Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Thank you. My humble opine is that you can´t get to much of light but you have to slowly adapt the corals and have a high grade of water movement. I have mainly softies - but light for SPS - and my corals are growing a lot. I have a high intensity light only for 4 - 5 hours and a total light period of 12 hours - the normal high light period at a reef in nature. My figures is 300 - 500 PAR as max at the bottom (60 cm of water).

Sincerely Lasse

Sorry lasse one more question, if I was to go with a 50w rb led run at about 75% and wanted a full spectrum look what 3-10w LEDs should I add in what amount and configuration. I love the look the dream chip gives off just don't know if I can drop the cash on a chip that might never see proper use. This is just a project to mess around with LEDs and soldering and wiring things, kind of a hobby in its own for me
 
I don't think you could run a 500w multichip without fans, regardless of heatsink. The area around the chip would get very hot before the heat would spread to other parts of the heatsink; I wouldn't run anything more than 20w passively cooled.

The problem with mutichips, IMO, is that you can't jam a Cree or Luxeon in there. As a result, even though you only run each individual chip at 1w, the chips themselves are of poorer quality and give less efficiency. And many chips offer poorer spectrum than Dreamchips or Lumias.
Other than that, multichips are the best.
 
. It's like having someone post "...but t5's and halides are still tried and true" in a multichip fanatic thread :)

Hey now.... I have been following this thread since the 3rd page. I even have heatsinks ready to go, but, you all keep changing the rules. Halides and T5's ARE tried and true and we know where they stand. I was about to jump on the 1-2watts, then the 100 watt single came out and now.....??? You all need to get it together and finish this silliness so I can buy some LEDs that work just like T5's or Halides with same predictable end results. :hammer:


Yes I agree but I also disagree.

Need I say more? :facepalm: :lolspin:



I digress, carry on. :)
 
Sorry lasse one more question, if I was to go with a 50w rb led run at about 75% and wanted a full spectrum look what 3-10w LEDs should I add in what amount and configuration. I love the look the dream chip gives off just don't know if I can drop the cash on a chip that might never see proper use. This is just a project to mess around with LEDs and soldering and wiring things, kind of a hobby in its own for me

What is is depth of your aquarium ?

Sincerely Lasse
 
I don't think you could run a 500w multichip without fans, regardless of heatsink. The area around the chip would get very hot before the heat would spread to other parts of the heatsink; I wouldn't run anything more than 20w passively cooled.

The problem with mutichips, IMO, is that you can't jam a Cree or Luxeon in there. As a result, even though you only run each individual chip at 1w, the chips themselves are of poorer quality and give less efficiency. And many chips offer poorer spectrum than Dreamchips or Lumias.
Other than that, multichips are the best.

CREE and Luxeon do make multi chips of varrious sorts. they just aren't very redily available for our use yet. they also make a whole host of multi-emmiter arrays like the Luxeon K that cram up to 24 chips on a PCB similarly sized to that of a 50w emmiter. main problem still......we can't buy them in quantiteis of one or two....

Luxeon M is available and easily replaces a standard 10w multi emitter chip interms of output but with Luxeons higher quality. these are available to us.
 
Thinking about doing 3 50w LEDs on my tank but I'm not sure on the whole driver thing. I ran across a good deal on a meanwell hlg-150h-36b. Would this be an ok driver to run the three 50w LEDs?
 
It's a 50g semi cube 24x24x20

First off for a tank your size which is 50 gallons I would recommend between 100 Watts and 150 Watts of total LED lighting dependent on what corals you wanted to keep and your preference for the color.

With the surface dimendions of 24" X 24" I would recomend at least 4 point light sources. So you would be looking at 4 25 Watt to 40 watt light sources. If your using a dimmer control then you can go up a little higher on the total wattage since you will not be running them near 100%.

Now keep in mind my calculations are based on LED's that are averaging 100 lum per watt. There are some more powerful LED's out there as well as some that do not even close to this. Cree now has several in the 125 lums per wat range and claim to be shortly releasing a new series that was measured at 260 lums per watt. Also I'm looking at getting a fairly even light distribution to minimize hard shadows and dark areas under your larger corals.

