My 45 gallon build
- Thread starter Joeb1983
- Start date
Joeb1983
Member
Im getting to the point where I am considereing not using them as well...
The tank is not heavily stocked by any means and I definitly do not overfeed.
1 x basslet
1 x blue hermit
1 x Emerald crab
and some snails...
Coral are just some small frags Ive been picking up here and there. From my buddies, swaps or rescues.
1 x BOP birdsnest
1 x neon green birdsnest
1 x red/orange monti cap
1 x orange monti setosa
1 x Red Lobo brain *rough shape, but getting better*
1 x encrusting monti (meteor shower) *Still on plug, not sure I even like it*
3 x standard green hammers I fragged (two 2 heads and one 4) *using them for future trades*
and the newest addition as of yesterday some single head torch frags. *Liked the colors.*
1 x Neon green with gold tips
1 x Purple with neon green tips
1 x Green with blueish puple tips.
The purple with neon green tips seems to have some branching like a frogspawn... Who knows, but it looks cool.
Anyways, within 3-4 days after changing the sock is overflowing again. So thats getting pretty old, but they are easy to change. The hard part is keeping them all washed and ready between multiple tanks.
Within the confines of my small 20gal long sump I need to have the heater secured in a dedicated space. Plus I am OCD when it comes to things and I hate it sometimes... lol!
The tank is not heavily stocked by any means and I definitly do not overfeed.
1 x basslet
1 x blue hermit
1 x Emerald crab
and some snails...
Coral are just some small frags Ive been picking up here and there. From my buddies, swaps or rescues.
1 x BOP birdsnest
1 x neon green birdsnest
1 x red/orange monti cap
1 x orange monti setosa
1 x Red Lobo brain *rough shape, but getting better*
1 x encrusting monti (meteor shower) *Still on plug, not sure I even like it*
3 x standard green hammers I fragged (two 2 heads and one 4) *using them for future trades*
and the newest addition as of yesterday some single head torch frags. *Liked the colors.*
1 x Neon green with gold tips
1 x Purple with neon green tips
1 x Green with blueish puple tips.
The purple with neon green tips seems to have some branching like a frogspawn... Who knows, but it looks cool.
Anyways, within 3-4 days after changing the sock is overflowing again. So thats getting pretty old, but they are easy to change. The hard part is keeping them all washed and ready between multiple tanks.
Within the confines of my small 20gal long sump I need to have the heater secured in a dedicated space. Plus I am OCD when it comes to things and I hate it sometimes... lol!
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Joeb1983
Member
Attached are some day pics of the torches. The purple one looks funky like i said... Still have no clue the direction I want to go with the tank. LPS, SPS or just a combo of everything. I know I am limited in space and I definitley do not want a cluttered tank. Just a colorful one.
I have noticed that my corals are lightning up. Most obvious is my Monti Cap. I got frag from my friend and fragged it in 2 pieces and put one in each of my tanks.
The tank with Coralife lighting is still dark orange and has not grown that much at all and is the same exact shape as when I put it in.
The frag that is in my new tank with the ATI lighthing has a TON of new growth but has faded to more a pastel light orange. It also is changing shape nicely. Hard to believe they both were cut from the same cloth per say.
I understand lighting, placement and flow play a huge roll with Monti Caps and pretty much every other coral out there... My hammers that were moved from the CL tank to the ATI tank are plumper than ever, but are turning a translucent, pastelly and softer green.
Over the past few days Ive been researching corals fading and holy crap there is everything about it including the kitchen sink! Ive contributed mine to the lighting and seeing how they have only been in there a short while. They are just adapting seeing how I am noticing great growth and my params are good and stable.
You can see the red brain in the pics. When I got it, its skeleton was showing all the way around and it was tight/skinny to the point the skeleton was poking through in numerous places. I brushed off the algae and crap that was on it off with a toothbrush, trimmed and dipped it. I target feed twice a week and keep my params golden. After only a week its healing pretty nicely. I know its just a red brain, but I love this ones color.
Oh, the wife gave me a deadline to stain & poly the stand and have it in place by Christmas. I will admit I have been putting it off... :hmm2:
I have noticed that my corals are lightning up. Most obvious is my Monti Cap. I got frag from my friend and fragged it in 2 pieces and put one in each of my tanks.
The tank with Coralife lighting is still dark orange and has not grown that much at all and is the same exact shape as when I put it in.
The frag that is in my new tank with the ATI lighthing has a TON of new growth but has faded to more a pastel light orange. It also is changing shape nicely. Hard to believe they both were cut from the same cloth per say.
I understand lighting, placement and flow play a huge roll with Monti Caps and pretty much every other coral out there... My hammers that were moved from the CL tank to the ATI tank are plumper than ever, but are turning a translucent, pastelly and softer green.
