My 72g Bowfront Build - Pics & Vids

[llebcire]

Second half of the stand posed more of a challenge. I can only assume that half of the stand was exposed to a different environmental variable as the second half was a pain!

Took three hours and an entire sheet of 60 grit to do just the second door - kept gumming up the paper.

After 3+ nights sanding, I got it. Went from 60 grit to 150 grit, used wood filler for any dent's etc., and gave the edges a much more rounded finish as I've watched my 18 month old bounce off his share of furniture - thought the sharper edges should be minimized

 

[llebcire]

On to the staining - what I learned when staining was depressing - I spent all of this time on the outside of the stand, but only lightly hit the inside with 150 grit for adhesion. Color is the same

Obviously, there is a difference in the finishes - but it doesn't seem like 15 hours difference

Used Minwax #255 (I believe) Dark Mahogany followed by 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish (separated by 400 grit light sanding).

Stain was to dry in 4 hours, took 24.
Varnish was to be ready to re-coat in 4-6 hours, took nearly 24 hours per coat.

 

[jmadison]

Eric- Nice job on the stand! It pays to do it right even if it takes quite a bit of time. You'll appreaciate the beauty that much more!

 

[glaspie69]

Do you have water in that sump yet? I haven't found a silicone that will hold up to saltwater yet. I had sump baffles actually melt out of place one time. I'd just hate to see you have the same problem.

 

[llebcire]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14604330#post14604330 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmadison
Eric- Nice job on the stand! It pays to do it right even if it takes quite a bit of time. You'll appreaciate the beauty that much more!

Thanks!

I'm hoping that 3 coats of Spar will hold up. I typically keep things pretty dry, but Spar is also resistant to ultraviolet which we all have plenty of

 

[llebcire]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14605611#post14605611 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by glaspie69
Do you have water in that sump yet? I haven't found a silicone that will hold up to saltwater yet. I had sump baffles actually melt out of place one time. I'd just hate to see you have the same problem.

Jason,

Do you remember the type of silicone you used? This has been running since Wednesday the 4th with no issues - even on my last minute silicone band-aid that I'll get to in a bit

I've used this silicone in the past, last time was on a fuge that ran for 2.5 years before I had to break the baffles out.

This GE product is 100% pure silicone without any bacterial additives - seems to be getting tough to find. Wal-Mart didn't have anything pure, and of all the silicone @ Lowe's this was the only one - don't shop @ Menards - (they don't take American Express)

 

[llebcire]

Overflow (vids in here)

I decided to try my hand at my own internal overflow. As I mentioned before, factory overflows seem to take too much real estate.

I decided to go with DIY PVC and did consider building internal overflow box with glass (like beananimal's), and I could always do something different later (unlike factory overflows). This design won't take any landscape on the floor of the tank nor should it inhibit too much light.

Overflow needs to be reliable and quiet as this tank is going into the living room. All will be painted black with Krylon Fusion when finished.

Found an old (archived) thread by ibmgeek using this overflow:

So I set out to attempt something similar:

I am planning on being able to handle up to 550 gph, and using RC's "Drain Size Calculator", I'll need a 0.97" (1") drain and a linear overflow of 8". Linear overflow is calculated using Pi x diameter of drain, and with my drain measuring 3.5", I'll have an effective linear overflow of 10.99".

I also decided to set up a test rig for experimenting, for clarification the "T" will be behind the tank and in this case is where the bulkhead will eventually go as the tank will be drilled on the back wall as the bottom is tempered:

Old bucket that I'll drill:

 

[llebcire]

Setting up in a cooler using pop cans for a shelf and a Rio 2500 for a short return.

One concern is that this will be more flow than in the tank, I think I will only go so far then wait to fine tune in the tank while leak testing.

Cooler

First vid showing intitial setup



More


3/16" hole in durso



Just PVC return - actually the quietest

 

[llebcire]

I created the teeth with equal 1/4" spacing. The diameter of this 3" reducer is actually 3.5", and the circumference is 12.5". This gives me 25 evenly spaced 1/4" teeth.

Started by figuring:

Then drilling 1/4" holes - this would have been easier with a table saw and jig!!

For grins I decided to see what type of flow I got



Just the holes could "almost" handle the flow - but man this thing is noisy!

 

[llebcire]

Not the prettiest, but I'm hoping black paint and decades of coralline will diminish this fact!

1/4" drill followed by a jig saw - no table saw or dremel on hand.

