My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
POLY LAB (MEDIC) Reef Safe Parasite Treatment ??? True or Not?
I know everybody says there is no Reef Safe Ick Treaments.
But is that old talk on the Forums. Seem this stuff relatively new.
But look at the reviews from Aquarium Owners. All Current 2017.
Get's rid of Ich in a Ich Infested Tank.
https://www.polyplab.com/collections/all-products/products/medic
Here is the YouTube Video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3nSUwOrGbU
I need to google more, and see what other people say (not on company web site).
I know everybody says there is no Reef Safe Ick Treaments.
But is that old talk on the Forums. Seem this stuff relatively new.
But look at the reviews from Aquarium Owners. All Current 2017.
Get's rid of Ich in a Ich Infested Tank.
https://www.polyplab.com/collections/all-products/products/medic
Here is the YouTube Video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3nSUwOrGbU
I need to google more, and see what other people say (not on company web site).
Wally.B
Active member
Still digging about Poly Lab Medic Product.
The part that make me think is why would a Reputable Company like Polyp Labs who make excellent products like Poly Lab Poly Booster, Reef Riods risk their reputation trying to scam reefers with a "Snake Oil" Product.
Matt, you even use their "Colors" product.
The part that make me think is why would a Reputable Company like Polyp Labs who make excellent products like Poly Lab Poly Booster, Reef Riods risk their reputation trying to scam reefers with a "Snake Oil" Product.
Matt, you even use their "Colors" product.
Wally.B
Active member
Based on my extensive Internet Searching....
Poly Lab Medic is a dead end for quick fix cure.
It's just a way to control Ich in tank, no different the low concentrations of Copper used by fish stores, but it's reef safe.
Very similar to Hydrogen Peroxide treatment method (which can be used in reef Tank).
Sound like both kill the Ich Parasite while it's travelling in Water Column (from fish, to on the way to fish).
Helps fish get stronger and then up to fish to fight it off (if it can).
TTM and Fallow Tank is only way to get rid of ich short term, since even if you QT fish, and you don't QT corals ICH can be introduced to tank.
Ich can even transfer from Tank to Tank if in close proximity by water mist.
Poly Lab Medic is a dead end for quick fix cure.
It's just a way to control Ich in tank, no different the low concentrations of Copper used by fish stores, but it's reef safe.
Very similar to Hydrogen Peroxide treatment method (which can be used in reef Tank).
Sound like both kill the Ich Parasite while it's travelling in Water Column (from fish, to on the way to fish).
Helps fish get stronger and then up to fish to fight it off (if it can).
TTM and Fallow Tank is only way to get rid of ich short term, since even if you QT fish, and you don't QT corals ICH can be introduced to tank.
Ich can even transfer from Tank to Tank if in close proximity by water mist.
Wally.B
Active member
Powder Brown Tang has Died.
At least he was kind enough to not hide deep in rocks, so it was easy to remove him.
I have learned a lot from this experience, so no regrets.
I enjoyed Tangs presence. It changed the Chromis Personalities. They learned swim in current, and they stopped fighting.
I discovered the Tetra Pellets which all my fish now eat.
And I will getting another Fish for my Ich Filled tank since Ich is everywhere, but some fish can resist it better.
I will QT longer next time to be sure Store Fish doesn't have the ich coming in.
At least he was kind enough to not hide deep in rocks, so it was easy to remove him.
I have learned a lot from this experience, so no regrets.
I enjoyed Tangs presence. It changed the Chromis Personalities. They learned swim in current, and they stopped fighting.
I discovered the Tetra Pellets which all my fish now eat.
And I will getting another Fish for my Ich Filled tank since Ich is everywhere, but some fish can resist it better.
I will QT longer next time to be sure Store Fish doesn't have the ich coming in.
reefmutt
Active member
Sorry to hear about the tang..
Polyp Lab's medic is hydrogen peroxide. That's it.
It can disrupt the life cycle of ich but it is by no means an absolute cure. Nothing that is reef safe is 100% effective.
I use a few of polyp lab's products and like them. Full disclosure- I was once an owner of the company that makes and distributes polyp Lab.. many years ago.. no affiliation any more.
Polyp Lab's medic is hydrogen peroxide. That's it.
It can disrupt the life cycle of ich but it is by no means an absolute cure. Nothing that is reef safe is 100% effective.
