Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[nettraptor]

So this is my setup , i added a fan conroller to check the fans

and now compare those two photos

2 x 50watt LEDS

2 x 150watt HQI

 

[nettraptor]

How are you affixing the lens and reflector?

i fix the lens & reflector with a high temp silicone glue

 

[FDAWG]

http://download.aquasparx.com/ClientSoftware/LMB1/publish.htm

 

[mr.wilson]

i fix the lens & reflector with a high temp silicone glue

Thank you. That makes it easier to replace in the future than epoxy. I use high heat silicone to cover the solder on the multichip to insulate the metal reflector.

 

[Lassef]

Lasse

Do you have a link to the datasheet or webpage to that driver? it Look very nice i think... and maybe i can use it to :fun2:


Christian

While there seems to be about a million of them, let's refrain from posting ebay links. They've never been allowed. Also links to other forums with group buys.

No worry - this is not a Y-yyy product. It is a guy in Sweden that develop this for the 5 channel Dream Chip or other chip that need up to 36 V in FV (or a daisy chain up to 36 V FV) and max 1400 mA (as present). I´m just now doing a Beta test of the construction. It is not a real ethernet connection - he just use that standard for communication between two cards

[violation]
I hope it is allowed to link to the Swedish forum.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SeaMonkey4]

Hi Lasse,

Thank you for your reply.

I got my chips today too! My, they are tiny! I still have a way to go before I start to build. I am sure I will have more questions.

This is an awesome group here and I am very glad to have found you all. The information is incredible. Although some goes right over my head, I am learning SO much.

Thank you to ALL of you.

 

[007Bond]

The Zaman 8900 series is a good cooler. I used to use the older 8700 series. This comparison chart shows cooling ability and noise level. The 8700 ranks low on the list, but it is a compact model going up against some large and noisy heat sinks. I went with the Tuniq Tower 120 because it was one of the highest rated for cooling while it still has low noise readings. I also like that the fan is concealed in the fins so you can't get your fingers bitten.

Zalman 8700 scored 19.5˚c @ 125w with 48.1 dBA noise level. I like the models with the blue LED in the fan so you have an extra indicator that the fan hasn't failed... and it looks freaky These fans usually have PWM speed control so you can dial it down to the right cooling & ambient noise at each level of illumination/heat.

A lot of the better designs have the cooling contact on an awkward side or position so tat rules them out. One benefit of a larger finned unit is that you have some leeway if/when the fan fails. Of course a double fan system gives you that fail safe, but they are noisy, bulky and expensive. You need to leave room for wiring, venting, suspension/mounting system, lens & reflector mounting and finger & dust guards. These requirements eliminate a lot of the CPU coolers on the list.

You will notice as you get to the less efficient models at the bottom of the list, they resemble the standard fin & fan heat sinks that we are used to seeing in the DIY LED builds.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2525&page=4

MR WILSON, Are the 8900 fans replaceable if they should fail? At various sellers I don't see replacement fans for sale.---Rick

 

[mr.wilson]

MR WILSON, Are the 8900 fans replaceable if they should fail? At various sellers I don't see replacement fans for sale.---Rick

The fan would not be easily replaced by a standard fan unless you took it apart and adapted it to the Zalman perpendicular mounting bracket. It's a good quality double bearing fan that should last a long time. The price is low enough for the whole cooler that you could have one as a backup fan. The larger CPU coolers can likely cool a 100w chip without the fan should it fail.

Fans are one of the weak links with multichip fixtures. Salt creep and moisture is the major concern. There are a lot of LED arrays on the market that have PCBs and drivers that are exposed to humidity and salt splashes. I don't think they will last more than three years in that kind of environment. Most multichip fixtures use water resistant drivers and silicone seals around the lenses. Running the drivers remote from the fixture is also a good idea. Running drivers onboard will dramatically shorten the life of the drivers, unless they are rated for outdoor use.

Adding a temp sensor that shuts off the light is always a good investment. Some fixtures like Radion dim the light when the max (warning) temp is reached.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I am rather curious as to how the Kessil pendants are going to hold up (even if I don't care for their spectral output). They are certainly nice and small compared to the monster (size and ugliness) passively cooled Orphec cannons.

 

[007Bond]

Thanks MR WILSON. I'm leaning towards the 8900 because my situation requires a low profile. A backup 8900 makes sense.

 

[mr.wilson]

I am rather curious as to how the Kessil pendants are going to hold up (even if I don't care for their spectral output). They are certainly nice and small compared to the monster (size and ugliness) passively cooled Orphec cannons.

The vapour cooler technology of the Kessil appears to be limited to 50w max.

 

[rkesling]

Yes phosphor mixing is a major concern. They cannot do single rows of white LEDs and they need to space the chip out to keep the phosphors away from the other rows of LEDs. This is why I opted for a three channel (RWB) chip with 5 colours. It doesn't have 5 channels of control, but it has three colour groups instead of two (WB).

Testing chips is tough. I played around with about 5 different multichips before committing to a new design for 16 of them for my shop. At the time, multiple channels wasn't available and the chips turned out to be too violet/red with not enough blues. I had to scrap all 16 of them but fortunately the manufacturer gave me a full credit.

This thread has been held back by the group buy, and when anyone tries to point it out, they are called a "troll". Any of my suggestions that did not conform with the group buy chip were shot down. Once that chip ship had set sail, all other information became obsolete in a desperate buying frenzy.

Were you able to find the information for us Mr. Wilson? Really interested in these chips. Thanks!

 

[mr.wilson]

Were you able to find the information for us Mr. Wilson? Really interested in these chips. Thanks!

The chips I use in my shop are from Orphek. They are single channel.

 

[rkesling]

The chips I use in my shop are from Orphek. They are single channel.

what about the 3 channel 5 color chips? Who makes those?

 

[tomservo]

Thanks MR WILSON. I'm leaning towards the 8900 because my situation requires a low profile. A backup 8900 makes sense.

Based on the way the fan mounts it is do-able to replace it with a modified 92mm fan, I saw a thread on this somewhere but I can't seem to find it.

I am rather curious as to how the Kessil pendants are going to hold up (even if I don't care for their spectral output). They are certainly nice and small compared to the monster (size and ugliness) passively cooled Orphec cannons.

I've always wondered this too, the fan in those things is tiny and we all know how long 40-50mm fans last...

 

[Lassef]

@ tomservo: With your lenses, do you get any division of the channels that are visible in the water? You write earlier - no disco - is it still so?

Sincerely Lasse

 

[nettraptor]

hello there i have this driver

Linking to eBay is not permitted.

is there any way that i can use a electronic device or a mechanic device that make it dim automatically first low after some time middle > max > middle >low ?

 

[Lassef]

I do not know any way to do this, unless you get a mechanical device that can turn the pot up or down. Maybe there is a possibility to do an "electronical" pot also.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[TropTrea]

hello there i have this driver




is there any way that i can use a electronic device or a mechanic device that make it dim automatically first low after some time middle > max > middle >low ?

Yes it can be done however your looking at a considerable amount of home building of electronic circuits. The pot used for your driver is a 22M Ohm pot so it would have to be subatuded with a series of probably 4 5.5m ohm resistors and solid state relays that would controled by a controler to put them into or out of the circuit. Unless your well versed in electronic design I think it may be less expensive to switch to a Voltage controled driver.

If you had the schematic for the driver itself it should also be possible to modify it removing the 22 meg ohm circuit and converting it to a voltage controled circuit. But again I would not put this into the average novices range of capability.

 

[megadeth72]

Or just use a digital pot