Over the past few days Ive been researching corals fading and holy crap there is everything about it including the kitchen sink! Ive contributed mine to the lighting and seeing how they have only been in there a short while. They are just adapting seeing how I am noticing great growth and my params are good and stable.
You can see the red brain in the pics. When I got it, its skeleton was showing all the way around and it was tight/skinny to the point the skeleton was poking through in numerous places. I brushed off the algae and crap that was on it off with a toothbrush, trimmed and dipped it. I target feed twice a week and keep my params golden. After only a week its healing pretty nicely. I know its just a red brain, but I love this ones color.
Oh, the wife gave me a deadline to stain & poly the stand and have it in place by Christmas. I will admit I have been putting it off... :hmm2:
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Joeb1983
Member
Decided to try going sockless and see for myself how it goes, such as params, gunk in sump, water clarity, etc... In the meantime I have 5 more socks coming.
I designed and built a "bubble can" to reduce the violent trashing water full of bubbles and to keep micro bubbles out of the dispay my bubble trap missed. So far it has worked great and really quiets the overflow and works wonders for bubbles.
Basically, I went to Home Depot and got some stuff (labeled in the attached paint doc) and started building. I wanted to open the 1-1/2" overflow and have a "diffuser" per say. So I opened it up to 2". The T & cap combo was to direct the flow towards the back wall of the can opposite the vent.
I did have to cut the 2" T-fitting for it to fit in the can. It is cut on an angle in hopes of bubble diversion towards the top.
As far as the cans vent; I simply traced a rectangle with a marker and used a Dremel. Same for the top lid, but rather with a circle.
The 4" pvc can be rotated in the base cap to direct outlet flow. Same for the internal portion to find the sweet spot for bubble reduction. As you might tell from the pic the internal part decends just barely above the bottom and sits directly in front of the vent causing flow around either side. No flow issues what so ever.
Oh, and I tried it last night... A sock can be placed inside as well, but the lid just simply sits on the socks plastic ring. Only issue is the socks length that has to be folded, but a taller can would help with that. Either way, it was fun and I like making things. lol!
I designed and built a "bubble can" to reduce the violent trashing water full of bubbles and to keep micro bubbles out of the dispay my bubble trap missed. So far it has worked great and really quiets the overflow and works wonders for bubbles.
Basically, I went to Home Depot and got some stuff (labeled in the attached paint doc) and started building. I wanted to open the 1-1/2" overflow and have a "diffuser" per say. So I opened it up to 2". The T & cap combo was to direct the flow towards the back wall of the can opposite the vent.
I did have to cut the 2" T-fitting for it to fit in the can. It is cut on an angle in hopes of bubble diversion towards the top.
As far as the cans vent; I simply traced a rectangle with a marker and used a Dremel. Same for the top lid, but rather with a circle.
The 4" pvc can be rotated in the base cap to direct outlet flow. Same for the internal portion to find the sweet spot for bubble reduction. As you might tell from the pic the internal part decends just barely above the bottom and sits directly in front of the vent causing flow around either side. No flow issues what so ever.
Oh, and I tried it last night... A sock can be placed inside as well, but the lid just simply sits on the socks plastic ring. Only issue is the socks length that has to be folded, but a taller can would help with that. Either way, it was fun and I like making things. lol!
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Joeb1983
Member
Well, I can say I tried sockless. Ordered a bulk pack of 300 micron mesh socks to give a go. So far so good. A ton easier to change out and clean for that matter over the thick felt ones.
Things I noticed while sockless was the skimmer was pulling much darker skimmate and production almost doubled. (Obviously due to the lack of the sock catching things)
I also found that my glass was getting dirty twice as fast as before and my sump was accumulating debries.
I did see my LPS perk up a little. Nothing drastic. SPS seemed to have more polyp extension. All seems to be well with the mesh.
Finally will get to the sides of the base and start the stain process this weekend if the weather permits.
Back to lighting: I have noticed as I said before that most of my corals seemd to be lightening to what I determined to be too high of PAR. I decided to throw in the ATI true actinic in place of one of the blue plus's. The other bulbs seem to completley wash out the actinic to the point you can barely tell it is even on...
I know the actinic is on the low spectrum of what we as humans can see and its wavelengths are much different than that of a full spectrum bulb etc, etc..
Ill let it ride for a while and see if things darken a bit. So far I have noticed more polyp extension on my monti's. I also added an egg-crate top to the tank to diffuse things a bit. Lighting seems more soft, but directed into the tank.
Things I noticed while sockless was the skimmer was pulling much darker skimmate and production almost doubled. (Obviously due to the lack of the sock catching things)
I also found that my glass was getting dirty twice as fast as before and my sump was accumulating debries.
