Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

On these multichips (20w from acrc), where is the best place to solder your wire? The star type chips have a solder spot. These 20w have bars protruding. Is the entire bar on each side either positive or negative? Does the location of the solder point affect the led function.

Also, the chip looks to be mounted on a metal plate. (I am still awaiting my chips, they got hung up in New York with Sandy.) Would it be okay to mount the multchip onto a heatsink that has a 4mm channel that would be open under the chip? I think it will actually be over two channels but they are 14mm apart.
 
On these multichips (20w from acrc), where is the best place to solder your wire? The star type chips have a solder spot. These 20w have bars protruding. Is the entire bar on each side either positive or negative? Does the location of the solder point affect the led function.

Also, the chip looks to be mounted on a metal plate. (I am still awaiting my chips, they got hung up in New York with Sandy.) Would it be okay to mount the multchip onto a heatsink that has a 4mm channel that would be open under the chip? I think it will actually be over two channels but they are 14mm apart.


The bars is either plus or negative. You can sold there or at the plate near them in the white plastic. If you are going to use a reflector and a lens - connect at the bars because the reflectors conduct electricity. You can also do as I have done here with the middle chip

attachment.php


Question 2

I really do not know, normally you need all contact area to transfer the heat, but if you have a large heat sink with fast transfer of heat - it maybe works but I had "think twicee" before.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>446</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 15pt" height=20><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 15pt; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 height=20 align=right>1120</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>120</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>99</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>64</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; 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BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>109</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>64</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>116</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>123</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid" class=xl68 align=right>533</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 15pt" height=20><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; 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New measurement. Now I test with that distance that I will have in my aquarium. The "all" channel is the sum of all 5. I have also measured the total and it is nearly the same as calculated. It is easy to see that if you want a special PAR at the bottom - let us say 200 - you are able to mix very much - its easy to mix the look you want and still have a good quality of light

Sincerly Lasse
 
is it safe to run 1400ma through each channel like that? isnt that something near 250 watts?

I´m testing and I carefully control the temperature. 60 degree C at the backplate is the limit. After around 1 hour the temperature has arise to 54 degree C. I´m not going to run as high as this (i do not need that) but someone has to test the limits of the chip. My cooler does a good work.

Sincerly Lasse
 
if it's gonna overheat it'll do it in a couple min, at least that's how computer heatsinks work, it's not like a big chunk of aluminum that soaks

I'm not sure what I will do yet, my current pendant is great, but running enough wires for a 5 channel chip & fan in a pendant setup is gonna get complicated
 
Part of the cooler

attachment.php



The driver card (5 drivers)

attachment.php


Timer and controller card

attachment.php


I´m going to mont the driver card and the controller at the cooler and only have 2 cables in. 35 V DC and 5 V DC.

Sincerely Lasse
 
I am running a pendant, similar to an Ecoxotic or kessil, getting 10 wires for the led, 2 for a fan, and 2 for a temp monitor is going to be a challenge

I also am sticking with a cpu style heatsink, they are not so wide

I use this currently with a 50w 14k led

intel not inside

IMG_1136-L.jpg
 
megadeth: Those intel coolers are excellent, I especially like the ones with the curved but not split fins and a copper core.. I've used a bunch of them making white multichip fixtures for freshwater tanks. If you get ones with the foxconn or delta fans they are super quiet.. I had a set with nidec fans and they needed a 12v 2A supply to even start (one at a time!) and wouldn't start at all to under volted.

I'd say that the intel coolers like these, in general are going to be good to 100w chips but may get on the warm side depending on which specific cooler you have. There _is_ a difference between some of them, despite the similarities.
 
megadeth: Those intel coolers are excellent, I especially like the ones with the curved but not split fins and a copper core.. I've used a bunch of them making white multichip fixtures for freshwater tanks. If you get ones with the foxconn or delta fans they are super quiet.. I had a set with nidec fans and they needed a 12v 2A supply to even start (one at a time!) and wouldn't start at all to under volted.

I'd say that the intel coolers like these, in general are going to be good to 100w chips but may get on the warm side depending on which specific cooler you have. There _is_ a difference between some of them, despite the similarities.

Hi Tom,...are you still using the 8900, and is it still maintaining a safe temp for you?---Rick
 
megadeth: Those intel coolers are excellent, I especially like the ones with the curved but not split fins and a copper core.. I've used a bunch of them making white multichip fixtures for freshwater tanks. If you get ones with the foxconn or delta fans they are super quiet.. I had a set with nidec fans and they needed a 12v 2A supply to even start (one at a time!) and wouldn't start at all to under volted.

I'd say that the intel coolers like these, in general are going to be good to 100w chips but may get on the warm side depending on which specific cooler you have. There _is_ a difference between some of them, despite the similarities.

what's the part number for the ones with delta or foxconn fans?

MIne all have copper core, I was careful making sure they were not the older solid aluminum versions
 
Part of the cooler


The driver card (5 drivers)

Timer and controller card

I´m going to mont the driver card and the controller at the cooler and only have 2 cables in. 35 V DC and 5 V DC.

Sincerely Lasse


Lasse

Do you have a link to the datasheet or webpage to that driver? it Look very nice i think... and maybe i can use it to :fun2:


Christian
 
While there seems to be about a million of them, let's refrain from posting ebay links. They've never been allowed. Also links to other forums with group buys.
 
While there seems to be about a million of them, let's refrain from posting ebay links. They've never been allowed. Also links to other forums with group buys.

Ok, sorry.

I just not seen any with 5 drivers in 1 unit and with a ethernet connection.

I have to try find it another place then.


Regards
Christian
 
Hi Tom,...are you still using the 8900, and is it still maintaining a safe temp for you?---Rick

Yes but it's hardly a fair comparison given how far the shill chip is dimmed over my 12. I'd run it up to full blast to check again but it's not such an easy task since I have adjusted the current limit on the drivers.

what's the part number for the ones with delta or foxconn fans?

MIne all have copper core, I was careful making sure they were not the older solid aluminum versions

Er, I forget, let me check some things .. I don't have them here right this second but I bought a bunch (20?) that were packed with xeon 3400 chips, they have the copper core and the delta fans. But I can't remember if they had the non-bifurcated fins or not. I do know the split fin version is MUCH easier to find.

The all aluminum version is still current; it's sold with celeron chips.
 
The Zaman 8900 series is a good cooler. I used to use the older 8700 series. This comparison chart shows cooling ability and noise level. The 8700 ranks low on the list, but it is a compact model going up against some large and noisy heat sinks. I went with the Tuniq Tower 120 because it was one of the highest rated for cooling while it still has low noise readings. I also like that the fan is concealed in the fins so you can't get your fingers bitten.

Zalman 8700 scored 19.5˚c @ 125w with 48.1 dBA noise level. I like the models with the blue LED in the fan so you have an extra indicator that the fan hasn't failed... and it looks freaky :) These fans usually have PWM speed control so you can dial it down to the right cooling & ambient noise at each level of illumination/heat.

A lot of the better designs have the cooling contact on an awkward side or position so tat rules them out. One benefit of a larger finned unit is that you have some leeway if/when the fan fails. Of course a double fan system gives you that fail safe, but they are noisy, bulky and expensive. You need to leave room for wiring, venting, suspension/mounting system, lens & reflector mounting and finger & dust guards. These requirements eliminate a lot of the CPU coolers on the list.

You will notice as you get to the less efficient models at the bottom of the list, they resemble the standard fin & fan heat sinks that we are used to seeing in the DIY LED builds.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2525&page=4
 
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