Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

fsugmoney said:
What is the best thing to use to keep the new 100 watt dreamchip cool...I want heat to never be an issue for me... What does everyone recommend? From previous build I have a 8x8 heatsink with fan, but I know I'll need something more than that for the new 100 watt driven more like 200...thanks
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Just now, I´m testing an older graphic cooler from Arctic Cooling (Accelero Xtreme series) with the dream chip

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I have tested it around 1200 mA/each channel and it works rather well. Do not exceed 60 degree C in any way - around 50 - 53 C with all channels running at 1200 mA (with exception - the actinic channel 950 mA).

Sincerely Lasse
 
This is my 2 x 50watt multiled DIY Project..
I am using a Computer Fan/temp Controller wich uses a build-in Loud buzzer.
Buzzer start beeping when fan stop working or temp rises

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mr.wilson said:
How are you affixing the lens and reflector?
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Probably with 2 components Epoxy. It works but you have to be very carefully and have a steady hand. Instant glue does not work very well. Absolutely no glue on the surface that covers the LED. As normally I speak of own experiences :angryfire:<O:p</O:p




Another issue:

<O:p</O:p
I has tested the Dream Chip in full power now. You was right that the absent of 470 nm should not make the Dream Chip very blue. With my eyes (old man eyes) it's difficult to get a pure blue colour with the chip. But I have never seen a white light as crispy as this before. It is better than I dreamed of. Several reefers here in Sweden that have started their Dream Chips has the same impressions. I have not have the abilities to put the light above my main aquarium yet - has only test over a nano at 27 l (calm down - I´m only run at 140 mA -> app 20 W) If I get up to 180 watt - the light out from that aquarium will nearly dazzle you :) I have only a brown gorgonia in this aquarium so I still do not know about "the pop" ability of this chip - but it will come.

The different wavelengths blend together very well - no chance of "disco".

The reason for not using the 460 - 480 range was that I had a wish that I want to fill up the 410 - 460 nm range as much as possible. The fact that 470-480 is a "industry standard" strengthened my belief even more, it was already tested :).

When the Dream Chip has been tested of more people - maybe one might conclude that it can go with just one white channel for those who want a deep blue color in the aquarium but for me - its perfect as it is now. According to red reflection (enough of red wavelengths) it also looks very good. The choice that not use low Kelvin degree LED´s was a wise decision as I can see the result now.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lasse. I'm ordering a dream chip and need help with the drivers. I want them all to be dimmable. Which ones should I order and are you putting a lens on this and I so what degree?
 
Lassef said:
I has tested the Dream Chip in full power now. You was right that the absent of 470 nm should not make the Dream Chip very blue. With my eyes (old man eyes) it’s difficult to get a pure blue colour with the chip. But I have never seen a white light as crispy as this before. It is better than I dreamed of. Several reefers here in Sweden that have started their Dream Chips has the same impressions. I have not have the abilities to put the light above my main aquarium yet - has only test over a nano at 27 l (calm down - I´m only run at 140 mA -> app 20 W) If I get up to 180 watt - the light out from that aquarium will nearly dazzle you :) I have only a brown gorgonia in this aquarium so I still do not know about "the pop" ability of this chip - but it will come.
Click to expand...

It is a long process to evaluate a multichip. The results range for each size/depth of tank. I also find that what looks great for a reef tank full of colourful corals doesn't always look good with a new or stark tank. One universal factor is that mutichips have the same type of shimmer as MH, but offer the flexibility of lens selection.

If/when you decide to add red to your dream chip, you enter into a whole new realm of colour mixing issues. You need enough strong blue to keep the red from dominating, but the payoff is worth it. I have very blue lights at my shop so the pink corals (stylopora, pocillipora & seriatopora) look dull. When I use a multichip with red light, they really pop. You will get some of the warm colours with your 10,000K white, but not to the same extent.
 
I'm happy to hear that you achieved such a nice white light! That is exactly what I am looking for and will be interested in getting your impressions of it over corals...
 
