You can't compare these, most people use 2 blues to 1 white in diy builds which is why I think a 40% white 60% blues/uv is a good mix.
Bean: I tried adding turquoise/cyan and red to a build for a friend, and all it does is add a sickly cast to the tank. We keep them basically turned off, and I wish I had used more 420nm instead, it would have had far better effect. His light is 2:1 18000-20000k : 445nm Fedy, a 78" fixture with 198 emitters total. Otherwise everything in the tank looks great, nothing looks off or lacking in color but he doesn't have a lot of livestock yet.
The red/turq I used on his build was those OCW from led-group-buy, and I am very disappointed in them. I used 12 on his build (total 36 emitters) and they are the version with no optics. Everything just looks wrong.It's possible the culprit was mostly the cyan but the reds look off as well when that string is powered, even after allowing time for one's eyes to adjust..
Not as much as you think. While I'm a fan of warmer leds and use them in my current build, if you start using them in a 1:1 or 1:2 blue to white mix, your tank will look **** yellow, not white. Double the amount of blues are required to offset this into a 14k look. You could use a few less blues to bring it down to a 10k look. 3:2 Royal Blue to Neutral/Warm Whites with violets would most likely be the look you are trying to achieve.
You don't want UV either. 420nm actinic is much more beneficial than 405nm and lower nm leds. The florescence effect is almost tripled, and there is less of a chance of UV damage to coral.
As I said before - your tank will be rather blueMaglofster use more the ratio 1:1 during peak hours but a ratio around 2 blue to 1 white during "whatching time"
But test and prepare for adding some more whites if you not are satisfied.
Sincerely Lasse
Exactly.. build the diversity into the chip, so that ANY color rendering from yellowish to smurf pee can be dialed up. If, at the particular drive currents, the par or brightness is not high enough, then more chips can e added to the fixture.
The chips are in effect, point sources. I would rather add more point sources and avoid "disco" as opposed to adding supplimental emitters that will cause disco.
I would opt for 2A as well... it gives the option of toning down the blue more.
What type of "overlap" issues?
Once again -if you refer to bad quality in color rendering of some chip - you must refer to the manufactur of the complete chip because the same orginal LED (in this case Epistar) can be manufactured with different mix of phosphorus and therfore give different result depending of the vendor.
My experience comes from the AC-RC's chip and they give a good color rendering even at high K. They are not as blue as many who had not seen them in "real life" believe.
To add 6 500 K to this "super" chip I belive is a mistake and my belive is based on my experiences of this type of chip.
Personally, I would perhaps prefer 60 white (+ 10 000 K) and 40 RB if I would see it quite aesthetically but the point of this chip is to use the blue wavelengths that are optimal for photosynthesis in order to get a good growth. This means we need to have the 420, 445 and 455 nm and it is not entirely wrong to have with 430 nm as well. There will simply not be room for 60 white chip. If the current proposal (40 white and 60 blue) would be too blue for my taste, I will simply turn down the intensity of the blue during the hours I'm home and enjoy the aquarium. Other illumination time they have to go at 100% in order to stimulate growth.
Sincerely Lasse
Since you have experience with these can I order a 10 watt 10000K white and expect the same color from the 10000K channel in the 100 watt multichip?
Phycoerythrins ... 490nm, 546nm, 576nm ... in red algae and some
cyanobacteria
Phycocyanins .....
618nm ................. in some red algae
and
cyanobacteria
Allophycocyanins . 650nm .................
cyanobacteria and red algae
If it is the same vendor I think so. I have purcase around 40 pcs of 10 watts 10 - 20 000K the past 1.5 years and my eyes have not seen any differences between different batches. I presume it's the same manufacturer and that it is the same composition of the phosphor.
Sincerely Lasse
If it is the same vendor I think so. I have purcase around 40 pcs of 10 watts 10 - 20 000K the past 1.5 years and my eyes have not seen any differences between different batches. I presume it's the same manufacturer and that it is the same composition of the phosphor.
My opposition to 6500 K is much based on the following table.
I want to minimize these wavelengths as much as possible!
Sincerely Lasse
The phosphor coating thickness determines the Kelvin temperature. The phosphor coating is applied after die attachment. If 2 different whites are adjacent to each other overspray could affect the adjacent already coated phosphor thickness.
Bean- what is your ideal option? Based on 5 channels and 20 LEDs per channel.
Ron
While < 6500k looks great with my Crees, it does grow everything well, including some algae when my nutrients rise. The tradeoff is outstanding color that cannot be recreated with just cool whites.