My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)

I wasn't to concerned about the bubble traps...simply because the way the Display Tanks are connected together (so stupidly) it's impossible to avoid bubbles, water rushing down the external pipes connecting tanks cause white water, so that each compartment to the tank that water is coming into is usually lots of micro bubbles whilst the compartment where water flows out of and down to next tank has none.
 
In the end to fix it all I think the best thing I can do is get extra HOB overflows, 1 per tank, cut off the entire external pipe system, acrylic up the inside and outside of the hole to where the pipes were, then hook up 1 HOB overflow to each tank and have it drown down to the tank below and behind the DIY Fake Wall, where the HOB Overflow will also sit.
 
O and do try to make the sump removable to make changes as need be. Build and run one sump for a month before building the second sump just in case you find flaws you wish to fix in the next sump design
 
If you are using an ato you can shrink the pump section and keep the salinity more stable. There are two schools of thought on evap. I subscribe to the thought of using an active ato with a small return section finding it keeps the water peramiters in better check. The second school maximizes the return section to give more space for evap to happen before the pump runs dry.
 
TundraGuy said:
If you are using an ato you can shrink the pump section and keep the salinity more stable. There are two schools of thought on evap. I subscribe to the thought of using an active ato with a small return section finding it keeps the water peramiters in better check. The second school maximizes the return section to give more space for evap to happen before the pump runs dry.
Click to expand...

I can already state that I need to run with the second option because the ATO isn't even funded yet, only image...so it could be month(s) off which means I still need to do manual top ups which means yeah I do not want that pump running dry....a.k.a maximize evaporation area also because...STAND A has a slight leak...not enough to actually have water hit the floor, only form "cool...lol" long sickles of salt at the elbows of the tanks, but nothing has ever hit the floor so I take it for a very small nonsense problem which it has been for the past years...lol the sickles are cool, longest I "grew" before accidentally knocking it off was 14".
 
External pumps are more effective at use power then internal ones. You can find external ones that use less power and pump more water. Run a manifold off each pump to feed each row add a valve to control the flow into each compartment. Think of a single pipe running from the pump up to the top tank in the stand then add in a tee at each row. So two tees and one elbow. The elbow feeds the top row. Place a valve off the tees. Add the return after the valve into the tank.
 
I still don't know if I can get the overall system flow I desire with this kind of setup utilizing the HOB overflows to dictate the speed of and amount of water that travels between tanks (or rather giving the pump back its choice in speed, cause the HOBs can take it).

Mostly because the water WITHIN the tanks or rather water WITHIN 1 compartment traveling TO the next MUST flow OVER the divider....there are no flow holes, it's only cut 1inch lower then the rim of the tank.

So I am still not sure if there will be a point that the compartment where water enters it can have too much enter and just overflow whilst trying to allow water to fill the compartment beside it....

 
TundraGuy said:
External pumps are more effective at use power then internal ones. You can find external ones that use less power and pump more water. Run a manifold off each pump to feed each row add a valve to control the flow into each compartment. Think of a single pipe running from the pump up to the top tank in the stand then add in a tee at each row. So two tees and one elbow. The elbow feeds the top row. Place a valve off the tees. Add the return after the valve into the tank.
Click to expand...

I really need a diagram to understand what your describing :X....call me simple :fun2:
 
I think k you should consider getting way from having the tanks feed each other as shown in the diagram. You can not isolate the rows with that design and you will fight micro bubbles as you always have. have the drains run I to the sump one pump can feed each row. Trust me on this. Go down to some local fish shops and take a look at the return pumps you will see they use minimal pumps with return manifolds. Think of a sprinkler system with multiple sprinkler heads, one pipe feeds all of the spiklers.
 
I need to get ready for work now but I will post more in a couple of hours. I will get you a pix of the design. When you see it it will click for you. My words are not as good a fuzzy picture I know. Lol
 
I'm getting these HOB overflows irregardless :)

(just got a confirmation email again from Jeff).

Because at the very least...I'm going to be able to get rid of the canister filters, have sumps, skimmers, reactors etc. and be proud to be able to display the whole of each STAND.

Even then all this drama is over mostly STAND A, STAND C for example is set in stone and good to go this will be a very good and very easy thing to upgrade for the large spearers, aside getting the sump into place...have to walk it behind both A & B to just get to C...LOL and I want this to be the biggest sump xD

I F*kin swear a MONKEY designed my systems! :ape:
 
I am with you on the overflows.

Go to the fish store with a display and fish rows like yours and ask how they return the water to each tank. If the store as any good they will have each pump with a manifold feeding each tank. Once you see it I bet my bottom dollar you will want to copy if, with your own improvements.
 
TundraGuy said:
I am with you on the overflows.

Go to the fish store with a display and fish rows like yours and ask how they return the water to each tank. If the store as any good they will have each pump with a manifold feeding each tank. Once you see it I bet my bottom dollar you will want to copy if, with your own improvements.
Click to expand...

Going to my LFS today to get some putty/gum for the Fake Walls Mushies.

I'll have a gander while I'm in there.
 
Here is a picture of the skimmers I purchased (1 of 3 all the same). Beside it is a 1.5L Pepsi bottle for size comparison, they are Marine Sources SDC-900/L Internal I bought the last few on Guppies about 6months ago, they been sitting in boxes....waiting.



STAND A Sump can be around 24" Long x 18" wide x 12" tall. Which will give me more then enough operation depth for the skimmer (op. depth is 200mm/8" I think).

EDIT: I don't mind if the sump is an 1-4inchs longer (25"-28" overall) cause I can just offset one side behind the TV a bit which will hardly effect the ATO systems space to come, STAND B is already 36" planned so its long enough.
 
That protien skimmer is small.. I mean look at the size of that pepsi bottle..

OH thats the pepsi bottle on the left my bad..

Jk :lol2: that's a really good skimmer, But I do agree with tundraguy on the overflows and pump.. HOB overflow boxes can malifunction let alone having three and cause major flooding if one gets clogged. The aiptasia might avenge their brothern and clog your overflows!

I'd just let each individgual overflow go down into the sump rather than into the tank below it as well as, like tundra said, have the pump divide and blow into each system rather than the one top one. Basicly put T fittings in the pipe and line em up.
 
Tall cone narrow body. Hmm what to see them in action. Huge advantage over the fx5s your rocking now. Are they ozone compatable? Could be cheaper and more affective then UV down the road.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
How can I reinforce a kitchen cabinet to support say a 90 gal tank?
Replies
16
Views
279
Philip
P
M
How everything change and keeps changing
Replies
19
Views
418
MCReef1420
M
Itchy Trigger
Heaters for Sump and for Storage Tanks
Replies
2
Views
126
aquaman67
aquaman67
D
Can 1" Quartz Countertop support 3 inch tank overhang past stand on both sides????
Replies
8
Views
551
T Diddy
T Diddy
H
Need sanity check on Deep Sand Bed Cleaning
Replies
3
Views
216
wvned
wvned
Back
Top