I use a few of polyp lab's products and like them. Full disclosure- I was once an owner of the company that makes and distributes polyp Lab.. many years ago.. no affiliation any more.
Wally.B
Active member
I've been thinking.
My biggest worry would be to transfer Ich to my SPS tank since I have the Yellow Tang, and the Tomini Tang. (By water, By fish, By Corals).
I never put stuff in SPS tank from Kitchen tank, and I don't even trust my Frag Tank (which is Fallow). I do put SPS tank stuff into Frag Tank.
But I just realized I already transferred one of the Blue Green Chromis's months ago. One that was near death since he was being bullied by the other Chromis's. He was a easy catch and simply swam into the net.
At that time I didn't have ich, or didn't know I had ich.
Yet, maybe I did a Tank Tansfer Method without knowing it.
When I caught the fish, I was more worried about bring over water from other tank (to bring over Algae, Cyano, or something like that).
I first had Chromis in one container to rinse of any water, then I move it to my QT to get stronger.
Then I move it to my Refuge in Sump to acclimatize fish and see if wouldn't die from three tansfers. It didn't die and it went to SPS tank.
He is alive and well in my SPS tank.
Or maybe there was no ich on the Chromis.
I'll never know, but what I do know is my SPS tank didn't get Ich, and doesn't have Ich after many months.
My biggest worry would be to transfer Ich to my SPS tank since I have the Yellow Tang, and the Tomini Tang. (By water, By fish, By Corals).
I never put stuff in SPS tank from Kitchen tank, and I don't even trust my Frag Tank (which is Fallow). I do put SPS tank stuff into Frag Tank.
But I just realized I already transferred one of the Blue Green Chromis's months ago. One that was near death since he was being bullied by the other Chromis's. He was a easy catch and simply swam into the net.
At that time I didn't have ich, or didn't know I had ich.
Yet, maybe I did a Tank Tansfer Method without knowing it.
When I caught the fish, I was more worried about bring over water from other tank (to bring over Algae, Cyano, or something like that).
I first had Chromis in one container to rinse of any water, then I move it to my QT to get stronger.
Then I move it to my Refuge in Sump to acclimatize fish and see if wouldn't die from three tansfers. It didn't die and it went to SPS tank.
He is alive and well in my SPS tank.
Or maybe there was no ich on the Chromis.
I'll never know, but what I do know is my SPS tank didn't get Ich, and doesn't have Ich after many months.
Wally.B
Active member
Yup. Maybe in a fishery, FOLR Tank, but not in a Reef Tank.
So now I'm pretty happy the Heavy ICH maintenance is over.
Strange the Kitchen tanks look better since I notice the Healthy Corals again (It's instantly back to spectacular).
VS staring at the ICH spots daily.
First Family reaction was "get another Fish".
Yes, I miss having a Nice Swimmer in the tank.
But I think best to just enjoy the Coral Hobby for now in the tank.
The 3 Large Blue Green Chromis are Nutrient Processing Machines (will eat endlessly), and great for the Corals.
The Alage Blenny controls any Algae that starts up.
He is entertaining when he shows up, and stares directly at you.
The HawkFish eats and keep copepods and other Zoa Irritating pests in check.
He is always seen perched on his favorite few rocks.
Everything was in Harmony till the Tang was brought in. And harmony is back.
Maybe the only thing I can add to bring more life in this tank is a bunch more Blue Green Chromis fish.
Get 8-12 more medium. I never see big ones for sale like mine.
I read the more there are then the less they fight due to distraction/confusion.
Cheap fish, but big metalic color flare for the $.
They seem to be Ich Resistant and I really Love seeing them in schools.
If they start killing each other off again. Been there. Done that. It's kind of Nature. Only the strongest Survive.
And it's always only One Fish at a time. The smallest, weakest, or wimpy one (That gets selected to be excluded from the school).
But is not a horrible, awful disease that degrades a Beautiful Fish, with Suffering and slow death.
So now I'm pretty happy the Heavy ICH maintenance is over.
Strange the Kitchen tanks look better since I notice the Healthy Corals again (It's instantly back to spectacular).
VS staring at the ICH spots daily.
First Family reaction was "get another Fish".
Yes, I miss having a Nice Swimmer in the tank.
But I think best to just enjoy the Coral Hobby for now in the tank.
The 3 Large Blue Green Chromis are Nutrient Processing Machines (will eat endlessly), and great for the Corals.
