MY 75 Gallon RR project and soon to be "former setup" DIAL UP BEWARE!
- Thread starter concept3
- Start date
blstravler
Member
Let me know when you are ready, I am deffinitily intested.
What is the total height of the tank?
My wife is gonna' kick my butt....
What is the total height of the tank?
My wife is gonna' kick my butt....
concept3
Premium Member
67 inches tall total
Stand is 34 inches tall and the hood is 16 inches.
Tank's viewing area is 17 inches
with the measuring tape stretched from bottom up, I get:
67 top of canopy
51 top of tank/bottom of canopy
34bottom of tank/top of stand trim
total stand depth is about 19"
I'm leaving all the plumbing intact, just add ballasts, skimmer, reactor and livestock!
Stand is 34 inches tall and the hood is 16 inches.
Tank's viewing area is 17 inches
with the measuring tape stretched from bottom up, I get:
67 top of canopy
51 top of tank/bottom of canopy
34bottom of tank/top of stand trim
total stand depth is about 19"
I'm leaving all the plumbing intact, just add ballasts, skimmer, reactor and livestock!
blstravler
Member
Perfect !!!
Just let me know when you are ready and we can work everything out. I figure you won't be ready until after the first week of December, so just let me know when.
Just let me know when you are ready and we can work everything out. I figure you won't be ready until after the first week of December, so just let me know when.
concept3
Premium Member
Well, at least it looks somewhat half decent on top of the stand. The trim came up to about 1/8 of an inch close to the trim *whew* at least that worked out.
Derek @ Miracles is helping me by shipping out the Eurobrace to me ASAP so when I get back home tonight, I'm scraping off the Silicone in prep for the Eurobrace coming in. In the interim, I guess I could work on the plumbing to go behind the tank for the returns.
Derek @ Miracles is helping me by shipping out the Eurobrace to me ASAP so when I get back home tonight, I'm scraping off the Silicone in prep for the Eurobrace coming in. In the interim, I guess I could work on the plumbing to go behind the tank for the returns.
concept3
Premium Member
Oh no buddy, we're still on!!!
I'm finalizing the sump design Rich, probably post it up tonight or tomorrow, can't make up my mind if I wanna put a fuge or not since I can't keep macros to begin with....
Yes he is, I was pretty calm about it, I'm sure it happened during shipping since I know how freight companies *cough, brown, cough* can be sometimes. The tank had four chocks on each side, and one was 90% off with one torx screw left on it, I didn't put 3 and 2 together and opened up the tank, I trusted the shipping company :rolleye1: Besides, I started trying to climb up on the trailer and he looked at me and said to me that was a bad idea since he had other "goods" on the truck.
The tank itself was wrapped pretty good and banded down to one pallet, but it sat on another longer pallet which was not bolted to the other one. Hours before, I was just thinking to myself how smooth this whole progress was, getting everything done the way I wanted, I spoke too soon.
The freight driver was more interested in cursing his superiors off since he wasn't getting paid enough and how he repeatedly said "I ain't touchin' that 300 lb pallet, y'all do that on your own since my boss don't compin-satin' me for wages. They make me come in to work wiv a bad back and do more work"
My friend Colin, my neighbor Barry and Francis (sinkingbeach) came by to help me out, and everyone of them said to me: "I'll be LIVID if I was you" ehhh, this happened for a reason (so I think)
SO MOVING ON.............
Last edited:
Reefdrumz
Premium Member
Wow, that sucks! I had a similar (but much more minor) problem with my tank thanks to "cough brown cough" :lol:
So you're just going to fix it yourself then? Brave!! even though it's just the euro-bracing, I would still be nervous!
You're in the home stretch now... Good Luck!
So you're just going to fix it yourself then? Brave!! even though it's just the euro-bracing, I would still be nervous!
You're in the home stretch now... Good Luck!
concept3
Premium Member
Deconstruction of a starfire glass tank *sigh*
Deconstruction of a starfire glass tank *sigh*
Blade under the Eurobrace. I applied the tape to contain the shards of glass on the corner....
My filet knife came in handy this time.......
