My 500 + gallon system. Last 13 years to now. Build, Aquascaping & more. Lots of pics
- Thread starter slief
- Start date
Let me know what your water tests came up with. Im really intrigued at the Instant Ocean sea salt.
Marc
slief
RC Sponsor
I have a bit of an update.. :dance:
Those of you who have followed this thread will remember that I adapted some Koralia pumps to mount to bulk heads that were once upon a time dedicated to my external recirc pumps.
I had been contemplating controllable pumps for some time. Contemplation is over.. Tunze two 6205's will replace one Koralia 1200 and one 1400. These mounts will allow me mount them to the existing bulkheads and route the wires out of the back of the tank. They will work within the frame work of my back wall aquascape and not be obtrusive as my back wall is built around these bulk heads.
They were made from PVC fittings which I painted using Krylon paint. No glue used. They slip together which will allow me to adjust things to get the pumps in optimal placement. I removed the Tunze clamp from the magnet and used a nylon nut and bolt to hold the pump clamp to my PVC contraption. If you pay close attention, you will notice that I desoldered a little box at the end of the Tunze cable to get the wires through my mount. Shhhhh! :mixed:
This is how the wires exit the back side of the tank.
Initially they will be controlled from via a Tunze 7906. Once I determine the flow and pattern that works best for my tank, I'll translate that to the Apex and ditch the 7906.The two Tunze pumps will be in by this weekend. That will leave me two additional Koralia 1200's in the tank which also be phased out and replaced by Tunze 6105's or 6205's in the near future.
More to come this weekend! I expect the results will be very dramatic in terms of what I will be able to do with the flow in the tank.
LED's won't go in until next week at the soonest but the Tunze project is enough for now. :bounce3:
Jason,
No issue with nuclear fallout here..... yet. :bigeyes:
Pray for our friends in Japan though!
Those of you who have followed this thread will remember that I adapted some Koralia pumps to mount to bulk heads that were once upon a time dedicated to my external recirc pumps.
I had been contemplating controllable pumps for some time. Contemplation is over.. Tunze two 6205's will replace one Koralia 1200 and one 1400. These mounts will allow me mount them to the existing bulkheads and route the wires out of the back of the tank. They will work within the frame work of my back wall aquascape and not be obtrusive as my back wall is built around these bulk heads.
They were made from PVC fittings which I painted using Krylon paint. No glue used. They slip together which will allow me to adjust things to get the pumps in optimal placement. I removed the Tunze clamp from the magnet and used a nylon nut and bolt to hold the pump clamp to my PVC contraption. If you pay close attention, you will notice that I desoldered a little box at the end of the Tunze cable to get the wires through my mount. Shhhhh! :mixed:
This is how the wires exit the back side of the tank.
Initially they will be controlled from via a Tunze 7906. Once I determine the flow and pattern that works best for my tank, I'll translate that to the Apex and ditch the 7906.The two Tunze pumps will be in by this weekend. That will leave me two additional Koralia 1200's in the tank which also be phased out and replaced by Tunze 6105's or 6205's in the near future.
More to come this weekend! I expect the results will be very dramatic in terms of what I will be able to do with the flow in the tank.
LED's won't go in until next week at the soonest but the Tunze project is enough for now. :bounce3:
Jason,
No issue with nuclear fallout here..... yet. :bigeyes:
Pray for our friends in Japan though!
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slief
RC Sponsor
Good question. The pump just slides into the clamp. The hole in the PVC that the wire runs through in order to pass through the bulk head is large enough that I can pull wire through it easy and there is plenty of slack on the other side. Pulling the pump out of the clamp and sliding the wire through the contraption will allow me to work on the pumps on the top of the tank. I can dissasemble, soak it in vinager etc. The plumbing on the back side extends above the water level so I don't need to seal the wire into the pipe as there is no risk of leaks regardless of the size hole the wire goes though.
The only down side would be a pump failer in which case I will need to desolder the end of the cable, pull it through and put it back together in order to send the pump in for service. Lets just hope that doesn't happen. If it does, it adds 10 minutes to the job.
You'll love the Tunze scott
You saw what they can do on my tank
It was you and Mr. Brooks that got it into my head! I am looking forward to the results.
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Mr. Brooks
MASVC Member
I dig it!
slief
RC Sponsor
The Tunze's went in last night without a hiccup. Both are mounted on the back wall directed down the length of the tank.