I did see my LPS perk up a little. Nothing drastic. SPS seemed to have more polyp extension. All seems to be well with the mesh.
Finally will get to the sides of the base and start the stain process this weekend if the weather permits.
Back to lighting: I have noticed as I said before that most of my corals seemd to be lightening to what I determined to be too high of PAR. I decided to throw in the ATI true actinic in place of one of the blue plus's. The other bulbs seem to completley wash out the actinic to the point you can barely tell it is even on...
I know the actinic is on the low spectrum of what we as humans can see and its wavelengths are much different than that of a full spectrum bulb etc, etc..
Ill let it ride for a while and see if things darken a bit. So far I have noticed more polyp extension on my monti's. I also added an egg-crate top to the tank to diffuse things a bit. Lighting seems more soft, but directed into the tank.
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Joeb1983
Member
I had someone advise me to remove just about everything from my sump for the following reasons:
* Too cluttered
* Detritus trap
* Tanks too young
* Equipment is fighting cycles preventing stabilization
* Not good for SPS the way it is
Again the tank is 5 months old. I do not have any perameter swings and everything is/has been stable. Believe or not a lot of thought and design went into the sump/equipment.
Everything is quick disconnect and user friendly although it appears packed. I have no problems on my end...
I understand its my tank and I can do whatever I want, but I would like to hear your thoughts on this suggestion, so let me know.
* Too cluttered
* Detritus trap
* Tanks too young
* Equipment is fighting cycles preventing stabilization
* Not good for SPS the way it is
Again the tank is 5 months old. I do not have any perameter swings and everything is/has been stable. Believe or not a lot of thought and design went into the sump/equipment.
Everything is quick disconnect and user friendly although it appears packed. I have no problems on my end...
I understand its my tank and I can do whatever I want, but I would like to hear your thoughts on this suggestion, so let me know.
Joeb1983
Member
Picked up a pair of black snowflake/phantom clowns for the 45. (Xmas gift for myself)
The wife wants to keep our ocellaris pair seing how they were, like many, our first SW fish.
So, they will get there own nano just for them.
Bought a 15 gallon and I used rock, sand, paint and LED's I had laying around (leftovers) and ordered a Hydor nano for some flow. Came out pretty clean.
I have a 6 head frogspawn Ill throw in when the time comes for the clowns and let the wife pick the zo's, shrooms and what not.
*** Oh, Since adding/substituting the 2 true actinincs and eggcrate on the 45, I have noticed more color appearing on the rock than I have in the last 5 months... ***
Hopefully its a good sign of good things to come.
The wife wants to keep our ocellaris pair seing how they were, like many, our first SW fish.
So, they will get there own nano just for them.
Bought a 15 gallon and I used rock, sand, paint and LED's I had laying around (leftovers) and ordered a Hydor nano for some flow. Came out pretty clean.
I have a 6 head frogspawn Ill throw in when the time comes for the clowns and let the wife pick the zo's, shrooms and what not.
*** Oh, Since adding/substituting the 2 true actinincs and eggcrate on the 45, I have noticed more color appearing on the rock than I have in the last 5 months... ***
Hopefully its a good sign of good things to come.
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ReeferChris405
New member
real nice tank
Joeb1983
Member
Just came across this again and figured I'd throw a little update in for those interested.
First off, the lighting/tank coloration was fixed for/to my tastes with 2 x true actinic, 1 x coral plus and 1 x blue plus. Things are growing great and if anyone followed my coral fading issue, it was just them acclimating to the new lighting. All is well there now and I learned something new.
In regards to lighting, having a hood with a "sit on top" T5 HO fixture incorporated created a heat issue that has to be modulated with the ceiling fan. Not an issue for the fixture, but rather my tank temp. (AI LED's on the way)
The "bubble can" I made as stated before worked, but allowed gunk to accumulate in the sump. So back to socks. The mesh bags work, but I prefer the felt ones for sure.
The reactors: I put them on hold some time back while the tank was maturing as there honestly wasn't a need for them... (Maybe carbon if anything for more clarity). They still are on standby to this day and my parameters are spot on.
I did notice rapid coloration on the dry rock once I suspended use of the reactors. (More in a month than in 4)
The tank is still unfinished to this day and my wife is about to kill me!.. Haha! I decided to actually paint it rather than stain and poly it.
I came across Rustoluem's painters touch oil rubbed bronze that to me looks amazing on wood. A lot of people refinish furniture and cabinets with it and it really pops with the wood grain. (Did a test piece of crown, came out great!)
Ill be painting the hood this weekend and Ill throw some pics up.
First off, the lighting/tank coloration was fixed for/to my tastes with 2 x true actinic, 1 x coral plus and 1 x blue plus. Things are growing great and if anyone followed my coral fading issue, it was just them acclimating to the new lighting. All is well there now and I learned something new.
