My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)

[Kharn]

The flow needed to fludize gfo is different then that of carbon. So I like your split idea with two ball valves to control the flow to each reactor or are you going with a one pump one reactor set up?

All TLF Reactors come stock in the box with a Ball Valve
It's 1 pump for 2 Reactors, I'm going with the Eheim 1000 pumps many have said that my original flow was good and the 3000 to powerful.

This seems a bit much. IMO.

"No there is no such thing as over filtering a tank" - TundraGuy Signature



When the FBFs together with a pump are only around $80....that's only $240 for 3x 800L/H FBFs & 3x Eheim 1000s ...

 

[Kharn]

I'm no longer going the Marine Pure block and leaving the Refugium for JUST Algae.

The FBFs will do a better job then the Marine Pure and do the same job and yet the FBFs are cheaper xD.....

 

[Kharn]

New Skimmer Update

Skimmer A Day 5



Skimmer B Day 4



Skimmer C Day 3



:bounce3:

 

[Kharn]

Oh yeah I think it's obvious to say that the HOB overflows have been working flawlessly ...

 

[TundraGuy]

It I wrote that I was referring two having two reactors and two "pumps" per sump. Only the added pump. I am all about reactors. Lol

Looks like the skimmers are working!

 

[Kharn]

It I wrote that I was referring two having two reactors and two "pumps" per sump. Only the added pump. I am all about reactors. Lol

Looks like the skimmers are working!

Yeah Skimmers are all set in I cleaned all the collection cups in hot water and the stuff that came out made me gag the smell was bad....and I was a fish monger who gut and cleaned fish for a living xD...

I'm still keen on the FBFs so cheap for great results and their the latest designs for the intended purpose of what they do which is what a DSB does and others alike.

Going with Chaeto in the Refugiums not Caulerpa just organizing 2x250ml cups per sump (6cups all up) from a local.

Once the FBFs are in & Chaeto in place that will be it sumps will be done!

 

[TundraGuy]

Go bio pellets and you won't need the fuge just add live rock to the sumps and bam instant life. I would not put a light on them to make a cryptic zone.

 

[Kharn]

Go bio pellets and you won't need the fuge just add live rock to the sumps and bam instant life. I would not put a light on them to make a cryptic zone.

I'm not too keen on Bio Pellets....

However when I was at the store today I had 3 staff members hovering around me and 1 of them was the manager who is studying marine biology at uni...anyway they were talking to me about this product called...

"Hydro-Pure Technology" which is meant to be super good at removing things like ammonia, nitrate & phosphate through some for of "electricity through titanium".

Very interesting piece of equipment....

 

[Kharn]

Ok so here is where I am at now -_- and it's due to all the confusion between 2 certain things that I am simply going to abandon them for the 1 that I KNOW works and will target exactly what I need it to target (Ammonia, Nitrates, etc.) which is what the DSB normally would do and I really don't want to go with a substrate in the sump...

Of the 3 choices I recently made...

Marine Pure Block
FBFs
Hyrda-Pure Technology Filter

I'm going with...

1 Marine Pure Block (8"x8"x4") per sump, it does what I want and still need and it is already proven, not confusing and well just good in general, the simplicity of it is a big seller.

 

[TundraGuy]

Why not just add live rock to the sump with the cheto

 

[Kharn]

Why not just add live rock to the sump with the cheto

Well the Chaeto will grow over the live rock and smother it of light...which is what has happened in my Live Food sump originally (all the live rock turned white) now I separate it with Egg Crate but I have noticed that the Live Rock still "collects" debris that needs to be removed due to all the pockets etc its random structure is made of...

But the Marine Pure can act WITHOUT light so there is no worry about the Chaeto smothering it of light .

Marine Pure in my view is exactly like Live Rock as you say but it simply doesn't need light, you can put it into canister filters too.

 

[Kharn]

Marine Pure works in 2 different ways depending on the flow it receives or "oxygenation"...

Most keep it in the sump where there is minimal flow and they also raise in on a small sheet of egg crate so that underneath is also getting the benefits.

Originally my slightly OCD mind was like hmmm why not get 2 of the 8x8x1inch sheets per sump cause it would basically cover the entire base of the refugium compartment, but then the price is pointless, for 2 of the 1inch sheets you can buy 1 of the 4inch blocks which does 4x that of 1 sheet...so the block it is.

 

[TundraGuy]

Live rock with no light converts to a cryptic zone. Its ability to uptake ammonia nitrite are unaffected. However there are study's that show its ability to take up nitrate are increased. Most of the study's I have read site this increase in nitrate uptake relates more to the organisms that live in a crypt zone living unimpeded by the presents of photosynthetic organisms. One thing to note is that is you don't keep light on it then you tend not to look at it and allow it to get nastie, and covered with ditritus.

 

[Kharn]

Well these Refugiums are doing my head in...so for now!

I am not going to touch them (aside from still fill it with just Chaeto)

Today and this week its all about the ATO system!

Which I think to of finally nailed down in what I want that is...

My local hardware store sells wheelie bins 240L and they even have a built in connector outlet at the base with a ball valve (easy to empty if needed) the wheels also make it easy to roll out when maybe half empty and give the bin a top up .

Going with the Smart ATO Systems.

So today I am trying to find someone local with 3x Smart ATOs

 

[Kharn]

he final few pieces are either incoming or here but awaiting that which is incoming.

I got a 220L food grade tube that held olives which will act as the Top off Reservoir

The 3 ATOs are incoming and when I got the drum I also got 6 cups of Chaeto (2cups per sump), still leaning towards marine pure and will likely get the blocks tomorrow.

 

[Kharn]

Here is the 220L Food Grade drum I got today that will become the ATO reservoir

 

[TundraGuy]

now remiber when you set up the water feed to the sump that the line has to remain above the waterline in the drum. if you do not keep it high you will have a siphon and drain the drum and overflow the sump

 

[TundraGuy]

So have the ato line fill into one of the overflow boxes with a drum that high that's how I would run it. The only time this information changes is if your using a parastolic pump. Also do not have the ato fill line under water or it will siphon saltwater into the ato drum

 

[Kharn]

Yeah it's simple really just have the return lines input a good inch or 2 above the max water line you want within the sump itself...thus the pipe running from Reservoir into the sump will never meet the sumps water line marker.

The AutoAqua Smart ATOs are really clear cut and simple to setup this is written on the box (preventing the back flow issue).

So my 3 ATOs arrive tomorrow and I got confirmation that the 8 premium Rics & 7 Forest Fire Rhods will as well

EDIT: Even then if you wanted you could do what I did with my Sump Pump Return lines, just drill holes into the portion that you want under the water if you do and have holes above the water line as well, thus the air suction will break the siphon effect.

 

[TundraGuy]

Dang your really stepping things up. Keep it coming