At first I set them up on the 7906 controller but after playing with it last night and this morning I figured out what seemed to work for my tank as far as flow patterns. This morning I went to work on programming my apex to handle them. I spent some reading through the "Unofficial" Apex guide as well other peoples programming examples in the Neptune Forum and came up with and finished the basis for my Apex control.
So far, I have my wave pattern which turns on both 6205's simultaniously at 100% power for .7 seconds and off for .4 seconds. That fraction of second on and off gets a decent pulsing current running the length of my tank. The corals all dance back and forth at short internvals.
I also programmed a night pattern that runs both pumps at 30% when the lights are out. I may switch that to an alternating current or just add that in during the night at specified intervals.
I also created a flush cycle which which alternates one pump off while the other is on at 100% power. Each pump runs for 60 seconds. This creates a current that runs one way in the tank and then the other. The flush kicks on every 60 minutes and runs its cycle for 10 minutes. This is something I will probably adjust as I play with things more.
At first I set them up on the 7906 controller but after playing with it last night and this morning I figured out what seemed to work for my tank as far as flow patterns. This morning I went to work on programming my apex to handle them. I spent some reading through the "Unofficial" Apex guide as well other peoples programming examples in the Neptune Forum and came up with and finished the basis for my Apex control.
So far, I have my wave pattern which turns on both 6205's simultaniously at 100% power for .7 seconds and off for .4 seconds. That fraction of second on and off gets a decent pulsing current running the length of my tank. The corals all dance back and forth at short internvals.
I also programmed a night pattern that runs both pumps at 30% when the lights are out. I may switch that to an alternating current or just add that in during the night at specified intervals.
I also created a flush cycle which which alternates one pump off while the other is on at 100% power. Each pump runs for 60 seconds. This creates a current that runs one way in the tank and then the other. The flush kicks on every 60 minutes and runs its cycle for 10 minutes. This is something I will probably adjust as I play with things more.
Reefsparadise
In Memoriam
very nice tank very jealous nice built
powerlogix
Member
Hey Scott,
Tunze looks nice, I've always watch your clips on LA fish guys, when you set up the LED light rack will there be a video as well?
Thanks
Tunze looks nice, I've always watch your clips on LA fish guys, when you set up the LED light rack will there be a video as well?
Thanks
slief
RC Sponsor
Marc,
The rest of the tests were done today. Still no dosing or anything other than my 25G/week water changes. Salifert test kits were used. I guess a I owe a bit of thanks to Mr. Brooks. He stopped by today and made sure the tests were done. :beer:
MG as of today was 1425. I have been dosing Kent Tech M for 5 days now.
Ca. 380
Alk 8
Thanks!
Thanks. There will be a new video which will include cutting the old light rack out and installing the new one with the LED's. Hopefully that will happen in the next week or so.
I just shot a couple videos post Tunze install.
One of the wave motion
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One of the Anemone post Tunze install. I love its motion now. Its hypnotising.
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slief
RC Sponsor
Over the last few days I have been busy refining and complicating my Tunze programming..... Needless to say I am very pleased with the results... Here is what I have thus far. For those of you with Apex controllers, this will make some sense and you might even find it useful for your own programming. For those of you who are not familiar with these controllers, it will look foreign but I do have some explanations in there.
Also, just to clarify, I am not an expert in programming the Apex. Much of what I have figured out has been largely due to the wealth of infomation available here on the Neptune sponsor section of this site. Much of my programming was code that I found here and modified for my own application. Pump profiles however were based on playing with the pumps flow to see what worked and what didn't for flow scenarios in my tank. Trial and error essentially.
My programming for these things has gotten pretty complex. It leads me to believe that there might have been a more simple approach but since I have not received any feedback to the contrary on the Neptune forum, maybe this is the best approach.
My goal is/was to create a choatic flow during hours that the lights are on with a wind up and wind down period before and after the lights go on or off. Additionally, I wanted a calm period when the lights are off. What I have done is created a number of profiles that include various chaotic flow patterns as well as a calm pattern when the lights are off and the wind up and wind down pattern.
I created several profiles for various flow patterns. Profiles are what the Apex controller uses for different variable speed devices as well as dimmable devices such as LED lights. There is a profile section in the web based controller software where you manage and create these profiles. In my case, these profiles are used to create various flow patterns for the Tunze pumps. Divide by 10 means that when its enabled, seconds become 10ths of a second. Disabled means that seconds are seconds. Syncronize enable allows multiple pumps to turn on and off at the same time. Sync Disable allows them to function asyncronysly. This can be useful for making 2 pumps alternate flow back and forth. I use Sync disable this for my Wave2 to create a wave that is a bit more chaotic between the left and right side of the tank.
