Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
DustinB
New member
I don't know too much about the arduino regulator but I think it's only rated to 500mAH.
How are you powering the arduino? If you are using a wall wart rated high enough I would probably just pick up the +V from that to a standard 7805 regulator and run the ground from that to the arduino. Use that regulator to power the MCP23008 port expander thus powering the 8 NPN transistors.
I have a custom board built containing all the transistors, port expander, and regulator. From there you want to use another wall wart at 12v to give you a 12v line to power the relays, just connect your ground to the rest of the circuit.
I can post pics later if you need them.
How are you powering the arduino? If you are using a wall wart rated high enough I would probably just pick up the +V from that to a standard 7805 regulator and run the ground from that to the arduino. Use that regulator to power the MCP23008 port expander thus powering the 8 NPN transistors.
I have a custom board built containing all the transistors, port expander, and regulator. From there you want to use another wall wart at 12v to give you a 12v line to power the relays, just connect your ground to the rest of the circuit.
I can post pics later if you need them.
nauticac4
Baby Fish Wrangler
Allen00se
The project is still being worked on and a few of the guys here are fleshing out the board and troubleshooting minor issues. For right now there is nothing other than reading the thread and the board files to go on. When the board is complete there is supposed to be a Wiki type page for the board so that anyone in theory can build this controller.
DustinB
Would love some pictures and information. I am looking at getting some of the functions going with the Arduino Mega that I have just to get started and then swap over to the Hydra once I can get it build and functional. I am currently powering the board with a 9V walwart or the USB for testing. Wanted to check to see how you were getting the Chauvet to work with the Arduino before I jumped inot it. I look at the SR_8 and the Optp boards the teraz posted and I like the packaging of the SR-8 better.
The project is still being worked on and a few of the guys here are fleshing out the board and troubleshooting minor issues. For right now there is nothing other than reading the thread and the board files to go on. When the board is complete there is supposed to be a Wiki type page for the board so that anyone in theory can build this controller.
DustinB
Would love some pictures and information. I am looking at getting some of the functions going with the Arduino Mega that I have just to get started and then swap over to the Hydra once I can get it build and functional. I am currently powering the board with a 9V walwart or the USB for testing. Wanted to check to see how you were getting the Chauvet to work with the Arduino before I jumped inot it. I look at the SR_8 and the Optp boards the teraz posted and I like the packaging of the SR-8 better.
DustinB
New member
The google code site/wiki is located here: http://code.google.com/p/hydra-reef/wiki/Intro?tm=6
It contains a basic outline of the project. Basically this will be a cheap DIY alternative to commercial controllers. You could save anywhere between $100 and $1000 by making this project. Being based on arduino, along with different things that have been included on the board, it's functionality and expandability is pretty extensive.
Nauticac4: I'll get some pics up tonight. I'll probably try and do an eagle project for my relay board as well.
DustinB
New member
I'm using the DS18B20 sensor, they have them at digi-key. I had some large long syringe needles that had some long caps just large enough to let the sensor slide in. (FYI - aiptasia don't like being injected with kalk and they spread everywhere) :uzi:
You can buy the sensors already waterproofed but they are about $15 more than DIY. I did find these from china: http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Thermal-probe-sensor-DS18B20-/350407896599#vi-desc
You can buy the sensors already waterproofed but they are about $15 more than DIY. I did find these from china: http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Thermal-probe-sensor-DS18B20-/350407896599#vi-desc
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
I use LM35 (Celsius). It is about $1.7 (vs $6 for the DS18B20) and is linear in terms of voltage/temperature, so pretty straight forward. Only downside is that each sensor takes one analog pin, if that's a concern.
