.7 kWh per day (it's a tad higher in the winter, but luckily we have natural gas so not too much higher).

Now the highest tier is 300% above baseline, so that's 23.1 kWh a day usage, or 693 kWh a month. Some of your reefers look at your bill, how much into this highest tier would you be here with that much usage?

For simplicity of math lets assume every kWh was billed at batsh*t insane 50 cents an hour rates, that would only put your electric bill at $346 dollars a month, not $1500 (the electric company has a neat little app you can play with online, and it shows the actual value at $231/month). Of course down in SoCal things might be different since they get a larger allotment because of the "need" of A/C during the summer and what not. But that's besides the point :)

But yeah, no way I'm saving $100 a month switching from halides to good happy feelings and social equality for all to light my tank... plus like Mr Wilson, halides heating my tank is a benefit as the room the tank(s) are in fluctuates between about 50-60 degrees. I do however love being able to dim certain colors throughout the day rather than BLAM all on or off.
 
I need some help, guidance or assistance if possible. I am building a 96"L x 48"W x 24"H tank and thought about using this multichip LED:

http://www.clay-boa.com/lumia-5-1-100w-full-spectrum-5-channel-led/

I will need 8 over my tank(because I plan on having this as a dominant SPS tank) and I dont know how many drivers I will need and will it be worth the time.

Wayne

Hey Wayne, that site is actually banned here.. but most of us know what clay-boa is... :D

That said that LED is 5 channels, how many drivers you'll need will depend upon what you want to do with the chip. You could run run all of them at the same rate by tying all the V+ wires together and all the V- wires together, in which case you'd need a driver that could output ~ 100watts at 700 mA for each multichip. Or you could tie 2 or 3 channels together and run 2 drivers per multichip. Now if you want all 5 channels independently dimmable (or able to be turned on/off) you'd need a driver for each channel, now with most drivers aimed at the LED market that we work with they handle about 14 LEDs max, and since each channel is 10 LEDs that's 5 drivers per chip, of course you could tie multiple channels from multiple chips together but.... you'd need something with a higher voltage than the 48V which I'm not sure if they make.

If you're going to go with these, I would say I hope you have good soldering skills, and can wire up a project box to serve as a power supply, use some of those LDD driver boards from the other thread otherwise you're going to be crowded in an octopus of wires. If it were me, I'd probably just spend the extra money on a premade units (e.g. Kessil 360) and be done with it. Basically what I'm saying, is if you have the skillset to do this, than it could be worth it, but for many (even with the skillset) the convenience factor trumps any cost savings.
 
Well since we're keeping facts straight, the crazy tiered electrical system we have out here has a level of whackiness that is inversely proportional to how much electricity you actually use (or are expected to use). For instance I live way worse in the People's Republic of San Francisco, inside of the People's Republic of California, and because the climate is mild here, and we are never expected to need air conditioning (and the reality is no one needs it here) our baseline quantity for electricity usage in the summer is 7.7 kWh per day (it's a tad higher in the winter, but luckily we have natural gas so not too much higher).

Now the highest tier is 300% above baseline, so that's 23.1 kWh a day usage, or 693 kWh a month. Some of your reefers look at your bill, how much into this highest tier would you be here with that much usage?

For simplicity of math lets assume every kWh was billed at batsh*t insane 50 cents an hour rates, that would only put your electric bill at $346 dollars a month, not $1500 (the electric company has a neat little app you can play with online, and it shows the actual value at $231/month). Of course down in SoCal things might be different since they get a larger allotment because of the "need" of A/C during the summer and what not. But that's besides the point :)

But yeah, no way I'm saving $100 a month switching from halides to good happy feelings and social equality for all to light my tank... plus like Mr Wilson, halides heating my tank is a benefit as the room the tank(s) are in fluctuates between about 50-60 degrees. I do however love being able to dim certain colors throughout the day rather than BLAM all on or off.

Wow. I figured the tiers were based on actual usage averages, not rationing. As if I needed another reason never to move there.
 
Wow. I figured the tiers were based on actual usage averages, not rationing. As if I needed another reason never to move there.

Well I think their rational is that it's an "average load" for any given region, but I call shenanigans on that whole thing, and not just because I use more electricity than most, even before tank I very often pushed into at least an extra tier beyond 100% baseline usage, and that's living by myself, with no electrical appliances other than a microwave, TV & refrigerator and being a guy I hardly ever used the clothes washer :D
 
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