My 65G Shallow Reef Tank

Thank you Sahin. First and foremost congratulations on your forthcoming fatherhood.

My tank has changed considerably since my last update.

I got fed up with making compromises to accommodate different kinds of corals as well as clams over the years and not being able to keep the kinds of wishes I always wanted. In the end, I made a decision a few weeks ago to go for 100% sps and as a result sold all my lps corals and clams. This then gave me an opportunity to rescape my tank and I went for an open space minimal aquascape design. Finally, I started to purchase fish, which I would not remotely consider before, such as butterflies and a banner fish.
 
Thank you Sahin. First and foremost congratulations on your forthcoming fatherhood.

My tank has changed considerably since my last update.

I got fed up with making compromises to accommodate different kinds of corals as well as clams over the years and not being able to keep the kinds of wishes I always wanted. In the end, I made a decision a few weeks ago to go for 100% sps and as a result sold all my lps corals and clams. This then gave me an opportunity to rescape my tank and I went for an open space minimal aquascape design. Finally, I started to purchase fish, which I would not remotely consider before, such as butterflies and a banner fish.

Lets see photos of the new scape. :D
 
Here are a few pictures I have just taken:

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There is a new fish addition to my tank, Heniochus acuminatus. He is a picky eater, which seems to be only interested in eating fresh clams, fresh squid and fresh mussels.

The other change is that I have swapped all my ATI tubes with new Pacific Sun tubes. My current combination is 3 X PS Spectra + and 3 X Crystal Blue.

Finally, I have added sand bed (Caribsea fijipink). Surprisingly the sand bed remains clean, thanks to two conches, which seem to sweeping the sand bed constantly.
 
I have been experimenting with the new Pacific Sun T5 tubes for the past two months. I replaced my existing ATI tubes with their Pacific Sun equivalents (i.e. PS Crystal Blue instead of ATI Blue + and PS Spectra + instead of ATI Coral +). My experiment ended last Saturday after I decided to go back to ATI tubes. I will create a thread soon in "Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment" to share my experience with the rest of you.

I also upgraded my light unit to 8 X 39W ATI Powermodule.The new light unit arrived last Friday. I sold my old Sunpower last Saturday before unpacking the new light unit. I felt quite a lot of unease about this in case the unit did not work. Fortunately, my fears were unfounded. The fan speed is set at 9V. The unit is not any noisier than before despite having two extra fans, which I am pleasantly surprised about. I installed 5 X ATI Blue + and 3 X ATI Coral +. The previous combination (3 X ATI Blue + and 3 X ATI Coral +) proved to be really successful in encouraging rampant growth and producing excellent fluorescent and reflective coloration of corals. Additional two blue + tubes are expected to mirror the TMC's royal blue leds I used to use. Here is the new tube layout:

front

ATI Blue +
ATI Blue +
ATI Coral +
ATI Blue +
ATI Coral +
ATI Blue +
ATI Coral +
ATI Blue +

back

The photo period is as follows: dawn to dusk- 12 hours and full photo period- 8 hours

I hanged the unit 5" over the water surface to ensure good light distribution. After installing new T5b tubes, I normally wait for at least 100 hours before taking PAR reading new T5 tubes. Since some of my corals have started to exhibit symptoms associated with over exposure to light, I have decided to take some measurements earlier than planned. As soon as I have put the Apogee sensor into the tank water, I have nearly dropped my light meter on the floor with excitement and astonishment because I have 350 read mmol on the sand bed (nearer the front glass) :dance: Whereas the same spot received around 200 mmol before. Another example is that my Montipora setosa flourished under 255 mmol PAR before, whereas it is now receiving 440 mmol :D I feel that I have no option but to raise the unit until stress symptoms exhibited by some corals ease.

Here is a FTS I took yesterday. The rock structure is deliberately loose and minimal, but by no means is final. My wife does not like it. However, she likes the idea of giving fish free swimming space, which was my objective in the first place. I deliberately keep the coral numbers low because I want them to grow as much as possible without territorial disputes. So, my view is a long term one and is based on patience. Having said that some rocks are still empty and require a few acropora frags on them. I could not place acroporids on them before due to lack of light intensity.

FTS (26/Oct/2014) by M Bülent Özcan, on Flickr

Montipora setosa in the picture above is situated 20" below the light unit and receives (as I already wrote) 440 mmol (nearer the front glass). The pink Stylophora pistillata is situated 18" below the light unit and receives 550 mmol (nearer the front glass). Yippee ....
 
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Looking great Bulent. 5inches above water is too low for ATI units with ATI tubes...this combo give the most PAR IMO. I've always had my units about 8-10inches.

If you lived closer to me, I'd have taken a frag of the Setosa off you and gave you frags of my Red Planet and Blue Tort for safekeeping.

If you are ever coming down to London, let me know.

Do you still have Claytons Acropora Turaki? If so, what colour is it in your tank? I grew mine to a large colony and lost most of it. Now have a small frag left.
 
Looking great Bulent. 5inches above water is too low for ATI units with ATI tubes...this combo give the most PAR IMO. I've always had my units about 8-10inches.

If you lived closer to me, I'd have taken a frag of the Setosa off you and gave you frags of my Red Planet and Blue Tort for safekeeping.

If you are ever coming down to London, let me know.

Do you still have Claytons Acropora Turaki? If so, what colour is it in your tank? I grew mine to a large colony and lost most of it. Now have a small frag left.

Thanks for your compliment Sahin.