As for waterproofing, after you solder the wires and add a heatshrink tubing, just dip it in aquarium safe silicone and you're all set
As for waterproofing, after you solder the wires and add a heatshrink tubing, just dip it in aquarium safe silicone and you're all set
sanddune600
Premium Member
any replacements for the 5 volt regulator mouser and digikey are out MC7805ECDTX
will these work
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TLE4284D V50DKR-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TLE4284D V50CT-ND
will these work
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TLE4284D V50DKR-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=TLE4284D V50CT-ND
Last edited:
DustinB
New member
Mouser: 863-MC7805BDTRKG
sanddune600
Premium Member
thanks everything is ordered except the board
chathaway417
New member
I finished reading the diy driver thread for the 2nd time yesterday, and have just started reading this thread, and I have a question that would simplify things for me or anyone else that is new to diy electronics. Does anyone know a good website that can explain the basics in layman's terms? I pick up tidbits here and there, but it would be great if I could read an online "tutorial" that explains stuff rather than reading through 30 or so pages making reference to PCB before finally seeing someone say Printed Circuit Board! Things like PWM, pots, shield, header, firmware, I2C, One Wire, etc. I understand the concept and application, but I need to know what the terms mean and what the parts do in order to really grasp it, and I don't want to post "Hey, what is a _______ and what does it do?" everytime I see a new term. I think DWZM stated it perfectly "I want to make this as accessible as possible. People should be able to follow a standard set of instructions using commercially available parts and build this, without having to figure things out on their own.", I just need to be able to understand the discussion. Thanks!
DustinB
New member
Like DWZM stated, the project goal is for people to have a working controller where all they have to do is solder parts and load a premade sketch. However the option for expansion and customization is also there for those who want to. In the end there will be several pages explaining the controller in detail along with example pages for different things such as relay control, etc...
As for learning, it really depends how far you want to go into this. If you really want to learn http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ is a great resource, but fairly in depth on various topics. I don't know of any one site that really explains just the topics we are using without a lot of other things.
Starting with i2c. Basically the arduino has a limited number of input/output pins to transfer data/interact. With the number of things on the board such as ethernet, LCD, pH, etc... This can really eat into the number of pins left over for other things such as relay control, auto topoff, etc... i2c is a way to use multiple inputs/outputs by sending bits/codes to different addresses through basically a 2-wire interface all controlled by a single processor. The MCP23008 port expander is basically an interface to have more inputs/outputs by providing the physical pins. For example, the LCD would need several pins to communicate with the processor. This way we have the LCD connected to the port expander which is connected to the processor through 2 pins. We change the physical pin state of the port expander to a code containing the pin status. This happens to be 8 bits controlling 8 pins.
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/I2CPortExpanderAndLCDs
Shield: The actual arduino has a board setup in a way to allow other custom boards to "stack" on top of it, thereby plugging into the needed pins. The custom board is called a shield.
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoShields
Pots: Potentiometers= variable resistors.
Headers: "Most" of the pins and sockets you see in the pictures.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=115
Firmware: Basically the "operating system" of the processor/controller.
One Wire: Things such as temperature sensors that don't require many pins on the processor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1-Wire
PWM = Pulse Width Modulation, basically a way to control the average voltage of an output pin by increasing/decreasing the time between pulses.
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
This should help you understand the discussion, but to truly understand electronics start with the first link I post and go through all the topics. That would be a start.
As for learning, it really depends how far you want to go into this. If you really want to learn http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ is a great resource, but fairly in depth on various topics. I don't know of any one site that really explains just the topics we are using without a lot of other things.
Starting with i2c. Basically the arduino has a limited number of input/output pins to transfer data/interact. With the number of things on the board such as ethernet, LCD, pH, etc... This can really eat into the number of pins left over for other things such as relay control, auto topoff, etc... i2c is a way to use multiple inputs/outputs by sending bits/codes to different addresses through basically a 2-wire interface all controlled by a single processor. The MCP23008 port expander is basically an interface to have more inputs/outputs by providing the physical pins. For example, the LCD would need several pins to communicate with the processor. This way we have the LCD connected to the port expander which is connected to the processor through 2 pins. We change the physical pin state of the port expander to a code containing the pin status. This happens to be 8 bits controlling 8 pins.
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/I2CPortExpanderAndLCDs
Shield: The actual arduino has a board setup in a way to allow other custom boards to "stack" on top of it, thereby plugging into the needed pins. The custom board is called a shield.
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoShields
Pots: Potentiometers= variable resistors.
Headers: "Most" of the pins and sockets you see in the pictures.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=115
Firmware: Basically the "operating system" of the processor/controller.
One Wire: Things such as temperature sensors that don't require many pins on the processor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1-Wire
PWM = Pulse Width Modulation, basically a way to control the average voltage of an output pin by increasing/decreasing the time between pulses.
