My Little Garden

[iVirus]

Hi All,

I just registered myself to Reefcentral today and this is my first post here.
Wanting to have a build thread here to gain advice and at the same time to monitor my tank progress. Not sure if I have created the thread in the correct place.

Decided to register myself here after going thru the "Maxspec owner thread" and found some solution that might be answer to the issue I am facing.

I named my thread "My little Garden" as I have always been fascinated with Bonsai type of Rock Scaping or at least as of now.

Tank Commissioned in June 2010.
Location of Tank: In Balcony with morning sun shining partially into the tank.
Concept: Mainly SPS
Tank Size: 36 (L) x 22 (D) x 24 (H)
Water Volume: 82 G / 311L

Sump Tank: 20 (L) x 16 (D) x 16 (H)

Lighting: Maxspec 230W 800 G2 with Parital CREE + Lens kit
Dymax T5 2 x 39W Behind the Maxspec
DIY 12 x Blue LED infront of Maxspec

Lighting Hours: Group 1 3W Blue (mix with some CREE Royal Blue) LED 10am - 9pm
Group 2 3W white+ Blue LED 11am - 8pm
Group 3 2 x 30W White 12noon - 6pm
Group 4 2 x 30W White 12noon - 6pm
Dymax and DIY LED were added mainly for viewing Pleasure to balance colour temperature so were only on as and when I am at home.

Skimmer: Deltec MCE 600

Wavemaker: 3 x Tunze 6055 + Tunze 7096 Controller

Doser: 1 x Bubble Magnus BT01 + Bubble Magnus BT02
Here are what I am doing for the doser.
I assume 1 level tea spoon (the Rolex type) is equivalent to 6g.
Thus I mix 240g of Sodium/Magnesium/Calcium with 3 litre of tap water (Individual Bottle).
Just switch to using of DI Water 1 week back.
For Potassium I am using K-Balance Potassium Concentrate
For Strongtium I forgot the brand, will update here when I am home.

Channel 1 Dose Sodium (120ml / day 4 times from 8-11am)
Channel 2 Dose Magnesium (120ml / day 4 times from 12noon -3pm)
Channel 3 Dose Calcium (120ml / day 4 times from 4pm - 7pm)
Channel 4 Dose Potassium (4ml / day 1 time @ 12noon)
Channel 5 Dose Strongtium (7ml / day 1 time @ 12noon)
Channel 6 Empty Intend to dose Iron ( looking at Potassium Iodide Fluoride Concentrate at a later stage)
Channel 7 Dosing 500ml of DI Water as Top up for evaporation

Will update water parameters after measure which I am pretty sure the Phosphate level will be extremely high since I am using tap water all this while.

FR: Deltec FR509 + Pump

Chiller: Arctica Chiller set @ 26.5-27.5 Degree Celsius

KIV: Used to run ALGAE SCRUBBER which is currently out of the tank for the time being.

 

[iVirus]

I have taken my water parameter as of 08th March 2010:
PH: 8.3
Salinity: 1.024
KH: 8
Calcium: 480
Mag: Didnt measure but can i assume it should be within reasonable level since my PH, KH and Calcium have all been very stable?
Nitrate: 5
Phosphate: yet to measure as Hanna Tester is having problem.

I have also since change to using DI Water instead of Tap Water.

 

[iVirus]

A view of my current scaping.

 

[iVirus]

Currently I can see good PE from my milli.
Growth has also been good and fast.
Just that I am facing Colour fading or turn bown for my Sunset milli.
Blue and Pink has been able to holding on.

I will put this much due to maybe PO4 which I am slowly trying to bring them down with my FR and constant Topping up/WC with DI Water. So will take some time. However I came across the "Maxspec User" Thread, seems like I am not the only one experiencing this. Alot been saying due to long hours by the 30W LED. So I will go back home tonite and try to adjust 30W to 1-2 Hours instead on the usual 6 hours. Lets see if the milli colours start coming back.

Another thing notice, since dosing of Potassium Concentrated, I notice growth seems abit faster than usual.

