My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

[d0ughb0y]

if it resets only when the outlet switches, then it is power supply noise. It can be fixed by adding the coil to the power supply line powering the arduino. Adding the MOV may not fix the problem. Is your relay board using a separate power supply from the arduino power supply?

 

[jrossjr79]

Yes, the relay board is being powered by a different power supply (5V), that power supply only powers the relay board. Connected via jd-vcc and the grnd in same three pin layout. The power cord that powers the arduino, 12V, has a coil around it that I thought would be taking care of the noise.

Just to make sure about something, because maybe that is the reason. According to the schematics, we hook up via 2 different power supplies. 5V going to the jd-vcc using a separate power supply, then a 5V power supply next to the pins for the outlet relays that is powered by the arduino. Is this correct? Also, the GRND on the pin layouts for the relay pins is not mentioned in the schematics, so I assume it is not being used, or is this wrong?

 

[d0ughb0y]

yes. There must be no jumper from jdvcc-vcc, and arduino gnd is not connected to relay board gnd. You connect the relay 5v supply positive to jdvcc and supply gnd to relay gnd. And arduino 5v to vcc, and no gnd connection.

if you completely disconnect the relay board, does the arduino still reset after running for a while?

 

[jrossjr79]

Ok then I have everything hooked up right.

To tell you the truth I will have to look into it tomorrow to see if it does reset it self after awhile with out the relay hooked up. Kind of doubt it will, seems to only reset itself with equipment hooked up and only when I turn an outlet on. But I will double check tomorrow and let you know.

 

[d0ughb0y]

when I first ran into this similar issue, I isolated it occur only when an outlet switches. If I remove the relay board, the outlet can switch just fine. I initially tried the MOV, and it seems to have fixed the problem, but then came back. Only when I added the coil to the power supply line that the problem got fixed. I did not have this problem with a previous power supply I was using. But the power supply burned out. I only started seeing the problem when I replaced the power supply. I think some of the lower quality power supply can either generate noise or pickup noise from the surroundings. Can you post a picture of how you added the coil to the 12v power to arduino? Also, you connected the 12v to the arduino power input jack terminals right? and not the Vin pin. I desoldered and removed the power connector socket on my mega board and soldered the 12v power directly to where the connector terminals were. I'm almost certain the problem you describe is due to power supply noise.

 

[jrossjr79]

The way the 12V goes to the arduino is as such:

Jack is soldered to prototype board, directly from there with out any other connections I have two wires, positive and negative. Positive I have going into where the mega board says 9v, and the grnd going to the grnd directly next to it. Which I had asked you long ago if this was the way to do it, and you confirmed it was. Looks like back to the drawing board, lol. As far as the coil, give me a few mins and I will have that photo ready for you.

 

[d0ughb0y]

I was looking for connectors for use with the fans and for the LED PWM board I2C, and ended up just fabricating everything from what I already have.

I initially thought of using a 4 pole TRRS splitter, only to find out they cost $10 each, which I think is insane. So I just fabricated a splitter using pcb and some pin headers. Now I have a 3 way I2C splitter. One is going to LCD, the second will go to LED PWM board and I have a spare one for future I2C device.

for the fan connectors, I fabricated a 4 pin connector using dupont pin connector parts. you can get the pins and housing for about $1 for 100 pcs. I don't have female connector yet, but just ordered one.

This is what the connection looks like to the fan 4 pin connector.

I'm using telephone cable for both fan connection and I2C. They are perfect since they have 4 wires. I think some cheaper rj11 telephone cables only use 2 wires.

I have not figured out yet what connector on the controller side to connect to the fan.
10 pins are needed to connect 3 fans. +12 is common, 3 switched gnd from transistor collector, 3 pwm, 3 rpm.
I was thinking I could use the original DB9 connector that came with the chauvet, which has 9 pins plus the shell for the 10th connection. But the shell will be touching the chauvet case (ground) so I can't really use that for the +12 common.

 

[jrossjr79]

 

[d0ughb0y]

try this type of coil

just find a donut shaped iron core, and wind both +12 and Gnd together several windings around the core. It acts as a low pass filter. I got my core from an old broken PC power supply.

if you are using the power supply as an external power supply, you will need to cut the wire and strip the external insulation and just wind the +12 and Gnd wire (still insulated) around the core. You can solder the power jack back if you are using that to connect the power to the arduino.

 

[jrossjr79]

is there any protective plastic on those wires, or is it bare wire?

 

[d0ughb0y]

The way the 12V goes to the arduino is as such:

Jack is soldered to prototype board, directly from there with out any other connections I have two wires, positive and negative. Positive I have going into where the mega board says 9v, and the grnd going to the grnd directly next to it. Which I had asked you long ago if this was the way to do it, and you confirmed it was. Looks like back to the drawing board, lol. As far as the coil, give me a few mins and I will have that photo ready for you.

I think that is how I had mine wired originally, but has since changed it to solder it directly to the power jack terminal. I think connecting to vin should still work. I position my coil as close to the arduino as possible. The longer side (coming from the power supply) can act as antenna and pick up noise. The coil filters it out, so you want the line from the coil to arduino as short as possible. (that's why you see power supply that comes with the coil filter, the coil is located right at the end of the wire next to the plug).

in your case, you can leave the power supply as is, then for the wire from your prototype jack to the arduino, is where you want to add the coil.

 

[d0ughb0y]

is there any protective plastic on those wires, or is it bare wire?

the wires must be insulated.

