Great! Thanks Dustin. that helps immensly. I did do a search but chauvet SR-8 didn't match well.
Wow, I guess I just assumed they would be sealed relays. I hope I don't get corrosion. I already bought it
== John ==
Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
Great! Thanks Dustin. that helps immensly. I did do a search but chauvet SR-8 didn't match well.
Wow, I guess I just assumed they would be sealed relays. I hope I don't get corrosion. I already bought it
Tesla
New member
User Name
I received the boards today. Thanks, should be a fun project.:dance:
Phillip
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes, but only the shadow doesn't know
Sorry couldn't resist. I will eventually have one so no expert, but there should be some commented out code in the start up routines. Uncomment the code set for 5 minutes from now and down. In 5 minutes turn it on. Then download the version with time setting commented out. At least that is what I remember - if I am wrong someone will correct me soon.
Sorry couldn't resist. I will eventually have one so no expert, but there should be some commented out code in the start up routines. Uncomment the code set for 5 minutes from now and down. In 5 minutes turn it on. Then download the version with time setting commented out. At least that is what I remember - if I am wrong someone will correct me soon.
TheShadow
New member
here is what I have
Basic 20x4 Character LCD common HD44780 parallel interface chip-set.Includes LED back-light.
Now here is the code.
//remove coment to enable various debug modes
//#define DEBUG //general
//#define DEBUG_LED //extra for LEDs
//#define DEBUG_CLOCK //extra for RTC
// select one of the input methods
#define IR_INPUT // used this if you are going to have IR input
#define IR_PIN 6 // Sensor data-out pin, wired direct
//#define KEYPAD_INPUT // use this if you are going to have a physical keypad
#define LEDS // comment this out if you don't have LEDs
#define PH_READ_PIN 3 // analog pin to poll PH
#define PWM_BACKLIGHT_PIN 8 // pwm-controlled LED backlight
#define SplashScrnTime 2 // Splash Screen display time, seconds
You no if you guys can walk me through this it would show even the dumbest person can complete a HYDRA. A testament to your dedication as reefers.
Basic 20x4 Character LCD common HD44780 parallel interface chip-set.Includes LED back-light.
Now here is the code.
//remove coment to enable various debug modes
//#define DEBUG //general
//#define DEBUG_LED //extra for LEDs
//#define DEBUG_CLOCK //extra for RTC
// select one of the input methods
#define IR_INPUT // used this if you are going to have IR input
#define IR_PIN 6 // Sensor data-out pin, wired direct
//#define KEYPAD_INPUT // use this if you are going to have a physical keypad
#define LEDS // comment this out if you don't have LEDs
#define PH_READ_PIN 3 // analog pin to poll PH
#define PWM_BACKLIGHT_PIN 8 // pwm-controlled LED backlight
#define SplashScrnTime 2 // Splash Screen display time, seconds
You no if you guys can walk me through this it would show even the dumbest person can complete a HYDRA. A testament to your dedication as reefers.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
1. Update the date variables on the top of the sketch to current time + 1 minute (or however long it takes you to do the below steps).
uint8_t second = 00;
uint8_t minute = 00;
uint8_t hour = 23;
uint8_t dayOfWeek = 4;
uint8_t dayOfMonth = 3;
uint8_t month = 3;
uint8_t year = 11;
2. Upload to Hydra and wait for it to start.
3. Unplug all power and remove battery.
4. Count to 10 and reinsert battery.
5. Start Hydra.
bighouse2001
New member
anyboby have any circuit diagrams?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
For what?
If you mean for the Hydra itself, look back in the thread for the google code site. We are using it as a repository for the Eagle files so you can find the schematics there.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
v0.04 of my firmware is now in the SVN repo.
Changes (Master only):
RAM is really tight. Enabling a couple of debugging modes will cause it to run out of it, so if you're playing with this firmware keep that in mind.
EDIT: BTW, I'm not really sure if anyone is using the Hydra with my firmware, but if you are and have suggestions speak up.
Changes (Master only):
- Fixed a few bugs in the menu that would mess up some states if you exit while setting a value.
- Added 1Wire and temp libs. If a temp probe (like DS18S20) is connected, temperature in C (can be changed) will be displayed. (I'm too lazy to write more i2c code to get the temperature from the slave ).