My current pump profiles are:
Wave1 (This is my main daylight wave pattern which creates the flow/wave motion shown in the first video above)
Synchronize Enabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 100
Wave2 (Similar pattern to the above but Sync is disabled which creates a bit more chaos with uneven waves on the left and right side of the tank)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 100
Lt_Flush (This is for the left side 6205 flush and when called upon, it controls just the left pump. It will turn the pump on for 30 seconds and off for 30 seconds at 09% power. The cycle repeats for the duration that this profile is active)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 30
Off time (Seconds) 30
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 90
Rt_Flush (Rt 6205 alternate interval of LT_Flush alternates one on while the other is off)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 30
On time (Seconds) 30
Off time (Seconds) 30
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 90
DuskDawn (This is a lower flow wave pattern used intermittantly during the light hours as well as before and after lights go out)
Synchronize Enabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 30
Night (Sets a constant 30% flow during light off hours)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 10
Off time (Seconds) 15
Minimum intensity 30
Maximum intensity 30
I am up to 3 timers. My use for the timers is to create short random periods of different flow during daylight hours. This is one area where I cant help but think there may be an easier approach but since everything is working well, I'm not sure there is much need for change.
Timer1 (turns on every 120 minutes for 10 minutes. If timer 2 is on at that time, it should remain off.
OSC 120:00/010:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Timer2 (turns on every 45 minutes for 15 minutes except if timer 3 is on)
OSC 045:00/015:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Timer3 (turn on every 15 minutes for 5 minutes except if timer 1 is on)
OSC 015:00/005:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
These are the variable speed pumps and their programming. You can see what profiles become active based on specified times as well as when certain timers turn on or off
StreamLtSet Wave1
If Time 10:30 to 11:59 Then duskdawn
If Time 12:00 to 19:00 Then Wave1
If Time 19:01 to 20:00 Then duskdawn
If Time 20:01 to 10:29 Then Night
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then Lt_Flush
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then duskdawn
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then Wave2
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
StreamRt
Set Wave1
If Time 10:30 to 11:59 Then duskdawn
If Time 12:00 to 19:00 Then Wave1
If Time 19:01 to 20:00 Then duskdawn
If Time 20:01 to 10:29 Then Night
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then Rt_Flush
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then duskdawn
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then Wave2
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Thats it for now. Still waiting on the last 2 led fixtures. I also plan on adding 2 additional 6105 pumps in the next week or 2 to go with my pair of 6205's. That said, I absolutely love these pumps and the control I have via my Apex. I wish I had taken the advice of other members and done this upgrade sooner.
Also, just to clarify, I am not an expert in programming the Apex. Much of what I have figured out has been largely due to the wealth of infomation available here on the Neptune sponsor section of this site. Much of my programming was code that I found here and modified for my own application. Pump profiles however were based on playing with the pumps flow to see what worked and what didn't for flow scenarios in my tank. Trial and error essentially.
My programming for these things has gotten pretty complex. It leads me to believe that there might have been a more simple approach but since I have not received any feedback to the contrary on the Neptune forum, maybe this is the best approach.
My goal is/was to create a choatic flow during hours that the lights are on with a wind up and wind down period before and after the lights go on or off. Additionally, I wanted a calm period when the lights are off. What I have done is created a number of profiles that include various chaotic flow patterns as well as a calm pattern when the lights are off and the wind up and wind down pattern.
I created several profiles for various flow patterns. Profiles are what the Apex controller uses for different variable speed devices as well as dimmable devices such as LED lights. There is a profile section in the web based controller software where you manage and create these profiles. In my case, these profiles are used to create various flow patterns for the Tunze pumps. Divide by 10 means that when its enabled, seconds become 10ths of a second. Disabled means that seconds are seconds. Syncronize enable allows multiple pumps to turn on and off at the same time. Sync Disable allows them to function asyncronysly. This can be useful for making 2 pumps alternate flow back and forth. I use Sync disable this for my Wave2 to create a wave that is a bit more chaotic between the left and right side of the tank.
