My new 600 gallon reef

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10985660#post10985660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by michika
Is it separate from your systems, or are you going to plumb it so that you have the option of putting it inline, or separate?
Right now, it is going to be a seperate system with it's own trickle filter, mechanical, chemical, & UV.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10985823#post10985823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
Right now, it is going to be a seperate system with it's own trickle filter, mechanical, chemical, & UV.

IMO that is also the best way. as if you had a QT hooked up to the main system, the diesese that your trying to look for or treat will just go into the main system anyway which is why you want to QT in the first place, to keep the nasties out of the big tank.
 
I will be putting a valve in so I can have the extra water capacity. not that you need it. When I am using the QT tank for fish and such I will turn the valve so the water is not going into the main tank. then I will have the bio wheel for filtration in it. If I have to treat the fish or coral in that water I will change all the water in the QT tank before opening the valve up again.
 
That aquarium testing company is freaking COOL! Anyone used them before? I'd love to see more accurately what my parameters are sometime. Mainly PO4, Mg, Alk.

Lunchbucket
 
For those who have asked for independent testing of my tank, Monday I sent off water samples to Aquarium Water Testing and these were their results after testing.

Oct_18_001.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11001264#post11001264 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kau_cinta_ku
wow is that on the 600 gal? I am wondering how your copper levels got so high. that could be a good reason for your corals. and your cal. also very low need to turn up the reactor. but that testing thing is very neat. how close was it to your home testing?

BTW if your intrested i finally got around to starting my own thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1223389
Calcium is the one result that I question. When I tested the same water prior to sending off the sample, my results using Salifert test was 470. This afternoon, I took a water sample over to TangDiver and he used his Salifert test and came up with a similar number. His Salifert test was of a different lot number than mine, but we both had much higher readings than AWT. My copper reading was lower, but just incase I am changing all of the RO filters tonight and reloading carbon running in the tank.
 
Well, think about it this way...if your ca really was 470 ppm, you would have to have a crew to keep the glass clean, especially with that high of alkalinity. I know they are related, but are you having wicked coraline growth on the glass?
 
I don't agree. My calcium levels average for this year at 480ppm, and I don't have a coralline problem in my tank. Perhaps my nitrate and phosphate keep it beaten down, but I only have it around the perimeter of the tank, near seams and along the substrate, as well as darker areas of the sump.

I'm not even sure how you get so much coralline in your reef, Jonathan. I'd attribute it to the kalkwasser you drip, since I don't use any.
 
heck the only place I get coraline is on my overflow and my pumps. seems anything that is plastic in my tank gets it but nothing else. and my cal. is 450ppm, alk, 10dkh, and mag is 1350.
 
Hmmmm...my alk averages around 9.0 dKh and my Ca at 420 ppm. Mg is higher than most people keep it and is at 1450+ ppm. At any rate, I had the coraline issue prior to my kalk drip. I can't imagine what problems I would run into if my Ca was at 450 ppm or above.

Maybe it's a special strain that came in from MI?
 
Chuck, how do we know that's not you in disguise? Hey, I got to get me a water man! Does this guy do all your water changes?
 
Here is a picture before he started. The two blue cartridges on the right are a carbon & sediment prefilters prior to going into the Merlin RO unit. The 10" canister sitting in front of the RO unit is the resin cartridge that the water passes through after leaving the RO unit before going into the storage tank.

oldsystem.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11001747#post11001747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I don't agree. My calcium levels average for this year at 480ppm, and I don't have a coralline problem in my tank. Perhaps my nitrate and phosphate keep it beaten down, but I only have it around the perimeter of the tank, near seams and along the substrate, as well as darker areas of the sump.

I'm not even sure how you get so much coralline in your reef, Jonathan. I'd attribute it to the kalkwasser you drip, since I don't use any.

I agree, I have very little coraline growth on my glass or sides, but maintain a relatively high Ca level (approx 500). My sps still grow rapidly so coralline seems to be a poor indicator of tank health. Interestingly I also have a 24 gallon nano which is coated in thick plates of coralline. I'am always scraping it from the glass. I use a two part ionic Ca additive on the nano and a Ca reactor on my 600 gallon. Perhaps the particular proportion of elements in the additive enhances the coralline growth. Or perhaps the extra lighting on the 600 inhibits its growth. I have used a 2 part additive on a previous tank with high MH lighting and still got the enhanced coralline growth, so I'am partial to thinking its the proportions of particular elements in the additive that my CA reactor media cannot provide.
 
After Mike finished up, I now have a much larger resin tank for polishing the RO water and a 20" Carbon pre filter for water entering the RO unit. Hopefully this will help reduce the copper & silica AWT tests showed.

newro.jpg
 
my house was built with flexible PVC tubing for the water lines instead of traditional copper piping. I wonder if this helps reduce the copper levels in my water supply.

Look at the good side Goodwin9, its like you have one big 600 gallon quarantine tank. LOL
 
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