Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
I would like to order a batch of the relay boards as well... and maybe the ELN boards to go with it. If anyone has the gerber files for those, or can create them and send them to me, I would happily repay the favor by sending them a board when they arrive.
I'd try to create them myself but...
a) I'm not familiar with that type of software and I'm afraid I'd mess it up and waste money and time..
b) My only computer right now is a little netbook and I don't think any type of design software will run on it (very well) anyhow.
I'd try to create them myself but...
a) I'm not familiar with that type of software and I'm afraid I'd mess it up and waste money and time..
b) My only computer right now is a little netbook and I don't think any type of design software will run on it (very well) anyhow.
Thank you to those who helped me with the gerbers. I appreciate the help and I hope to return the favor one day.
I have another question to ask.. Does anyone know where to find the HR911105A part? I have tried ebay, mouser, digikey, modern devices, and sparkfun, but I haven't had any luck.
I have another question to ask.. Does anyone know where to find the HR911105A part? I have tried ebay, mouser, digikey, modern devices, and sparkfun, but I haven't had any luck.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
iTead has them.
http://iteadstudio.com/store/index....ducts_id=360&zenid=tf8bb5t7f77g17ft1nf2c52ki0
Might be worth ordering pcbs from them as well to combine shipping.
http://iteadstudio.com/store/index....ducts_id=360&zenid=tf8bb5t7f77g17ft1nf2c52ki0
Might be worth ordering pcbs from them as well to combine shipping.
ZenMastr1968
New member
I wasn't getting E-mail notifications either. Just downloaded tapatalk this weekend and saw there was activity in the thread still....
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
shirley386
Member
pH problem - very frustrated!
pH problem - very frustrated!
I can't get the pH to calibrate. Without the probe connected it reads 0.0. With the probe connected it reads 2.3 (+-). I have two Hydras and they both do the same thing. I changed probes and that didn't help. Using 7.0 and 10.0 calibration fluid. The pots get to end of turn in both direction without having any effect on the pH readings.
Here's code I'm using on master:
In loop sub:
getpH(); // read pH
lcd.cursorTo(0,12);
lcd.print("pH:");
lcd.print(floatToString(buffer,pH,1)); // convert pH from float to string and print it
void getpH( void ){
double sum = 0.0;
uint8_t samples = 15;
for (uint8_t i = 0; i <= samples; i++)
{
sum += analogRead( PH_READ_PIN );
delay( 20 );
}
pH = (sum/samples/46);
}
PH_READ_PIN is 3.
I thought it might be a problem with the "floatToString" line so I did a Serial.print and got the same results.
I feel like it is something simple but I can't find it. Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Shirley
PS: I have U11 mounted with the flat side toward the edge of the board. I've seen pictures of it mounted both ways. Which is correct?
pH problem - very frustrated!
I can't get the pH to calibrate. Without the probe connected it reads 0.0. With the probe connected it reads 2.3 (+-). I have two Hydras and they both do the same thing. I changed probes and that didn't help. Using 7.0 and 10.0 calibration fluid. The pots get to end of turn in both direction without having any effect on the pH readings.
Here's code I'm using on master:
In loop sub:
getpH(); // read pH
lcd.cursorTo(0,12);
lcd.print("pH:");
lcd.print(floatToString(buffer,pH,1)); // convert pH from float to string and print it
void getpH( void ){
double sum = 0.0;
uint8_t samples = 15;
for (uint8_t i = 0; i <= samples; i++)
{
sum += analogRead( PH_READ_PIN );
delay( 20 );
}
pH = (sum/samples/46);
}
PH_READ_PIN is 3.
I thought it might be a problem with the "floatToString" line so I did a Serial.print and got the same results.
I feel like it is something simple but I can't find it. Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Shirley
PS: I have U11 mounted with the flat side toward the edge of the board. I've seen pictures of it mounted both ways. Which is correct?
