George,
Great pics, thanks for sharing. Couple questions, are you using any dimming? what are you using for your heatsinks? and how is the air exiting the fixture from your fans? Thanks---Rick
Hi All,
Just an update... I finally finish my build... and installed last night.
just to recap... my build details using 10Watts chip:
4pcs - Blue 460-470nm
4pcs - Royal Blue 455-465nm
2pcs - Royal Blue 445-450nm
2pcs - Near UV (violet) 402-405nm
8pcs - 10000k-16000k
Driver: Meanwell ELN-60-48D running 5 chips per driver at 850mA
Heatsink: 1220mm x 150mm x 75mm Aluminum, I also added some fins under the fans. All metal work is made of aluminum for the extra heat sink.
Fan: 2pcs Noctua NF-P12 120mm @12V
Floramate for Dimming and Sunrise & Sunset simulation
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Hey guys, finally got my LEDs after what seems like a year in transit. LOL Well I used my multimeter to measure the resistance of the LED and one of them reads Overload and the other reads a resistance of 5Kohms.
I also hooked the meter in series to the circuit to find the current and I am not getting any current reading.
I ask because my LEDs are not working.
I have my positive (+) hooked to the anode and negative (-) hooked to the cathode.
@ wogga: Look at the pattern I made in post 1091st I think it would be great for you. 1 piece 20-watt (or stronger) white light source in the middle and the blue spread evenly around.
I have noticed that the red in the middle gives a "disco effect" if it runs too strong or too close. This is because the wave movements resulting in a "shimmer" effect in the right corner of the aquarium. Have never seen this with blue light or white light. The test was the lighting only 15 cm from the surface. You wanted the lighting higher up and then you should probably use lenses. If you have a 90 in the middle and 60 degrees on the other, I think it will be good. Of course you may increase the distance between the chips so you can fit lenses. You can try things out but I think you get the best effect (or lack of effect) if you put the chips as a plus with the most divergent in the middle. The middle one should also have higher output - how much higher I do not know but I do not think there is a problem with either 30 or 50 watts - 20 watts works, I know.
Sincerely Lasse
I must've missed his post with 16K leds. Jtrasap also posted previously with his 20Ks and they also have yellow in them too. Hopefully Lassef and Maglofster can help me identify if I got the right color.
Hello all,
I ordered two 100 watt LEDs and wanted to make sure that I could use this meanwell driver HLG-240h-36B in series.
Any thoughts let me know.
My impression is that the real Kelvin degrees can vary by manufacturer. I tried a few 10-watt chip with 20 000 K and for my eyes so they looked more yellow than they 16 000 K, I already had. On the other hand, I've seen 100 watt chip where the 20 000 K was much more blue.
Sincerel Lasse