My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (II) Build Thread
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
Yes, I looked at camera version Subs.
Bit expensive.
https://www.amazon.ca/Sub-Mariner-Equipped-Submarine-Underwater-Photography/dp/B01JL1NZQO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519956251&sr=8-5&keywords=remote+control+submarine
And too big.
Someday they will get smaller.
It is fun, to master the control.
But needs some obstacles for more fun.
They even have these tiny ones from Air Hogs.
Someone put one into their Reef Tank and Tang Beat it up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Twlsy_wH2LY
Really!!! We did talk about you keeping Shipping baggies.
First this Tank need to get started up. Then Stable, and trust worthy.
Wally.B
Active member
DRASTIC Change of PLAN (Starting New Tank) Access and Spacing
I've come to realization the I must START UP the NEW TANK. (Or Another Way of putting it....Shut down OLD TANK)
Here is the problem.....
The OLD TANK and SUMP is in the way of my Wall just outside Sump Room.
This is where I plan to do some of the Electrical/Control Setup and other things. (plus my doser, and other key pieces of build are behind old tank)
I also need to work in the Sump Room with Sump in Place (for Controller and cord distances)
SO I HAVE PREPARED THE SUMP Room (Just enough).....
When I work later, I can cover up the Tank (to prevent any dust, debris)
What I've done in preparation for the (NEW) TANK SETUP.
-> Painted key areas (With WaterProof Sealer)
-> Fixed up an OLD Sump Stand (Which I removed a long while ago (but kept for a table), since I had to lower sump to get better Gravity Flow on OLD SETUP)
------> New Setup will allow a HIGHER SUMP placement (wonderful for access and Maintenance)
------> Higher Sump mean less Return Pump Height so more GAL/HR Flow on existing RLSS Return Pump.
------> Also Raised sump will give me STORAGE access underneath.
Small improvement from last time (Foam Feet Underpads) For Quieter Running SUmp.
YES THIS MEANS I'm going to start making water to fill the NEW TANK.
Then move sump over, and......Not sure....
But I think I'll just transfer Rocks and fish into New Tank (With a 2nd pass on New Tank Setup....The Permanent Setup)
I've come to realization the I must START UP the NEW TANK. (Or Another Way of putting it....Shut down OLD TANK)
Here is the problem.....
The OLD TANK and SUMP is in the way of my Wall just outside Sump Room.
This is where I plan to do some of the Electrical/Control Setup and other things. (plus my doser, and other key pieces of build are behind old tank)
I also need to work in the Sump Room with Sump in Place (for Controller and cord distances)
SO I HAVE PREPARED THE SUMP Room (Just enough).....
When I work later, I can cover up the Tank (to prevent any dust, debris)
What I've done in preparation for the (NEW) TANK SETUP.
-> Painted key areas (With WaterProof Sealer)
-> Fixed up an OLD Sump Stand (Which I removed a long while ago (but kept for a table), since I had to lower sump to get better Gravity Flow on OLD SETUP)
------> New Setup will allow a HIGHER SUMP placement (wonderful for access and Maintenance)
------> Higher Sump mean less Return Pump Height so more GAL/HR Flow on existing RLSS Return Pump.
------> Also Raised sump will give me STORAGE access underneath.
Small improvement from last time (Foam Feet Underpads) For Quieter Running SUmp.
YES THIS MEANS I'm going to start making water to fill the NEW TANK.
Then move sump over, and......Not sure....
But I think I'll just transfer Rocks and fish into New Tank (With a 2nd pass on New Tank Setup....The Permanent Setup)
Wally.B
Active member
SUMP STAND (Top) (Vibration/Sound) Cushion Foam
This kids Play Foam Padding worked like a charm last time.
Doesn't have to be perfectly Continuous piece to do the job.
I did choose Same Color Purple on the Exposed/Visible side.
And some left over Vapour Barrier tape to keep Foam-Pieces in place during Sump Installation/Drop-in.
This kids Play Foam Padding worked like a charm last time.
Doesn't have to be perfectly Continuous piece to do the job.
I did choose Same Color Purple on the Exposed/Visible side.
And some left over Vapour Barrier tape to keep Foam-Pieces in place during Sump Installation/Drop-in.
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
Extra PreCaution (Stand Shift) During Drain/Fill - (Drywall Crack Prevention)
This is overkill once Tank is Fill with Contents and has 1200 Lbs Weight.
Stand is BOLTED to Concrete floor (just TWO Spots).
I can't take a chance the STand will shift when I drain it (And it's lighter)
Slightest Movement/Shift on Stand Could crack my MUD Drywall Joints (Or WORSE, shift and LOOSE LEVELING with Shimmy's coming out of position)
This is overkill once Tank is Fill with Contents and has 1200 Lbs Weight.
Stand is BOLTED to Concrete floor (just TWO Spots).
