My Breeding attempt - Perculas:

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Dazed,

I was just over on MOFIB and read that someone's best was two stipes @ 3 weeks for Percs.

Not sure what they are doing differently than you, just thought you might like too know.

FB
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13809364#post13809364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FB
Dazed,

I was just over on MOFIB and read that someone's best was two stipes @ 3 weeks for Percs.

Not sure what they are doing differently than you, just thought you might like too know.

FB

Link please:)
 
I just read the thread and i don't know? I could post anything i want to as well :D

Well the post does say best was 3 weeks so i don't really know what to make of it. I am not a member over there or i would send him a pm and ask. Thanks for the info though. up to this point the fastest that i had read about was around 60 days for rod's onyx to start showing the 2nd stripe. and the group before that had the same time table as what i have seen in my tank.

Sure would be nice to get that kind of growth though as i can easily see mine taking a year to reach the size needed.
 
Happy to hear that your clowns are back to a schedule again! Sounds like you are getting the bubble flow rate and everything down now, hopefully you'll get another large hatch!

How big is the clutch?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13810528#post13810528 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rkelman
One word. Steroids :)

That's already common place in the FW end of the industry. It does give more rapid development of adult coloration at an earlier age, however, it does have some negative effects on overall health.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13815234#post13815234 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
That's already common place in the FW end of the industry. It does give more rapid development of adult coloration at an earlier age, however, it does have some negative effects on overall health.
..ie fits of rage!:mad2:


:rollface:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13814823#post13814823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmadison
Happy to hear that your clowns are back to a schedule again! Sounds like you are getting the bubble flow rate and everything down now, hopefully you'll get another large hatch!

How big is the clutch?

About the same as the last one was. This time i think i am going to try and use a stand to place the tile on an angle in the tank, use a little more bubbles for hatching and shoot for a temp. of 81.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13815234#post13815234 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
That's already common place in the FW end of the industry. It does give more rapid development of adult coloration at an earlier age, however, it does have some negative effects on overall health.

So it's a give some take some kind of thing?
everything has it's payoffs & drawbacks i guess.
 
One of the drawbacks known in FW fish is that the early enhanced growth causes stunting later on. IMO, the drawbacks just aren't worth it in terms of rearing quality fish. Though using hormones does pay off in terms of rushing a product too market, even if it's actually an inferior product. It works because the average Joe hobbyist doesn't have a clue that the immature and not yet spetacular looking fish will actually be the better looking fish in the long run as opposed to the hormone treated good looking now fish :(
 
I would agree with you for sure, that does not sound worth it at all to me either. Rushing a product to market not in this hobby........:rollface:
 
Well it looks like i get another shot again tonight, I checked my tile this morning and the eggs are still there: so 10 days again. This time i am going to try and run the temp in the 5g tank a bit higher around 81-82 and set the bubbles at a higher rate as well, hoping to try and avoid the 2 night hatching that happened last time.

I also made some progress on setting up my old 40g tank over the weekend, the plan is to use the tank for a pair of gsm and also as a growout tank for some coral as well.
 
If your eggs were not dying with the bubble rate you had last time I would not change it. Having a higher bubble rate will not stop the split night hatching. The temp is the better thing to change IMO. More bubbles could damage the larvae.

FB
 
ok; i hope that raising the temperature helps; on the bubbles what i am going to try tonight is a little bubble wand and actually have the bubbles touch the eggs this time around and see what happens. The eggs themselves in my reef get moved around a bunch from the 2 tunze's anyways.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13853824#post13853824 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
ok; i hope that raising the temperature helps; on the bubbles what i am going to try tonight is a little bubble wand and actually have the bubbles touch the eggs this time around and see what happens. The eggs themselves in my reef get moved around a bunch from the 2 tunze's anyways.

The only time I tried bubbles actually touching the eggs they died 24 hours after hatching.

FB
 
So almost the same as "transfer damage" then??
rkelman shows a video on his thread of the bubbles rolling right over the eggs with no problems.

Hmm.. choices, choices i have set mine up like yours i believe with the heater holding the tile in place and the bubbles cascading in front. May be i should just try and raise the temp. this time around; ie; change only one thing at a time and not two?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13854128#post13854128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
May be i should just try and raise the temp. this time around; ie; change only one thing at a time and not two?
That gets my vote. It's hard to tell what works if you change too many things at once. Raising the temperature sounds like the best option right now.

--Ed
 
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