- If RTC is not running (battery taken out and power unplugged), when the controller starts it enters IR learning mode(useful for resetting the controller) and a date is set to get things rolling.
- Scrolling through menu options is now showing the previous and next 2 options on the screen.
RAM is really tight. Enabling a couple of debugging modes will cause it to run out of it, so if you're playing with this firmware keep that in mind.
EDIT: BTW, I'm not really sure if anyone is using the Hydra with my firmware, but if you are and have suggestions speak up.
Anyone feel like helping me troubleshoot?
I finally got my board soldered together and tried to fire it up, but instead of the cool "ooooooo" moment I was hoping for, all I had was a "doh!" moment.
Here is my setup/symptoms...
I am powering the board with a 200ma 9v wall wart.
The onboard LED will not light up.
Nothing on the LCD
I can measure the correct voltages across both voltage regulators, the vin pin on both AVRs, and at any of the 5v or 3.3v expansion pins.
When I try to upload test code, the arduino software gives me an AVRDude error basically saying that I have the wrong type of board selected. (from what I can figure out) I have tried every ATMEGA328 board option in the software.
Any ideas or hints on where I should start troubleshooting?
I finally got my board soldered together and tried to fire it up, but instead of the cool "ooooooo" moment I was hoping for, all I had was a "doh!" moment.
Here is my setup/symptoms...
I am powering the board with a 200ma 9v wall wart.
The onboard LED will not light up.
Nothing on the LCD
I can measure the correct voltages across both voltage regulators, the vin pin on both AVRs, and at any of the 5v or 3.3v expansion pins.
When I try to upload test code, the arduino software gives me an AVRDude error basically saying that I have the wrong type of board selected. (from what I can figure out) I have tried every ATMEGA328 board option in the software.
Any ideas or hints on where I should start troubleshooting?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Is the power LED in correctly? That part of the circuit is dirt simple and if there is a proper voltage at the reg, the LED should be lit.
Is the entire board populated? Do you have proper negative voltages around the pH circuit?
Where did you get your avrs? What are you using between the ftdi header and the PC? Have you ever uploaded code to another arduino from this pc?
Many bootloaded avrs sold for use in arduinos come with the blink sketch pre-loaded so you can test the arduino independent of a pc. Find out if yours came like this from your vendor and if so, test with an LED and resistor on pin 13.
What version is your pcb?
Is the entire board populated? Do you have proper negative voltages around the pH circuit?
Where did you get your avrs? What are you using between the ftdi header and the PC? Have you ever uploaded code to another arduino from this pc?
Many bootloaded avrs sold for use in arduinos come with the blink sketch pre-loaded so you can test the arduino independent of a pc. Find out if yours came like this from your vendor and if so, test with an LED and resistor on pin 13.
What version is your pcb?
TheFishMan65
New member
Some people reported that the connector needs to b reversed. Can you plug the download cable in upside down/backwards?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
That is certainly possible.
I would pull off the lcd and anything else you can reemove until you are sure the circuit is sound.
I would pull off the lcd and anything else you can reemove until you are sure the circuit is sound.
TheFishMan65
New member
Some people reported that the connector needs to b reversed. Can you plug the download cable in upside down/backwards?
Yep, the LED was backwards.. I have that sorted out, so now maybe it is down to the programming?
The board is populated completely.
I havent tested the voltages around the ph circuit, I dont have a probe yet, so I didnt think to test there. I'll do that next.
I am using a 5v FTDI cable from mouser.. 895-TTL-232R-5V
I got the AVRs at modern devices. It is the ATMEGA328p with optiboot.
I am able to upload from the same PC to a different ATMEGA board with no issues.
The PCB is 3.0, I think. I downloaded the files from http://hydra-reef.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/hardware/hydra/ back in August, so I think it is current.
I tested for voltages around the ph circuit and they are there and change when I adjust the trimpots.
I wired an LED and a resistor to each AVR's pin 13 and the blink sketch seems to be running.
I have disconnected the LCD for troubleshooting.
I am starting to think that it is something to do with the arduino software. What board should I be choosing? I am using version 0022, has anyone had any problems with that version and the hydra?
I wired an LED and a resistor to each AVR's pin 13 and the blink sketch seems to be running.
I have disconnected the LCD for troubleshooting.
I am starting to think that it is something to do with the arduino software. What board should I be choosing? I am using version 0022, has anyone had any problems with that version and the hydra?