Perhaps I am comparing oranges to apples, but when I had the ATI Sunpower unit (6 X 39W), I hanged it at about 5.5" above the water surface to begin with when I installed new ATI tubes and lowered it gradually down to 3.5" as the tubes got older to maintain consistent PAR and intensity (it took about ten months to get down to the lowest level though). And yet the intensity and PAR I got at the time were nowhere near to what I am getting with the Powermodule. When I added two extra tubes, I expected some PAR increase, but only in the front and the back part of the tank, but not in the middle. I am absolutely astonished about the difference. Hence, I can't imagine what PAR would be like if I had bought the hybrid Powermodule :crazy1:

Regarding the frag exchange, I was in London three times last summer within a space of three weeks, but did not have time to visit you. I am interested in your offer and will make a special coach trip (I can't afford trains anymore!) for this purpose in one weekend when there is a special exhibition in one of the art galleries, so that I can kill two birds...

I do not keep Clayton's Acropora turaki at the moment, but I used to keep it in my previous tank. It looked grey-green/blue depending on the light intensity and spectrum. I have recently purchased a frag from him, which resembles A. turaki. However, its colouration is grey/blue and nowhere as blue as Clayton's A.turaki. I am hoping that given time it will look bluer.

:beer:
 
With respect to the increase of the PAR, I believe it is due to a few of reasons:

1. Increased number of tubes.
2. The curve on the Sunpower reflectors isnt as sharpe as the curve on the PM reflectors, hence the more acute angle of curve on the PM reflectors would focus the light a bit more...I saw an image of the light spread from both fixture's reflector compared by a hobbyist on a Chinese website and the reflectors on the PM focus's light more than the slightly flatter angled curve on the Sunpower reflectors.
3. Improved cooling: with the extra fans on the PM perhaps the tubes are being cooled very close to 35'C and thereby producing max PAR?
4. Perhaps there are better ballasts being used on the PM? This is purely a guess though.

With regards to the swap of frags. I would love to get a frag of the Setosa...let me know in advance of you coming down to London, if I obtain a frag of the Setosa before you come down, then you can bring something else that takes my fancy. Will defintely give you frags of the Red Planet and Blue Tort. -I see sharing of nice SPS corals as insurance. :)

I gave a frag of my Red Planet to Paul at ACC and it is growing very nicely in his tank.
 
Some close-up iPhone photos I took today:

Montipora setosa
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Acropora aspera
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Seriatopora pistillata
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Acropora gomezi
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Very nice tank Discus. I see you're going all sps now, why the change?

Thanks.

Keeping healthy and nicely coloured sps corals have always been my main objective since I bought my first Montipora digitata frag for my nano tank six years ago. Any other type of coral is just distraction for me because I have to compromise. If I keep, for example, lps corals, I have to compromise flow and light intensity. For this reason, I sold all my clams and lps corals and went 100% sps last September. Because my tank is shallow, no matter where I put my lps corals, there was too much light.

I have got really good growth at the moment, but the coral colouration can be a lot better. I am working on it though.
 
Wow! How did you get such nice close ups with the iphone? My 6 completely blues out. Also how is the skimmer doing? Quite and sufficient?
 
Wow! How did you get such nice close ups with the iphone? My 6 completely blues out. Also how is the skimmer doing? Quite and sufficient?

Thanks. I agree that pictures taken with iPhone look rather on the blue side. Purples always look blue. I place my iPhone literally on the glass and use the digital zoom (if necessary). I have learned this technique from Mr. Biggles, the Ozzy (Australian) reefer. He uses an iPhone macro lens, whereas I do not use one. Here are a few more pictures I have literally just taken:

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My skimmer is really quiet, but requires regular cleaning of its air venturi because it gets clogged with salt crystals. I remove the venturi to thoroughly clean it every three to four weeks. I am happy with the skimmer's performance. I skim quite wet. The amount of skimmate shown in the pictures below is 300 ml, which is one day's job.

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Latest photos (Acroporas at low tide- 14/12/2014)

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The acroporas shown above receive in excess of 600 mmol as they are the nearest to my Powermodule (about 8-9 inches), whereas the orange Montipora receives a little less than that because it is directly beneath a brace bar.

All my sps corals seem to be growing vigorously. RHF recipe dosages are all time high at 234 ml per day for both the alkalinity and calcium parts. In addition, I have recently started to top up alkalinity/calcium with limewater. I am manually dosing about 3.5 lt of saturated limewater to top up the daily evaporation. Alkalinity is steady at 8.45 dKH. I expect this to drop gradually as I have recently started to use Tropic Marine Pro Reef salt. Subject to testing errors in various tests and salinity, salt mix with Tropic Marine Pro salt at 35 ppt produced the following water parameters with Salifert test kits (date: 7th December 2014):

Mg: 1300 ppm
Ca: 425 ppm
KH: 7.15 dKH
K: 400 ppm

Finally, I have started to fluidise GFO (Rowaphos) in a TLF reactor as an important biomark for phosphates (bubble algae) has appeared in the display tank. I am also using Rox 0.8 carbon in a 200 micron bag on a continuous basis in my sump.
 
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Looking awesome Bulent! :beer:

How much Rox carbon are you using on this system? And how often are you replacing it?

I have been looking at swapping to Rox but afraid it might strip out too much.
 
Wow tank is looking nice. Beautiful SPS

Thanks

Looking awesome Bulent! :beer:

How much Rox carbon are you using on this system? And how often are you replacing it?

I have been looking at swapping to Rox but afraid it might strip out too much.

Thank you Sahin.

I am currently using 75 ml of carbon in a 200 nylon micron filter sock and replace it every three weeks. I will increase this amount to 90 ml this week and will replace it every three weeks. I will also rinse it under RODI every week as per Boomer's advice, which is something I have not done so far.

I know for the fact that in my tank this is a safe amount because it did not trigger any adverse reaction from any of my corals, including clams, when I fluidised it in a TLF reactor in the past. 90 ml is the recommended maximum according to the instructions printed on the packaging for my tank's volume.
 
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