Has anyone sent the board to be prototyped?. I was thinking of burning a few bucks and ordering boards for the Cat4101 Driver and I figured while I'm at it I'd take a crack at this one as well. Didn't know if the Eagle files on the Code site had any known problems. Haven't been able to look at them because I am at work.
Do you have an off the shelf enclosure in mind? It would be nice to mount it in something available like a Polycase box to protect it.
Does anyone know how long is the battery supposed to last on the hydra without any power for a long time? I unplugged mine Thursday night at 3.3V, today I get 0V. I have no idea how long when the battery died, but if it lasts only a couple of days, that doesn't seem right.
terahz, I did use the one you guys put online ... is it the one you use for the PH ?
Did you try on temperature ?
Right now I did not connect the PH prototype to my digital board ... just analog prototype and I did put that on my temperature chamber.
Could one rule that out by measuring resistance on the trimpot under different temperature conditions?
At any rate, assuming the device is calibrated under "real world" conditions with the Hydra at "operating temperature" then I don't think it'll be an issue.
Hmm, is the VBAT supposed to be connected to VCC when the chip is on?
Hi all.
I hope I'm not interapting, but I have a question.
I bought the following SSR's (for reef controller project), and I think I did a mistake:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SSR25A-SOLID-ST...ontroller-/120584707970?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
Are these SSR's trustable? Can I sleep quietly with these SSRs running?
I'm going to connect pumps, skimmer and 300W skimmer (all 220v).
What do you thinik?
Many thanks!
Dan.
Good news - the RU (UL Recognized Component) mark is legitimate on that product.
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/...n=versionless&parent_id=1073763379&sequence=1
Of course that only means the component is safe - how you use it may not be.
Yes, I left off a bunch of pictures and descriptions. And I guess I should qualify it depends on how many outlet you need. The only thing I will change (if I can) will be to have shorter wires from the relays to the control board. I intend (does anyone know if I can) to have a long IIC bus, 12 volts (for the relays) and 5 volts(for the port expander). Four long wires of moderate gauge rather than 16 heave gauge.I worked a bit on the relay part of the controller so here is the progress.
2x opto-isolated 10A 4 relay board from futurlec
http://www.futurlec.com/Opto_Relay_4.shtml
1x American DJ power strip
http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-P...8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1278899261&sr=8-1
1x MCP23008 port expander (same as on the controller)
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mic...3008-E-P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvcAs5GUBtMdVgPLCS8TUZv
...
Total cost for 8 controlled 10A outlets comes to a bit over $60. Not bad imho.