Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Not quite sure how to interpret your results from your tests... Ignoring the outer edge, what light is the most preferable to the eye?

It is difficult to say but I think most reefers should prefer the mixed chip. However it is a little bit to blue for me and I think that I should prefer the typ of chip that ronreef use 50/50 blue and white. I have tested both of this constructions in a large shark tank (4 meters deep) and in that tank the mixed one was the best for the eye.

Sincerely Lasse
 
@Lassef I have a 96x30x30 and would appreciate your advice on lighting this monster.

It is not easy to provide any good advice, in this case. It is a deep tank. How will you design the interior? Should you have a sloping reef to the back or a more airy structure? I think it's important to work with a varied light and you should adjust wattage according to how your interior looks. Can you tell me how you plan to decorate and what types of corals you are going to have so I can try to come up with a basic proposal that you can then work on following your own taste.

Sincerely Lasse
 
It is not easy to provide any good advice, in this case. It is a deep tank. How will you design the interior? Should you have a sloping reef to the back or a more airy structure? I think it's important to work with a varied light and you should adjust wattage according to how your interior looks. Can you tell me how you plan to decorate and what types of corals you are going to have so I can try to come up with a basic proposal that you can then work on following your own taste.

Sincerely Lasse

I plan on doing a mix sps,lps, softies on the bottom maybe a clam on the sand
 
This is my setup
 

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FYI: According to ac-rc, the LED chips they sell are precisely selected to within 3nm of the allocated bin. Chips are selected (binary code allocated) with very high precision which is the reason their LEDs are much more expensive than other sellers.
 
When I first started to use this type of chip´s 1.5 years ago I was a little bit worried for the high temperature on the front of the chip. I considered a solution with air flowing in front of the chip but I ignored it and just let it be as it was. I have now run this fixtures for 1.5 years without any trouble.

Sincerely Lasse

The reason the business end gets hot is the phosphor is embedded in and the whole assembly (dies, phosphor) is covered in silicone. Silicone conducts heat poorly so the heat from absorbed photons and the heat conducted directly from the top of the die doesn't disperse easily. This is why all mfr's say DO NOT TOUCH the front of the LED - the silicone can get contaminated with oils and such, and under the high heat oils can break it down.

When crees are hot the little clear silicone dome will stick like hot glue! Hurts like a *****.

On a side note, I ordered my lenses from satisled; their price is excellent on these items. Placed an order for the drivers for some lights as well..
 
FYI: According to ac-rc, the LED chips they sell are precisely selected to within 3nm of the allocated bin. Chips are selected (binary code allocated) with very high precision which is the reason their LEDs are much more expensive than other sellers.

I'm actually very interested in making a test build with their multichips to compare with my 180w 3 watter. Since they don't have violet 420nm in a hybrid blue/white/violet chip, what would be the best way to blend that in? Using 3w leds to supplement would seem to defeat the purpose of the multichip build, but using a 20w violet multichip next to a 50w might not look right?
 
My plan for 420's on the fixture I am planning will be to put a "ring" of 6 3w around the main emitter, going to use a strip of soft sheet aluminum and twist 90" for the segments between emitters, thus allowing the air to flow down from the round cpu fan above. I don't think 420's will cause noticeable disco shadows. Sort of like the ring that orphek sell for their pendant but done differently. Clear as mud now!
 
I just bought three of the 60W actinic blue hybrid 30 10000K X 30 445-447nm Royal blue panels.

Question: How high are people driving these chips? The spec says it can be run up to 4.2A or 151W at 36V. Is there any benefit to buying the higher current PS? Where is the sweet spot as far as efficiency goes?

I am looking at these three Mean Well power supplies. The difference in cost is not significant (like $5).

HLG-100H-36B (1.65-2.65A)
HLG-120H-36B (1.7-3.4A)
HLG-150H-36B (2.5-4.2A)

I think I just talked myself into buying the 150W PS and dimming it down with the dimming function :)

What do you guys think?
 
I'm actually very interested in making a test build with their multichips to compare with my 180w 3 watter. Since they don't have violet 420nm in a hybrid blue/white/violet chip, what would be the best way to blend that in? Using 3w leds to supplement would seem to defeat the purpose of the multichip build, but using a 20w violet multichip next to a 50w might not look right?