The Alage Blenny controls any Algae that starts up.
He is entertaining when he shows up, and stares directly at you.
The HawkFish eats and keep copepods and other Zoa Irritating pests in check.
He is always seen perched on his favorite few rocks.
Everything was in Harmony till the Tang was brought in. And harmony is back.
Maybe the only thing I can add to bring more life in this tank is a bunch more Blue Green Chromis fish.
Get 8-12 more medium. I never see big ones for sale like mine.
I read the more there are then the less they fight due to distraction/confusion.
Cheap fish, but big metalic color flare for the $.
They seem to be Ich Resistant and I really Love seeing them in schools.
If they start killing each other off again. Been there. Done that. It's kind of Nature. Only the strongest Survive.
And it's always only One Fish at a time. The smallest, weakest, or wimpy one (That gets selected to be excluded from the school).
But is not a horrible, awful disease that degrades a Beautiful Fish, with Suffering and slow death.
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sensei
New member
Matt,
This is why I am quarenting everything that goes into dt, even snails and invertebrates. In my case I have a big system (600g) and ich or any other disease would be a big problem.
Wally.B
Active member
Before I decide on next change to Kitchen tank, I need a break.
For now Kitchen Tank: Grooming Oversized Corals, Expanding Zoa Garden, and general Coral growth to fill things in after grooming.
And some work on Frag Tank again.
Just Fishing for ideas for now, and I will ensure I do QT for whatever fish or fishes I decide on.
I have to plan fish choice on assumption that Tank will be full of ICH since not Fallow.
I was thinking doing some Hydrogen Peroxide dosing (Kitchen Tank) for a while to reduce ICH, since Tang is gone, and other FIsh are not allowing hosting to Parasite.
And for SPS tank, I don't need any more fish. It is maxed out, and I notice they are all getting bigger, so things are getting tight.
Thanks for the Chromis tip, I will read up.
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Wally.B
Active member
Kitchen Tank (Photo Bomb) Been Years
Somehow over the last few years, all I've been paying attention to is my struggles with SPS Tank.
Today, I stepped on a chair to fix a wire on the Canopy and noticed that the tank has certainly changed since last time I was up there. (At least 4 years I looked).
Tough to take an overhead with Permanent Fixture but I got this.
So I decided for the Records to take some photos of the corals.
Here are few Photos of some of the tanks Specimens.
All shot through Aquarium Glass (Using a View not possible)
These are only one of the many colors the Corals Give off all day since I have (4 separately dimmable T5's (Coral Plus, Purple Plus, Blue Plusx2), a Multi Spectrum Kessil, and a Blue LED Actinic Strip)
All FULL SPECTRUM (white) Lighting for these shots (The Best Viewing is under Blue Actinic Lighting BUT really tough to take Photo with the Camera). This gives you an rough idea.
I'll give credit to the Powder Brown Tang for rekindling my Interest in the Kitchen Tank again.
Somehow over the last few years, all I've been paying attention to is my struggles with SPS Tank.
Today, I stepped on a chair to fix a wire on the Canopy and noticed that the tank has certainly changed since last time I was up there. (At least 4 years I looked).
Tough to take an overhead with Permanent Fixture but I got this.
So I decided for the Records to take some photos of the corals.
Here are few Photos of some of the tanks Specimens.
All shot through Aquarium Glass (Using a View not possible)
These are only one of the many colors the Corals Give off all day since I have (4 separately dimmable T5's (Coral Plus, Purple Plus, Blue Plusx2), a Multi Spectrum Kessil, and a Blue LED Actinic Strip)
All FULL SPECTRUM (white) Lighting for these shots (The Best Viewing is under Blue Actinic Lighting BUT really tough to take Photo with the Camera). This gives you an rough idea.
I'll give credit to the Powder Brown Tang for rekindling my Interest in the Kitchen Tank again.
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Wally.B
Active member
3 Strikes and I Give UP on this SPS Tank Setup (Some kind of big change)
The Ice Fire Enchinata Bleached overnight. I accept that, they are sensitive and hard to keep. But tank was stable. Not changed. Didn't even do a water change.
I checked my Water Parameters to make sure things are ok.
ALL Good. Stable. Nitrate tiny drop. PO4 Great with (NO GFO)
ALK=7.7
CALC=425
NO3=5.0
PO4=0.11
I ordered a new PH probe/Cal Solutions, but the China probe show PH range Swing 7.8-7.95 (Could be higher 8.1 but new Probe will show real value).
Nothing is wrong in tank, and I continue with ZERO CHANGES!!!
But I don't see anything great (Too soon of course).
The damaged Tip Frags continue to recede and build up Algae (ie no healing)
I do have a clue that my Plating Monti when happy has always had white Tips.
It had white tips when I starting this Tank and they faded. It's alive, getting Bright pinky tips but not White YET. Maybe normal.
The Forest Forest worries me a bit, since I see white tips, just above the Green Tips. Hoping that is growth not Bleaching. (Hoping for White growth extension as a positive sign).
But it has great PE and covering so much I barely seen green, but it's there. I take pictures almost every day, since that coral is my only Pride and Glory.
What catches my attention is the two Green Slimers. The original looks like it getting a bit of Damage (Little PE), and the One Brought in from Frag Tank while ago (Looks healthy with PE).
Slimers are suppose to be fast growing and easy to keep.
The Red Planet, seem to not be getting any more burnt tips. Good tips are still good.
I am holding off on Picking up the really Nice Strawberry Shortcake, since I don't trust this tank with another Expensive Coral.
SO THESE ARE THE 3 CONDITIONS that I will give up on this TANK (All 3).
1) 3 Months pass (Hands off) and the tank doesn't show SOME overall improvement
2) All the corals I have Die off, or get significantly damaged during the 3 months (Not one does super well)
3) The Forest Fire Digitata Dies, since that should be an easy coral to Keep.
What I'll do I don't know.
-> I will start with an Triton Test.
---------> (The only thing not changed in my setup is my Hand Me down rocks. Are they leaching something bad. They were live rock, killed by Muratic Acid and stored)
---------> Checking with original Rock Owner exactly what he did before I inherited these rocks and starting my SPS tank 3 years ago (nothing but problems since start)
-> It will be MH Bulb replacement time. Maybe switch to LED?
-> Hook Frag Tank into DT?
But for next 3 month, I am going to Work Really hard on the Frag Tank Setup.
Bring in Fresh Frags, and stop trying to Salve the damaged ones. The healing Acro is showing positive performance. Getting Purple color glow.
I have arranged a Loaner Radion XR15, and will try that in SPS Tank on the Other Half Side (side that doesn't have MH light)
I have to stop Losing One Frag after another. Costing me too much aggravation, and money.
The Ice Fire Enchinata Bleached overnight. I accept that, they are sensitive and hard to keep. But tank was stable. Not changed. Didn't even do a water change.
I checked my Water Parameters to make sure things are ok.
ALL Good. Stable. Nitrate tiny drop. PO4 Great with (NO GFO)
ALK=7.7
CALC=425
NO3=5.0
PO4=0.11
I ordered a new PH probe/Cal Solutions, but the China probe show PH range Swing 7.8-7.95 (Could be higher 8.1 but new Probe will show real value).
Nothing is wrong in tank, and I continue with ZERO CHANGES!!!
But I don't see anything great (Too soon of course).
The damaged Tip Frags continue to recede and build up Algae (ie no healing)
I do have a clue that my Plating Monti when happy has always had white Tips.
It had white tips when I starting this Tank and they faded. It's alive, getting Bright pinky tips but not White YET. Maybe normal.
The Forest Forest worries me a bit, since I see white tips, just above the Green Tips. Hoping that is growth not Bleaching. (Hoping for White growth extension as a positive sign).
But it has great PE and covering so much I barely seen green, but it's there. I take pictures almost every day, since that coral is my only Pride and Glory.
What catches my attention is the two Green Slimers. The original looks like it getting a bit of Damage (Little PE), and the One Brought in from Frag Tank while ago (Looks healthy with PE).
Slimers are suppose to be fast growing and easy to keep.
The Red Planet, seem to not be getting any more burnt tips. Good tips are still good.
I am holding off on Picking up the really Nice Strawberry Shortcake, since I don't trust this tank with another Expensive Coral.
SO THESE ARE THE 3 CONDITIONS that I will give up on this TANK (All 3).
1) 3 Months pass (Hands off) and the tank doesn't show SOME overall improvement
2) All the corals I have Die off, or get significantly damaged during the 3 months (Not one does super well)
3) The Forest Fire Digitata Dies, since that should be an easy coral to Keep.
What I'll do I don't know.
-> I will start with an Triton Test.