In regards to lighting, having a hood with a "sit on top" T5 HO fixture incorporated created a heat issue that has to be modulated with the ceiling fan. Not an issue for the fixture, but rather my tank temp. (AI LED's on the way)
The "bubble can" I made as stated before worked, but allowed gunk to accumulate in the sump. So back to socks. The mesh bags work, but I prefer the felt ones for sure.
The reactors: I put them on hold some time back while the tank was maturing as there honestly wasn't a need for them... (Maybe carbon if anything for more clarity). They still are on standby to this day and my parameters are spot on.
I did notice rapid coloration on the dry rock once I suspended use of the reactors. (More in a month than in 4)
The tank is still unfinished to this day and my wife is about to kill me!.. Haha! I decided to actually paint it rather than stain and poly it.
I came across Rustoluem's painters touch oil rubbed bronze that to me looks amazing on wood. A lot of people refinish furniture and cabinets with it and it really pops with the wood grain. (Did a test piece of crown, came out great!)
Ill be painting the hood this weekend and Ill throw some pics up.
Joeb1983
Member
Had to dial the LED's back a lot more than I did originally as they caused bleaching worse than when I switched to quality T5 HO bulbs...
Color and growth is not there like with my T5's but I'm trying. I think a lot has to do due the the lack of full spectrum especially UV and with the LED being more direct light vs the T5's flooding/filling light.
Color and growth is not there like with my T5's but I'm trying. I think a lot has to do due the the lack of full spectrum especially UV and with the LED being more direct light vs the T5's flooding/filling light.
Joeb1983
Member
You are correct and yes, she is MAD!
Honestly, I am not liking the switch to LED's at all unfortunately... Color of the tank is appealing to the eye and close to what it looked like under the T5's, although it lacks the pop.
The look and size of the fixtures are awesome. Mounting is sleek and I couldn't be happier there. Temp, efficiency, and bulb replacement costs were the driving factors for the switch.
For my budget I had to buy used... I needed 2 fixtures for this tank, one for my 60 and one for my new shallow build.
I was torn between the Vega color and the original Hydra. The Vega was built better, had more upgrade options and controllability, but the Hydra had more colors including "UV"...
I decided obviously on the Vega's and bought 4 fixtures from several people here on RC.
The 45's corals took the biggest hit. They just look sad... Bleaching, growth has halted, expansion lessoned, my candy cane that could survive a nuclear blast is even looking rough.
I knew bleaching would occur switching to LED's so I looked at countless threads for general settings that would help combat that and utilized the coral acclimation mode via the controller.
I'm tired of messing with settings, researching, messing with settings, researching some more, testing water (always fine) messing with settings. Coming across Vega's suck after the fact when all my research beforehand showed them as a solid fixture. lol!
The 60 is a FOWLR currently so it doesn't matter as of now.
In regards to the shallow build, I just purchased a original Hydra to see if I will have any luck given the additional spectrums. I read that it could be due to lack of the UV spectrum... Who knows.
T5's, although pricey to replace bulbs every 6-8 months, was SO much simpler. Although $800+ could have bought me a few bulbs I guess... :idea:
Honestly, I am not liking the switch to LED's at all unfortunately... Color of the tank is appealing to the eye and close to what it looked like under the T5's, although it lacks the pop.
The look and size of the fixtures are awesome. Mounting is sleek and I couldn't be happier there. Temp, efficiency, and bulb replacement costs were the driving factors for the switch.
For my budget I had to buy used... I needed 2 fixtures for this tank, one for my 60 and one for my new shallow build.
I was torn between the Vega color and the original Hydra. The Vega was built better, had more upgrade options and controllability, but the Hydra had more colors including "UV"...
I decided obviously on the Vega's and bought 4 fixtures from several people here on RC.
The 45's corals took the biggest hit. They just look sad... Bleaching, growth has halted, expansion lessoned, my candy cane that could survive a nuclear blast is even looking rough.
I knew bleaching would occur switching to LED's so I looked at countless threads for general settings that would help combat that and utilized the coral acclimation mode via the controller.
I'm tired of messing with settings, researching, messing with settings, researching some more, testing water (always fine) messing with settings. Coming across Vega's suck after the fact when all my research beforehand showed them as a solid fixture. lol!
The 60 is a FOWLR currently so it doesn't matter as of now.
In regards to the shallow build, I just purchased a original Hydra to see if I will have any luck given the additional spectrums. I read that it could be due to lack of the UV spectrum... Who knows.
T5's, although pricey to replace bulbs every 6-8 months, was SO much simpler. Although $800+ could have bought me a few bulbs I guess... :idea:
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