I can't take a chance the STand will shift when I drain it (And it's lighter)
Slightest Movement/Shift on Stand Could crack my MUD Drywall Joints (Or WORSE, shift and LOOSE LEVELING with Shimmy's coming out of position)
Wally.B
Active member
It's just a sump (30 Gallons of water+Stuff), plus the bottom of the Sump Has a Thick Trim to distribute the pressure on the Glass anyway.
It will be perfectly fine (did this before), and the minor spacing will act like a bunch of springs, and foam will compress and expand.
The Tank is continuous foam.
Wally.B
Active member
I NEED ADVICE ( Got 60 Gallons of new Water Ready, and making more) To do OLD TANK to NEW TANK Transfer
NEW Tank is 110 Gallons, Sump Approx 30 Gals. TOTAL for NEW SETUP(140 Gallons - Rocks)
Old tank has 65 Gallons, Sump 30 Gallon (ALL OLD WATER = 95 Gallons)
SHOULD I JUST FILL UP TANK (110 Gallons) with New Water.
And.....Attached Sump after move (30 Gallon of OLD water)
So it would be effectively a 110 Gallon Water Change on 140 Gallon System (80%) Water Change
That should be ok. Maybe go 90%, Even 100%??????
Plenty of Biology in the Sump, and LOTS of LIVE ROCK for Nitrates and avoid a Significant Cycle.
NEW Tank is 110 Gallons, Sump Approx 30 Gals. TOTAL for NEW SETUP(140 Gallons - Rocks)
Old tank has 65 Gallons, Sump 30 Gallon (ALL OLD WATER = 95 Gallons)
SHOULD I JUST FILL UP TANK (110 Gallons) with New Water.
And.....Attached Sump after move (30 Gallon of OLD water)
So it would be effectively a 110 Gallon Water Change on 140 Gallon System (80%) Water Change
That should be ok. Maybe go 90%, Even 100%??????
Plenty of Biology in the Sump, and LOTS of LIVE ROCK for Nitrates and avoid a Significant Cycle.
Wally.B
Active member
Glass Plate (OPTION for Temp Cover)
Miracles provided me a Glass Plate that fits into the Bottom of the Tank.
It fits perfectly in between the Inside Bottom Trim, to make Tank Bottom TOTALLY FLAT (an option, I don't plan to use anymore).
IT won't fit into Tank without being Cut in Half, but I told Miracles not to cut it as a possible Glass Top OPTION.
For now it makes for a handy TANK Cover (Since the plastic Sheeting would always droop into tank and get wet).
I still have the EURO TRIM Hole to fill tank (with the Water I'm making in 30 Gal Garbage Can).
Miracles provided me a Glass Plate that fits into the Bottom of the Tank.
It fits perfectly in between the Inside Bottom Trim, to make Tank Bottom TOTALLY FLAT (an option, I don't plan to use anymore).
IT won't fit into Tank without being Cut in Half, but I told Miracles not to cut it as a possible Glass Top OPTION.
For now it makes for a handy TANK Cover (Since the plastic Sheeting would always droop into tank and get wet).
I still have the EURO TRIM Hole to fill tank (with the Water I'm making in 30 Gal Garbage Can).
Wally.B
Active member
One good reason.
Earlier This week I put in a Monti (Doing so/so) From my Frag Tank into the OLD 65 Gal Tank (which I haven't done a water change in 3 months).
Just to test the 65 Gal Tank.
Monti pretty well died in 3 days. Terrible looking, very quickly. (Could have been a ALK shock since no dosing in Frag Tank for 3 months)
So my 3 months of no water changes keeps the Fish Alive, but I don't think the water is SPS quality.
I know the 3 Month Slack on Water changes is a factor, since even my Kitchen Tank (Which is very forgiving) Corals started looking not that great.
I did a Water change couple days ago and they all perked up, and keep getting better each day.
JUST TO BE CLEAR. I've been dosing the 65Gal Tank to keep ALK/CAL stable for Coraline on rocks.
BUT NO WATER CHANGES since the MOVE out Late October.
(Guess I should do a Nitrate, PO4 Test. No tests done either other than ALK/CAL)
I did a reset with you before 80% and no problems (but 80% was in stages).
Plus a big change will really remove any toxins from the Good Old Soapy Dishwater Issue (just before I moved tank)
REMEMBER I have no CORALS at all. Just Fish and Live ROCK.
Last edited:
Wally.B
Active member
ANOTHER OPTION (JOIN Both TANKS to MOVED SUMP)
Here is an option I thought of.
I have a spare return pump, and enough hoses.
I could just move the SUMP to the SUMP ROOM.
Start Running the NEW TANK with 110Gal of NEW Water on the SUMP, but hook in the 65 Gallon (with old Water) into the SUMP (with old water).