---------> (The only thing not changed in my setup is my Hand Me down rocks. Are they leaching something bad. They were live rock, killed by Muratic Acid and stored)
---------> Checking with original Rock Owner exactly what he did before I inherited these rocks and starting my SPS tank 3 years ago (nothing but problems since start)
-> It will be MH Bulb replacement time. Maybe switch to LED?
-> Hook Frag Tank into DT?
But for next 3 month, I am going to Work Really hard on the Frag Tank Setup.
Bring in Fresh Frags, and stop trying to Salve the damaged ones. The healing Acro is showing positive performance. Getting Purple color glow.
I have arranged a Loaner Radion XR15, and will try that in SPS Tank on the Other Half Side (side that doesn't have MH light)
I have to stop Losing One Frag after another. Costing me too much aggravation, and money.
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I'm sorry to hear you're still having difficulties, I know it's tough, and we've all been there. At least you can take solace that at a minimum, your kitchen tank is BEAUTIFUL. Wonder if it is worth sticking a frag or two in there and see how they do, even if only for a temporary basis.
Unfortunately I'm having similar STN (Slow tissue necrosis) on some of my SPS while others are growing like weeds. I've also gone for the testing everything twice, reconciling with Triton, and going through the beginner's checklist of things to think about. Honestly, the downs are as much part of the hobby as the ups. I still wonder about efficacy of LEDs... At least you're on tried-and-true halides (no debate, please, just confirming nobody can blame LEDs for your issues).
Two other last ditch recommendations to consider:
1. Maybe throw a poly-filter pad in case there is any heavy metals in the water column
2. Look into chloramines or another form of chlorination getting through the RO/DI filters?
They're both Hail Mary's that are unlikely to make a difference or explain your issue, but they've surprised people in the past, so if you're at the end of your rope, why not.
Unfortunately I'm having similar STN (Slow tissue necrosis) on some of my SPS while others are growing like weeds. I've also gone for the testing everything twice, reconciling with Triton, and going through the beginner's checklist of things to think about. Honestly, the downs are as much part of the hobby as the ups. I still wonder about efficacy of LEDs... At least you're on tried-and-true halides (no debate, please, just confirming nobody can blame LEDs for your issues).
Two other last ditch recommendations to consider:
1. Maybe throw a poly-filter pad in case there is any heavy metals in the water column
2. Look into chloramines or another form of chlorination getting through the RO/DI filters?
They're both Hail Mary's that are unlikely to make a difference or explain your issue, but they've surprised people in the past, so if you're at the end of your rope, why not.
Wally.B
Active member
Thank you so much. Any word of support really helps one to keep trying. I don't give up easy.
Thanks for the Kitchen Tank Compliment.
Yes I put in 1/2 of frag of each type into it. 3 Kinds. They are brown, but living in Kitchen tank. In SPS tank, all have died. Kitchen Tank is LPS so too low for SPS. Nitrates High, P High.
One is bird of Paradise SPS. Doing great since low lighting is ok. Same Bird died in SPS tank. Puzzling since Birds are hard to kill. SPS tank used to have one. Grew best, was centerpiece COLONY (Only Colony I ever grew from baby Frag in the SPS tank)
I agree, on not going to LED. MH/T5 is tried and proven Golden Standard!!
LED is for 1/2 Frag Tank (for comparison)
I have run Detoxers. "Kent Heavy Metal Sponge" and " Seachem Curpsorb", short period since too long removes Trace Elements. If there was anything, resin color would change. It didn't. BTW. I did do a Triton test last year. Squeaky clean.
Maybe I should put back BOTH, since I now do twice a week water changes with new Setup so I replenish Trace Elements. They will polish any heavy metals out if any are present.
My RO is perfect. I change Carbons, every 3 months. Last stage is Color Changing DI. I have Inline TDS (before and after DI) and I get 5 IN, 0 Out.
Maybe one suspicion. RO water is 0.00TDS pure. but my float valves on RO Reservoirs (both of them have metal float arms). But same water is used for Kitchen tank.
MY PROBLEM IS THIS.. Every time I loose or damage a really nice new Frag, I want to adjust things for the next time.
So I need to give up on new frags in DT. Just let these recover, or all die. New ones for Frag Tank.
I think it's Three things to solve this. I'll find out in 3 months if true.