 

[iVirus]

Hope to achieve something like that for the left side:

Then for the right side with one or two Branching overhang.

thinking maybe using the Tunze Magnet and eproxy it with some Staghorn Rock might be able to achieve that.

 

[TRENT_G]

Tank looks nice. Do you have any close up shots? Keep up the good work.

 

[iVirus]

Tank looks nice. Do you have any close up shots? Keep up the good work.

Thanks for ur kind word.
I have some past shot inside my dslr. Will try to upload this 2 days.

 

[iVirus]

Have just readjust my lighting period for 30w led.
Program 1500-1600 hrs for channel 1
Program 1600-1700 hrs for channel 2

Let's see if the colour returns.
Keeping my finger cross.

 

[sahin]

Nice setup, I like the rockwork, especially the left side. Can you post closer photos with less blue (turn off the Blue LED's) so that the rockwork and corals can be better seen. It will help with getting clearer photos, or adjust your white balance on the camera.

Let us see some of the corals. Lots of people have problems with LED's - I think the main problem is they dont realise just how powerful LED's are.

Look forward to more photos.

 

[kingfisher62]

[welcome]
More pics please!

 

[iVirus]

Nice setup, I like the rockwork, especially the left side. Can you post closer photos with less blue (turn off the Blue LED's) so that the rockwork and corals can be better seen. It will help with getting clearer photos, or adjust your white balance on the camera.

Let us see some of the corals. Lots of people have problems with LED's - I think the main problem is they dont realise just how powerful LED's are.

Look forward to more photos.

Regards to the LED, I am abit puzzled. Corals turning brown, I would normally relate that to Water Parameters or even shortage of Lighting and definitely not the other way round. I am surprise that other Max Spec user claim on too long Lighting hours from the 30W which I expect if its the case, shouldnt the SPS be bleaching rather than turning brown? Anyway, since they claim it that way, will give it a try.

I am also guilty of not realising the power of LED. Tiny little LED is so strong if which the above claim is true. I was previously thinking to change it to T5 untill I came across "Maxspec User" Thread. Seems like proven, LED can maintain SPS Colour. So decided to give it further try before coming to any conclusion.

Yeah I am taking the photos with my iPhone. Will take a proper picture with my DSLR when I have the time. I try to take a closer FTS. Here it is.
In case should you guys see any wrong placement of Corals, feel free to enlighten me. Picture is blur...with White balance off. Will be back with a cleaer picture soon.

 

[iVirus]

I am trying to go Barebottom. Problem I am facing, the dirt get stuck below the Rockwork which at times difficult to siphon out. As I come across from other thread, they suggested elevating the rockwork higher with Egg Crate. I am thinking to elevate the whole base of the tank with egg crate (like that i------i------i ) instead of just the rock work area.
It will be some sort like a shallow DSB of Egg Crate (not stacking them on top of each other) instead of Sand.

With a Tunze 6055 blowing at the bottom Rare right hand side blowing towards bottom left Rare and the egg Crate at the whole of bottom with no Rockwork blocking the current would that not allowing the dirt to settle at the bottom?
Do let me know your view on this. Not sure if you guys understand what I am trying to imply here...LOL.

 

[TRENT_G]

I really like the rock work. Corals look nice also. Just curious why bare bottom? I know some people do this just was never sure why? Very nice setup.

 

[iVirus]

I really like the rock work. Corals look nice also. Just curious why bare bottom? I know some people do this just was never sure why? Very nice setup.

I am not an expert in BB. But here is what I think ppl go for BB:
1) Crank up strong flow without worrying on Sand Storm.
2) NO3 building up in the DSB that bound to escape one day? Not sure on this

For me this is the reason why I went BB:
1) I wanted to create strong flow in my tank, however Certain part of the Sand will be blown inproportionate till its bare at some part.
2) Whenever I do changes to the rockwork, the sand start stirring up and lots of dirt start kicking up around.
3) I like the look of clean bottom. And tot of giving it a try.

Since you mention it, I would like to get some view as I understand one thing about BB, is they claim that Live Rock plays an important part as they process nitrates. However I am currently using Carbon Fiber Fake Rock. Anyone here would like to enlighten any danger in times to come?

