Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I like the idea of an active cooling solution to compensate for the heat density. I imagine the monster size 100W Orphec is passive, thus the monster heatsink the size of Jay Leno's head.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
You will need to pull a vacuum on it first...
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Yes, high bay fixtures like the Orphek DIf 100 are way too big and way too heavy. This is the first actively cooled multichip I made over a year ago. I converted an Orphek DIF100 using a small horizontal cooler. It still works today.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I looked at the Orphek pendant the other day, side-by-side with a radion. I think they both sucked. The color of the Orphek was not so bad (no idea what its rating was) but I was not at all pleased with the visible output level or coverage. I would guess, by the way it looked, I would need (3) over a 75 to please my eye.
That may be why I am somewhat reluctant to accept a multi-emitter chip as an alternative to a pile of 3W emitters... I guess I just need to play with them in a DIY setting to get a feel for what I want to end up with.
That may be why I am somewhat reluctant to accept a multi-emitter chip as an alternative to a pile of 3W emitters... I guess I just need to play with them in a DIY setting to get a feel for what I want to end up with.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
The others are welcome to chime in here, but I find you can easily cover 3' x 3' with 90 or 120˚ optics and a 100w multi chip. Perhaps they had the light too close to the surface, as it should be 18-24" from the water.
sfsuphysics
Active member
The Kessil 350 unit attracted me simply because of it's size, about the size of a beer can with a foam cooler around it, which initially brought me into this thread to ask questions since someone mentioned a DIY was only $100 cheaper.
Apparently asked too many questions though since it seemed to have ruffled a few feathers.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I was very attracted to the A350 as well, and a few local guys have jumped on-board with them. While they appear to be a great value and growing coral, I am not sure they are what I am looking for.
bhazard451
New member
That size is its downfall if it is going to be used on a bigger tank. You would need around 3-4 of them over a 120 gallon, as it barely covers a 24" tank evenly with one of them. Anyone who says they use two for a 120 has some massively shaded areas in their tank that they don't want to admit to.
I don't believe they can be auto-dimmed via a controller either.
Only $100 bucks? Haha. Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Depends how high you mount them, the physical size of any single chip or "pendant" LED light is irrelevant, the optics are what give it (or reduce) the spread of the light.
And no they can't be auto-dimmed via a controller, if that's important to someone they shouldn't consider it. But not everyone needs an "accurate" intensity of the Sun throughout the day... I mean think to where people are coming from with halides, they were at 100% all the time.
Yes, high bay fixtures like the Orphek DIf 100 are way too big and way too heavy. This is the first actively cooled multichip I made over a year ago. I converted an Orphek DIF100 using a small horizontal cooler. It still works today.
Nice. What size is the fan? I like the fact that the radiator is oriented horizontally rather than vertically. What brand or model is the cooler?
sfsuphysics
Active member
Well some people enjoy working on these things regardless of the time it takes, and for them bravo... others there needs to be a decent amount of financial incentive to justify the effort to put into it. That is all I meant by it.
Don't worry about my feathers, I plucked them long ago, there did seem to be a bit of arguing that did stem from a comment or two I made even though I didn't directly get involved. That's all the feathers I saw flying around.
bhazard451
New member
Physical size of the cluster, spread, and height is absolutely relevant since you are dealing with one multichip cluster in a tight area. A 90 degree optic will provide the penetration, but two of them would have to be mounted very high to deliver any sort of usable PAR to the outer edges of a 120 gallon tank. It then also lowers the PAR overall since the light now has to travel farther.. unless you use enough of them to compensate. Kessil recommends 12 to 24" height, which I could never do over my tank.
I would need to see the PAR numbers of a Kessil, but a cheap chinese unit 6" off the water with optics could probably provide the same PAR numbers, spread, and dimming knobs at less than half the price. A 4 multichip build on here for a 75-85 gallon looked great, and a Kessil would not be able to match it.
To each their own though. Some people don't have the time/skill for DIY work, and a Kessil is the closest match to a multichip build on the market.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Not to any relevant degreee, unless there is a dust storm in your fish room.
The inverse square law explains the light distribution from a point source, meaning that the light is spread further as the distance from the point increases, but it is all still there. All in context that some small amount is refracted/absorbed, whatever by the molecules that make up the air and whatever is suspended in it.
Lassef
Member
When I first started to use this type of chip´s 1.5 years ago I was a little bit worried for the high temperature on the front of the chip. I considered a solution with air flowing in front of the chip but I ignored it and just let it be as it was. I have now run this fixtures for 1.5 years without any trouble.
Sincerely Lasse
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Not quite sure how to interpret your results from your tests... Ignoring the outer edge, what light is the most preferable to the eye?
