My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)
- Thread starter Kharn
- Start date
Calappidae
Harlequin Shrimp
It's a really cloudy image consituring it's pretty dark under the stand... but here's mine on the 125 (my 125 is a dual overflow/return so I can split the single pump);
The return pump lays at the bottom of the sump, and pipes go up, and then split in two different directions from a T.. litterally you're making a T shape in the plumbing and then the water carries out through both sides exiting the return fittings in the DT.
The vinyl on this side goes up to the right return of my 125, while the vinyl on the other side goes up to the left return.
In your case tho you'd need three seperations, one for each over flow box.
The return pump lays at the bottom of the sump, and pipes go up, and then split in two different directions from a T.. litterally you're making a T shape in the plumbing and then the water carries out through both sides exiting the return fittings in the DT.
The vinyl on this side goes up to the right return of my 125, while the vinyl on the other side goes up to the left return.
In your case tho you'd need three seperations, one for each over flow box.
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Calappidae
Harlequin Shrimp
If I'm reading correctly its something like this:
I have terrible paint skills forgive me.
I have terrible paint skills forgive me.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Wouldn't so many bends and T's make it a bit risky I was under the impression that if I were to use this kind of setup water would be coming out of the various outputs at a rather swift or high pressure which isn't that great for a 1cubic foot tank ?
Maybe I'm wrong or seeing it wrong still.
Maybe I'm wrong or seeing it wrong still.
Calappidae
Harlequin Shrimp
Hey you know more than me with the plumbing that's for sure. Do what's the safest and risk free. I'm no expert on the plumbing myself and have had my fair share of leaks but that's just the idea I'm getting from reading recent post and from my point of view on the system.
I'm thinking if a single return was used at the top, any single overflow could either clog, or, if they live off a syphon, they can lose their syphon if one tank keeps up more than the other.. cause technically any rock or sand is going to decrease/increase the volume in each display IMO making even water flow going through a little unbalanced to some degree.. and back fire flooding.. it's more of a "What if" concern of possibilities that may happen... now if the overflows weren't HOB and built into the tank with just pipe sticking up then I'd say it'd be perfectly fine.
This is just me thinking outloud, I could be completely wrong
TundraGuy
MantisOholic
I am glad idont need to find a pix for you but just make the pipe go straight up with tees pointing at the rows. Minimize the curves. One 90° and two tees with 3 valves and returns into the tanks. Drill air break holes into the returns just below the waterline to act as syphon breaks if the power goes out.
As for flow in the rows you may need to add power heads, it if you want to minimize power get a stronger return pump and split the returns to both sides of the rows with the overflow in the middle section on the back. You can get a random back and forth flow by adding a scwd in place of the split to both sides of the row. You and me talked about that along time ago. The scwd does not use power to switch the current from the left to the white.
As for flow in the rows you may need to add power heads, it if you want to minimize power get a stronger return pump and split the returns to both sides of the rows with the overflow in the middle section on the back. You can get a random back and forth flow by adding a scwd in place of the split to both sides of the row. You and me talked about that along time ago. The scwd does not use power to switch the current from the left to the white.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
It would also be possible to do this ?
At least I know the HOBs could be position like this, they could even be placed directly above one another with 45° angles for their outputs beside the bottom one.
but is this something you mean with the Red circles being the Tee / Gate Valve ?
(Much neater yes ?)
At least I know the HOBs could be position like this, they could even be placed directly above one another with 45° angles for their outputs beside the bottom one.
but is this something you mean with the Red circles being the Tee / Gate Valve ?
(Much neater yes ?)
Calappidae
Harlequin Shrimp
That looks so much better!
I thought the hobs were built like that in those positions.. now things are alot less complicated
I thought the hobs were built like that in those positions.. now things are alot less complicated
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Oh I was on crack or something :wildone: when I made my choices....I was obsessed if you remember with getting that nice black poly pipe stuff ? Which Screws into Poly Pipe fittings/elbows...worst choice ever....not only was I never going to find a riser (what they call a straight piece of poly pipe with threading on both ends) that would meet EXACTLY the distance between 2 tanks...but the diameter of it is ext. not int. so even though it says its 32mm its actually about 20mm int. and very thick (6mm).
Stupid idea period but for some reason I wanted the pipework (which was a stupid idea to begin with) be black and match the rest of the frame and hoods...
Should of just put it all on with NORMAL PVC cut to fit with normal glue etc. then spray painted if I were that desperate again...
But I learned a lot
This new idea that you mentioned about isolating each tank is a really good one, something I hope will work cause I see more flow benefits then anything else
...If I can get my finger down on something A.S.A.P that I am comfortable with I will give Jeff a call and put another 5 HOBs on my order.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
That looks so much better!
I thought the hobs were built like that in those positions.. now things are alot less complicated
HOBs are not fixed in place things.
Most people don't like them, I heed the warnings and did lots of research before I finally was brave enough to try 1....and it's the only 1 I have ever used
or needed!So I wouldn't mind have 100 LifeReef HOBs running at once in my room.
EDIT: He makes a silencer for them to which effectively silences all noise
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Well that didn't take long I mean....I did plan it in the end a while ago anyway or the only thing that I could foresee to ultimately FIX my major overall flaw of system flow is to put a HOB on every tank...thus replacing the current stupid pipe work system.
So I made the call just then and am hopefully able to add to my order...I got 8 display tanks (14 individual compartments) so I need 8 HOB overflows ...hopefully its not to much of a punch to the wallet xD...
So I made the call just then and am hopefully able to add to my order
...I got 8 display tanks (14 individual compartments) so I need 8 HOB overflows ...hopefully its not to much of a punch to the wallet xD...
TundraGuy
MantisOholic
The diagram you made is exactly what I was saying (in #1730). Now let's talk about pumps what are you looking at using and what is the flow rating on the overflow boxes? I know pumps and power ratings. You need to get a good make (for reliability) something with enough gph to meet your needs and something that does not use to much power.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
I already have the pumps :X hopefully they work...
Overflow is and this is a quote off the website...."Flow rate up to 400 gph (and anything in-between 0 and 400 gph) In other words it will flow whatever gph you give it up to its maximum rate."
I have 3 Eheim Compact+ 3000 rated for 1500-3000l/h as the box says...
Overflow is and this is a quote off the website...."Flow rate up to 400 gph (and anything in-between 0 and 400 gph) In other words it will flow whatever gph you give it up to its maximum rate."
I have 3 Eheim Compact+ 3000 rated for 1500-3000l/h as the box says...
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