My journey using Chloroquine Phosphate begins...

It's possible that one of the fish died and caused an ammonia spike, setting off a chain reaction with the other fish. Were any of the fish ailing before you started treatment?

Edit: what Humblefish said too.
 
Are water changes good, bad or indifferent when dosing CP in QT?

(I'm aware of the need to redose CP proportionately if doing WCs.)

Thanks,
 
IMO & IME, water changes are always good in QT. Anything that improves the water quality during treatment is always a positive.
 
Are water changes good, bad or indifferent when dosing CP in QT?

(I'm aware of the need to redose CP proportionately if doing WCs.)

Thanks,

Indifferent as far as CP is concerned, but beneficial if you are battling ammonia in QT.

Btw, when you re-dose CP after doing a WC, make sure to treat the source water with it (or at least mix it in a bucket before adding to the QT). Just like with copper, you never want the overall concentration to drop... even for just a second.
 
Indifferent as far as CP is concerned, but beneficial if you are battling ammonia in QT.

Btw, when you re-dose CP after doing a WC, make sure to treat the source water with it (or at least mix it in a bucket before adding to the QT). Just like with copper, you never want the overall concentration to drop... even for just a second.

Thanks for pointing out the need to dose the new SW.

So, if not battling ammonia, or if you are controlling ammonia with Amquel, would you do WCs in QT?
 
Thanks for pointing out the need to dose the new SW.

So, if not battling ammonia, or if you are controlling ammonia with Amquel, would you do WCs in QT?

I do small WCs to siphon crud off the bottom of my QT, and then large WCs after all treatments are done to pull the meds out. But using seeded bio-media in QT has alleviated any ammonia worries for me.
 
Tank is almost a year old and has been stable since the initial cycle. I removed all the corals and inverts too. I fully didn't expect this after doing the reading I have on CP and the success stories of others.

I cautioned that old tanks may not be able to follow this method for exactly this reason. I tried it on my tank but at that time it was only 3 months old. I did experience losses but that was from lack of appetite not, ammonia. I suspect in your case, there was quite a bit of creatures that were alive and caused the death. I highly doubt it was the death of a single fish that caused a chain reaction. I had a missing anthia for 3 days before I figured out he was wedged under a rock dead. I attribute the death to lack of eating, which I saw a slow decline as the days went on.
 
I redid my rock work a few weeks ago and pulled as many bristles as I could find but there are always more. I guess that could have been it. It didn't help that I came down with the flu and couldn't do much Monday to catch it early.
 
I'm going to try and document my use of cp as well.

On December 25 my last fish died of ich in my tank. It's been running fallow ever since.

I acquired CP from 2 sources, now I have more than I need.

Setup:
10 gallon QT with 7 gallons of water
2 4" PVC pipes for hiding
Eheim 50 watt heater
Aquaclear HOB with seeded sponge from DT only
Seachem ammonia badge

January 25, QT 2 oscellaris, ate well at LFS, came in to QT with fun stomach

January 26, fed them slowly; pogo ate well. Bobo ate a few pellets and then started spitting out the rest. bobo might have signs of sickness, it seems like a bump on his upper right eye but his skin is white, can't tell if its ich.

I dozed 3/8 tsp of prazipro. I Will monitor for 5 days before dosing again. CP will begin February 8th.
 
CP just saved my butt thats for sure. I had to pairs of clown in diff qt tanks. But to make cleaning easier i divided a 20L and moved on pair over to the other side. Well neither pair showed signs of disease and have been doing good for about 1 week.

The day after i moved the new pair over i could tell they were off, breathing was weird and laying on their sides. The following day bam the new pair had broken out in what i believe to be brook (being clowns and not seeing ich prior) I right away dosed CP around 25mg/l or basically 1.8 grams of cp. They made it through the night and the following day they began to clear up. Now 3 days later they are no signs of disease and they are eating again and seem to be making a good recovery.
 
CP just saved my butt thats for sure. I had to pairs of clown in diff qt tanks. But to make cleaning easier i divided a 20L and moved on pair over to the other side. Well neither pair showed signs of disease and have been doing good for about 1 week.

The day after i moved the new pair over i could tell they were off, breathing was weird and laying on their sides. The following day bam the new pair had broken out in what i believe to be brook (being clowns and not seeing ich prior) I right away dosed CP around 25mg/l or basically 1.8 grams of cp. They made it through the night and the following day they began to clear up. Now 3 days later they are no signs of disease and they are eating again and seem to be making a good recovery.

Hi, my understanding is to use 10 mg/l.

Why are you using 25 mg/l?
 
10 mg/l is only a preventive dose, 15mg/l for protozoan infection, and 25mg/l for all of the above and uronema.. Here is a good read for ya :)

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/2/fish

Thanks I'll check it out, I took my dosage measures from Bob Goemans book. It was published in 2008, I guess a lot of progress has been done since then.

Do you still keep them in the CP bath for 30 days or do you lower dosage at some point?
 
Actually haven't used cp for a full treatment yet. Will most likely maintain where it is for at least 15 days then WC and lower dose for another 15
 
IME, dosages > 10mg/l is overkill. In my initial tests, 10mg/l was effective for both velvet and ich. Some of the Canadian CP I acquired didn't seem to work initially and the dose was increased to 20 mg/l with a clinical response, but with the pharmaceutical grade stuff available, 10/l or 40/g should work fine. Save your money.

In addition, I have reported a case of death from liver necrosis in a coral catshark during exposure to CP.
 
I wasn't going to update so soon but somethings did change (and I haven't even put CP in yet).

Day 2: Bobo is eating today, but Pogo stopped eating. Nitrates are at 0.2 ppm and Ammonia badge still shows 0. This morning, I noticed the temperature of the water was at 76 F, I wanted to mimic my DT at 78 so I raised the heater. Pogo is now swimming at the top of the tank, although it looks like he is breathing heavy, he's in synch with Bobo's breathing rate. Bobo is comfortable in the 4 inch pipe, comes out when he sees.

I lowered the temperature back to 76F, i'm hoping that's what stressed Pogo out.

Video: Pogo is the teardrop Ocellaris, the first fellow in the video.
 
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IME, dosages > 10mg/l is overkill. In my initial tests, 10mg/l was effective for both velvet and ich. Some of the Canadian CP I acquired didn't seem to work initially and the dose was increased to 20 mg/l with a clinical response, but with the pharmaceutical grade stuff available, 10/l or 40/g should work fine. Save your money.

Good to know. I've been treating active infections at 15mg/l (10mg/l for general quarantine), but perhaps I can stick with 10mg/l for all treatments.
 
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