 

[sahin]

Just re-read your posts; you say that your corals are brown:

This means the following:

1. Your tank system has phosphates present; generally browning of corals is caused by excess phosphates. Try and get your Phosphates measured accurately.

2. The use of tap water is most the cause of your brown corals. It's good that you are using DI water now.

Keep using the DI water and carry ot at least 20% water changes per week if possible. This will start to decrease the phosphate in the tank.

Not sure what FR is? But ensure you use some form of phosphate remover like Rowaphos etc...this will start to further decrease the phosphates in the tank. Also, if you feed frozen foods, ensure you rinse these well before they go into the tank. Try and feed a little less.

 

[iVirus]

Just re-read your posts; you say that your corals are brown:

This means the following:

1. Your tank system has phosphates present; generally browning of corals is caused by excess phosphates. Try and get your Phosphates measured accurately.

2. The use of tap water is most the cause of your brown corals. It's good that you are using DI water now.

Keep using the DI water and carry ot at least 20% water changes per week if possible. This will start to decrease the phosphate in the tank.

Not sure what FR is? But ensure you use some form of phosphate remover like Rowaphos etc...this will start to further decrease the phosphates in the tank. Also, if you feed frozen foods, ensure you rinse these well before they go into the tank. Try and feed a little less.

Hi,

1) Using the Hanna Phosphorous Tester.
2) Yeah, Suspected Phosphate as well. So will give it some time while I slowly bring it down
3) FR= Fluidized reactors, Which I put Rowaphos media in it.

Now the next question I have:
WHats the diff between TDS meter and Conductivity Probe from America Marine?
I just purchase a new TDS meter and I measure my DI water and has a reading of over 30. Is this normal? Cause my DI tube is newly bought and in the shop, they show me water coming out is 0 using the conductivity Probe from American Marine.

 

[iVirus]

Hi,

1) Using the Hanna Phosphorous Tester.
2) Yeah, Suspected Phosphate as well. So will give it some time while I slowly bring it down
3) FR= Fluidized reactors, Which I put Rowaphos media in it.

Now the next question I have:
WHats the diff between TDS meter and Conductivity Probe from America Marine?
I just purchase a new TDS meter and I measure my DI water and has a reading of over 30. Is this normal? Cause my DI tube is newly bought and in the shop, they show me water coming out is 0 using the conductivity Probe from American Marine.

Anyone can help out on the question?

 

[iVirus]

Did a latest update of water parameter:
NO3:0
CA:520
MG:1600
KH:8
POTASSIIUM:600( bring dosser to 1ml/day instead of 4ml/ day)
PO4: 40ppb( assume should be ard 0.123ppm)

what will happen when mg is too high?

 

[sahin]

Did a latest update of water parameter:
NO3:0
CA:520
MG:1600
KH:8
POTASSIIUM:600( bring dosser to 1ml/day instead of 4ml/ day)
PO4: 40ppb( assume should be ard 0.123ppm)

what will happen when mg is too high?

Mg being that high isn't bad. Just let it come down to natural levels slowly.
Your calcium is slightly high too, but that understandable considering Mg is slightly higher.

As for the TDS it is a measure of the dissolved minerals, suspended particles and other substances such as nitrates and phosphates. So a reefkeeper must always aim to have zero TDS reading by incorporating a DI resin filter after he RO unit to achieve zero TDS if required.

Do a search for conductivity on google as it is not a parameter I measure hence have no idea about it.

 

[iVirus]

Mg being that high isn't bad. Just let it come down to natural levels slowly.
Your calcium is slightly high too, but that understandable considering Mg is slightly higher.

As for the TDS it is a measure of the dissolved minerals, suspended particles and other substances such as nitrates and phosphates. So a reefkeeper must always aim to have zero TDS reading by incorporating a DI resin filter after he RO unit to achieve zero TDS if required.

Do a search for conductivity on google as it is not a parameter I measure hence have no idea about it.

thanks sahin for your input.
i opt ro out mainly because of the wastage water as well as the slow process of dripping outlet is a pain in the neck. i merely using 3 stage di.