My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

I wonder what the difference is between the two fan models. The pictures look identical, but the part number is not.

Ok you convinced me, I'm going to get one of the adafruit board.
The I2C connection of this could just be split off the LCD connection (if LCD is connected externally like mine).

ok, just ordered one from the ebay seller from chicago, maybe I'll get the board this saturday.
 
I got 2 fans from best buy. Its even cheaper at the store. $4.99 each now.

w29ogtm.jpg
 
Last edited:
ok, I wired the fan up and ran a test program.

The fan has a minimum 300rpm even if pwm is 0. So the fan 12v needs to be switched off to turn off the fan.
I only get 1100rpm at max setting connected via uln2803. I think this is due to uln2803 collector to emitter saturation voltage being 1v (darlington configuration). It will be 0.7v using a transistor. So I thnk I'll scratch the idea of using uln2803.

if I wire the 12v and gnd directly to power supply to get the full 12v, I get about 1250rpm. I suppose that is why the current consumption of this fan is only 160ma, which I thought was kind of low since typical fans I see while searching are rated 300ma.

The 3 pin fan I tested yesterday was a CPU fan, and it runs 3500rpm and blows a lot more air. For this 4pin fan, I don't even think pwm control is necessary, you probably want it at max setting.

Anyway, I'll still use the pca9685 for the LEDs, and may now just do 3 fans, maybe just using transistor to drive it. I'll search for a transistor or mosfet will low saturation voltage so fan rpm is maximized.
 
I have 5 of those I bought from Best Buy in my canopy since March and I like them, but I had a problem with the PWM output on my Arduino after about a month where it would only output a digital signal. I'm not sure if it was because I was driving all PWM signals from 1 output, but I just changed it over and am controlling the speed with voltage now which works fine as well. They're a quiet fan, regardless of price.
 
Yeah, I was only planning on running the Best Buy fans in my Stand for ventilation, that was all. For an LED Fixture I will probably run something with a little bit more power.
 
I'm using 5 of them but only 2 for ~200W of LED. I'm running them as slow as I can get them to run without stalling and my temps stay under 80. I can't imagine needing anything more powerful.

The only reason I have 5...is because I only had the 2 on my LEDs and none in my canopy for the first month. I ended up warping the oak in my canopy to the point I had to rebuild the carcass, so I didnt want that to happen again and added 3 to the top for ventilation. Serious overkill, I could've gotten away with 1 in the canopy.
 
it is a quiet fan for sure, even at full speed. I'm sure it works well in an enclosed space.

if there is no pwm input, it runs at full speed.

I think speed can go down to 10% pwm (300rppm, so it is clearly not directly proportional to pwm duty cycle). but at this low pwm, if I stop the fan blades with my hand, it is not able to start on its own again. I think the pwm should not be below 30% so the blades don't stall.
 
I found some BS170 mosfets in my parts box (these are 5 for $2.49 from Tayda electronics) and tried it to drive the fan and I'm getting much better performance. The D-S voltage is about 0.15v only. The min rpm I am getting now is around 400 and max 1250-1300. I also tried a BC338 NPN transistor and output is about the same.

I checked the fan packaging and see the specs say 100% pwm =1200rpm, 75% pwm 900rpm, 50% pwm=750 rpm. I'm getting 100% 1300, 75% 1075, 50% 790.

I checked the tach(rpm) signal on the oscilloscope and it looks very clean.

The fan seems decent. Get them while they are on clearance. Get extra for spare. Thanks to sorscode for the tip on the fan.

these are the rpm @100% pwm readings I get, printed every second.
1236
1269
1262
1241
1260
1279
1288
1274
1296
1280
1295
1276
1246
1237
1231
1237
1227
1248
1258
1279
1305
1302
1285
 
Started working with DesignSpark PCB to start building a final production board. So far this is what I have. I have plenty to add to it, just taking baby steps.

controller.bmp
 
Jebao Cable Harness

Jebao Cable Harness

So my WP-40s are coming in next week. I have looked at a few DIY cable builds. However I am not finding one that goes to a 3.5mm jack. So please let me know if these assumptions are correct.

I am splitting the wires, using this as a guide:
254wk1x.jpg


The top two, negative and positive, would get hooked up to a 2 prong plug and into an outlet. While the bottom one would go to a 3.5mm jack that will be connected to D12. Do I need to add a resistor? I have seen some places that state the PWMs on arduinos are 5v, which in case I would not need a resistor, while others claim it is 10v, which in case I would need a resistor.
 
the bottom pin gets connected as follows
D11 - pwm pump 0
D12 - pwm pump 1
D45 - pwm pump 2
D44 - pwm pump 3

connection is direct, no resistors.
you also need to connect the 24v power supply ground to the arduino ground.
 
d0ughb0y said:
the bottom pin gets connected as follows
D11 - pwm pump 0
D12 - pwm pump 1
D45 - pwm pump 2
D44 - pwm pump 3

connection is direct, no resistors.
you also need to connect the 24v power supply ground to the arduino ground.
Click to expand...

ok, so the 24ground gets split and one part of the split goes to the outlet while the other goes to 5v arduino ground?
 
wow i have read 3 pages so far and my head is pounding from all the info i am absorbing i think i am going to put this build on my laptop so i don`t get things all messed up with the coding i have made on my own so far.

i just received the mega screw shield board from marspeed along with one of the Ph stamp boards he so kindly included!

i have already cluttered up the arduino files enough with downloads that i probably don`t need and haven`t figured out how to get rid of yet either on my desktop.

hopefully i can keep from being a pain in the A#@ asking questions.
thanks for all the work and time you have invested in this project and sharing it with noobs to arduino like me.

James
 
doughboy how is the sonic distance module holding up i have 3 of these that i planned on using in conjunction with float switches to maintain water levels in my ato tank, saltwater change tank, and the display sump tank
 
jc286006 said:
doughboy how is the sonic distance module holding up i have 3 of these that i planned on using in conjunction with float switches to maintain water levels in my ato tank, saltwater change tank, and the display sump tank
Click to expand...

I think it is works pretty well as far as using to measure water level.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
274
ronnyking
R
Mr. Brooks
MASSIVE Neptune Apex Controller Package!
Replies
1
Views
220
Mr. Brooks
Mr. Brooks
andiserax
OCEANBERRY - The DIY aquarium controller
Replies
4
Views
2K
Misled
Misled
Reef Kinetics
Discover the Unique Advantages of the ReefBot Lab!
Replies
0
Views
348
Reef Kinetics
Reef Kinetics
Reef Kinetics
ReefBot Lab: The Newest All-In-One Automated Water Tester from Reef Kinetics!
Replies
1
Views
606
Reef Kinetics
Reef Kinetics
Back
Top