My wood tank build

Here is my air control adjustment for the Durso that I mentioned earlier.

Sand down a plug to bottom out and turn in the top of the standpipe. Belt sander works well.

durso plug.jpg


Insert the plug and drill a couple of holes (more depending on size). I use 2, 3/8" holes through the standpipe and plug.

2 holes.jpg


Then just turn the plug to open the holes or close them down as needed.

durso closed.jpg


durso open.jpg
 
No "better" flow since the pump controls that. However, this doubles the places for water to go so if 1 gets plugged, I still have 3 more open. I did it just for safety. I did modify the design again. Instead of gluing the mesh directly to the opening, I glued it to a short piece of pipe so I can remove it to clean the screen without taking the entire durso out.
 
nice idea on the durso's if you have the room to get them in there...i would be a little concerned with the mesh you used collecting aglea and being restricted...and if it is algea getting into them you can bet they would all plug up at the same rate...but with a tank like this i am sure the maintenace schedule will be rather stringent..

anymore tank pics, udates?
 
Hey Del, I just went through your thread and it is looking very nice.

Keep up the great work! Hope to see you at the Spring Fling!?!?

Brandon
 
leetdood,
I like to mount the bulkhead, then apply a bead of silicone around the gasket (if you can get to it), basically sealing the BH body to the glass. This would prevent decomposition of the rubber, though I have installed hundreds of bulkheads and have NEVER seen this. I really try to use Sch 80 BHs wherever possible.

Never put silicone on the gasket before tightening the BH. This acts like a lubricant and the gasket squeezes out the side before you can get it tight enough. I argue with people about BHs all the time :D
 
I would like to take credit for a great idea but alas, I suspect it belongs to H2OENG. How do you feel about sealing the void between the bulKhead threads and the hole in the tank?

Brandon-I will most likely miss the fling since travel is hectic now and students seem to need lots of advising and thesis editing. Hope to have you and others over soon.

NanoReef-I will have a third overflow (thanks Doug) as a safety device in the event of 4 Durso inlet failures. This standpipe will have a water alarm to let us know the Dursos have plugged.

Keep em coming folks...I am always open for suggestions. I may be slow, but I'm old too.

Del
 
How do you feel about sealing the void between the bulKhead threads and the hole in the tank?

It would add a layer of grip to the BH, but the problem is getting it in there without getting it on the gasket. Unless you put the BH in without the nut, kept pressure on it while you filled the hole, then let it cure. Come back after it cures and tighten the nut. A big hassle IMO. Just silicone it afterward if you want.

If you need to self center the BH in the hole, wrap some electrical tape, teflon tape, (or narrow masking tape if your tank wall is thin) around the threads of the BH til it fits snug (not tight). The tape should not interfere with the nut or gasket so do account for the slight gasket compression.
HTH,
Chris
 
Bebo-
All I can tell you is that my last tank was a 270g acrylic and cost me $2200. This tank is 540g and will not top $2000. I'm guessing I saved at least 2k. You must know that the tank is the cheapest part of the journey. However, I'll gladly take the 2k and invest it elsewhere (on the tank of course)

Chris-
I already figured out the centering ability of 1/4" tape. Thanks for the tip on sealing the bulkhead gasket after install.

I just received 18 tubes of GE silicone and the glass should be here in a week or so. I went with 2 pieces of 3/8" laminated to make 3/4". Yes, it's Starphire.

My C. jordani harem is getting durn sick of being in a 20g q tank. But, they are getting nice and fat.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9628157#post9628157 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsandfort
I did modify the design again. Instead of gluing the mesh directly to the opening, I glued it to a short piece of pipe so I can remove it to clean the screen without taking the entire durso out.

That is what I did with the gutter guard. I glued it to a fitting that would fit snug into the durso... I like your idea about the "twist plug"...

Gutter%20Guard%20with%20fittings.JPG
 
Jeeze...this traveling is not so conducive to tank building. However, I got to tour a wonderful distillery in Kentucky, the oldest in the US. Very fun.

Took delivery on the glass today. It's in the tank but not sealed. It does not look like $790. I'll get some photos when we seal it in place. Oh yeah, the epoxy paint arrived while I was "out".

Still working with a welder on the stand. It will be modular so I can take it apart and move it by myself.

Del
 
Actually, Makers Mark is kind of a pup in the business. It's commercial roots start at 1840.

There has been a working distillery at the Buffalo Trace site since 1787. However, they "modernized" in 1857. They were the first to use steam for distillation and the first to offer a single barrel bourbon, Blanton's. Good marketing move there.

I've been to both as well as Labrot&Graham (Woodford Reserve) and others.

All sit on my shelves. I'm a collector and enjoy them all. I really have no favorite, they are all so different and similar at the same time. I tend to favor the Rye recipes but wheated bourbon has some nice qualities. Try some Eagle Rare...pretty nice bourbon for the money.

Shoot...I sound like a windbag.

Anyhow, the tank will be in a wall next to the bar so I can sip and stare without much effort.
 
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