My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)

I like the texture of the one on the right with the pink rics. These remind me of santa fe new mexico adobe buildings. They really show case the animal/corals quite well. So once your sumps are in place are you going to move all your live rock to them?
 
I'm not sure about the sumps...I would like to gut the top tank of this stand and turn it into coral as well rite now all live rock is in with this...
 
For those few of you who are interested in the fictional side of what I do...I put together this "mock" setup of the 'Mantis-Man' in his manifested/transformed form...all I used was various stomatopod parts that I photoshoped together, quickly...however when I finished it I realized it did portray basically the top half of the 'Mantis-Man'.

However I want him to be bulkier...in both body & "limbs"...



How many species made his form... ? ;)
 
So this thread is coming up on its second year anniversary are you going to show a pix of the two stands next to a current pix of the stands?
 
Confirmation has just been received that the HOB Overflows are now being made :D which should mean that the Sump Upgrades are not very far off now!...FINALLY!
 
TundraGuy said:
Finnaly god. So if you get different tanks in the future are you going to drill them?
Click to expand...

Absolutely and I want the internal overflows to take up the entire rear wall, thus providing the very best surface skimming to.

With good designing I could make both current DIY Fake Wall Burrows & Internal Rear Wall Overflow 1 thing thus maximizing on space. in front of the wall.
 
I am cutting it a bit short with these HOB overflows but I literally have no choice...

From the GROUND to the RIM/TOP of the BOTTOM TANK in STAND A & B (C Don't count here) it is only 27.5inchs...

The Outer box of the HOB Overflow is 9inchs and must sit above the water level in the sump it is connecting to.

This leaves me with 18.5inchs MAX to play with and that is if I want the tank sitting directly upon the floor so take at least either 1-3inchs for either (1inch rubber mat or 1inch rubber mat & 2inch steel stand), which leaves between 15.5-17.5inchs of actual possible sump depth.

It's going to have to run "abnormally" without a nozzle in the base of the outer box, simply because with the nozzle it adds a few inchs making it a good 12inchs/1foot tall....

This entire problem is simply because the display tanks that the sumps are being attached to are so low to the ground already (basically sump height tanks).
 
The largest sump I could make for STAND A (the sump I am most worried about)...

Is 15"x18"x24" or around 95L full...I'm just hoping there is enough room for what I want with this skimmer. (Mostly because I want a refugium in the sump *now* (didn't before) and I want the skimmer to sit in its own compartment where the water level won't drop (want the return pump compartment to be largish and take the brunt of where the water level changes in the whole system along with input point for ATO system).

STAND B sump is the same as above but 36" long and around 145L so plenty big.

and STAND C I don't have a problem with at all due to the bottom tank being a good 12" taller then the other 2 STANDS Bottom Tanks. And I want to have a big sump for this STAND something around 1m long (due to legs at rear), but 24" x 24" or a good 344L for the sump alone!
 
Got word back from Jeff @ LifeReef.

The HOB Overflows are going to be done and leaving on the 18th of Feb which means if they arrive as swift as the last one did I should see them within a week.
 
Latest Sump Design

Not sure whether it's worth putting a Refugium in the sump of STAND A due it being so small...I did the math and if I want the sump to fit neatly behind STAND A thus matching the display tanks overall length of 24"/2ft, it leaves me with only 8inchs of length per compartment, as the image describes below, which leaves me with only 23L of refugium...

The thing is rite now, STAND A is 50:50, Refugium:Coral, there are 6 display compartments in STAND A, the Top Tank (Top 2 Compartments), is a Refugium and the very Bottom Tanks Left Compartment is a refugium, so 3 of the 6 Compartments within STAND A are a refugium rite now...something that I would like to remove completely but I doubt this small 23L Refugium could do much for the +160L Display its attached to...

 
I still think the drains for for each row of the stands should be routed to the sump not the tank below it, with each row having its own return from the sump with valves to control the flow. I would also like to stress the advantage of external pumps. They have less date of failure, less heat into the system, can be routed with a down pipe to minmalize micro bubbles from low sump levels, and less work for matance. With this setup you will not need to shut down the pump to do water changes. Rather just shut down the row you are working on/feeding. Not to mention you can isolate the rows in case of contamination or macro sexual crash. Just food for thought.
 
The sump is good but reverse the five and skimmer. Remiber the skimmer will pull pods but not if they are post skimmer. Also if the skimmer sits in the first compartment you can run a filter Sox to keep things from getting into the skimmer intake. I have been trying out the biopellets and the results so when when building this compartment make sure to give yourself room for future add ins like a bp reactor or carbon reactor so on and so forth. I do agree with the return section being as large as possible to maximize the evaperation level but do set up an ato can't stress how nice it is to have a ago doing the grunt work for you.
 
Ok

If I understand you correctly, each row should drain directly into the sump, which sounds rather confusing for the return, I can't keep adding pumps to my design, it is already costly in power as is :X....I'd need you to make a diagram for me to full understand....

The reason I want the fuge first is only because I want it to be as large as it can be and this means the first compartment within the sump, the skimmer is where it is because I want it to be in a compartment where the water level will never drop, it is unlikely going to be on a stand (that's just in the pic confusing sorry) as the compartments depth will be the skimmers operation depth.
 
Also you only need the three baffle bubble traps in places where there are micro bubbles being produced . Being able to minimalize them will maximise the useible space in the sump. Forinstanse you could use one pain of glass after the skimmer into the fuge section, but the return section may need one. Or you may find running it the other way is better ie a bubble trap baffle from the skimmer section with one pain of glass from the fige to the return pump. Also you can make a spillway behind one of the baffles to put things like the white and blue filter sponge sheets and a bag of carbon to actively remove stuff from the column.
 
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Correct me if I am wrong but outside Lights Pumps are the next most expensively running piece of equipment I use (Don't have chillers or heaters).
 
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