My current pump profiles are:
Wave1 (This is my main daylight wave pattern which creates the flow/wave motion shown in the first video above)
Synchronize Enabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 100
Wave2 (Similar pattern to the above but Sync is disabled which creates a bit more chaos with uneven waves on the left and right side of the tank)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 100
Lt_Flush (This is for the left side 6205 flush and when called upon, it controls just the left pump. It will turn the pump on for 30 seconds and off for 30 seconds at 09% power. The cycle repeats for the duration that this profile is active)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 30
Off time (Seconds) 30
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 90
Rt_Flush (Rt 6205 alternate interval of LT_Flush alternates one on while the other is off)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 30
On time (Seconds) 30
Off time (Seconds) 30
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 90
DuskDawn (This is a lower flow wave pattern used intermittantly during the light hours as well as before and after lights go out)
Synchronize Enabled
Divide by 10 Enabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 7
Off time (Seconds) 4
Minimum intensity 0
Maximum intensity 30
Night (Sets a constant 30% flow during light off hours)
Synchronize Disabled
Divide by 10 Disabled
Initial off time (Seconds) 0
On time (Seconds) 10
Off time (Seconds) 15
Minimum intensity 30
Maximum intensity 30
I am up to 3 timers. My use for the timers is to create short random periods of different flow during daylight hours. This is one area where I cant help but think there may be an easier approach but since everything is working well, I'm not sure there is much need for change.
Timer1 (turns on every 120 minutes for 10 minutes. If timer 2 is on at that time, it should remain off.
OSC 120:00/010:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Timer2 (turns on every 45 minutes for 15 minutes except if timer 3 is on)
OSC 045:00/015:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Timer3 (turn on every 15 minutes for 5 minutes except if timer 1 is on)
OSC 015:00/005:00/000:00 Then ON
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then OFF
If Time 19:30 to 11:30 Then OFF
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
These are the variable speed pumps and their programming. You can see what profiles become active based on specified times as well as when certain timers turn on or off
StreamLtSet Wave1
If Time 10:30 to 11:59 Then duskdawn
If Time 12:00 to 19:00 Then Wave1
If Time 19:01 to 20:00 Then duskdawn
If Time 20:01 to 10:29 Then Night
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then Lt_Flush
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then duskdawn
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then Wave2
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
StreamRt
Set Wave1
If Time 10:30 to 11:59 Then duskdawn
If Time 12:00 to 19:00 Then Wave1
If Time 19:01 to 20:00 Then duskdawn
If Time 20:01 to 10:29 Then Night
If Outlet Timer1 = ON Then Rt_Flush
If Outlet Timer2 = ON Then duskdawn
If Outlet Timer3 = ON Then Wave2
If FeedA 000 Then OFF
Thats it for now. Still waiting on the last 2 led fixtures. I also plan on adding 2 additional 6105 pumps in the next week or 2 to go with my pair of 6205's. That said, I absolutely love these pumps and the control I have via my Apex. I wish I had taken the advice of other members and done this upgrade sooner.
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Tunze is way to expensive for my taste, but they are like Snap On Tools, the best products money can buy.
Marc
slief
RC Sponsor
Unfortunately I am still waiting on my last 2 LED fixtures to arrive but that has not stopped the progress.
In an effort to improve the quality of my water, my plan has been to add Ozone once again to my system. Earlier in the thread I posted pictures of my DIY Ozone reactor.. Well I decided not to move forward with that one and went a different route.
After speaking to 3 different Ozone reactor manufacturers, I went with the Avast Mutiny III. Justin at Avast Marine was extremely helpful and knowledgable and responsive which really helped me make my decision as to which way to go.
The reactor arrived today and I have to say that I think I made the right choice. This is a very well made unit. It utilizes venturi injector to aid in atomizing the ozone into the water. The water/ozone combination is dumped into a drip plate which insures that the water mix is adequetly distributed over the reactor medium as it makes it way to the bottom of the reactor. From there, its drive up a stand pipe and out of the reactor. The reactor is about 22" tall and is constructed out of a 6" diameter acrylic cylinder. The quality of this unit is as nice as I have ever seen. They offer this reactor assembled as well as in DIY form with glue included.. I chose to go with Assembled.
The reactor includes an air meter to insure that the air/ozone pressure going into the reactor is sufficient. An Luft air pump will be used to drive the ozone into the venturi and 3PSI is the target air pressure. I had a stainless steel liquid filled pressure gauge from my DIY reactor so I had Justin add a threaded port on the top of the reactor so I could install it as well. The additional pressure gauge will give me the ability to monitor pressure inside of the reactor. Since the reactors effluent will be run through a carbon reactor, having this pressure gauge will give me the ability to tell when my carbon is getting clogged reducing flow and increasing pressure inside the reactor.
