Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[InDashMP3]

My cube is 24" deep, I'm running two 100W without lenses. The light penetrates all the way to the bottom. If you´re mostly going to go for softies I think you will be allright with 3x100W without lenses. If you need more focused light you can always add lenses later on.

Thanks a bunch! I started looking at the 100W chips, but then I started thinking (uh oh!). I have a brace that runs across the middle of the thank. Spacing the three 100w would have placed one right in the middle. Instead, I started to explore 4 50W chips? If I place two on each side spread evenly, would that work?

LT[ 9" (50w) 18" (50w) 18" (50w) 18" (50w) 9" ]RT

That would give me 200W vs the 300W, however, Couldn't I add a couple rows of 10W LEDs to get the additional light (if needed?)

LT[ 6" (10W) 12" (10W) 12" (10W) 12" (10W) 12" (10W) 12" (10W) 6" ]RT

I'd have two of those, (one on each side of the 50 W row).

 

[Tmoriarty]

Look at the rest of their chips, they have 50w chips that you can overdrive to 127w, giving you a potential total of 508w of power.

 

[Tmoriarty]

I think this will work with the different 100 watts chip, HLG-185-36b, but I have not tested it

Sincerely Lasse

I think that driver would work for the chips without being overdriven. If you wanted to increase the chips to their full potential then you would need a 7a (I think) driver.

 

[Tmoriarty]

to lasse,

I think that using UV LED's could be potentially harmful to your corals. I was researching it while deciding what colors to go with for my fixture. I orginally planned to add some 10w UV-a LED chips to make colors pop. From the article I have just read it is my impression that these wavelengths can actually dampen growth and color. While some colors may "pop" under UV lights, they will actually suffer some sort of damage or dampened growth under long term exposure. I thought I was post the article here for others to read.

http://www.aquarium-design.com/reef/uvlighting.html

 

[Lassef]

to lasse,

I think that using UV LED's could be potentially harmful to your corals. I was researching it while deciding what colors to go with for my fixture. I orginally planned to add some 10w UV-a LED chips to make colors pop. From the article I have just read it is my impression that these wavelengths can actually dampen growth and color. While some colors may "pop" under UV lights, they will actually suffer some sort of damage or dampened growth under long term exposure. I thought I was post the article here for others to read.

http://www.aquarium-design.com/reef/uvlighting.html

I know that and that is the reason why I have been careful to use "UV" LED. But from a photosynthetic point of view, there is a very interesting area of about 400 - 430 nm. To access this area with the conventional technique unfortunately means that you get with wavelengths below 400 nm that can be harmful. The advantage of LED wavelengths around 400 nm - 430 nm is that they operate in a narrow wavelength band (the peak plus or minus 20 nm), and the risk of shorter wavelengths is small. At the same time, insert all the strength of watts to these particular wavelengths that conventional techniques do not do might cause problems in itself. As an example if you have a chip that consumes 20 watts and the wavelength is 420 nm then all light energy coming in the wavelength range 400-440 nm approximately. If you instead had a fluorescent Actinic light at 21 watts, it is only a fraction in the wavelength range.

I ordered some LED of about 405 nm and 420 nm in order to do a test. They will be fully dimmable for safety.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[InDashMP3]

As I continue to plan out my layout for my 150, I am having a hard time finding a calculator to help with the LED beam cone. I'm trying to figure out how high/far apart/etc my LEDs need to be. Thinking of augmenting a 4 X 50W array with some 10W LEDs, but I want to ensure I get good spacing for complete coverage. Is the goal to get full spread at the water surface or XX inches below? (will determine how high to hang the fixture).

 

[panvel]

Hello everyone,

I am planning to built a new reef, I have a tank with dimensions 100cm(long)40cm(wide)60cm(depth). I have read the whole topic at once and also read severall other regarding led fixtures. The question is if the depth I have is deep enough for the 20W leds. The point is I have an aluminium board that it is ideal for the purpose I need it and I have plenty cpu coolers.
I was thinking to put 5 or 6 low wattage leds 10W or 20W and each have a heatsink above. This would be cost-effective for me because I dont need to buy new heatsinks.
What led fixtures would you suggest for my tank to house all the types of corals and what drivers?? Also the tank has in the middle a bar to hold the 2 glasses.
Thank you in advance for your time and help :wavehand:

Sincerely Panos

 

[Lassef]

Some pictures from some of my designs with 10-watt LED.

The first picture shows the basic construction. an aluminum plate of approximately 15 x 25 x 1.2 cm. The vertical line is 10 000 K chip, the first horizontal line is 16 000 K chip and the second horizontal row consists of Royal Blue chip, 455 nm.

Second picture shows the two modules when they are testing. The difference between 10 000 K and 16 000 K is evident.

The third picture shows my three modules over my 120 cm long aquarium. (47 ")

The fourth image shows a ramp consisting of 4 pieces of 10 000K, 4 pieces of 16 000K and 2 Royal Blue. All 10 watts. In addition, 10 pcs 3 watt Cree Royal Blue. All with lenses

Here is all royal blue's on. Distance between the LED and the table is about 20 cm (7.8 ")

All light on

All lenses 90 degree

I wrote earlier about a card driver as one of our members in the Swedish marine site have constructed. It is a card that can take up to 16 x 6 pieces 3 watt Cree or 16 x 2 pieces 10 Watt (with some special methods, it can handle 8 x 2 pieces of 20 Watt, too). It's also handle combinations thereof.
Each part can handle a total Forward Voltage at about 23.5 V and maximum current is 1000mA (Two parallel connected may handle 2000 mA).