(Ie Two/BOTH Tanks one Sump)
Total Water Volume of the system would be 110+65+30=200 Gallon Approx.
So Adding the 110 Gallon Tank would be roughly a 50 % water change.
THAT WOULD BUY me some time, to move rocks/fish over slowly, and less shock to fish.
Copepod and bacteria would spread through the whole system.
BUT I would NOT want to wait too long since I still have the 65 Gallon Tank in the way of progress on Build.
AND if any toxins they would be diluted, but not eliminated (Not sure if enough dilution)
Here is an option I thought of.
I have a spare return pump, and enough hoses.
I could just move the SUMP to the SUMP ROOM.
Start Running the NEW TANK with 110Gal of NEW Water on the SUMP, but hook in the 65 Gallon (with old Water) into the SUMP (with old water).
(Ie Two/BOTH Tanks one Sump)
Total Water Volume of the system would be 110+65+30=200 Gallon Approx.
So Adding the 110 Gallon Tank would be roughly a 50 % water change.
THAT WOULD BUY me some time, to move rocks/fish over slowly, and less shock to fish.
Copepod and bacteria would spread through the whole system.
BUT I would NOT want to wait too long since I still have the 65 Gallon Tank in the way of progress on Build.
AND if any toxins they would be diluted, but not eliminated (Not sure if enough dilution)
Wally.B
Active member
I am preparing to move SUMP.
Will be moved tonight.
I won't hook up new tank to SUMP YET!!
It will allow me to complete 1/2 the move. (Sump in permanent location, but Old tank still hooked up, NEW Tank JUST filling with New Water and right next to sump)
I will See Sump in Sump room to get me a feel for things.
Still won't have enough water to join tank for a day anyway.
But I will have option to do anything I want tomorrow, or Sunday.
At least it's some progress.....
Will be moved tonight.
I won't hook up new tank to SUMP YET!!
It will allow me to complete 1/2 the move. (Sump in permanent location, but Old tank still hooked up, NEW Tank JUST filling with New Water and right next to sump)
I will See Sump in Sump room to get me a feel for things.
Still won't have enough water to join tank for a day anyway.
But I will have option to do anything I want tomorrow, or Sunday.
At least it's some progress.....
JonezNReef
Member
I think your plan of attack will work fine. I have transferred my livestock with little issues too many times and that’s with corals. I think after you hook up the two tanks together on the same sump it wouldn’t take but maybe a day or so for the water to be the same in both tanks.
Wally.B
Active member
I'll sleep on the next step for the New Tank.
For Now I got the Sump in.
FITS's nicely. Love the fact that I got quite a bit of Extra Space back in Sump Room (Even with the bigger Tank).
Cleaned Sump up and that's Approx 20 Gallon Water change on 65 Gal Tank, since I kept the Water from the Refuge.
Now I just have to hook up the 65 Gallon Back into Sump.
Wally.B
Active member
1/2 Transfer Completed (Sump Running OLD TANK) In Sump Room
It's done. Old Tank is Running again.
Had to turn down Return Pump to minimal since Higher Sump creates a slower drain. New Tank won't be a issue since 100% Vertical Drop.
Was worth doing since got Sump Cleaned up and Particulates will clear up in OLD TANK.
Small water change is a Gradual Step towards New Tank Complete Transfer.
NOW I need to decide next step.
-> Join Both Tanks (OLD & NEW) (and let things run a day or two)
------> Then Start Bringing Fish and Rocks over to NEW TANK, and disconnect OLD TANK.
-> Start up NEW TANK (with the 110Gallon of New water and the 30 Gallon of Mature Water in Sump)
I took a water sample from OLD TANK before the transfer (To see how bad or good it was)
Will do some COMPLETE water tests to help make the Final Decision.
It's done. Old Tank is Running again.
Had to turn down Return Pump to minimal since Higher Sump creates a slower drain. New Tank won't be a issue since 100% Vertical Drop.
Was worth doing since got Sump Cleaned up and Particulates will clear up in OLD TANK.
Small water change is a Gradual Step towards New Tank Complete Transfer.
NOW I need to decide next step.
-> Join Both Tanks (OLD & NEW) (and let things run a day or two)
------> Then Start Bringing Fish and Rocks over to NEW TANK, and disconnect OLD TANK.
-> Start up NEW TANK (with the 110Gallon of New water and the 30 Gallon of Mature Water in Sump)
I took a water sample from OLD TANK before the transfer (To see how bad or good it was)
Will do some COMPLETE water tests to help make the Final Decision.
Big E
Premium Member
Use as much of the old water as you can.
One of the biggest mistakes people make is not doing this and they end up losing a handful of acros. I've seen this play out over and over many times over the years.
I'm not totally update to how many corals you have in the old set up.......but either way I'd still do this......you're still going to be adding about 30% new water.
Last edited:
Similar threads