Water level

Flow

 

[llebcire]

As this is noisy, I'm trying to fabricate some sort of noise/gurgle buster along with a cap to keep snails/etc. out while not reducing flow. My recent design follows and I'll eventually fabricate a full cover to keep algae growth down.

The parts:

My custom overflow, barbed reducer that I sanded the barbs off so it would fit, reducer that's threaded so I can change overflow if needed and cap.

First set of holes. I think I need another but will wait until I have actual flow in leak test.

There is a small air gap if you look close:

 

[llebcire]

And a flow test.

Starts with just overflow, then I add insert and finally cap. As a note, it does suck the cap down (siphon) and becomes very quiet! The burping is from underneath the bucket as the other side of the bulkhead is just submerged in water and it letting our air.



I'll save any more tinkering for the leak test. You can see the turbulance before I install the cap which makes me think I need additional holes in my insert.

I'd also like to make holes further up incase something clogs, but I'm reluctant to add any more airflow at this point.

 

[llebcire]

Back to the tank, I figured where I needed to install the bulkhead for my DIY overflow and had Hung drill it.

If you look at the pictures, you'll see where I wanted the hole and where he drilled it (says he uses a press and couldn't get to where I needed).

While this isn't the end of the world, it did create a problem. My original overflow design had the reducer threaded into the 1" - giving me the ability to remove it if I needed to do a re-design, without the extra depth I had to glue it which makes removing it a whole new ordeal.

I realize that there are others that could have drilled the tank, but I drew the conclusion that since I just bought the tank from him (new), if he shattered it he would work with me on a replacement.

 

[llebcire]

With the tank drilled, it was time for some color.

I always liked the look of my old Oceanic with their black ABS background, so I went with black.

One entire can of Krylon Fusion for the back

In the last two pics you can see the fog in the air from the paint - man what a buzz! (followed by a headache :lol: )

 

[llebcire]

Tank painted

 

[llebcire]

Dry fitting the sump and skimmer into the stand.

Couple of points-

1. I mentioned the space before, and this fits EXACTLY! I don't have an 1/8" of play - stressful
2. If you notice the bulkhead for the sump, it's backwards. I realized later that this will leak

I needed to design this with the plumbing attached to the skimmer, the sump in place, then the bulkhead slips into the sump as the skimmer is installed and the bulkhead is secured.

 

[llebcire]

I took about three hours on a Sunday night to clean everything - pumps, PH's, Mag Float, skimmer, heaters, etc.

Scrub pad and vinegar.

 

[llebcire]

Lighting

It took me a while to figure out what I wanted for lighting, then another week to find a deal.

I had run Metal Halides in the past, 2x250w over a 75 with 4x65 pc's (760w total).

I started reading about T5's. Several informative threads here (RC) as well as other places on the net, here's one.

What I determined was, at least for me, T5's were a better choice.

- 216w T5 has the same PAR as 400w MH
- T5's run 14-24 months before needing replaced
- T5's use half the electricity (or less) for the same PAR
- T5's produce less heat (216w vs. 400w - 400w T5's produce the same heat as 400w MH) for the same PAR
- T5's are cheaper
- T5's grow SPS
- T5's have been used extensively in Europe for the above reasons, but are new here
- Most people think you need MH's for SPS/Clams

So I started looking around and reading about fixtures. I almost bought a Current USA as they run great deals on eBay. I didn't have the budget to spend several hundred dollars on hi-line fixtures and wanted to prove some of the opioniated masses wrong.

Ended up finding a deal on Catalina Aquarium's T5 Solar Lights
Solar T5's

 

[llebcire]

Why I chose Solars:

1. The price was right. When I bought them, they were $165 with legs plus shipping, as I write this they're $179 plus shipping and the legs.

2. I like the look of the fixture - stylish and modern in gloss black. Many of the lights I looked at appear to be 10 years old. Important as I won't have a canopy.

3. Fixture is vented so according to them, you don't need fans (jury is out on this).

4. 5 year warranty on the ballast. Speaking of the ballast, I researched it. Advance Ballast Specs (PDF)

6. Future upgrade ability.

According to the factory, there are very few bulb manufacturers of T5's. I was told these bulbs do come from China, but are the same bulbs as many others - this factory stamps whatever name on the bulb they're paid to.

So I have a nice looking fixture with what appears to be a great ballast. I can switch the lights out if needed, or even swap the ballasts and add fans if need be.

 

[llebcire]

Pics:

Packaging