Along with the card are two complementary card. Either one can plug in a controller that translates a 1-10 V signal and which has additional settings as delay and other settings. You can also select a control card that contains four separate, adjustable time programs. These can then be further varied.

Everything is supplied with 5 V DC (control cards) and up to 24 V DC (driver adapter). 4 driver card can be connected to one controller.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[bigguyuk]

Hi Lasse
so you just used aluminium plate
did you have fans on top ? and how did it do for heat
kind regards
Simon

 

[007Bond]

Hi Lasse
On your bigger ramp, what are you using for your heatsink? It must be hollow as I see fans on the top. Also what is the splash guard? Thanks---Rick

 

[Tmoriarty]

Very clean lasse. The example you show lets me know exactly how the light will spread with the 90 degree lens, which is good. It has actually got me to think I should not use the lenses on my build (even though my tank is 30 inches deep). i am still considering buying the lenses but not using the glass lens portion, just the reflector.

Also for anyone buying these, I contacted AC-RC and they said they couldn't give me a bulk buy deal but could give me a couple extra 20w LED chips for free if I bought a decent number of goods from them. Just something to keep in mind.

Next step is to order my heatsinks.... go to harbor freight and buy a brake to bend some sheet metal, and build a case to house these chips . I am quite excited at the potential here.

As far as the UV levels you are talking about lasse you are completly correct. As long as you can ensure the BINS you receive are not actually lower. I looked at some of the UV multichips and you have to ask them for specific BIN lots to ensure you get the right spectrum.

 

[Lassef]

Hi Lasse
so you just used aluminium plate
did you have fans on top ? and how did it do for heat
kind regards
Simon

Yes and Yes. It works well. I have about 80 watts per module, and the graphics cooler I am using is able to maintain the temperature at 35 ° C (95 F). Here is how the module looks like on the top

Hi Lasse
On your bigger ramp, what are you using for your heatsink? It must be hollow as I see fans on the top. Also what is the splash guard? Thanks---Rick
Yesterday 08:09 PM

It looks like this

The splashguard is normal acrylic

Sincerely Lasse

 

[GY2202]

Hi Lasse,

I finally Purchase my 20pcs of 10watts multichip LED with the following combination;

6000k-7000k (5pcs)
10000k-15000k (5pcs)
Royal Blue 455-465nm (5pcs)
Royal Blue 460-470nm (5pcs)

At this stage no lenses...

Just incase i will need some lenses, do you have a link for the lenses that you are using?

Hopefully the color combination that i have chosen will do the job.

P.S>

I can also get a Royal Blue with 445-450nm but double the price of other 2 royal blue

 

[windowlicker916]

Has anyone posted various data on PAR on these in water at various depths?

I seem to remember reading this post previously and some PAR data was taken but it was air only so the readings were over 1000 PAR.

 

[windowlicker916]

Has anyone posted various data on PAR on these in water at various depths?

I seem to remember reading this post previously and some PAR data was taken but it was air only so the readings were over 1000 PAR.

 

[dannym]

Hi


How many multichips do you think i would need for a tank of the following dimensions

length= 33"
Width=18"
Height=19"

about 45 gallons

i was thinking

2x 50W 10000K-14000K Cool White Led Lamp + 50Watt Waterproof Driver
2x %0W Royal Blue High Power LED Lamp + 1pc 50Watt Waterproof AC Driver

What do you think?

 

[acabgd]

I also went the same route a little while ago with a single 20W CB+RB ComboLED over my 7g nano.

I don't want to hijack the thread, just to post a few photos.

Mounted on PC CPU heatsink

Over the tank

And now for the best... Photos of growth using this single 20W combo LED. First photos were taken on March 15, the second ones on April 1. Might not seem like much, but it's only 2 weeks and I also had a couple of days without lights due to cyano (my tank was less than 2 months old). However, I am impressed with my Acan Lord which is growing new heads!

 

[Lassef]

Has anyone posted various data on PAR on these in water at various depths?

I seem to remember reading this post previously and some PAR data was taken but it was air only so the readings were over 1000 PAR.

100 watts chip see #164. 10 cm above the surface, lens 60 degree. 10 cm below watersurface PAR 1500, 30 cm below watersurface PAR 1000 and 45 cm below the surface PAR 650.

With the 10 watts without lenses just under the modules PAR 900, 50 cm down - PAR 200. With lense much better

Sincerely Lasse

@ GY2202: Probably, I should take att least one or two 445 also.

 

[Tmoriarty]

I can also get a Royal Blue with 445-450nm but double the price of other 2 royal blue

The only reason the ones you are looking at are more expensive is because you can overdrive them to 127w each. They are 2.5w LED's on the multichip vice 1w leds.

The price for the normal 50w chips is around 50$ the price for the overdrive ones is around 80$, but then again it is worth 2 of the normal ones (and will penetrate deeper without lenses).

I poked around their site more and asked some more questions, AC-RC sells multichips from two different manufacturers. epileds, and epistar. From most of the leds, the epistar ones are able to be overdriven. I am sure they achieve max life at the lower values (the ones they show them for) but at least you know they are capable of being overdriven.

For my use I would like them so that i can overdrive the LEDS for a couple hours a day to similate noon light. Hope this helps people when looking at the different LEDS.

 

[Tmoriarty]

Also not that anyone cares, but the Epileds are actually sold by that company as outdoor misc lighting. They are not specifically designed for our reef use (although I am sure they work as they are the right wavelength).

I am still in search of a company overseas that will custom some wavelengths for me.