That said, I have to admit that I am EXTREMELY impressed with this unit and its quality. You can tell they put a lot of thought into the design and didn't cut any corners. Couple that with their responsive nature and excellent pre and post sales support and you have the makings of a really great company! If I ever need any other reactors of any type, Avast will be my first call. For those of you who are not familiar with them, they are a board sponsor and have a section in the vendor area of this forum as well as a nice website.
Back to the topic.
I used to run a Red Sea Aquazone Plus 200 ozonizor on the tank which was run through a skimmer. The new reactor will be using an Ozotech Poseidon 200Mg/Hr unit. If I find that the 200Mg isn't enough, I will add a second Poseidon.
The ozone initially will be controlled by my Apex. I plan on adding an ORP controller to control the Ozone and at that point, my Apex will become the failsafe.
With a bit of luck, I will have it installed tonight and will update the thread.
In the mean time, here are a couple crappy pictures of my new Avast Marine Ozone reactor.
In an effort to improve the quality of my water, my plan has been to add Ozone once again to my system. Earlier in the thread I posted pictures of my DIY Ozone reactor.. Well I decided not to move forward with that one and went a different route.
After speaking to 3 different Ozone reactor manufacturers, I went with the Avast Mutiny III. Justin at Avast Marine was extremely helpful and knowledgable and responsive which really helped me make my decision as to which way to go.
The reactor arrived today and I have to say that I think I made the right choice. This is a very well made unit. It utilizes venturi injector to aid in atomizing the ozone into the water. The water/ozone combination is dumped into a drip plate which insures that the water mix is adequetly distributed over the reactor medium as it makes it way to the bottom of the reactor. From there, its drive up a stand pipe and out of the reactor. The reactor is about 22" tall and is constructed out of a 6" diameter acrylic cylinder. The quality of this unit is as nice as I have ever seen. They offer this reactor assembled as well as in DIY form with glue included.. I chose to go with Assembled.
The reactor includes an air meter to insure that the air/ozone pressure going into the reactor is sufficient. An Luft air pump will be used to drive the ozone into the venturi and 3PSI is the target air pressure. I had a stainless steel liquid filled pressure gauge from my DIY reactor so I had Justin add a threaded port on the top of the reactor so I could install it as well. The additional pressure gauge will give me the ability to monitor pressure inside of the reactor. Since the reactors effluent will be run through a carbon reactor, having this pressure gauge will give me the ability to tell when my carbon is getting clogged reducing flow and increasing pressure inside the reactor.
That said, I have to admit that I am EXTREMELY impressed with this unit and its quality. You can tell they put a lot of thought into the design and didn't cut any corners. Couple that with their responsive nature and excellent pre and post sales support and you have the makings of a really great company! If I ever need any other reactors of any type, Avast will be my first call. For those of you who are not familiar with them, they are a board sponsor and have a section in the vendor area of this forum as well as a nice website.
Back to the topic.
I used to run a Red Sea Aquazone Plus 200 ozonizor on the tank which was run through a skimmer. The new reactor will be using an Ozotech Poseidon 200Mg/Hr unit. If I find that the 200Mg isn't enough, I will add a second Poseidon.
The ozone initially will be controlled by my Apex. I plan on adding an ORP controller to control the Ozone and at that point, my Apex will become the failsafe.
With a bit of luck, I will have it installed tonight and will update the thread.
In the mean time, here are a couple crappy pictures of my new Avast Marine Ozone reactor.
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Unfortunately I am still waiting on my last 2 LED fixtures to arrive but that has not stopped the progress.
In an effort to improve the quality of my water, my plan has been to add Ozone once again to my system. Earlier in the thread I posted pictures of my DIY Ozone reactor.. Well I decided not to move forward with that one and went a different route.
After speaking to 3 different Ozone reactor manufacturers, I went with the Avast Mutiny III. Justin at Avast Marine was extremely helpful and knowledgable and responsive which really helped me make my decision as to which way to go.