 

[jrossjr79]

Think I have some of the smaller coils around, will give that a try tomorrow as well. If I can find the time, very busy day tomorrow.

 

[jrossjr79]

Ok, have them wrapped around the coil 5 times, did not have any more room to wrap it. Problem still persist!

Unplugged the relay all together. Nothing is hooked up at the relay. Everything works as it should for about 2 mins. It reset yet again after that. Going to comment out temp, think there is a problem there, might have soldered it wrong there, see if that is the problem.

Unplugged pin D48, tried to comment out temp in config.h, but was returned with errors when doing so. Left as is. Tested with USB cable running the power. Everything was fine, even with the relay on it.

Testing again with temp still unplugged this time using 12v power supply. And there we have it. Seems that I have my temp soldered wrong. See if I cant draw an illustration to show how I have it hooked up. See if indeed that is the case.



NVM, as I am trying to draw everything out, the Arduino completely shutdown, never even reset, had to manually reset. So now I am at a lost.

 

[jrossjr79]

This is how my temp is setup on my proto type board. Please advise if I have it wrong.

Retesting the controller again.

First test was plugged in by 12V power supply, as well as main controller cable plugged in. Not touching outlet settings, leaving them at default. Controller yet again became unresponsive and shut down after about 10 mins.

Testing again now with 12 V power supply and not plugging in the main electric cable for the controller, so no outlets with power. Turning on outlets from web interface, yet again, as I am doing so, arduino times out and becomes unresponsive.

 

[jrossjr79]

One last test, main electrical wire plugged in on controller, being powered by USB. Turned on outlets via web interface. Everything seems fine this way. So there is something wrong with how my power supply is funneling power to the Arduino. Will be looking for a new 12v power supply.

Quick question, the power supply I bought was 12V 1 Amp, is that the correct one?


Currently on my tank for now as an all day test. D48 is still unplugged, power to the arduino is only 5V instead of the 12V originally intended for. The 5V are being supplied via USB Wall Wart. Everything is working as expected. So either it is my 12V power supply is no good, or how it is wired up to my Arduino. Thinking I will change both, new 12V power supply, and solder directly to Arduino Jack.

Please read the previous post of mine on page 39. I currently do not have temperature probe, I have a diagram on how it is wired on previous post.

Also, Doughboy, is there a way to calibrate PH with 4 and 7, instead of 7 and 10?

 

[wgraham]

This is how my temp is setup on my proto type board. Please advise if I have it wrong.

Retesting the controller again.

First test was plugged in by 12V power supply, as well as main controller cable plugged in. Not touching outlet settings, leaving them at default. Controller yet again became unresponsive and shut down after about 10 mins.

Testing again now with 12 V power supply and not plugging in the main electric cable for the controller, so no outlets with power. Turning on outlets from web interface, yet again, as I am doing so, arduino times out and becomes unresponsive.

Do you have a 9 volt supply to try. 12 volt may be to much for the arduino causing it to run hot.

 

[wgraham]

One last test, main electrical wire plugged in on controller, being powered by USB. Turned on outlets via web interface. Everything seems fine this way. So there is something wrong with how my power supply is funneling power to the Arduino. Will be looking for a new 12v power supply.

Quick question, the power supply I bought was 12V 1 Amp, is that the correct one?


Currently on my tank for now as an all day test. D48 is still unplugged, power to the arduino is only 5V instead of the 12V originally intended for. The 5V are being supplied via USB Wall Wart. Everything is working as expected. So either it is my 12V power supply is no good, or how it is wired up to my Arduino. Thinking I will change both, new 12V power supply, and solder directly to Arduino Jack.

Please read the previous post of mine on page 39. I currently do not have temperature probe, I have a diagram on how it is wired on previous post.

Also, Doughboy, is there a way to calibrate PH with 4 and 7, instead of 7 and 10?

I would use a 9 volt supply if you can find one for the arduino.

 

[jrossjr79]

Nope, next highest one I have is a 7V, but this will not fit the jack I have on there at this time, so I wont be able to test to see if that will work or not. It has been running just fine for the last 20 mins now with just using 5V. Although, not sure how much more power I am still going to need to get the temp working again, and to control my WP40s. Still waiting on getting the cable harness so can connect to the PWMs. Currently only have this:

PH Probe

Outlet controls (on and off)
Heater
2 WP-40s
Return Pump
Skimmer
Fuge Light

--------------------------

Still wanting to add:
PWM control on WP-40s
Temp Probe
Salinity Probe (this will be further down the line, it is already wired, but still need to buy the stamp and the probe).

 

[d0ughb0y]

This is how my temp is setup on my proto type board. Please advise if I have it wrong.

Retesting the controller again.

First test was plugged in by 12V power supply, as well as main controller cable plugged in. Not touching outlet settings, leaving them at default. Controller yet again became unresponsive and shut down after about 10 mins.

Testing again now with 12 V power supply and not plugging in the main electric cable for the controller, so no outlets with power. Turning on outlets from web interface, yet again, as I am doing so, arduino times out and becomes unresponsive.

Just make sure the jack where the TRRS plug is plugged into is wired the same. That is, the sleeve connection is ground. If you are plugging in the TRRS plug to a TRS jack, check to make sure the jack sleeve (gnd) contact is connected to the TRRS plug sleeve, as typically, it will be connected to ring2 and not to the sleeve.

for now, if you need to calibrate ph4, you must load the atlas sketch to calibrate the probe, then load the chauvet sketch again.