biggles
Premium Member
First off biggles, I doubt most reefers, myself included, would include such a detailed description of their cockups.......so Thanks!!!
While, we know that rapid changes are never good, I've always heard that reducing PO4 too fast leads to RTN etc. Have never seen this side of the scale, where PO4 has risen too fast. I honestly would never have expected the acros to react so dramatically, so thanks to you ... I have learnt
Hey Bello, whilst i don't really enjoy documenting the results of things going out of whack i think for those newer to SPS keeping it's highly likely they'll encounter many of the situations i routinely put my acros through and what i do to 1. correct the issue, and 2. minimise the impact on the acros has been learned through repeated goofing over the years.
My journal is just the way i do things and why i do them and i know a lot of it must be quite boring and at times annoying to many of you who have experience keeping SPS but going into detail and pics make it a lot easier for someone nervously venturing into SPS keeping.
Here though is a little bit of info i bet most aren't aware of. If you have two acros encrusting towards each other most times the most aggressive one will be the one encrusting faster. If you chip away the edge of the agro one with a chisel etc it will begin re-ecrusting within days but if you burn the edge with hot RO the acro shuts down encrusting along that edge for much longer. As soon as you see signs of any recovery simply burn it again and in the majority of cases the agro acro will stop trying to encrust in that direction totally.
Cut the tip of an acro branch and on another nuke it with boiling hot RO whilst in the tank and in 90% of cases the cut tip will be way ahead of the burnt tip in recovery a month later. I noticed this from doing both many times over the years and in this tank. I think that cutting and chipping is mimicking one off storm/fish damage whereas nuking the flesh only is mimicking the exact scenario of an acro's tissue being eaten off its skeleton by the mesenterial filaments of another. There are always exceptions to the rule but in the vast majority of cases you will see much better results using a syringe to stop an acro encrusting than you will with physical damage to the actual skeleton. See that's how easily i slip into a short ramble Bello...... the same scientific observations were noted by Prof Thumbumper of the Wikidiki aquarium and later published on the back of the staff loo door - 2011....... i told you i could back up my claims........
I basically use a rule of thumb when correcting goofs, the faster the goof was brought on by you the faster you should correct it. If phos rose to 0.15 over 2 weeks i wouldn't try to rip it back down fast. If you spike alk overnight to say 10 from where it was at 8 do you really thing the corals have become accustomed in any way to what is a toxic level to them yet i see guys told to lower it down slowly to prevent further stress - wrong. 12 hours after jumping from 8 to 10 the very best thing you can do is put it straight back to where it should be as fast as possible. If it rose to 10 over 2 weeks of course it's feasible that the acros are slowly adjusting, not adjusted but adjusting (as is the whole tank btw) so lowering it back suddenly may well shock the corals. So always think about how long something took to occur before deciding on the course of action in regards to how fast you should correct it and make sure you have enough info from the new guy in trouble before throwing out advice because the same problem can have different solutions depending on the huge number of variables involved. :beer:
Biggles - awesome reply mate, felt like I was reading a textbook from my college days :crazy1:
I did see the pic you posted of the two acros meeting and almost joining - was there some competition at the beginning? I actually find the engagement of allelopathy quite interesting in corals. I have yet to witness it in my own tank but am curious to see if I can get the corals to grow how I want them to by purposefully placing them in a potential war zone Or I can also take your example and use my pumps to dictate growth patterns by creating high jet stream currents. If you continuously have corals that are competing for light and space, some of which might be sliming or in an offensive display, do you have to run additional protocols like carbon to help eliminate those chemicals from the water column? I always start my new corals out on a frag rack that is near the bottom of the tank, about 4 inches off sand. My setup is kind of shallow, 16" high, even the bottom of my tank gets pretty high lighting from my LED - which are hung about 10 inches off the surface.
Please post more pics once you get your parameters settled and acros looking pretty :beer:
I think I will start my own build thread to show you what I am working with and if the placement/distances are sufficient. Maybe you can give me some advice because I am pretty new to SPS but have been seeing some really nice growth and colors on my sticks...but be warned, it's frag city in my tank. I also have way too much flubber :eek2:
Here is an existing link to my build, need to update with new pics and frag inventory:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2323974&page=2
Hi mate, i never mind explaining the way i do stuff The first time those acros met the blue one stung the fluoro one. I then chiseled off the front 1/4" of the blue one and the fluoro one reached the damaged edge before the blue one had recovered fully and began encrusting over the blue one, that's when the blue one commenced growing again but at no time in the last few months has it stung the fluoro one again - weird behavioral changes like this happen lots and you can use most of them to your advantage once you realise how big an influence you can play in the growth of your corals like i described above. The skimmer rips out slime a lot faster than carbon will so i don't worry tbh. You new coral routine sounds spot on, i'd be inclined to go 1-2" off the bottom with that rack if you can as 16" is shallow and LED's can burn a coral fast.
Yes you should start a bloody journal considering this is your reef back in December - you can do a lot of cool stuff with that rock scape, great job. The flubber front left looks cool - keep it there.........
That little nub of rock sticking up on the left is screaming out for a nice stag, the whole tank looks great and the corals look healthy - journal !
+1 on the posts bro! Thanks for showing us the up & DOWNS of reefing. Most of us go through this, but not many share their tribulations.
Even if 80% of your stuff brown out, you will come out like the Reef Rocky & back to the most beautiful tank ever. You are keen to these minor reef secrets that will most likely halt any further trouble. Big thanks for sharing your reefing knowledge!
Hi FastUno, thanks for the kind words mate. Won't be long and everything will be looking a lot happier i'm sure I've seen a good green algae bloom starting to develop today in the sump so i took out 1/3 of the rowaphos. I'm watching the acros closely to gauge what's happening with the water. Phos was 0.08 and 0.09 when tested today. :dance: