My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Algae Scrubber (Tank Logs) History

I keep track of every maintenance activity, measurement, and change to tank.

I reviewed my Algae Scrubber Harvests and other related things.

I see normal Algae Harvests through May 2017.

Last Normal Harvest June 1st

May 23, N=1.0 and P=0.13

June 2nd I turned on Auto Water changes

June 12, I started Dosing AF Component 1,2,3

June 14th I noted that Algae Harvest was Lite

June 17th N=1.0 P=0.18

June 20th I put in new GFO Media

June 26th P=0.06 (Big Drop 50%)

June 29th All Coral Feeding Stopped. All Additives Stopped

No more logs of Algae Harvests from this point. Unusual break.

July 3 P=0.04 N=+5 <10

July 25th P=0.06 N=5

Aug 8th Converted to ESV Calc and Alk Dosing

Aug 12 P= 0.05 N=10 (Nitrate rising)

Sept 1st P=0.08 N >10 <25

From what I see, it appears my Consistent Water Changes, and Introduction of new GFO dropped my N & P.

My scrubber slowed down as a result (which is normal), however the Cowrie and Snails polished it clean.
** SPECIAL NOTE1: Cowrie was added to Scrubber Some time Late Spring/Early Summer.**
** SPECIAL NOTE2: Away for 2 Weeks during July/Aug for 2 Vacations (Low/No Fish Feeding)**

Since scrubber halted and can't start up properly, my N has been Rising.
P is being controlled by GFO (even though slow trickle), but P is slowly rising and will continue since Scrubber is Technically OFF.

I basically need to restart Scrubber like from scratch.
-> Removing the Snails is good step.
-> Should also remove Cowrie.
-> Smearing Screen with Algae was a good thing to PRIME Screen.
-> Photo Period on Scrubber needs to start Low and Wait for Screen to Mature/Ramp up.

Screen will ramp up similar as it originally did at the start which I captured in this thread.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570553&page=2

( PhotoPeriod=15 hours a day, Full Power. Could try Lower Power, More PhotoPeriod)
Trying to get answer which is better.

However Ramp up may be much slower since last time N=10, and P=.14

 

[Wally.B]

Cowrie Removed (From Algae Scrubber) In Sump Refuge/WaterChangeCompartment

That's the 2nd time this Cowrie has given me a problem.
Last time he devoured the Polyps off my SPS Frags.

He has been demoted to cleaning my Water Change Compartment/Refuge section of Sump (Where he can't get out).

He has taken to the glass right away. It could use a some polishing.

There is a Nasty Hermit in there, that was removed from DT for Bad Behavoir.

 

[Wally.B]

New Piece (Roughed and Primed Screen)

Just in case that Old Coralline Covered Screen is really Strongly resisting Algae Startup.

Placed in the Open Portal so it will get Mid Scrubber Lighting.

Will be interesting if this piece starts up quicker.
Once I have some Algae Build up anywhere, I'll prime it again for the eventual All screens replacement.

 

[Wally.B]

New Stronger Lighting (Branching Cyphastrea) Colors up.

Waiting patiently for ATS to kick in. Nothing is dying, and there are hints of hope across all frags.

However one Coral caught my attention.

Got it over a year ago. Here is original Reference Photo.

Has been Encrusting like crazy since I got it. Took over the whole rock it's on.
I raised it few weeks ago, to give it more circulation, with hope it would branch more to live up to it's name.

But after the recent PAR adjustments. Today I saw it popping out more then usual in just the Blue Plus/Coral Plus T5's.

Hoping this is a positive sign, and other Frag Follow same positive direction.

 

[Wally.B]

Lesson in (Numbers Stability) Alk and Phosphates

Everyone say's stop chasing numbers, but I feel that is for the Long Term Thriving Stable Tanks.

Also it's pretty clear SPS want stability across the board.

My more frequent AutoWater changes were suppose to keep all Trace Elements at proper levels & stable. I think that is in check.

However, when I planned this last rebuild I was Highly Focused on Alk since I learned from past Frag Damage that Alk spikes are not forgiving.

