My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Ready for Hospital Tank (But Watching for now) IS THIS ICH 100%?

I have the Hospital TANK setup ready (but empty). Easy to activate since I just move Sump from Frag Tank (which has a mini filter in it ).

Final Fish trap can be built/installed quickly.

But the Powder Blue is looking better which is strange since from Past Ich infestations, ICH only got worse (Larger White Spots and more).

He is eating excellent, not acting weird (swimming same as always), and breathing appears normal.

I noticed those fine tiny white spots the next day after 15% water change. Doesn't explain much but could be related.

(Is is possible this is a Stress Reaction, and not Ich?)
From what I read about Ich is that you don't actually see the Ich Parasite. (Contrary to what I though for years).
The white spots are not ich, but a mucus the fish excretes to fight off the parasite. (The Ich parasite is invisible to human eye)

I think best to watch for a Little longer (It's not instant death like Velvet when it shows on Skin). I will Continue to Feed the Garlic Dipped Food.

If Powder Blue make full recovery, no point in disturbing and treating fish if not needed. I have no plans to add fish in future, since Powder Brown was Last add.

Worse case if Ich shows up for 2nd round, or appears on other fish, I can still do whatever is needed since I am prepared.

 

[Wally.B]

SPS DT FINAL Lighting Setup (PARS) Tank Mapping

Last fine tuning and readings before I return Quantum Meter.

Roughly (250-350 PARS) in the main Placement Sections of Tank.

If the Corals want more Light they can Grow and Reach up.

This should be good enough for various SPS placements.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG TANK (PAR READING) SETUP

(250-300 PARS) should be ideal for the Frag Tank.

Water depth is less than DT, so they can grow to reach for more PARS.

 

[reefmutt]

Hey Wally, is the tang still fairly clean? Often,the fish gets a reprieve when the parasite drops off to reproduce in the gravel. Then it comes back.. hopefully the garlic and heavy feedings will keep him strong.
Some, some people have used hydrogen peroxide as a preventative to ich. Look it up. I'm sure there is some info out there. Now would be the time to use it- when the parasite is mostly off the fish... by no means is this a cure but sometime it helps and it is quite safe for the reef..

 

[Wally.B]

Steps for Converting from PhotoBucket to FlickR for missing images on Reef Central

Steps for Converting from PhotoBucket to FlickR for missing images on Reef Central

Steps for Converting from PHotoBucket to FlickR to solve missing images on Reef Central

I just posted a thread to show steps on how to convert from PhotoBucket to FlickR since all Photo Bucket Images are missing.

It's some work, but may be worth it to you in some special cases.

I show one example to restore one of my thread that is kind of worth restoring.
Took me about 30 minutes to do this thread restore, and also take screenshot to make thread how to do it.

Here you go.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2649639

 

[Wally.B]

LAST CHECK (SPS Tank Circulation) Video Shows Ciculation Flow (Good enough or Too much?)

I think I have everything covered based on my checklist. No additives!! Tank Chemistry/Stability, Frequent Water changes, Ideal PARS, Nutrients Input/Export.

However I'm still not certain about Circulation.
I have plenty of power.capacity for flow, and I am using about 40-50% of available.

I TOOK A VIDEO with some fish food in tank to show flow (at one higher setting, NOT Max Possible).


I moved things (pump directions) around before shooting video since Flow was too direct at top corals. I noticed they close up on PE, and worry about some areas that look like they have been sandpapered. Not Burned tips.

YOUTUBE VIDEO (Of Flake Food flowing in tank) https://youtu.be/Rah7tnyYeRE

All Flow is controller controlled (Programming is mixed up for random flows, varying all day long):

1) MAX SPECT GYRE XF150 At left (ICECAP/Apex 50% various patterns)
2) Jecod CP-40 right side (Wifi Controller various patterns)
3) Rotating SEa Swirl on (Variable Speed DC Waveline Pump/APEX)

I am under impression from what everyone says that SPS need lots of flow.
But that may be true when they become colonies and start blocking flow.
It shouldn't be narrow laminar flow direct at corals.

This 65 Gallon Tank is mostly open space, with tiny frags.

NOTE: I run circulation around 25% during night time.

Any input would be appreciated since I'm getting some new frags to try new Lighting out. So far things look on the upswing.

Is this Flow Good? Too much? Is laminar flow pointed too much as corals?