There are a couple ways I can think of to blend two different size multichips together. One is to simply mount them as close as possible to each other. Arctic Cooling sells a dual VGA cooler: Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo 6990 VGA Heatpipe Cooler. You can mount the 50 on one of the mains and the 20 just off to the side. Then mount another 50 or some other multichip on the other main. Expensive and probably not practical, but you get the idea.

The second way is to mount each chip on separate gooseneck fixture and angle the light into each other for a blend. This works on rimless tanks.

Ron
 
Well this thread just goes bonkers if you don't check it for a day!!!

I think what I am going to do is get a batch of 20W multichips and a bunch of 3W chips and build a test fixture. I'll put the 20W array over half of my 120, and the 3W array over the other half and play with things a bit...
 
I just bought three of the 60W actinic blue hybrid 30 10000K X 30 445-447nm Royal blue panels.

Question: How high are people driving these chips? The spec says it can be run up to 4.2A or 151W at 36V. Is there any benefit to buying the higher current PS? Where is the sweet spot as far as efficiency goes?

I am looking at these three Mean Well power supplies. The difference in cost is not significant (like $5).

HLG-100H-36B (1.65-2.65A)
HLG-120H-36B (1.7-3.4A)
HLG-150H-36B (2.5-4.2A)

I think I just talked myself into buying the 150W PS and dimming it down with the dimming function :)

What do you guys think?

Youre probably better off using a 100W hybrid with the power supply you chose. Using that power supply with the 60W is overkill. I'm all for overdriving a multichip but super overdriving is probably not the best use for that size chip. I say this because I like to use the full range of the dimming function.
I bought the same 60W hybrid and use the HLG-80.
 
I think there are a number of ways to go to get good lighting for your aquarium, but in the end it is your personal taste to decide. The aquarium is also large which makes it very well could work with both bright areas and areas with less light to get the most vibrant aquarium as possible Since the aquarium is so deep I'd probably use the 100 watt chip based on Epistar (the ones going to drive up to 250 W). Personally, I would probably choose the all-white chip (16 - 20 000 K) as a base.

I should also prefer to work with lenses. Dimmable drivers is a prerequisite and Mean Well HLG-185h-36 B is a good choice (HLG-185h-42 B would work as well) If you use this drivers you should start with only 60 - 70 % of the real capacity - the reason why I suggest this drivers is because you will have possibilties to rise the output if you need. If you want to be more "safe" the HLG-150H-36B is a good choise

To get to the important blue wavelengths, I have been thinking about working with a 100 watt in the center and have blue chip around. Still the same fixture. The same idea that I worked with in this project. You can se the blending here. However you need more space between the chip´s so you can fit in the lenses.

If you put all of this chip´s together at the same fixture you must have a good thermal solution. Let us say that you have one "100 W" sorrunded by six 20 W RB in different wavelenghts - you mayby need to take away 250 watts of heat. I have tested a soution where I have a aluminum plate between the chip´s and a heatpipe cooler and it works well. In this case you need a better cooler than I have - the one mentioned by ronreef (# 1520) will probably work well.

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A good driver to 3 pieces of 20 watts in a daisy chain should be HLG-80H-42B (with a current of 1.95 A the FV of three chip in a daisy chain will be around 30 - 32 V (the AC-RC 20 watt chip) and you will use around 60 W.

I should use 90 or 120 degree lens to the white in the middle and 60 degree lens to the 20 watts.

I think that three of this monsters should bee a good start :)

Another pathway is ronreefs idea with a gooseneck. The good thing with this idea is that you have the ability to direct the beam where you want it. In this case I probably should use up to 6 chip (Epistar 100 W) and mix white 16 - 20 000 K with RB with 445 nm wavelenght.

In the future you probably also want to use 420 nm chip, with the "monster" solution you just incoperate them from the beginning - with the "gooseneck" solution you can add a bar with them along the backside of the aquarium.

This is my idea´s and if you take them, put them down together with your own idea´s (and other people´s as well) in a melting pot - I´m sure it will come out something good from this

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Hi guys, been running my LED system for a few months now and the tank is just looking amazing. I found a company from the USA who make superb heatsinks which are easily fitted out to look like a professional job, and not DIY!

Look up MakersLED and you'll be very impressed!! :)
 
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