My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Kitchen Tank Mushrooms (Low Circulation Expansion) Observation

I was working on putting back the Hydor Koralia's that I got back from Warranty replace.

Forgot to turn them on yesterday.

Today, I was walking by tank and noticed that WOW the Mushrooms Tripled in size (Appears when they get no circulation they do this).
Never knew that it can be so drastic.

Got this Photo of a small Mushroom Patch that wasn't small anymore in a matter of 1 day.

They Look Great, but they are just too big and overlapping everything under them (Covering Zoa's etc).
Plus you can see Detritus settling n them, and that isn't a good things.
Within an few minutes of pump on, they went back to original size.

 

[Wally.B]

Tackling PH in (SPS TANK) New Probe, Air Filter?

The temporary China PH probe is showing Better PH.

But I got a new Probe Since the China Probe isn't a sealed unit.
Also got new Calibration Solutions (since been using stored old solutions)

After I install/calibrate new probe well see what PH is like.

However I stumbled upon this Air Filter concept.
Not out on Market yet (AquarForest), but has anyone seen this?

It's a CO2 Scrubber.

Instead of outside AIR, you can run airline to Skimmer thru this filter.
Has Carbon at bottom, and Soda Lime at top.

SODA lime is used Medical Field to purify Air to contain more Oxygen.
It changes color when Expired (ie full of CO2)

I have a un-used DI/Filter Canister that I could make one of these in seconds. Just need to find a Soda Line Supplier nearby.

This could affect my Algae Scrubber since it does need the CO2, but my ATS is before Skimmer, and has it's own AirLine with CO2 air going in.

 

[reefmutt]

Hey wally, the softy tank photos are great! Looking really nice.
That damn sps tank, though...
Please remind me again- the scrubber is on the sps tank?
I’m always getting confused about what is on which tank between the frag tank, kitchen and sps tank..
If you are losing seriatopora and montis in the sps tank, it is really weird.. not to mention acros.. birds nest and montis are much more tolerant than acros..
The cuprisorb is supposed to be pulling what when it turns brown? Do they say?
Really seems odd all the trouble in there..
However, I still think leaving it alone is the best thing to do.
What salt are you using for the auto water changes?
One other question.. remind me again where n and p were in the sps tank one year ago, where they went once the scrubber went on, where they went when scrubber stopped and now they are 5 and .11..
What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there? Do you have any healthy lps in the tank? Have you tried adding some to see how they do? Lps and acros are fully compatible..

 

[Wally.B]

Please remind me again- the scrubber is on the sps tank?
I’m always getting confused about what is on which tank between the frag tank, kitchen and sps tank..

Yes, scrubber is on, and Algae is growing.

If you are losing seriatopora and montis in the sps tank, it is really weird.. not to mention acros.. birds nest and montis are much more tolerant than acros..

Mystery to me too. What the F can be wrong.

The cuprisorb is supposed to be pulling what when it turns brown? Do they say?

Haven't heard back from Seachem. Instructions only say Blue, no mention of brown.

Really seems odd all the trouble in there..

No kidding. Even with some tinkering, things shouldn't be this bad.

However, I still think leaving it alone is the best thing to do.

I did just make one more adjustment. HAD TO. Will explain below.

What salt are you using for the auto water changes?

Tropic Marin Pro ($150 a bucket). Mixed to match tank ALk=7.7

One other question.. remind me again where n and p were in the sps tank one year ago, where they went once the scrubber went on, where they went when scrubber stopped and now they are 5 and .11..

It was around P=0.1 to P=0.2, and N=10, but I will check 100%

What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there? Do you have any healthy lps in the tank? Have you tried adding some to see how they do? Lps and acros are fully compatible..

Interesting Idea to try a piece of my LPS (got tons), but my LPS tank lighting is 5-10 time less intense.

There is one acro that is surviving. Pink Tip Millie (In the middle of tank, but enclose withing rocks, so protected from STRONG Circulation.
And that is what gave me the last clue. (longshot, but possible)

I've been commenting that my NEW FRAG do good at back/bottom of tank on RACK. Then things go bad when glued on rocks.