I did keep Calcium balanced with Alk with the close watch on dosing.

My next goal was to bring N & P down. I certainly did that till the scrubber shut down (and then N started the recent slow rise).

I was really happy seeing N get close to 1.0, and even more happy seeing P drop from 1.0+ to 0.06, to 0.04
(Something I've never achieve before, except years ago when P was undetectable during Algae Bloom).

But that > 50% drop in P in the Low Range (Adding fresh GFO with Scrubber Online) appears to be another lesson learned.

I won't let that happen again.

 

[Wally.B]

RED ALERT (Signs of Cyano) Tiny Spot on One Frag Base

This puzzles me.

This one OLD residual Frag has had that small patch of Cyano for weeks.

I've been watching it, and it never got worse or spread.
No Cyano ever showed up on Sandbed when I had it. (It could be my Zeo Bak Bacteria drops that kept it in check).

So just to be safe I removed it, rinshed it and put back

But now looking closely at rocks I do see tiny cynao type bubbles on the rocks, in the odd spots where Frags have died (They show up at the End of the Main lighting Cycle).

That's an early warning that more could be on the way unless I get my Nutrients under control.

I REALLY NEED THAT SCRUBBER TO KICK IN. (HOLDING BACK ON ANY Extra Feeding till it does)

Temped to pull out some Cheato from other Sump and throw into Scrubber. First Dip it with Copper Treatment to kill any possible Ich from other tank.

Another Option is to head to LFS and get some Cheato which they sell. Risk is I'll bring something else to contaminate my tank.

Or just sit back and watch, with hope Scrubber wakes up on Old or new Screen.

I could reduce Lighting to control it, but that would be reversing all the progress so far. (Last resort if Cyano start getting out of hand).
What am an doing is using Coral Snow along with Extra Zeo Bak to at least beef up good bacteria.

 

[Wally.B]

Since the Cryphastrea caught my attention today, I thought I'd take a peek at it at night. With Actinic Blue LED on.

It actually looked like this to my eyes, but clearer.

Hard to Focus in such Deep Blue lighting, but it's interesting that there are more distinct color variations that you can't see as distinctly in Fuller Spectrum Light.

Kind of looks like a Strawberry Shortcake.

 

[Wally.B]

HOLDING MY Breath (Scrubber Showing signs of Restart) Cleaners gone.

I thought I'd never be happy to see Algae Growing, but I am.

Too early to have any confidence yet, but I keep watching that screen after I removed the Snails and Cowrie.

I decided to go 20 hours, but dim the light a notch.

I can see hints of Slime Algae, and even Macro Algae Threads/Nobs starting.

Interesting that Slime is growing on the Coralline areas, while greener stuff on other parts.

The virgin screen is still white, but I see particle forming.

 

[Wally.B]

** HELP me think this thru ** Power Brown (Ich Returns) Treatment OPTIONS

Just to be clear. I have two tanks. 65 Gal SPS tank has no ich. This ich is in 90 Gal Mature Very Stable, Healthy Corals LPS Tank.

The Power Brown went thru the typical stage where ich symptoms almost disappeared.

Then this morning he came out like this. He is still eating and swimming like nothing is wrong.
It looks bad in photo, but about the same as he was a couple weeks ago before things cleared up.

No other fish has ich (visibly) from what I can tell. But blue green chromis's are acting edgy. Edgy could just be me noticing what hyper fish they are. After feeding they calm down. They swim all together with Powder Brown Tang peacefully each night.

I've come to realization that I cannot catch all fish (fish trap) since the Algae Blenny is feeding independent, since he feeds off the rocks. (He doesn't come to feeding station).

If I don't remove all fish from LPS tank to treat, then ich will continue to thrive.

I am thinking a strategy, where my TOP PRIORITY is to preserve the Corals, which means I don't want to tear apart the tank. Removing 80% of Corals is possible and transfer to the Frag Tank. That would contaminate Frag Tank, but I could run it fallow for 3 months.

I also worry about whatever I do, that I not contaminate the hoses to then possibly contaminate my SPS tank. Or contaminate SPS tank (with the healthy fish) by splashing, buckets, etc. I would be careful, but there are risk with errors.

