more macro musings
- Thread starter Reef Bass
- Start date
rmrjwieger
Reef geek
I need help! Compared to this I NEED HELP! I use a Canon XS with a 60mm macro can you help me PLEASE!
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww128/rmrjwieger/picz028.jpg
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww128/rmrjwieger/picz028.jpg
rmrjwieger
Reef geek
mine look blurry!
jnb
Premium Member
tell us your speed setting put camera on manual and take the pictures at different speed settings with fstop wide open; if the resulting speed is greater than 80 or 100 which it probably is 250 or more (depending on your lights) with your tank lights on then you do not need a tripod and you can then also try different fstops. If lower, use a tripod and turn your flow off. You can try flash perhaps putting a white thin sock over the flash (that may not work depending) to fiffuse the light. Take the pictures at a direct shot, no angle thru the glass. You can also try manual focus.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14650880#post14650880 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rmrjwieger
I need help! Compared to this I NEED HELP! I use a Canon XS with a 60mm macro can you help me PLEASE!
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww128/rmrjwieger/picz028.jpg
dendronepthya
Premium Member
@Reef Bass - great looking shots. I wish I had a tank with lighting like that to shoot in.
@ rmrjwieger - a couple of observations. First, I am going to guess you aren't using a tripod because your shutter speeds are set at 1/250. Tripods make all the difference in the world, even when you are using appropriate shutter speeds for hand holding. Second, to achieve your selected shutter speed, you had to bump your ISO all the way up to 1600 which is really high for your camera. A Canon 5D has super clean ISO 1600, but I think you are seeing the graininess in the Rebel line of cameras at that high sensitivity.
@ rmrjwieger - a couple of observations. First, I am going to guess you aren't using a tripod because your shutter speeds are set at 1/250. Tripods make all the difference in the world, even when you are using appropriate shutter speeds for hand holding. Second, to achieve your selected shutter speed, you had to bump your ISO all the way up to 1600 which is really high for your camera. A Canon 5D has super clean ISO 1600, but I think you are seeing the graininess in the Rebel line of cameras at that high sensitivity.
dendronepthya
Premium Member
Oh a quick third observation. f/2.8. If you miss focus by a little the majority of your pic will be blurry. So your issues of image sharpness are a combination of high ISO, hand holding, and large aperture. I would try those shots again with ISO 100 and f/11 on a tripod.
100 mm Macro so hopefully I will be posting some pics in the next few days or weeks.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
I am kind of confused on the classification of the XS. I don't think I would call it a Rebel. It is it's own thing really. This is as much of a question as a statement. I just don't know what to make of it really.
1Ds, 1D, 5D, XXD (50D), XXXD (Xsi), XXXXD (XS)
TitusvileSurfer
New member
rmrjwieger are you shots 100% crops? I have a feeling you are not getting close enough to the coral for macro and just cropping super heavy to make the difference.
Reef Bass
colors and textures
jnb - Canon EOS 50D and Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro USM lens.
Than - thanks! I run 400w MHs which are definitely bright (relative to reef lighting, which is as you know generally not that bright in terms of possible lighting for photography). I also tend to brighten my dark areas a bit while post processing my pics to help show the details of sps flesh for example, or to compensate for reduced exposure when shooting to avoid blowing out the bright tips of sps for example. Not surprisingly, I find the subject's position in the tank (how it's lit) to be the most determinating factor in overall appearance. I often either move the subject to / in a more beneficial position or clear a visual path to the subject (as I am always shooting straight on and objects in front block the view). The optimal position for me is along the lines of how my green acan was positioned, on the sandbed reflecting the overhead lighting towards the camera.
rmrjwieger - You're almost there! dendronepthya's advice is right on. Nice acans.
nightOwl - you are correct, I am still heavily afflicted with the macro bug. Nice job on your new lens! I look forward to seeing your pics.
Than - thanks! I run 400w MHs which are definitely bright (relative to reef lighting, which is as you know generally not that bright in terms of possible lighting for photography). I also tend to brighten my dark areas a bit while post processing my pics to help show the details of sps flesh for example, or to compensate for reduced exposure when shooting to avoid blowing out the bright tips of sps for example. Not surprisingly, I find the subject's position in the tank (how it's lit) to be the most determinating factor in overall appearance. I often either move the subject to / in a more beneficial position or clear a visual path to the subject (as I am always shooting straight on and objects in front block the view). The optimal position for me is along the lines of how my green acan was positioned, on the sandbed reflecting the overhead lighting towards the camera.
rmrjwieger - You're almost there! dendronepthya's advice is right on. Nice acans.
nightOwl - you are correct, I am still heavily afflicted with the macro bug. Nice job on your new lens! I look forward to seeing your pics.
jnb
Premium Member
Reef Bass - Are you using a tripod? I don't want to appear argumentative - because I do not dispute that a tripod will help result in more excellant photos - as a matter of fact I often take one underwater with me. But I have so many in focus non-tripod pictures.......
With lights on - With a shutter speed greater than 100 - something will be in nice focus and it is quite easy to hold the camera steady enough to make sure the DOF sweet spot is in on target without having to buy and piddle with a tripod - there is something else going on with those photos which is 90% of the issue of not getting good focus - most probably the 1600 setting and shoot for the middle ground f stop.
With lights on - With a shutter speed greater than 100 - something will be in nice focus and it is quite easy to hold the camera steady enough to make sure the DOF sweet spot is in on target without having to buy and piddle with a tripod - there is something else going on with those photos which is 90% of the issue of not getting good focus - most probably the 1600 setting and shoot for the middle ground f stop.
Reef Bass
colors and textures
Yes, I do use a tripod. My camera is heavy and my hands aren't that steady. If you can keep the camera still and the focal plane where you want it without a tripod, great!
For me using the tripod enables the use of much longer exposures (up to 2 seconds or so if the subject is stationary and pumps are off) which allows me to shoot with lower ISOs and / or higher fstops.
I agree that reducing ISO and using a more midrange fstop would help the posted images.
Also make sure to shoot straight through the glass, as shooting at angle through glass introduces distortion and obliterates clarity.
For me using the tripod enables the use of much longer exposures (up to 2 seconds or so if the subject is stationary and pumps are off) which allows me to shoot with lower ISOs and / or higher fstops.
I agree that reducing ISO and using a more midrange fstop would help the posted images.
Also make sure to shoot straight through the glass, as shooting at angle through glass introduces distortion and obliterates clarity.
blackbeard 1
New member
nice acans.
Similar threads