So I was at GTAreef. He always turns off his DT and FragTank Circulation so I can see corals with PE out.
I asked that he turn on Circulation, since I've NEVER SEEN what proper circulation is.
Everybody including ED' thread say STRONG.
So my tank is setup for OVERSTRONG. But I only use a fraction of power.
When he turned on DT and Frag Tank. It was nothing compared to mine
I'm like 20 times more powerful. Maybe more. My flow is ROUGH.
But his corals look like they get circulation because PE is extended, so it look like movement.

So after last circulation improvement, to clear up water, I even went HIGHER FLOW.

The one Digit that encrusted a rock but never grew stem, started pealing off, bit by bit every day.
My circulation is OVERKILL.
Something you can't see in a video.

I played with my Programming. All was ON or OFF at various powers. SOME POINTS IN DAY ARE PRETTY STRONG, to clear up Particulates.
I changed all pump programming to Pulse and lowered power on each. That is way better. NEVER LAMINAR FLOW.
Now the tank looks like GTA's tank. Gentle Flow, very Random, but reaching into every part of tank.
Now my FRAGS are extending PE, but getting flow.
Looks like GTA's tank.

Probably not the Life Saving reason, but a good change, that doesn't really change Water Quatlity/Parameters.

 

[Wally.B]

What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there?

Matt,
Good question. I did some tracing.

Bonsai which is 1 year old. FAR LEFT PHOTO
Next oldest is Pink Tip Millie (Middle Photo), but it may be called SSC Hairy Acro.
Not an Acro, but the Branching Cyphastrea is my oldest Surviving Coral.

Funny, I went to access my Backup Drive, and took a peek at old photos.
I totally forgot, that 13 years ago, during my early years of exploring I tried SPS in my Kitchen Tank..

Not Pretty, but my short attempt at Digi SPS actually grew and stayed alive.
The SPS never died on me till the day of the BIG CRASH. (AND That big CRASH was not my Fault at all, not one bit)

 

[Wally.B]

CLERANCE SALE (Frags) and a Tubinaria

Price was to good to pass up on these Frags.

Will leave them on the Rack at the Back for as Long as they last.

But what I'm most excited about is I've been looking for Ages for a Tiny Frag of a Tubinaria.

And this one was available for the price of a medium priced frag.

I bought it to cut it up, but after placing in the empty section of tank, it isn't that big.
What was will be interesting is, in the past, the Tubinaria would always indicate water quality if the Yellow Polyps appeared.

 

[reefmutt]

Thanks for the info..
You could be onto something with the flow..
I still think you should add some lps. I assume they would have been torn off their skeletons with your previous flow levels.. put them down low so the light won’t be too bad. They should not be able to open as much as they would in proper flow for them but they should be able to open up uniformly. They are good barometers of flow.
Nice new frags. I love turbinaria as well. Nice steal! Wally don’t cut it up! They are such slow growers and they only start to look good when they get to mini colony size.
When you say your salt is ‘mixed to match’ your tank water, what does that mean?

 

[Wally.B]

Thanks for the info..
You could be onto something with the flow..
I still think you should add some lps. I assume they would have been torn off their skeletons with your previous flow levels.. put them down low so the light won’t be too bad. They should not be able to open as much as they would in proper flow for them but they should be able to open up uniformly. They are good barometers of flow.

Hah! You are correct. LPS flesh would be ripped off the Skeleton with my last Flow Optimization which I just dropped.
Even now it will be a bit to strong.
I've already picked out a small Frogspawn piece to cut for SPS tank.

This is the problem with this Hobby. As much as these Forums are so valuable, nothing is as good as seeing other peoples tanks for things like Circulation.

The Local Fish Store has a nice display, but I can tell it's a SETUP. What I mean, they may have nice Coral Tanks. Very little SPS, and the SPS that I see, isnt' encrusted much, SPS pieces change often (which means SPS doesn't do well, and SPS is just replaced to look impressive).