 

[reefmutt]

Watched the flake flow video (I'm like a poet! )
Looks pretty good to me.
Sps love good random flow, they can even take some direct flow of it is intermittent.
The flow coming from a gyre is like a wall and can be pretty strong but if it is getting broken up and/or redirected by other streams of flow, it is great.
I don't think you have too much.
As for night time, there is some debate about reducing flow at night. I'm not really a fan of overnight flow reduction as it can lead to lower oxygen in low flow areas. Obviously, in an open scape with no sand and small frags, it is not as much of an issue but in systems with deep sand beds or dense rockwork or large colonies where water should be getting moved at all time, I don't think it's a good idea.
In your case, it probably isn't an issue but also not necessary at all.
This is my opinion. Others may claim that it does wonders for their tank, I have never seen any benefits.
Thanks for the tutorial on switching from pb to Flickr.. still not sure I have it in me but...

 

[Wally.B]

Watched the flake flow video (I'm like a poet! )
Looks pretty good to me.
Sps love good random flow, they can even take some direct flow of it is intermittent.
The flow coming from a gyre is like a wall and can be pretty strong but if it is getting broken up and/or redirected by other streams of flow, it is great.
I don't think you have too much.
As for night time, there is some debate about reducing flow at night. I'm not really a fan of overnight flow reduction as it can lead to lower oxygen in low flow areas. Obviously, in an open scape with no sand and small frags, it is not as much of an issue but in systems with deep sand beds or dense rockwork or large colonies where water should be getting moved at all time, I don't think it's a good idea.
In your case, it probably isn't an issue but also not necessary at all.
This is my opinion. Others may claim that it does wonders for their tank, I have never seen any benefits.
Thanks for the tutorial on switching from pb to Flickr.. still not sure I have it in me but...

Thanks Matt for the "Full Flow Fluid Flake Test" blessing [say that fast Five Times]

I made a small adjustment based on your points. And the fact that I've observed some Continuous Laminar flow damage to a couple of corals.
I also am reading your Great Thread page by page and watched a similar Video you posted of your Gyre's working back in 2015. Your tank had more random flow, and much gentler.
My tank is smaller, so everything is tight including circulation and lighting.

The two Left/Right Side Gyre's will simply flow more horizontally, direct at each other, at same level in tank.

Which ever is running more powerful (left or right) it will just rotate the water column in that direction. Giving a good flow at base of tank, under rocks.

When the programming has both Gyre's "ON" they will crash into each other and mix things up more in the middle. Even when both on, the flow rate vary.

I also pointed the Sea Swirl slightly more down, to do the downward flow sweep, since it is in constant motion, and ever so often it will break up the two Gyre Type Pumps as well.

As far as Evening. I only slightly reduce flow, for the sake of the sleeping fish.

 

[Wally.B]

Thanks for the tutorial on switching from pb to Flickr.. still not sure I have it in me but...

No problem, hope it helps Folks that have small threads to preserve. The Switch to FlickR is a bit effort. I only did one small thread.

You may want to consider doing the "~original" switch while the Reef Central UNLIMITED EDIT is available. I don't know the date, but I understand it will end soon.
That URL tag fix is no work at all.

Also the Google-Chrome Capture is something you should consider doing before your PB images disappear. A quick way to have your whole thread archived on your personal computer.
It's just one Keystroke Click per Thread page, and you have it all.

What I learned is my thread was not so important while it was there. But when images were gone it became useless. Maybe more for me since my Images are very detailed with The Extra Edit Overlays I do.
After the restore, and reviewing the thread, it was good to have it since I noticed some important forgotten, but useful things.

 

[Wally.B]

NEW FRAGS (For New Lighting and Flow) Tank Setup

I visited GTAreef today.
I was going to pick up a very special coral that I had on hold. A Strawberry Shortcake SPS.

I decided to leave it with Thang since in his Frag tank it will survive.
It's looked to Pretty to bring home to my not proven Tank at this point.

So for this trial I got a replacement for the Deep Blue Acro that Bleached recently, another Acro I can't remember the name, and a Green Pollicipora.

Something less risky to test the Tank with.

But I did bring home one special coral, an Ice Fire Acorpara Echinata.
Looked Really Cool with Nice Blue Tips against a white contrast. Didn't look like the same under my lighting (more purple tipped), but MH lights were not on.

Here is a sneak peek (Fresh out of bag).

Will have Better pics when they acclimatize a bit on the Holding Rack at the back the Tank. (Starting them all bit lower, since Tank Lighting is on the higher side now).

 

[Wally.B]

Before I forget the names.

Not the exact Colors I saw in GTAreef's Tank. We'll see how they look when MH Lights come on.

