My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

[SorsCode]

Thanks sir.

 

[Moomin1967]

Would this arrangement for each of the sprite graphs be possible.

this would put some context to the line

$("."+sensorname+"_gr").sparkline(c, {width:"100%", height:"100%", lineColor:"#0000ff", fillColor:"undefined", chartRangeMin:23, chartRangeMax:30, normalRangeMin:25, normalRangeMax:28});



or perhaps this, couldnt find a background color setting for the graph Sprite.

View attachment 292945

 

[Moomin1967]

Or

 

[rott]

After a couple emails today to atlas scientific about there K1 and K10 probes being in error on there web pages they have removed the parts about K1 for brackish water and K10 for saltwater just wanted you guys to know that

 

[007Bond]

it depends on your calibration and density of the liquid.
I can make turn the motor on as short as 1.02ms (and this is precise), which I term as 1 time unit. I can't remember how many units before it puts out one drop, so that will be the lowest amount. I think it is 98 units or 100ms produces 1 drop.

Hi,...could use some direction. I'm building a diy "Sea Sweep" out of pvc with my WP40 on it. I have a small high torque > http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-3500-2RPM-Rectangle-Shape-Gear-Box-2-Pin-Terminal-Electric-Geared-Motor-/351008149765?hash=item51b9b75105. I also have a small pcb with a switching relay on it that will reverse the motors direction.
My problem is I need something to trip the relay. I would like to do this through a timer (I think)
If I would load your time code on my uno...do you think I could get it to work ...Thanks,---RICK

 

[rott]

007 have you looked at maybe using 2 plastic side mount reed switches that way you can hook them up together kind of like one big switch so when your pvc pipe move one to its stop point it will hit that switch and trigger the relay to make it go back the second switch will be at the stopping point on the other end point when that switch is made it will close that one and then re-open the first one and the cycle start all over I have not made this switch or wired but it should be able to be done

 

[007Bond]

Hi rott,...yeah I thought about them,...probably the simplest solution,...they are used in a lot of applications, and I haven't completely ruled them out yet, but was hopping to have less moving parts involved,...thus the digital timer thought. I even bought a little reversing timer board that has the relay on it off ebay,...you adjust the time duration through a trimpot potentiometer, but it kept gaining a bit of travel on each direction change,...so no go. I contacted the seller and he suggested a digital timer of some sort.---Rick

 

[rott]

I guess other than that you could use a timer on a mega or less but you want some thing that is going to go forward for like 3seconds then stop then reverse for 3 seconds and be where you can set the how many seconds it takes part right?

 

[007Bond]

Yes exactly,...the small motor is only 2 rpm. The little board I bought has a relay that switches the polarity to the motor each time its switched that I controlled with potentiometer, but it kept gaining time so the motor would keep traveling a little further each time it cycled. So the relay will reverse ok I just need accurate consistent timing.

 

[Hzuiel]

Are you all using actual arduino brand megas and ethernet shields or the compatible clones? Considering the price estimate given by doughboy i can't see how it could be the name brand ones, seeing as how those seem to go for about 50 per board and shield.

 

[SorsCode]

Hzuiel - I'm using clones with no issue. I do own true Arduino Mega and Ethernet shield, but not using it on this project.

 

[d0ughb0y]

Don't pay full retail price. Shop around.
I got a brand new original mega for $11.50 on ebay.

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=187689.msg1389482#msg1389482

clones work just fine.

 

[Hzuiel]

So i want to take this slow and tackle one thing at a time. The first things i'm aiming for is switchable power supply with RTC so I can replace a day/night outlet timer and ethernet connectivity. I already bought some temperature probes so i might as well include that too.

So list of what i know i need:
Arduino Mega 2560 or compatible.
Ethernet shield
8 channel 5v relay
DS1307 RTC

If I am missing anything, please let me know. Including bits of wire(what gauge?) and everything.

I am planning to put the arduino and any expansion boards in it's own project box with adhesive nylon standoffs, rather than trying to fit everything in the chauvet, and use rj-45 jacks and plugs to terminate cables(aside from any bnc connectors), instead of 3.5mm jacks.