I've learned everything on my own.
Experimented over 15++ years to figure out my Softie tank. Made every mistake on that one too, before I got it right. The perfection achivevement was fine tuning over last 2 years.
SPS is just 50x harder to figure out, since you can't move Acros around till they say perfect.
And only been doing SPS for 3 years. Maybe need just 3 more months

Nice new frags. I love turbinaria as well. Nice steal! Wally don’t cut it up! They are such slow growers and they only start to look good when they get to mini colony size.

I won't cut it, it looks amazing, now that the polyps are coming out. Really healthy bright yellow one. Will do a good photo eventually. Might be the only Coral I'm left with if this SPS downhill doesn't stop.

Found another tiny Tubinaria piece for sale. Just flat, not cupped, and price/value no where close to this one.
It was a deal for sure.

When you say your salt is ‘mixed to match’ your tank water, what does that mean?

What I mean is I mix salt to exactly the same spec as Tank Water. So TEMP, ALK. In case of TM Salt Alk=7.0 out ot bucket, to I add Alk to bring it to 7.5 with Salinity at 1.025

 

[Wally.B]

SPECIAL PHOTO (High Contrast , WHite Balanced Enhanced) SPS Tank 3 Month Journey

These colors a way off, but with a White Balance Effect, FOCUS isn't ideal, BUT it shows each coral's health clearly.

Just to give you idea of this PHOTO White Balance Adjustment. The Lighting is BLUE from two BLUE PLUS T5's. No other lighting.

I threw away couple of bleached ones.

One current burned went to BACK OF TANK

And the 5 new frags were mounted on Rocks FRONT OF TANK

Now my circulation isn't Sand Blasting the Corals, so can't blame future damage on that factor.

I'll compare at Christmas time, Same Photo Shot/Same Angle.

Won't be doing any weird changes, but I do have to work on bring PH up a bit, since new Probe Shows that Probe Wasn't Expired.
The China probe was garbage.

I have two ways to RAISE PH overall in TANK (Gently!!!!)

-> Safest is work on More Oxgen in Air Line, if that doesn't interfere with Algae Scrubber.
-> Future Possiblity is restart my old Kalk Reactor, but that has to wait till I am eating more ALK/Calcium.

I will play with the White Balance and see if I can get Color Right, but good enough for now.

 

[Wally.B]

PHOTO EXAMPLE (Custom White Balance) BEFORE & AFTER (Same Lighting)

Just want to show how Custom White Balance Works. The Canon Rebel SL1 has this. Many camera's do in the Menu.

It's take a ton of practice to get things accurate.

But this EXAMPLE gives you an idea of the concept.

HERE IS A PHOTO (BLUE Plus T5's Only) Camera on Auto or Manual

Notice that the White Jar TOP does look white (but it's actually blue to my eyes). Photo does have some white balance adjustment but it's not accurate.

Now in this Photo, we take a close up of the WHITE PLASTIC, Blue Looking Cap.

Pasting a cut out of Cap Photo on White Background really show the Cap Color under Blue Plus T5.

Now setting the Custom Balance (in Camera) to that (White Reference Photo), and retaking photo give you this. (Exact Same Lighting)

Now the cap is more WHITE other colors adjusted to what they would look like under white light. (And below is before Shot without Custom-White-Balance)

To be clear, both photos above are exactly same T5 Blue Plus Lighting. 1 Bulb, at FRONT.

Here is a compare of the White CAP in both Photo on WHITE Background

It's not perfect, but in some situations when not such a drastic correction it works very well.

Further adjustments can be made in camera in the WB Shift/Bkt (into BLUE/RED/GREEN/MAGENTA)

 

[Big E]

Hi Wally,

Try not be so micro focused on everything.........you don't seem to do that with the LPS tank.

Matt has mentioned many times to just let things settle in. I agree, just keep things simple and give the tank a few months to balance and stabilize.

When I've had problems in the past I wouldn't buy any new corals for a good three months.

ph- I don't track ph.......as long as your alk is consistent your ph will be fine for the acros. The flucuation and low range readouts you're getting aren't worth focusing on.

Any reliable two part or kalk setup will keep ph at an acceptable level.

------------------------------------

Flow-

Just make sure the corals are getting flow all around them. This video is max/good flow.....most acros will like this, but less in some areas is ok. It's impossible to make every area of the tank perfect....again don't obsess over it.