Color selection however is a big factor. If you use neutral white LED's 4,000 K to 5,000 K I like a roughly 4 to 1 ratio of Blues to Whites. But with cool Whiotes 6,000K and above I reduce that ratio considerably to possibly even 2 to 1 dependent on personal color choice. Note when I'm looking Blues I'm looking at both Royal Blues , True Blues, and near UV LED's. While I'm not an advocate of using red LED's if you are using Cool White as small amount of red in the 620 nm range I would recommend to neutralize the predominant blue cast, but with the neutral whites there is already a strong enough red element.
 
CREE and Luxeon do make multi chips of varrious sorts. they just aren't very redily available for our use yet. they also make a whole host of multi-emmiter arrays like the Luxeon K that cram up to 24 chips on a PCB similarly sized to that of a 50w emmiter. main problem still......we can't buy them in quantiteis of one or two....

Luxeon M is available and easily replaces a standard 10w multi emitter chip interms of output but with Luxeons higher quality. these are available to us.

The real issue here is the retailers. Those chips can be special ordered at an extremly reasonable price by the retailers. However in order to break the standard of all emiters of the same color they need to order them in a considerable lot size.

Now considering how the technology is changing and the size of the aquarium market today they must be cautious on there investment in inventory. It they have to purchase 10,000 chips to get thiis special color mix how long will they remain in stock? If that comes out to be a 2 or 3 year stock pile what happends when the XYZ chip is release 6 or 18 months from now and the chip they have in stock becomes old technology?

Also keep in mind that if they have 10,000 chips that are single emiters it will light up 200 tank of do it yourselfers but if they are higher output and require only 8 per tank them they need to find 1,200 customers rather than just 200 customers to sell them.

When I had my store and was selling aquarium lighting I will say that I could sell 30 $80 light fistures for every one that I sold at $350.00. The $80 light fixture also yielded a considerably higher mark up for me than the $350 fixture.
 
1) It has to be new
Yes in most cases this is very true.

2) It has to look cool
This is where the problem exists. What is cool looking?

Color wis: Johnie want the florescense in his coral to look like a cartoon picture, Jack wants his tank to look like the ocean looks when hi is diving at 50 meters deep, Carl wants his tank to show off the colors of his fish. Mark does not care about color as long as his corals grow huge.

Style wise Then you have the other thing where Mary wants tank that blends with her Victorian furnature, and Jack wants it to look like it is something from the 23rd century.

Blending Herman whats a lighting that accents his prize coral and everything else blends out in the background with spot lighting, Dennis wants everything evenly lighted so all sapects of the tank are shown equally.

3) The cost has to be low enough not to set off alarms with wife/girlfriend (or both)

This can be a real sore spot for many in different ways. I will say that probably 1/2 of my old regular customers from 10 years ago now longer have a tank today of any type. The economy is a big driving force here in my mind today yet.

But also many of higher spending customers were women in the past. Sure they were less likely to build a lighting system on there own but they were more ready to buy the $350 light for there 75 gallon tank than the $80 light.

4) The fixture has to involve the user in some way through building or programming

I don't think this is as important as the individual needs to be convinced that theis is the best he can get for his dolars. Regarless of some has a $200 budget for a light fixture or a $10,000 budget he wants to know that he is getting his oneys worth out of it.

Then you have the people that look at their time also being worth money. Some value an hour an hour at $10.00 others cvalue the hour at $100, and some look at it purely as enjoyment. The enjoyment guy will build someting for $500 that he could buy in the store for $250 but prides himself in the fact that he built it and that is priceless to him.

Fortunatly today we are not seeing the $500 do it yourself build that would only cost $250 in the store but would cost over $1,00 in the store. Provided he does not count his time. But will that change when LED technology hits it leveling off point?

