Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Hi all this is a great thread. Read it twice trying to figure out how to select a driver to slightly overdrive the 100 watt hybrid leds that have been posted. Please correct me if im wrong. The FV of this led is 32-36v and just say I want to push it at 5 amps...I would run the led at 180 watts? If that's correct then I could potentially run 4 100 watt leds at 5 amps off one driver with 36 v and 20 amps? Or 2 drivers the same but with 10 amps? Then all 4 would be running 180 watts? Im more mechanically inclined than electrically and this looks like the future of reef lighting so I want to get a decent understanding of how to figure the driver size. Thanks a bunch!
 
Ugh...I am in information overload...TMI! After reading the info in the two links GY2202 posted has my head spinning. From the first link the article suggests running 50K, 14K, and a 6.5K leds and 420nm and 465 - 485 nm blue. On the other hand, I really like the results of Phasezero's build in this thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2151584&highlight=phasezero

I am going to have to draw the line somewhere and start building...
 
Sonny n Colleen said:
Ugh...I am in information overload...TMI! After reading the info in the two links GY2202 posted has my head spinning. From the first link the article suggests running 50K, 14K, and a 6.5K leds and 420nm and 465 - 485 nm blue. On the other hand, I really like the results of Phasezero's build in this thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2151584&highlight=phasezero

I am going to have to draw the line somewhere and start building...
Click to expand...

try 4 or 5 threads lol head is in a shed lol

but some good info out there
 
Hey guys, I have been lurking around this thread for awhile trying to figure it out without asking, well I failed, lol.

I have a 90 gallon tank, 48 inches long by 24 inches deep. I am thinking about going with two modules, due to the euro brace. Each module will have 1x50w 10,000k chip and 6x10w RB chips. That will be220 watts for my tank. Do you think this will be sufficient to grow all types of coral.

Do you think I should use more 10w chips?

Thanks for looking, I will work on drivers and heatsinks later after I get a handle on the leds
 
Dan, using the 3W chip formula, which is LxW/16 would come out to 54 3W leds or 162W of light. For higher lighting with this formula use a lower multiple say 14 or 13. Either way you look to have plenty of light. You should think of setting up your build with dimming to control the amount of light your build will be capable of putting out.---Rick
 
So this is a very interesting concept and I really like the 100w chip idea as a I have a 3' (1m) deep tank that I am setting up. I also like the spectrum range that the orphek chip is trying to acheive so I took the suggestion and emailed one of the ebay vendors mentioned in the thread. They said they can create a 100w chip with all of the orphek colors that were listed but asked a very good question. What ratio should each of the colors hold? Does anyone know or have a suggestion based on experience?
 
I'm sorry that I have not answered all the questions yet because I have been busy elsewhere.

@ InADream: Most likely, this works fine. Personally I would use the lenses of 50 watts, but not at 10 watts. Perhaps I had chosen around 16 000 K on the 50 watts.

@ reefer859: You can use the driver but will only get between 41-43 watts from the chip (depending on whether it is Epistar or Epiled) Watch for drivers who have been around 1.7 A constant current if you want more power. Epistar can be run up to 3.5 A.

@ DrawnToBeaches: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103055 as an example. Google is your friend :)

How your design will depend on you and your requirements for the light - it's really hard to come up with a manual "How to light your tank." Most LED solutions meet the biological requirements, they usually end up with too much light, being able to dim is a good feature.

@ Tfrizz80: This is difficult. You proposes to use a constant voltage driver. Personally, I prefer the LED driver to power LEDs that are based on constant current. With constant voltage is needed a lot more electronics knowledge and you get to work with parallel and fine-tuning of V's to avoid current surges. In an LED that is not the relationship between voltage and current linearly but a very small change of the desired voltage may cause a large current rise. In my opinion, is it better to work with drivers that provide a constant current and varying voltage of instead. And then it's serial connection that apply in the first place. Then you never get a higher amperage than LEDs can handle (provided you are within the given volt range).

But earlier in this thread, there is a building described based on constant voltage and parallel connections and with adequate knowledge and caution, it works well.