Flow video by Big E 52, on Flickr

One last suggestion.........you may want to just keep this thread or a separate thread focused on the Sps tank. All the jumping around from all the tanks makes it hard to follow.......my brain hurts:spin2:

Maybe it's just me and my feeble brain that can't keep track of things.

 

[Wally.B]

Hi Wally,

Try not be so micro focused on everything.........you don't seem to do that with the LPS tank.

Matt has mentioned many times to just let things settle in. I agree, just keep things simple and give the tank a few months to balance and stabilize.

When I've had problems in the past I wouldn't buy any new corals for a good three months.

ph- I don't track ph.......as long as your alk is consistent your ph will be fine for the acros. The flucuation and low range readouts you're getting aren't worth focusing on.

Any reliable two part or kalk setup will keep ph at an acceptable level.

------------------------------------

Flow-

Just make sure the corals are getting flow all around them. This video is max/good flow.....most acros will like this, but less in some areas is ok. It's impossible to make every area of the tank perfect....again don't obsess over it.

Flow video by Big E 52, on Flickr

One last suggestion.........you may want to just keep this thread or a separate thread focused on the Sps tank. All the jumping around from all the tanks makes it hard to follow.......my brain hurts:spin2:

Maybe it's just me and my feeble brain that can't keep track of things.

Ed, you points are well taken.

1) Your Video confirms that my Circulation was at least 5x too strong. Just what I noticed in my Frag Sellers tank. It was still too strong yesterday when I lower things. THat is now corrected with lowering of Gyre's and turning on Pulse mode instead of Continuous.
I also JUST put BACK one of my fixed Hydro Koralia at bottom back of tank. Very wide flow, and moves the bottom of tank water, so that I don't have to push the top GYRE's too hard (damaging middle placed corals with Laminar flow)
That may have been a game changer since two Koralia's were in my tank couple of months ago, but I sent them for repair, and use the Gyre's to compensate. Just got them back last week.

I had to admit I increased the circulation by a comment I got from your thread.
You said something to the effect "As Strong as possible without ripping the Flesh off". So that is what I did, but I ripped the flesh off.

2) Thanks for calming me down on PH. I agree that two part dosing will bring up PH, but that is my problem. I'm only dosing 10ml of ESV daily since my corals are not yet consuming enough. When things take off and I'm doing 50ml or more then PH should come up. Correct?

3) Yes the Thread plan was only the SPS tank, I got off on some tangents with Kitchen tank and Frag Tank. I myself have problem finding past Water Test readings.
That was to get me stop touching SPS tank, but a separate thread is appropriate to keep progress, and situations, water chemistry easy to understand.
I will start up a FRAG tank thread,
and no need for a Kitchen Tank thread since not much to talk about.
But I did start a thread on it's 15 year history (few days ago). [COLOR="Blue"]https://w w w . reef 2 reef . com/threads/90-gallon-mixed-lps-tank-15-year-journey-to-%E2%98%85success%E2%98%85-every-accident-disaster-problem.326397/[/COLOR] (REMOVE extra Blanks)

And last but not least, you are correct. I do nothing for my LPS tank except Feed fish, and clean skimmer (dosing hasn't been changed for a year), and I do water changes when I feel like it which is once every month or two.
But the reason for that is I'm not moving damaged corals, or removing dead corals on a weekly basis. Which has been happening in SPS tank.

 

[reefmutt]

Ed beat me here.
I was going to say don’t you dare start that kalk reactor! But I think you got the message already.
I was a bit confused as well..
start your sps tank thread in the sps section.
You’ll get more views and more opinions.

 

[Wally.B]

ok. I'll start Thread in SPS section. (Needle in hackstack Problem)

But Strike 1 isn't Far Away.

Come on, a simple Digi can't stay healthy. Look at my Forest Fire.

No changes, No additives,
No GFO Water changes match DT water.
and this digi isn't happy.

I tested ALK 8.0 from 7.7, will test rest.

It's at the bottom, not bad circulation.
I already see a tiny bit of early brown algae at tips. No green back color left.
Not good.

Only condition is it's been in tank for couple of weeks. Typical problem.