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
This should help you understand the discussion, but to truly understand electronics start with the first link I post and go through all the topics. That would be a start.
nauticac4
Baby Fish Wrangler
Chathaway417- Spark fun tutorials section has alot of great information. They have everything from soldering how to info to basic design and layout to eagle tutorials. Take a look there as well as what DustinB suggested. I am in the same boat as you feel like I am in the dark and playing catch-up all the time.
DustinB - Any picture of the relay setup yet?
DustinB - Any picture of the relay setup yet?
chathaway417
New member
Thanks DustinB and nauticac4, will do!
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
chathaway417, I would suggest wikipedia for anything you don't know. 95% of the cases you can just add the term you are looking for the the following url and you will get your asnwer:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/<add_term_here>
For example, the first entry in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCB says:
Printed circuit board, board used in electronics
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I2C:
I²C (Inter-Integrated Circuit) is a multi-master serial single-ended computer bus invented by Philips that is used to attach low-speed peripherals to a motherboard, embedded system, or cellphone.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_wire:
1-Wire is a device communications bus system designed by Dallas Semiconductor Corp. that provides low-speed data, signaling and power over a single signal
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PWM: (first entry under Technology)
Pulse-width modulation, is a very efficient way of providing intermediate amounts of electrical power between fully on and fully off
You get the idea.
Eventually documentation will be available, but none of us has the time that is required to sit down and do it all quickly. On that note, if you are going through the exercise of finding all unknown to you terms, it would be very helpful for all future users of Hydra if you create a glossary that we can use as part of the said documentation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/<add_term_here>
For example, the first entry in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCB says:
Printed circuit board, board used in electronics
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I2C:
I²C (Inter-Integrated Circuit) is a multi-master serial single-ended computer bus invented by Philips that is used to attach low-speed peripherals to a motherboard, embedded system, or cellphone.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_wire:
1-Wire is a device communications bus system designed by Dallas Semiconductor Corp. that provides low-speed data, signaling and power over a single signal
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PWM: (first entry under Technology)
Pulse-width modulation, is a very efficient way of providing intermediate amounts of electrical power between fully on and fully off
You get the idea.
Eventually documentation will be available, but none of us has the time that is required to sit down and do it all quickly. On that note, if you are going through the exercise of finding all unknown to you terms, it would be very helpful for all future users of Hydra if you create a glossary that we can use as part of the said documentation.
seeliger_00
New member
Parts ordered
Parts ordered
Awesome thread guys. You all have really done your homework. Almost seems unfair for me to tag along. You guys have done most of the work(BOM, PCB Layout, prototype, re-spin of board, code repository(SVN A+)). I have ordered the parts listed in the BOM and look forward to putting this together.
What is the best option for for getting the PCB board? Is there any place that will build just one or two (not 10)?
Also any recommendations on the display P/N and where to get it? This didn't appear to be part of the BOM.
Hopefully I can contribute in the coding area or beta testing however you guys seem to have a leg up on that as well.
Parts ordered
Awesome thread guys. You all have really done your homework. Almost seems unfair for me to tag along. You guys have done most of the work(BOM, PCB Layout, prototype, re-spin of board, code repository(SVN A+)). I have ordered the parts listed in the BOM and look forward to putting this together.
What is the best option for for getting the PCB board? Is there any place that will build just one or two (not 10)?
Also any recommendations on the display P/N and where to get it? This didn't appear to be part of the BOM.
Hopefully I can contribute in the coding area or beta testing however you guys seem to have a leg up on that as well.
DustinB
New member
Really the cheapest is probably going to be iteadstudio.com/store where you have to get 10 boards. 10 boards for $28 + $3 shipping. The other cheapest place is dorkbotpdx but they are about $60 for 3 boards. Then you have batchpcb where you can get a single board, but it works out to about $40. If you order some and have extras, people can PM you if you want to distribute the extras at cost.
I got my display from moderndevice. http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/20x4-blue-lcd
You can get pretty much any SPLC780D/HD44870 compatible LCD. Most of us are going with a 20x4 display. Many places have them in many different colors.
I got my display from moderndevice. http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/20x4-blue-lcd
You can get pretty much any SPLC780D/HD44870 compatible LCD. Most of us are going with a 20x4 display. Many places have them in many different colors.
Names Brucey
New member
I would be interested in a board myself so if you want to try and work something out let me know. Maybe we can find some other interested folks and make this happen.
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