The FRAG tank is an option to transfer all corals, and treat the LPS tank with Copper Treatment.

Another option is do nothing. If Powder blue dies, then I could face challenges to remove him (Tank tear down situation which I wish to avoid). Ich would still remain in tank with host fish remaining.

I read up on Kick-Ich. Sound like a useless product that I would just waste my money on.

I really don't know what to do, but I am preparing large amounts of water.

The hospital is setup, separate from Frag tank, but doesn't have filtration to treat fish while feeding it for 2-3 weeks. Option to move Sump to Hospital, since Frag tank has mini filter, and no fish. (but I still need to catch Powder Brown for this option)

AFTER WRITING THIS, I think my best bet is try to CATCH THE POWDER BROWN TANG, and treat in Hospital on Frag Tank Sump (with Cupramine).

Since this is not an SPS tank, one idea to catch fish, is drain tank 90% into Rubbermaids, to catch all fish.
I can drain tank quickly, then refill.
But this may not work since fish hide even more (in bottom rock scape) when aware of being chased

But before I do any of above, I'll try the Hydrogen Peroxide treatment that Reefmutt recommended.

 

[ReefWreak]

Since the ich is in the tank, if the powder brown is healthy and eating, I'd just keep on feeding healthy foods and leave him alone. Pulling the otherwise healthy fish and treating him for a disease that he'll immediately just pick back up again when he gets back into the display sounds like a waste of time and resources, and will stress him out more than leaving him alone and treating him to an extra helping of selcon or other delicious foods to help him through his current health crisis.

If ich is present in the tank, it's there, and you wont get rid of it unless you keep it fallow and/or treat it directly (hyposalinity, copper, etc). Many/most of us have ich in our tanks, and the fish show it when stressed. As long as they're eating and otherwise healthy, it shouldn't be a problem seeing them through this recent bout.

I think the bigger concern than ich itself if its already in your display and you aren't likely to get rid of it are secondary bacterial infections from fishes scratching on the rocks due to ich causing itching.

And while this is certainly not going to get rid of the ich, do you have a cleaner shrimp that might help the fishes through this stage of the disease? It won't cure it, but it may provide temporary relief when the fishes need it?

 

[Wally.B]

Since the ich is in the tank, if the powder brown is healthy and eating, I'd just keep on feeding healthy foods and leave him alone. Pulling the otherwise healthy fish and treating him for a disease that he'll immediately just pick back up again when he gets back into the display sounds like a waste of time and resources, and will stress him out more than leaving him alone and treating him to an extra helping of selcon or other delicious foods to help him through his current health crisis.

If ich is present in the tank, it's there, and you wont get rid of it unless you keep it fallow and/or treat it directly (hyposalinity, copper, etc). Many/most of us have ich in our tanks, and the fish show it when stressed. As long as they're eating and otherwise healthy, it shouldn't be a problem seeing them through this recent bout.

I think the bigger concern than ich itself if its already in your display and you aren't likely to get rid of it are secondary bacterial infections from fishes scratching on the rocks due to ich causing itching.

And while this is certainly not going to get rid of the ich, do you have a cleaner shrimp that might help the fishes through this stage of the disease? It won't cure it, but it may provide temporary relief when the fishes need it?

Thanks ReefWreak,

What you suggest is exactly what I have been doing.
Continue to wait and not do anything drastic to Tank or Fish. (With hope Power Brown will eventually fight it off).
I wouldn't say he is healthy looking. But acting healthy for sure.

He and all fish will eat as much as I provide. I am feeding a good variety (flake,Pellets, and Frozen Hikari Spirulina Brine Shrimp).
ONE THING I COULD ADD is some NORI on a clip.

Yes, I have a cleaner shrimp.

 

[ReefWreak]

It sounds like you're doing everything you can and should be doing at this point short of tearing the tank down and QTing everyone/everything.

If you do add nori, I've heard of people soaking it in selcon before feeding it, so that it's particularly nutritious. Just something to think about. Sounds like they're getting plenty of food variety as well which is always good.

