Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
BTW, I've added a first draft to setting up your Hydra with ThingSpeak for charts:
http://hydra-reef.com/wiki/ThingSpeak
It is much much simpler than doing your own DB server+webapps.
http://hydra-reef.com/wiki/ThingSpeak
It is much much simpler than doing your own DB server+webapps.
sanddune600
Premium Member
Nice just signed up created a channel only thing I noticed is here it says this is your IP address and should say change this to your IP
static uint8_t myip[4] = {192,168,1,127}; <- change the numbers to match your network
static uint8_t gwip[4] = {192,168,1,1}; <- this is the IP of your router or cable modem
I think it should be changed to the following to stop confusion
static uint8_t myip[4] = {192,168,1,127}; <- change the numbers to match your network
static uint8_t gwip[4] = {192,168,1,1}; <- change this to the IP of your router or cable modem
static uint8_t myip[4] = {192,168,1,127}; <- change the numbers to match your network
static uint8_t gwip[4] = {192,168,1,1}; <- this is the IP of your router or cable modem
I think it should be changed to the following to stop confusion
static uint8_t myip[4] = {192,168,1,127}; <- change the numbers to match your network
static uint8_t gwip[4] = {192,168,1,1}; <- change this to the IP of your router or cable modem
Obi-dad
Active member
Nice job, looks sweet.
bd98072
New member
Looks great. I signed up, created my channel (502), created some fields, and integrated the charts into the Hydra server. Works great.
Only problem. If I copy/paste the browser string I create to update the data on the ThingSpeak server into a browser window, it updates the data just fine. However, I can't seem to get the data to update from inside the application. I suspect it has to do with just trying to access "http://api.thingspeak.com", without knowing the correct ip string to use.
the server side of my application is working great!
if you have the send piece working, I would really appreciate a look at the code that sends the data to the thingspeak.com server.
As always ... amazing work on your part !!!!
oops ... did a little more reading ... found the url under the "arduino" section of the thingspeak website --- everything works !!!!
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bd98072
New member
terahz,
Used my own firmware, based largely on your model. The web services part is mostly all yours, although I removed the while(1), and update a few things so that it all works in the loop() cycle. Also modified the PH and Temp send/receive I2C processing to use events.
Had a little bug in the I2C, and now the PH should be reading about 11.x because the sensor is still in its shipping fluid, and has not been calibrated yet.
Temps are all in air, as I still have not moved this over to my aquarium.
My main module is currently coded to use a specific IR controller.
Removed the lcd_in_use_flag, as I found it was not needed once the IR and I2C interrupts were working correctly.
Just about to add LED handling based on my Typhon code to the main module.
Will also change the IR handling to be closer to your model.
Used my own firmware, based largely on your model. The web services part is mostly all yours, although I removed the while(1), and update a few things so that it all works in the loop() cycle. Also modified the PH and Temp send/receive I2C processing to use events.
Had a little bug in the I2C, and now the PH should be reading about 11.x because the sensor is still in its shipping fluid, and has not been calibrated yet.
Temps are all in air, as I still have not moved this over to my aquarium.
My main module is currently coded to use a specific IR controller.
Removed the lcd_in_use_flag, as I found it was not needed once the IR and I2C interrupts were working correctly.
Just about to add LED handling based on my Typhon code to the main module.
Will also change the IR handling to be closer to your model.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Sounds good Brian. If you want we can have a chat and merge the two code bases. There is no point in everyone having their own firmware. I've been thinking about interrupts, but for some reason a pH interrupting ATO or something like that doesn't sound right to me 
. Anyway, if you're interested send me a PM.
. Anyway, if you're interested send me a PM.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Ok, another update on the case I've been working. I got my TRRS snap in and DB9 connectors today so I added the I2C and PWM outputs to the case. As always making a square/rectangular holes is a PITA! But it's ok.
I used some jumper wires that worked like a charm here. It will be much simpler this way to plug/unplug the panel connectors to the board IMHO. Anyway on to the photos:
(I know the DB connector is not straight )
Now I need something like DB-90 for the rest of the digital+analog+5V+GND combos
I used some jumper wires that worked like a charm here. It will be much simpler this way to plug/unplug the panel connectors to the board IMHO. Anyway on to the photos:
(I know the DB connector is not straight
)
Now I need something like DB-90 for the rest of the digital+analog+5V+GND combos
sanddune600
Premium Member
start with what looks fried I guess that sucks any smoke or black marks coming out of any chips
TheFishMan65
New member
Try it with DC. Maybe you just lost the RTC.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
TheShadow,
The test sketch is for the main AVR only.
Do you have a multimeter? Can you test the voltages around the RTC chip? Also the 5V regulator? If you have a scope, maybe you can monitor the I2C bus to see if any communication is happening?
If your LCD is showing a string, it means most of the circuit is working.
The test sketch is for the main AVR only.
Do you have a multimeter? Can you test the voltages around the RTC chip? Also the 5V regulator? If you have a scope, maybe you can monitor the I2C bus to see if any communication is happening?
If your LCD is showing a string, it means most of the circuit is working.
I particularly enjoy your explanation of how the Ph amplifier works!
shirley386
Member
A while back someone suggested using a phone cord for the Temp probe. I liked the idea because it would be easy to snap it in and out of an enclosure when needed.
I wired mine up yesterday to a phone cord only to realize how small phone cord wires were. Each wire contains only 4 hairlike strands. I had trouble stripping the insulation off without cutting a wire or two. I finally realized that I could simply melt/burn the insulation off with the soldering iron. I finally got the cord soldered to the chip and heat shrink tubing over all the joints. I then got the plastic "barrel/tube" from an old ball point pen and filled it about 3/4 with silicone. Then I slid the chip, wires and all down into the silicone; added more silicone until the "tube" was full. Put a large heat shrink sleeve over the joint, filled it with more silicone, and shrunk it down.
It seems to be working fine this morning. I wonder how long the tiny phone wires will last though. I guess it will last until salt water gets to it. I might use something like thermostat wire for the next one.
I wired mine up yesterday to a phone cord only to realize how small phone cord wires were. Each wire contains only 4 hairlike strands. I had trouble stripping the insulation off without cutting a wire or two. I finally realized that I could simply melt/burn the insulation off with the soldering iron. I finally got the cord soldered to the chip and heat shrink tubing over all the joints. I then got the plastic "barrel/tube" from an old ball point pen and filled it about 3/4 with silicone. Then I slid the chip, wires and all down into the silicone; added more silicone until the "tube" was full. Put a large heat shrink sleeve over the joint, filled it with more silicone, and shrunk it down.
It seems to be working fine this morning. I wonder how long the tiny phone wires will last though. I guess it will last until salt water gets to it. I might use something like thermostat wire for the next one.