Out of curiosity, has anyone attempted any reef controllers using intel's galileo, or any combining of a raspberry pi and arduino?

 

[Hzuiel]

Bah, the forum keeps giving me timeouts saying the hosting server is down, and this time it caused a double post.

 

[wgraham]

Don't pay full retail price. Shop around.
I got a brand new original mega for $11.50 on ebay.

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=187689.msg1389482#msg1389482

clones work just fine.

Use to live in Milpitas

 

[rrbigdog]

So i want to take this slow and tackle one thing at a time. The first things i'm aiming for is switchable power supply with RTC so I can replace a day/night outlet timer and ethernet connectivity. I already bought some temperature probes so i might as well include that too.

So list of what i know i need:
Arduino Mega 2560 or compatible.
Ethernet shield
8 channel 5v relay
DS1307 RTC

If I am missing anything, please let me know. Including bits of wire(what gauge?) and everything.

I am planning to put the arduino and any expansion boards in it's own project box with adhesive nylon standoffs, rather than trying to fit everything in the chauvet, and use rj-45 jacks and plugs to terminate cables(aside from any bnc connectors), instead of 3.5mm jacks.


Out of curiosity, has anyone attempted any reef controllers using intel's galileo, or any combining of a raspberry pi and arduino?

I built mine with a separate project box. I first started using RJ45 jacks but found it a pain to cut the box. So I switched to these. Drill a hole and snap in.

http://www.arcade-electronics.com/Calrad-30-712-p/cad-30-712.htm

I found a Chauvet for 20 bucks couldn't pass it up so now I everything running with a 12vdc 2A power brick and using a db9 connection to the relay. I wanted a display and it makes it easier to see what the unit is doing on power up. Helped me troubleshoot a bad sd card slot on my ethernet shield.

I have a rPI running with a 4-port relay and temp but do not have it tied to an arduino. I know there are several projects that are doing this. But this project is "THE BEST I HAVE FOUND" d0ughb0y has done a great job.

 

[d0ughb0y]

So i want to take this slow and tackle one thing at a time. The first things i'm aiming for is switchable power supply with RTC so I can replace a day/night outlet timer and ethernet connectivity. I already bought some temperature probes so i might as well include that too.

So list of what i know i need:
Arduino Mega 2560 or compatible.
Ethernet shield
8 channel 5v relay
DS1307 RTC

If I am missing anything, please let me know. Including bits of wire(what gauge?) and everything.

I am planning to put the arduino and any expansion boards in it's own project box with adhesive nylon standoffs, rather than trying to fit everything in the chauvet, and use rj-45 jacks and plugs to terminate cables(aside from any bnc connectors), instead of 3.5mm jacks.


Out of curiosity, has anyone attempted any reef controllers using intel's galileo, or any combining of a raspberry pi and arduino?

I highly recommend you add a buzzer and an I2C LCD.

you can get both for under $5 on ebay.
I initially wired everything on a breadboard, then moved it to a proto board. I simply used the breadboard jumper wires and cut the ends and used them to wire the proto board.

rrbigdog, that audio connector is a good find. is that a TRRS connector? I would have used that if I knew it existed.

 

[rrbigdog]

I highly recommend you add a buzzer and an I2C LCD.

you can get both for under $5 on ebay.
I initially wired everything on a breadboard, then moved it to a proto board. I simply used the breadboard jumper wires and cut the ends and used them to wire the proto board.

rrbigdog, that audio connector is a good find. is that a TRRS connector? I would have used that if I knew it existed.

It is a TRRS connector. I bought one of ebay to test....then I found who the manufacturer was and you can get better price direct from some of the electronic part sites. I bought 10 to use in my box. Working great so far.

 

[SorsCode]

rrbigdog - Thanks for sharing, just ordered 25 of them.

 

[rrbigdog]

rrbigdog - Thanks for sharing, just ordered 25 of them.

FYI, One note to make. They are made for a .07 thickness. My box was thicker than that so I just snipped some of the tab to make for a thicker panel. Quick fix.