Most of the silicone came off, and after 20 minutes..... Voila!
Deconstruction of a starfire glass tank *sigh*
Blade under the Eurobrace. I applied the tape to contain the shards of glass on the corner....
My filet knife came in handy this time.......
Most of the silicone came off, and after 20 minutes..... Voila!
JCURRY@WESKETCH
New member
Hey Merv I just saw the new tank parts of this thread. I did a quick calculation for the 2x3 over the center opening of the stand. @1500# of dead load the 2x3 fails with 1/4" max. deflection. 2-2x3 or 1-2x4 will work or you could put a removable post in the center. Sorry I didn't catch this sooner.
concept3
Premium Member
Awesome! I wish I was an architect. Jeff, did you consider that the "skin" I used was 3/4 inch plywood? I glued and screwed the plywood to the 2X3 in the hopes that the structure will help. I can always throw a second 2X3 under that one (with vertical side supports) to make it a 4X3 composite.....
JCURRY@WESKETCH
New member
I didn't take the plywood into account, but let me check.
If you can glue and screw them together side by side. Or if you have room to put another 2x3 under the existing one it should work. Just use liquid nails or a urethane glue to adhere the 2x3s and plywood together. If you have scraps of plywood left over glue them to the 2x3s on the inside. Your esstentially making a small gluelam beam......... the hard way. LOL
Stand looks great by the way.
If you can glue and screw them together side by side. Or if you have room to put another 2x3 under the existing one it should work. Just use liquid nails or a urethane glue to adhere the 2x3s and plywood together. If you have scraps of plywood left over glue them to the 2x3s on the inside. Your esstentially making a small gluelam beam......... the hard way. LOL
Stand looks great by the way.
JCURRY@WESKETCH
New member
I did a guest-a-mate since the software won't let me add the plywood skin. The "beam" passes but it has an 1/8" of deflection which may be fine for sheetrock but probably not so good for glass.
concept3
Premium Member
Jeff, I'll be reinforcing that front center brace tomorrow since we don't really have plans.... thanks for the compli on the stand!
Well, here are the sump plans/design. It's gonna be super simple since I finally decided that I'm not gonna incorporate a fuge, my main concern was excess bubbles and salt spray that may incur with the larger 1.5 inch overflow return (which will be almost STRAIGHT down). I spoke with RichT about the design and figured he could make it better, in the interim, here it is:
(and here is my lame attempt at being an architect):
TOP VIEW
SIDE VIEW
TOP VIEW, EUROBRACE
The half-sketch is to show the possibility of a bubble reducer thingy baffle doofachie that I hope RichT can elaborate or improve on, It's something I quickly threw together while making dinner
Well, here are the sump plans/design. It's gonna be super simple since I finally decided that I'm not gonna incorporate a fuge, my main concern was excess bubbles and salt spray that may incur with the larger 1.5 inch overflow return (which will be almost STRAIGHT down). I spoke with RichT about the design and figured he could make it better, in the interim, here it is:
(and here is my lame attempt at being an architect):
TOP VIEW
SIDE VIEW
TOP VIEW, EUROBRACE
The half-sketch is to show the possibility of a bubble reducer thingy baffle doofachie that I hope RichT can elaborate or improve on, It's something I quickly threw together while making dinner
RichT
Moved On
Nice drawings Merv, who needs CADD right?
IMO, the baffle around the bubble box is redundant with the bottom baffle at the bubble trap. Any micros that make it out of the box, if any at all, will/should be at the surface by the time they get to the trap. If not, the bottom baffle at the trap will force them to the surface. My bubble box, although very turbulent in the top half, has 0 bubbles flowing from the bottom into the sump.
Have you determined your desired normal water height in the sump yet?
IMO, the baffle around the bubble box is redundant with the bottom baffle at the bubble trap. Any micros that make it out of the box, if any at all, will/should be at the surface by the time they get to the trap. If not, the bottom baffle at the trap will force them to the surface. My bubble box, although very turbulent in the top half, has 0 bubbles flowing from the bottom into the sump.
Have you determined your desired normal water height in the sump yet?
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