Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?

The BOM on the google code site has been updated. I found smaller replacements for the "tall" caps that should still work OK - the 10uF caps are the same hole spacing and diameter so they'll drop right in, but the 47 uF caps are a tiny bit larger - they'll still fit but you'll have to bend the leads a tad (no big deal really). The voltage rating on the 47uF cap went down a bit (there simply aren't caps small enough with a higher rating) but it's 25v now; still should be plenty high considering most people are (or should be) running this off 9v - 12v max.

Also added notes to the parts that seem commonly out of stock listing alternate part numbers, and listed the digikey part number for a few of the things Mouser has out of stock. If anyone still gets stuck, just post up and someone can help, I'm sure.

Dustin, someone posted a while back (I think in this very thread, or one of the other Arduino threads) a "power strip" with relays built in, with a convenient DIN cable plug. IIRC it was available from Musician's Friend or some other DJ supply house.

FishMan, the only issue I'm aware of with Futurelec is that their shipping is verrrrrrrrrrrrry slow.
 
The power strip terahz posted does not have the relays in it. He is using that in combination with his futurlec relay boards. I guess I'll search around and see if I can find an alternative.
 
I agree with DWZM, I think someone (other than terahz) found a different box with the relays built. I just can't rmember what thread. sigh
 
I saw the box with the relays in it, that was from the other reef controller project. They used the same box and mounted their relays in the top cover of the box.

I'm thinking about going ahead and ordering the relay boards from futurlec. Seems to be the cheapest and easiest option.
 
DustinB said:
I saw the box with the relays in it, that was from the other reef controller project. They used the same box and mounted their relays in the top cover of the box.

I'm thinking about going ahead and ordering the relay boards from futurlec. Seems to be the cheapest and easiest option.
Click to expand...

No, there was definitely a distinct product posted in one of the threads - it was a pre built power strip with relays built in, meant to act as a "daughter" unit on a pro DJ lighting rig. It's killing me that I can't find the post...
 
Think this was it:
dafunkdawg said:
I don't know if you guys read my other post but this piece here

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Chauvet-SR-8--Relay-Pack-803158-i1384700.gc

it the answer for the relay board with very minimal work. It has 8 12 vdc relays inside of it all connected to an external db9 port. You can send 12 v ground to one pin and then each of the 8 remaining will each control one relay / outlet with a 12 volt pulse. It eliminates the need for running 120 vac outside the enclosure to external relays . You can build a simple db9 control cable from whatever device you want and plug it in. They best part about it is the price .
Click to expand...
 
It appears to want a 12v control signal. So, I'd whip up a little breakout board to put an MCP23008 on, with a transistor on each output switching a 12v power source. Connect it to the I2C pins on the Hydra, plus "Vin" from the shield-format headers (for your 12v source) and you're good to go.
 
Any particular specs on the transistor? I'm almost done compiling my list on off your BOM. So far I only have to order from 3 places. Hoping I can get everything I need all at once. Besides the what's on the BOM, the port expanders, and the relay strip, anything else I might need to get it going?

I'm also looking at this: 863-MC7805BDTRKG as a replacement for 512-MC7805ECDTX since it's out of stock.
 
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There are a fair number of unknowns but I don't think it's very critical. I might use something like this.

Keep in mind since they're 12v you'll definitely need a 12v power source. Easiest would be to use a 12v wall wart for the Hydra itself and run the relays off that.
 
DustinB said:
I'm also looking at this: 863-MC7805BDTRKG as a replacement for 512-MC7805ECDTX since it's out of stock.
Click to expand...

That should be fine. Really any 7805 in the right package will work. There may be small differences in specs but they shouldn't impact the operation of the circuit in a way you can't live with.
 
Well I'm down to my last part for my orders, the temp sensors. I'm going to go with the DS18S20 sensors as suggested. Looks like the DS18S20 is the replacement for the DS1820.

One of these sensors may get tied in inside the controller box in case any operating temp variables need to be applied.

The other sensor will go into my sump. Have any of you guys using this sensor thought about how you are going to waterproof it? Anyone have a different one-wire sensor in mind that comes assembled already waterproof? Hoping to find one from digikey or mouser since almost everything else is coming from those 2.
 
I figured I would use a thin coat of silicone over the whole thing. I realize it is insulating, but the change should be slow and I don't think it would be a problem. Another choice would be get a thermally conductive tube and seal both ends with silicone. Then the only insulation is air. The problem with that is that the cheapest/best would be something like copper BUT YOU DO NOT WANT THAT IN YOUR TANK. Maybe aluminum, but some people think that is bad.
 
That's kinda what I was thinking, was just wondering if anyone found one ready to go. I guess I'll cover it with heatshrink and plug the ends with silicone.
 
You could use epoxy. What is common in home brewing is to encapsulate a temp sensor in epoxy and shove it in a stainless steel tube that sticks into the vessel. It'll cause the sensor to lag some, but that shouldn't really be an issue.
 
I wouldn't use epoxy unless the coated sensor was going to be physically protected somehow, i.e. mounted in a tube or body - it strikes me as too brittle on it's own, while silicone will flex instead of cracking if the wires are disturbed.
 
I got some 1/4" ID rigid tubing at the LFS for my temperature probes. I used epoxy putty to seal the tubes and covered it with heat shrink tubing.
 
Well everything is on the way, after a few days of planning all the orders out and finding parts.

A few hundred dollars and 7 vendors later: :hmm4:

APT Instruments
Guitar Center
Mouser
Digi-key
SparkFun
ModernDevice
Bulk Reef Supply

Not bad though, about $350 and I will have everything needed(including some extras) to have a complete reef controller with auto top-off, pH, and even dosing with pumps. etc...........

Should save what, $800?
 
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