@ ShipWreck2: A chip with all the important wavelengths is probably the future and are certainly reality within a year or two. Unfortunately I do not know in what ratio you should have between the different wavelengths, and I also have no experience of it. Did I know how the perfect chip should be, I would not sit here and give you free advice for in that case I would have a profitable business :)

@ eznoops: Which type of chip you asking for? 1, 3, 10, 20, 50 or what watt :)

Sincerely Lasse
 
What driver do u suggest for 1 100 watt hybrid? Is there one that will run 2? I would like dimmable ones and to have the ability to overdrive them to at least 180 watts. My tank is 30 inches deep.
 
Hi

I have not tested but Meanwell have some drivers that are at least dimmable to a certain extent. I think of HLG series - for example, HLG - 240H - 42

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lassef,

I am in the infant stages of building a 2600g tank and have planned on doing doing a custom LED lighting system for it. The tank will be about 5ft deep though I probably won't keep any corals more than 48" from the surface. That said, there will be areas where the corals would be closer to 24" from the surface therefore I plan on arranging LED lights so that there are higher wattage chips for more penetration in deeper areas and lower wattage for those rock areas closer to the surface.

The issue at hand for me is chosing the correct color temp for this application. One thing that is paramount for me is avoiding the cool white washed out look so I was hoping to start with something in the 6500K K range for a slightly warmer color. All I saw were 10K and up...I thought i saw something in this thread speaking to the ability to have the K temp customized. Any thoughts on this?
 
Hello Lassef,

I have been reading this thread on multichip and I have a red sea max 130 that I plan on modding the hood with a heatsink and multichip LED's.

Need some help on what might work. Also since this will be modded into hood I dont think optics would work correct?

First off is the heatsink for retro into hood
http://www.modularled.ca/20-x-4-2-heatsink-red-sea-max-130/

Second is the following multichip 20w would 2 be sufficant for some sps?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20W-Super-A...422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b9d36ee

Third is drivers, would 2 of the following work well with dimming 2 20w led's?
http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-eln-60-27p-dimmable-driver/

link removed.

Really any suggestions would help.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
An impressive construction! What started my experiments with multi-chip with high wattage was thinking about a project with the same depth at my job. With my little experience at the moment so I think it is possible to at least have soft corals, buttons or discs at these depths. Possibly it means the chip that you can get up to 250 watts mean even stony corals possible to have at a depth of 1 meter (3.28 ft) or more.

The problem with the color temperature is not great - there are plenty of multichip around 6000 K. Here are some examples: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPISTAR-50W...100?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337165fbcc, http://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-White-...424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b617de0, and http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-White-...595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b611ce3.

If you start with this and runs it with a Mean Well HLG-320H-48 or similar, you can complement both with whites in higher color temperatures and the Royal Blues. Optionally also red LED. Do you also make the whole construction dimmable, then you can bring out the light picture you want.

However, I think it is important from a growth standpoint to have a lot of light in the wavelengths between 420 and 460 nm, especially where there are corals that require low light intensity.

Good luck with your experiment and please, provide feedback your experiences to us via this thread


Sincerely Lasse
 
Hey guys,

I have been evaluating my future LED setup. I have a 48" x 18" x 24" tank and will be using 2x50W LEDs and 12x 10W LEDs..

LEDS:

2x50W 16000K Chips

12x10W RB Chips

Drivers:

for the 50W chips I am thinking about using the driver below and running the chips is Parallel.

LED Driverhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/85-265VAC-100W-Dimmable-LED-driver-30-36V-3A-/220940289359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337111454f

As for the 10W drivers I am thinking about using the Meanwell 48D driver, is this a good driver and how many will I need.

This is all I have right now,

Thanks,
 
Thanks for the info! I plan on trying to keep the aquascape open yet do so in a way the uses most of the depth of the tank so I think I would only need 50% 100+ watters with the rest 50 watts. With a tank this size, directed lighting would be the most efficient means to light the tank since the actual top down lit dimensions are 6x12...My plan is to start with a mix of 6-6.5k and 10k and once i get the coverage I want without any spot lighting I'll start adding in blues/actinics/other colors until I get the total color I'm looking for. Fortunately, I prefer a nice pure white as opposed to bluer tanks...
 
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