Careful what you say Jorge! Knowing Wally, he's already begun the basement reno to accommodate the new 500g sps system!!
His wife won't be happy!!
Gentlemen,
Let's not plan for a Bigger Chicken Coop quite yet.
We don't have any Chickens.
The chicks haven't even hatched yet.
Heck, we barely have eggs. But they are getting nicer each day.
All we have is Just One Worried Rooster!
yes haha...
Matt,
1 question:
I know that rasing the halides can not hurt in Wallys case, but the increase in par reading were 17% comparing old bulbs with T5s vr new bulbs with T5.
I am not sure if Wally was doing halides with T5s before bulb change.
anyway, 17% is not such a big increase. There should have been no need to reduce the photo period plus higher the halides dont you think so??
In your experience how much more can you increase the par for an acro with out shocking it??
I know that we should not be speaking of increasing par, but I want to get a sense of how much more light can an acro recieve in one jump with out problems?
Thanks
yes haha...
Matt,
1 question:
I know that rasing the halides can not hurt in Wallys case, but the increase in par reading were 17% comparing old bulbs with T5s vr new bulbs with T5.
I am not sure if Wally was doing halides with T5s before bulb change.
anyway, 17% is not such a big increase. There should have been no need to reduce the photo period plus higher the halides dont you think so??
In your experience how much more can you increase the par for an acro with out shocking it??
I know that we should not be speaking of increasing par, but I want to get a sense of how much more light can an acro recieve in one jump with out problems?
Thanks
Jorge, only for the sake of being overly cautious.
Simply to not be able to ask the question (in the slim chance that wally's corals start to turn for the worse) "˜was it the lights?'
Having never used a par meter, I have no experience with safe percentage changes.
That is most certainly a question for Ed.
Sorry I can't be more informative on that level.
I'm sure certain corals can handle more than others. I would assume low light corals would not handle intensity increases as well as high lighting corals.
But how long a coral has been in a low light situation would also play a role.
Thanks Matt
not using a par meter may be even better. it has been misleading for me sometimes.
lets me refrase same question.
when moving an acro up or down in your tank do you do it in little jumps or you have also done 6 , 9 or 12" in one jump and no problem for it to adapt?
Knowing the types of corals I have (Wally, you'll get there!), and therefore knowing generally if they like low or high light, and having a good idea of where the hot spots are in my tank, I don't move corals up or down that much but I do sometimes and when I do, I don't do it incrementally. I just move them.
It's rare if ever that I would take a coral from the bottom of the tank and place it at the top, though.
If I have placed a coral at the bottom of the tank, it probably would never get re placed higher than half way up..
Thanks Matt,
your way makes sense.
I got confused, but I remember now that I divided my tank in two sections according to Ed recommendations because even though my tank is deep (30"), aquascaping goes up just 18 inches, and par ranges from 270 at 1" from bottom to 400 at 18"
regards
400 at 18" Deep. Wow, you have strong lighting. What you got there??
How close are your lights to Water surface?
270 at Bottom is very nice.
I have learned from using PAR meter on other People Tank like (GTAreef) T5's are way more powerful than MH (when each is combined)
That is why my 2 T5's make such a difference.
I always have considered going All T5. (But I hate the constant bulb replacement)
400 par at a rock that is 18" from bottom. tank is 30" deep
I have five 400W metal halide lamps with radium blue bulbs and cozumel sun 20" reflectors with glass at 10" above water level. No other source of light in tank.
in my other tanks I changed to leds previously T5s becuase it is difficult to import T5 bulbs in my country. permits are difficult and you can not bring in lugage so shipping and packing is also another thing.
Glad to hear your Salinity is good. Yes I feel the same with a good reference.What about a coral plus. Have you tried one of those?
That bubble gum millie is really nice looking.
You have quite the collection going there!
By the way, the package arrived. My salinity was only off by a hair.
Good to have a solid reference solution.
Thanks again, Wally!
ALL Frag Passing Most Important (Sniff Test)
This is a first for me. PE everywhere (Even the one's showing little, so Closeup Photos show me PE).
All my Frags, new or old, Ice Fires, Pacmans, Even SSC are showing PE.
In past, some would never show PE, some only on day one, some for a short while and fade to nothing.