]

As I showed in my tank 10 years ago. Digi's were in horrible conditions and thrived. Alk was a roller coaster Level. (not best colors, but grew like weeds).



Trition Test is cheaper than 2-3 frags. Waiting is worst part.

Before I move Thread (Current situation) to SPS forum, let's put Circulation to rest.
This is what is looks like NOW.


https://www.youtube.com/uploadCURRENT SPS TANK Flow video

I think flow is good now.

 

[reefmutt]

are you controlling alk and ca with something?
What are you putting in your salt water to change alk?
Start it with your above post. Good start..

 

[Wally.B]

are you controlling alk and ca with something?
What are you putting in your salt water to change alk?
Start it with your above post. Good start..

I used to add baking Soda to raise Alk when TM salt was 7.0.
But recent bucket is 7.7 so I add nothing.

For ALK & CALCIUM I used to use AF Comp 1,2,3, but ED convinced me to go Basic with ESV Alk & Calcium. 10ml a day. Dropping to 7.5ml/dahy since Alk is slightly climbing.

I am gathering some history to start the NEW thread with some good details, and well organized.

But here is some proof on an experiment everyone agreed on.

Back in Aug 2nd, I put 5 pieces of SPS into Kitchen Tank.
I would say 3 since 1 was in bad shape, and other fell and I lost it.

Here they were, over month and half ago.

All are alive, in horrid Conditions for N>50? & P=?. Alk/CALC is same as SPS tank, using same ESV dosing. Water change once a month 10%.

Lighting in LPS tank is pretty low (4xT5,Kessil). Circulation a trickle/lagoon.

and they are alive in Kitchen Tank. All died in SPS tank.
Photo TODAY (in kitchen tank).

->Don't worry about the ACRO tip. It fell a couple of times, an just today I found it under rocks, so I glued it on before taking picture.
------> Even that damaged tip, to me look like it's healing over. No brown Algae on the dead part (Which is what happens to all Dying SPS tips in SPS tank).
->>>Yes, brown, but look at the Green Tips. (Nothing like that ever happens in my SPS tank. Green tips)

-> The Bird of Paradise is healthy in Kitchen Tank.
-->>>> It was dying in my SPS tank so I cut off a little piece. Then it died Fully in SPS tank.

--> The 3rd piece (Carolina) is also alive in Kitchen tank. Nothing to show, just very brown. Carolina in SPS tank died.


AND!!!

Remember the Frag Tank, a wasteland, has an Acro that Healed a cut tip, and other frag is living (both died in SPS tank).
But weirder part, is the Self Healing Frag, I cut a tiny piece and put back into SPS tank. it's doing Great (for Now).

IS THIS ACLIMATIZATION of my Corals to my Lighting Setup? Topic for other thread.

 

[Wally.B]

I cannot put an LPS or any Coral piece into SPS tank, since Kitchen Tank had ICH, and not Fallow.

Plus it has Colonial Hydroids that are under control, so don't want to infect sps tank.

I keep the two tanks absolutely Isolated (as best I can) from each other as I mention before.

STuff from SPS tank can go into Kitchen Tank, but never the other way.

 

[Wally.B]

I WILL START THE "NEW THREAD" in 3 Months.

Till then, leave all as is, and during the period gather detailed evidence.

 

[reefmutt]

Wally, based on what is in your sps tank - not much - and that what is there isn’t growing, AND the fact that you have auto water changes going, I’m not sure where the alk and calcium you are adding is going.
Sorry, remind me again how much water is being changed per week in the sps tank?

 

[Wally.B]

Wally, based on what is in your sps tank - not much - and that what is there isn’t growing, AND the fact that you have auto water changes going, I’m not sure where the alk and calcium you are adding is going.
Sorry, remind me again how much water is being changed per week in the sps tank?

Tank/Sump Total Water Volume - Rocks and equipment is approx. 100 Gallons.
Water change is Twice a week (2.5 Gallons), around 5 Gallons each week. Bit less (maybe 4 Gallons), so that make it 20 Gallons a month, or 20%.


I don't think much alk/calc is being consumed. It's the water changes, that keep leveling whatever I add.