If you want a nice crisp white light, buy a standard 10-16k multichip and save a fortune on drivers and specialized chip mixes.
 
mr.wilson said:
If/when you decide to add red to your dream chip, you enter into a whole new realm of colour mixing issues. You need enough strong blue to keep the red from dominating, but the payoff is worth it. I have very blue lights at my shop so the pink corals (stylopora, pocillipora & seriatopora) look dull. When I use a multichip with red light, they really pop. You will get some of the warm colours with your 10,000K white, but not to the same extent.
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Red 660nm itself really does make everything pop, especially fish. Using a low K white with a considerable amount of red in it doesn't even provide the same pop. I would considered a small amount of 660nm essential for any build to get really nice color.
 
mr.wilson said:
If you want a nice crisp white light, buy a standard 10-16k multichip and save a fortune on drivers and specialized chip mixes.
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I have run all of the K from 10 000 to 20 000 of the multi chips in a tank without yellow substances - they are all yellow as pee compared with this mix that I was able to adjust here. I have run the hybrid chips - to blue for me. In the small tank I test - I have natural sunlight coming in during daytime - the colour rendering is nearly the same - no problem with red on fishes.

The red wavelengths in the white chips is from both 10 000 k and 16 000 K is enough for the natural colour rendering of red reflecting colours in fish but of course - if you take pure red wavelengths to light up my white skin - it will look like the cheeks of a teenager boy at his first date with a beautiful girl but thats not a natural colour :).

You need enough strong blue to keep the red from dominating, but the payoff is worth it.
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For me the question is - what was first - the hen or the egg? If I achieve the same result without mixing in any strong monochrome sources that need to compensate each other - its fine for me.

But be sure - the advantages or disadvantages of mixing in red channels will also be tested because there are far more applications for a dream chip with a red channel than just reef aquariums.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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reefer859 said:
Lasse. I'm ordering a dream chip and need help with the drivers. I want them all to be dimmable. Which ones should I order and are you putting a lens on this and I so what degree?
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A Dream Chip is build for five drivers so I recommend this. It is possible to use 3 drivers (the white parallel together, the two RB parallel together and the actinic for itself. you should not exceed 2200 mA for the parallel connected white channels, the same for the RB channels and not more than 1400 mA for the lonely actinic channel.

If you chose 5 drivers the popular mean well driver ELN-60-48 (D or P - D= dim by 1-10 V signal and P= dim by PWM) works well. With that you can also adjust the current a bit with an internal pot. Max 1300 mA.

Which type of tank do you have? Width, length and depth?

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lassef said:
I have run all of the K from 10 000 to 20 000 of the multi chips in a tank without yellow substances - they are all yellow as pee compared with this mix that I was able to adjust here. I have run the hybrid chips - to blue for me.
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I have a 12k 50w on my 27g cube and it's almost perfect, if there was just a touch more blue it would be what I want to look at

a 2:1 white:blue ratio would probably be what I want, but these still single color and hybrid still lack the uv/red that the dreamchip gives, and the adjustability
 
Lasse - thanks for the advice. This will be for a 120 gallon 48x24x24 tank. It's for a future build. I have a 65g 48x18x18 with 2 50w hybrid and you know how it goes. I'm ready for a bigger tank
 
Lassef said:
If you chose 5 drivers the popular mean well driver ELN-60-48 (D or P - D= dim by 1-10 V signal and P= dim by PWM) works well. With that you can also adjust the current a bit with an internal pot. Max 1300 mA.
Click to expand...

I used ELN60-48P x 5 for my build I currently have mine limited to 500ma/channel and started the light at 20% white / 30% blue on PWM control.. I forget if I measured the current at the 20/30% level but it's not a whole lot... 150ma at 20% I think. 11% PWM is the lowest it will light up at - I forget the current but it's pretty low. Setting the current limit lower does decrease the power at minimum too. Sometimes I wish I'd set it to 350ma max current but it's a fair bit of work.
 
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