1) HANDS OUT OF TANK for 3 months (no changes)
2) Stop trying to raise Beautiful Expensive Hard to keep corals.
3) Must learn more to acclimatize Corals coming from ALL T5 , or ALL LED Tanks, and learn placement under T5/MH.
----> Maybe in the old days when everyone was MH/T5 the transition was easier.
(All FRAGS I place in under lighting/Medium Circulation don't damage. Even after 2-3 weeks. Then I put on Rock in Ideal Stonger Light/Circulation and it's too quick)
Thanks again. 3 months is long wait. Frag tank is good distraction.
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Wally.B
Active member
INTERESTING (CupriSorb Is exhausted) Just removed last week
ReefWreak, you may be on to something.
When I pulled out the CurpiSorb last week, I did that when I shut down GFO with Scrubber starting up. (I was running in tank for a few months, on and off a few times)
I just tossed the baggie in a bin to dry.
When I looked at it next time, it was already dried out, so looked white (not darkened). Which to me was is proof/indication of no metals (Thus a dead end solution).
After post above, I was gong to throw it back in, but I had a 1/2 jar so thought I would put in fresh resin.
Then I noticed that the OLD CupriSorb when went went Dark. Not blue like it says on (Jar Instructions) for Copper, but Dark Brown/Black (which also is specifies on Jar)
The new one now in Baggie stays white (Even WET).
So maybe OLD Cuprisor did fill up and Exhaust and could explain the setback. Especially on the Monti that lost it white tips. Certainly explains the Bird of Paradise.
Would explain why any sensitive Coral like Red Dragon, would bleach right away. Tried 5 Red Dragons. Would explain why I can't keep a single Milli for more than a week (tried at least 8)
CurpriSorb is tuned resin for Copper, but will pull out all Heavy metals over time (thus two kinds of beads, I guess)
And DEAD GOD, maybe this is why my fish is SPS tank haven't been contaminated with ICH from other tank (Light Copper in Water).
Getting paranoid here. (Dark Brown, may not be exhausted color. Blue/Black is exhausted) I googled for images, can't find) Let's see.....
Let me run the fresh baggie and see if it darkens, and if corals spark up.
I put in in a fresh Nylon Sock, in Tank Return Drain. Full flow thru.
This could be a game changer!!!! Keeping Fingers cross.
If it does change things, then it's either old Metals from that Copper Contamination early this year, or a leaching metal from the RO Float Arms, or something else.
And frequent water changes, just keep things barely good.
THANKS!
BTW. I just emailed SEACHEM to confirm Color of OLD resin.
ReefWreak, you may be on to something.
When I pulled out the CurpiSorb last week, I did that when I shut down GFO with Scrubber starting up. (I was running in tank for a few months, on and off a few times)
I just tossed the baggie in a bin to dry.
When I looked at it next time, it was already dried out, so looked white (not darkened). Which to me was is proof/indication of no metals (Thus a dead end solution).
After post above, I was gong to throw it back in, but I had a 1/2 jar so thought I would put in fresh resin.
Then I noticed that the OLD CupriSorb when went went Dark. Not blue like it says on (Jar Instructions) for Copper, but Dark Brown/Black (which also is specifies on Jar)
The new one now in Baggie stays white (Even WET).
So maybe OLD Cuprisor did fill up and Exhaust and could explain the setback. Especially on the Monti that lost it white tips. Certainly explains the Bird of Paradise.
Would explain why any sensitive Coral like Red Dragon, would bleach right away. Tried 5 Red Dragons. Would explain why I can't keep a single Milli for more than a week (tried at least 8)
CurpriSorb is tuned resin for Copper, but will pull out all Heavy metals over time (thus two kinds of beads, I guess)
And DEAD GOD, maybe this is why my fish is SPS tank haven't been contaminated with ICH from other tank (Light Copper in Water).
Getting paranoid here. (Dark Brown, may not be exhausted color. Blue/Black is exhausted) I googled for images, can't find) Let's see.....
Let me run the fresh baggie and see if it darkens, and if corals spark up.
I put in in a fresh Nylon Sock, in Tank Return Drain. Full flow thru.
This could be a game changer!!!! Keeping Fingers cross.
If it does change things, then it's either old Metals from that Copper Contamination early this year, or a leaching metal from the RO Float Arms, or something else.
And frequent water changes, just keep things barely good.
THANKS!
BTW. I just emailed SEACHEM to confirm Color of OLD resin.
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