5) For most consumers it has to have the nod of acceptance form the forum members and reef bloggers

Yes there is some truth here. But I would put the people that do come into my house at a much higher priority. Having been in the industry I see people still in the industry at times. The comments from them after seeing my tanks is more important to me than some stangers. The same goes for my other friends and relatives that see my tanks first hand. Many of them now have tanks because they were impressed with mine. Some now have better tanks than mine especialy lighting wise because they asked me to build them a light and technology has advanced since I built my lights.
 
It's a 50g semi cube 24x24x20

My 1:st choose would be one of the multi channels chip that exist. The reason for that is that you can use a "cannon" style and that they have both RB and actinic (near UV) LEDs.

The lower "blue" wavelenghts is very important both for growth and the couloring of the corals. Probably you will manage with one of the 50 LED chips (Lumia 5.1 or original 50 LED Dream Chip)

I think the cost will be the same compared with a combination of 10 and 20 W LED multi chip and more than one driver. I would use a 60 degree lens and put the cannon around 10 " from the surface and have 5 different drivers.



Sincerely Lasse
 
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@lassef how many of the multi channel chips would you recommend for a 130" L 30" x 24" H would like to keep sps, lps etc.

My aquarium is 47"*24"*24". I have 3 original 100 LED Dream Chip. Each of them with an input at 150 W. (Max 200 - 250 W) They are mounted 8.5 " over the water surface. I use 60 degrees lenses. I read between 200 to 400 PAR at the bottom. Just now I have some 10 watts LED pointing against my background. I´m only run max for 4 to 5 hours a day. Dim period between 0 - 100 and back is totally 7 hours. Total 12 hours of light.

I think you will have a descent light with 6 - 7 100 LEDs chip of the original DC and if you mount a 90 degree lens on every second chip I think you will manage with 6 chip. You can also run the chip´s with 90 degree lenses at 200 W input. If you mount your cannons a little bit closer to the front window and point them 5 - 10 degrees against the background you will have lesser alga's on the front window.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Hey Lasse, are your drivers capable of pushing your DC above 150W if you want to? is the 200 to 400 par your desired target at the sand bed. Last question, what is the amperage you run to each of the 5 channels?---Rick
 
CREE and Luxeon do make multi chips of varrious sorts. they just aren't very redily available for our use yet. they also make a whole host of multi-emmiter arrays like the Luxeon K that cram up to 24 chips on a PCB similarly sized to that of a 50w emmiter. main problem still......we can't buy them in quantiteis of one or two....

Luxeon M is available and easily replaces a standard 10w multi emitter chip interms of output but with Luxeons higher quality. these are available to us.

If you go on a site like Newark or Mouser and look at the selection of REAL Bridgelux array chips (Not like aquastyle fakes; but that's for another day) then they sell big emitters in the 50-200w range. That combined with royals blues like the Luxeon M apparently give a shimmer effect like metal halides. Look up the "Evil cluster".
 
@lassef how many of the multi channel chips would you recommend for a 130" L 30" x 24" H would like to keep sps, lps etc.

Looking at my concepts compared to others. You have 406 gallons so I would be targeting between 800 and 1200 total watts. yes this is a little more than others recomend. Also with a surface area of 27 square feet I'd be looking at 27 point light sources for even light distribution. This means each light would be in the range of 18 to 28 watts. Keep in mind you can be running more powerfull when you use controlable LED's since you waon;t be running them all at 100% power.

The difference between my concept is more even lighting throughout the tank. With Lassef systen he gets a varience of 200 to 400 PAR across the bottom of his tank and with mind it would be vary from 300 to 350 across the bottom.
 
Looking at my concepts compared to others. You have 406 gallons so I would be targeting between 800 and 1200 total watts. yes this is a little more than others recomend. Also with a surface area of 27 square feet I'd be looking at 27 point light sources for even light distribution. This means each light would be in the range of 18 to 28 watts. Keep in mind you can be running more powerfull when you use controlable LED's since you waon;t be running them all at 100% power.

The difference between my concept is more even lighting throughout the tank. With Lassef systen he gets a varience of 200 to 400 PAR across the bottom of his tank and with mind it would be vary from 300 to 350 across the bottom.


Are you using the 5 channel 100 watt multichip
 
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