Last edited:
shirley386
Member
I have U11 mounted with the flat side toward the edge of the board. This matches the orientation of the silkscreen on the back of the board. However, if the silkscreen on the back of the board indicates the positioning IF it were mounted on the back then it would be backward.
I am so frustrated!! Something so simple. I was going to get up this morning, start calibrating the pH, put a solenoid on the CO2 regulator, get ready to put the probe in the calcium reactor, finish the calibration, hook it up, and watch the controller maintain a constant pH in the reactor. Now this! If it was not the same on both Hydras I would think a problem with the soldering or a trace bridge. Somebody help meh!
I am so frustrated!! Something so simple. I was going to get up this morning, start calibrating the pH, put a solenoid on the CO2 regulator, get ready to put the probe in the calcium reactor, finish the calibration, hook it up, and watch the controller maintain a constant pH in the reactor. Now this! If it was not the same on both Hydras I would think a problem with the soldering or a trace bridge. Somebody help meh!
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
shirley386, can you post a photo of your board? Which version do you have? Do you get -5V out of U11? When the PH probe is disconnected you should have a ph of ~14 on the screen.
I assume you have looked at http://hydra-reef.com/wiki/Assembling? The older versions had the IC inverted, but the new ones should be fixed.
I assume you have looked at http://hydra-reef.com/wiki/Assembling? The older versions had the IC inverted, but the new ones should be fixed.
shirley386
Member
Here's the pics. The board is V1.0 11/11/10. The voltages @ U11 from the top side left to right are: 0.0, -5.5, -4.6. I hope it's as simple as turning U11 around.
rrg1974
New member
how do I buy this board?? I'm looking to build the same, but I could not find a reference of where I can purchase the board and the componets? ThanksHere's the pics. The board is V1.0 11/11/10. The voltages @ U11 from the top side left to right are: 0.0, -5.5, -4.6. I hope it's as simple as turning U11 around.
I'm really interested in doing this, but I'm having an issue finding any notes. I tried searching for Chauvet and SR-8 but haven't had much luck. Do you have any details on this? I can probably handle the wiring but need to know what the Chauvet needs.
I thought I could find some I2C relay outlet strips but they seem to be hard to find. Looks like some of our aquarium stuff doesn't handle SSR's really well. I was working on a 68HC11 SSR relay board about 10 years ago, but now I'm switching to an Arduino (actually .Net Panda II from GHI) form factor.
== John ==
shirley386
Member
OH, also, when I power on the pH reads around 4.2 +- and then quickly fades to 0.0.
shirley386
Member
OK, I found 4 22 ohm resistors that should be 22K resistors. They were all in the pH circuit. Went to Radio Shack and I'll try to swap them out tomorrow. I feel a good bit better now. :dance:
Actually, I meant pin-out's and signal requirements for the relay.
I did find this note http://www.tricerasoft.com/cgi-bin/yabb3/YaBB.pl?num=1191966097 which has the pin-out's but no details.
My guess is I need a buffer chip to drive the relay coils.
I really like the idea of leaving the 120V in a separate box. I AM an Electrical Engineer, but although I don't see UL listing on the relay box, I figure I can sue them if my house burns down.
For the price of DIY relay banks, this seems pretty reasonable.== John ==
DustinB
New member
I posted the pinouts here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17672028&postcount=544
If you look back through the pages I posted my solution as I was working on it. We even design an expansion board to drive the guitar center strip.
I have the schematics here: http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/af238/DustinsReef/Hydra/
There's also pics of a protoboard I did that was similar.
If you look back through the pages I posted my solution as I was working on it. We even design an expansion board to drive the guitar center strip.
I have the schematics here: http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/af238/DustinsReef/Hydra/
There's also pics of a protoboard I did that was similar.
shirley386
Member
OK, changing out the resistors did the trick. In case anyone is wondering, it's a whole lot harder repairing a board than it is to do it right the first time.
Thanks to all you guys who did all the ground work putting this thing together. I've really enjoyed it!
Thanks to all you guys who did all the ground work putting this thing together. I've really enjoyed it!