The reactor arrived today and I have to say that I think I made the right choice. This is a very well made unit. It utilizes venturi injector to aid in atomizing the ozone into the water. The water/ozone combination is dumped into a drip plate which insures that the water mix is adequetly distributed over the reactor medium as it makes it way to the bottom of the reactor. From there, its drive up a stand pipe and out of the reactor. The reactor is about 22" tall and is constructed out of a 6" diameter acrylic cylinder. The quality of this unit is as nice as I have ever seen. They offer this reactor assembled as well as in DIY form with glue included.. I chose to go with Assembled.
The reactor includes an air meter to insure that the air/ozone pressure going into the reactor is sufficient. An Luft air pump will be used to drive the ozone into the venturi and 3PSI is the target air pressure. I had a stainless steel liquid filled pressure gauge from my DIY reactor so I had Justin add a threaded port on the top of the reactor so I could install it as well. The additional pressure gauge will give me the ability to monitor pressure inside of the reactor. Since the reactors effluent will be run through a carbon reactor, having this pressure gauge will give me the ability to tell when my carbon is getting clogged reducing flow and increasing pressure inside the reactor.
That said, I have to admit that I am EXTREMELY impressed with this unit and its quality. You can tell they put a lot of thought into the design and didn't cut any corners. Couple that with their responsive nature and excellent pre and post sales support and you have the makings of a really great company! If I ever need any other reactors of any type, Avast will be my first call. For those of you who are not familiar with them, they are a board sponsor and have a section in the vendor area of this forum as well as a nice website.
Back to the topic.
I used to run a Red Sea Aquazone Plus 200 ozonizor on the tank which was run through a skimmer. The new reactor will be using an Ozotech Poseidon 200Mg/Hr unit. If I find that the 200Mg isn't enough, I will add a second Poseidon.
The ozone initially will be controlled by my Apex. I plan on adding an ORP controller to control the Ozone and at that point, my Apex will become the failsafe.
With a bit of luck, I will have it installed tonight and will update the thread.
In the mean time, here are a couple crappy pictures of my new Avast Marine Ozone reactor.
Scott,
For your tank size the Posieden will not be enough. For your tank size you would need a least 500 mg hr unit. Also are all the O rings or gaskets in the reactor ozone safe? With the type of reactor you have they easily leak ozone inside your house so be sure to smell around the unit when in it's operation to make sure it's not leaking ozone. Trust me Ive seen it happen especially when the O rings get brittle. I personally use my 5 foot tall venturi skimmer to blow off excess ozone out the top where a carbon cap is installed in the collection cup of course. Hope this was helpful.
Marc
dahenley
New member
whats the gray pip/cap fitting on the base of the reactor? i always wondered what it was for?
and it looks nice! (i like the mini injector on top)
(by running a 200mg/hr ozone, i guess its undersized, but if something happens and it runs all the time, it shouldnt hurt anything in theory right??)
im new to Ozone (cant you tell)
and it looks nice! (i like the mini injector on top)
(by running a 200mg/hr ozone, i guess its undersized, but if something happens and it runs all the time, it shouldnt hurt anything in theory right??)
im new to Ozone (cant you tell)
slief
RC Sponsor
I would expect the orings to be ozone safe since its a purpose built reactor. I will certainly be keeping a watchful nose out for any stray ozone.
As for the size or the Ozone unit, I thought or think the same thing. Ozotech steered me away from the larger model and Justin from Avast indicated that based on my current ORP, the 200 might work as well. My ORP without ozone is between 335 and 360. They indicated that the 200 should be sufficient perhaps based on my existing ORP. Worst case, I will double up. I had the Red Sea 200 on it a while back and it seemed to hold its own when I was running it but I'm prepared to add an additional Posiedon if need be and am already working on that contingency.
I asked the same thing about the gray cap. The base for the Ozone reactor is also used on their calcium reactor. Instead of making a new base, they both use common parts so that cap is there for absolutely nothing.
Nothing wrong with being under powered on the Ozone with exception that the ozonator could need servicing more frequently due to running more. Ultimately my tanks ORP and the run time of the Posiedon will be the deciding factor as to whether I need to increase the ozone volume.
I am already working on acquiring a slightly used Orp controller that includes another Posieden unit.
I just finished installing the reactor. It went pretty smooth though I do have a minor leak at the venturi that I need to address. Damn teflon tape!! I shut the reactor down for the night and will address that tomorrow. From there I willl let it run for 24 hours to insure there are no leaks at which point I will fire the Posiedon up.
I will post some pics of the install later tonight if not tomorrow. Once I have it back up and running I will take a quick video of it in action.
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