 

[Wally.B]

Removed CARBON from Sump (ATS Idle)

I am scratching my head why my Algae Scrubber has literally halted.
Especially since it's the FIRST Stage in Sump, Before the Skimmer.

The snails and Cowrie have literally polished it Sparkling clean.

It used to produce a ton of Macro every week/month, now nothing. ATS lights Still ON 20 hours a day.

Yet there is Green Film Algae on DT Glass.

Skimmer is producing good skimmage. Thick and Dark.

So I REMOVED the CARBON in the SUMP since it may not be needed.
Have read that folks have had RTN with Carbon and GFO.
With Carbon gone, both ATS and Corals have a better pass at some nutrients.

Will keep GFO on for now, but it's barely a Tiny Trickle.

 

[reefmutt]

Nice frags!
Curious to know the nutrient levels in that system with scrubber..

 

[reefmutt]

Wally you mentioned the ~original. I have a question that remains unanswered and I suspect you'll know the answer..
Isn't that method just a work around to pb's block on the accounts of all people who haven't paid?
Doesn't RC still only carry a link to the original photo stored in pb and this method simply restores the link?
Once pb realizes people are doing this won't they just block that link as well?
I have little understanding of how it actually works.. this method seems to be the easiest for restoring photos, I just don't understand how it will actually work long term...

 

[Wally.B]

Wally you mentioned the ~original. I have a question that remains unanswered and I suspect you'll know the answer..
Isn't that method just a work around to pb's block on the accounts of all people who haven't paid?
Doesn't RC still only carry a link to the original photo stored in pb and this method simply restores the link?
Once pb realizes people are doing this won't they just block that link as well?
I have little understanding of how it actually works.. this method seems to be the easiest for restoring photos, I just don't understand how it will actually work long term...

You are correct. The URL link is all that is stored on Reef Central.
The photo is pulled from where ever that link points to when you view the Reef Central Web page. The photo is never on Reef Central unless you upload a photo.

So you are correct. This may be only a short term fix. PB may block it so may not be worth the effort to use the ~original fix. The ~original fix is useful right now to get a copy of your Thread as I documented with the Googe-Chrome Page Grabber (only for people who lost photos).

I did play with why the ~original is working. There must be a reason, but I can't figure it out.

What I'm hoping for is that they can't block this fix, since it could render their native web site from working. I doubt that they won't find a block. If they blocked (all Network IP addresses from Reef Central servers / combined with unpaid accounts) , they might be able stop ~original from working. But they haven't, so I wonder what is special about the ~original extension.

So in your case, the ~original fix really has no value since for some reason your Photo's are showing up. I assume you have an paid account that will expire in 2018. Why are your photo's showing up and nobody else's?

 

[Wally.B]

Nice frags!
Curious to know the nutrient levels in that system with scrubber..

When you say nutrient levels do you mean Nitrate and Phosphate only.

I kind of stopped testing since it was always the same after P bottomed out around 0.04-0.06, but let me test again.

 

[Wally.B]

Nitrate and Phosphates (Have Increased) But No Algae in ATS???

hmm. Last time I measured P was 3 weeks ago and it was 0.05ppm.

Now P is up to 0.12 ppm.

Nitrate is now around or just below 25 ppm. Was always closer to 10.

I only removed Carbon and tuned down GFO last night.

At these levels there should be movement in Scrubber.

I will test again tonight, since I feed fish not too long before testing. Could be a bad reading with Fish Food Floating around.

 

[Wally.B]

Green Horrida (Woke Up) MH Lights ON

It was no justice in the last picture of the Green Horrida.

When MH lights came on it woke up and now looks Green. The others are coming around.

 

[Wally.B]

Algae Scrubber (Reducing Photo Period to 12 hours)

When the N & P dropped and Algae Scrubber Stopped I increased Photo Period of Scrubber from 18 to 20 hours hoping it would start up again.

Maybe that was the wrong way to go. I may be burning things up in there with limited Nutrients.

I just reduced Photo Period down to 12 hours and see if things pick up.

 

[Wally.B]

Mesenterial Filaments (On SPS) during Feeding

Hey Matt,

As I mentioned to you, I'm reading your great thread.

Here is something that I learned that you probably forgot you posted Long ago.

In this post of yours
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2459858&page=18

You mention that after feeding fish the SPS would extend their Filaments.

I just noticed this in my tank today after being aware of it from your thread.

In the past, I always thought is was the Corals releasing a Slime of some kind like my Candy Canes of or other LPS do when touched.

I assume this feeding reaction is good.