 

[Wally.B]

TOOL SERILIZATION (For Ich) to avoid Cross contamination to other Healthy tank.

Although I practice good techniques to not cross contaminate my two tanks (for everything including Algae, Cyano, fish deseases like ich) what is the best tool sterilization method?

I use separate buckets, hoses. Even so, I rinse hoses and buckets and never use again till they are fully dry. I use buckets that I have labelled dirty and they only are for water extracts.

I use separate labelled cups to extract water from both tanks for water testing (ie I never put water test kit syringes inside both tanks).

But I do use thongs, cutter and tools like that between tanks.
I rinse them with fresh water, then let dry at least a day before using again in other tank.

Is that good enough to avoid an ich transfer? Or is there something better that I can do during this ich outbreak. (Like use Hydrogen Peroxide or vinegar to sterile tools before drying).

 

[Wally.B]

Nitrate Improvement (SPS TANK) Algae Scrubber?

I don't want to think about the LPS tank an Ich anymore. Not much I can do right now.

However the SPS tank Nitrate level has dropped to > 5ppm, but <10ppm.
That's an improvement over >>>10ppm and <25ppm not so long ago.
Slow drop is good.

I wonder if the ATS waking up is the contributing factor.

We'll see.

 

[reefmutt]

Hey Wally, as to the scrubber and the cyano, I think you are in the right track with additives. As for lighting, I'd be inclined to keep the intensity but lower photoperiod- not the reverse. The algea loves bright light - not sure one can over light algea but it can (I think) get exhausted from photosynthesizing too long..
Regardless, it seems to be heading in the right direction.. that's good.

 

[reefmutt]

I have seen ich appear in systems where there was absolutely no additions for months. Fish like the powder brown tang are just susceptible to it.
I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.
I agree with reefwreck 100%
You could also try feeding him some spectrum medicated pellets.. just make sure he eats them all and they done land on the corals. Tricky to do perhaps.

 

[Wally.B]

I have seen ich appear in systems where there was absolutely no additions for months. Fish like the powder brown tang are just susceptible to it.
I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.
I agree with reefwreck 100%
You could also try feeding him some spectrum medicated pellets.. just make sure he eats them all and they done land on the corals. Tricky to do perhaps.

Cool. He is a pellet lover. Doesn't know what to do with the Nori. (He seems to only eat Pellets since that is what he was fed in store)

But I didn't know about the Spectrum Medicated Pellet (Ick Shield)

https://www.bigalspets.com/ca/new-life-spectrum-ick-shield-sinking-pellets.html?sku=62614

Just called big Als and they can order them. I have to wait till Tuesday for next ship in date.

That is exactly what I need.

May Kill two birds with one stone. The Green Palys that are overtaking my tank slowly are the only ones that tend to catch left over Pellets. LET THEM EAT (any left overs)!

MANY THANKS FOR THIS!!!!

 

[Wally.B]

I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.

Didn't take long for the Algae Blenny to find and STUFF himself on the Nori.

I used to feed him Nori, but then stopped, so he would take care of Tank Algae.

However the Tang is constantly watching the Blenny eat, and may eventually learn from him.

Btw. The Brown Tang isn't as bad looking as he was this morning. All kind of covered in a Slime/Web. That's why I panicked.
He just woke up (since Kids going to school again. I fed tank early).

Appears he shakes the stuff off, after he get moving in the tank. It must be the mucus that is fighting off the Ick Parasite. (Freaked me out)

But those med Pellets are coming soon.

 

[reefmutt]

There was a contributor to mhucasey's (matt) Build thread who was a biologist I think. His name was reefvet- haven't seen him around for a while.. anyways, he said that nori is metabolized by the fish and produces aspartic acid- a beneficial amino acid for the corals.. it is what is contained in several amino acid supplements available on the market like the Julian sprung amino supplement. It's all that is in there. Just a little FYI..
I bet if you keep adding the nori, the tang will come around to eating it..

 

[sensei]

Wally,

The best thing is to treat all fish in that tank with TTM and leave the tank fishless 72 days to get rid of ich once and for all. TTM is really easy to do.